Thanks for the best video on this project! Vacuuming the lines and blowing into the gas tank was perfect .. I’m not capable of dropping the gas tank. Lots of pellets came out when vacuuming! I’ve subscribed!
Old video, I have the exact issue on my 10 Yukon I picked up- when you pressurize the tank- does that work for all models or just the body style you have? I’d hate to drop the tank and clear the lines
Thank you for the in-depth video on replacing it. I got my new one in the mail for 130, certainly a lot better than auto stores wanting to charge 300+ for one
Can u stop saying the years when it’s totally different for the 3.5 altimas. Yours is the cheap four cylinder and ur shit keeps coming up when I’m looking for 3.5 and it’s not the same Jesus!
The easiest way to remove a back door with one person is to open it , disconnect the door catch and wire harness, shut the door , open the front door so you can undo the bolts on the back door while it's CLOSED , after that everything should be undone so you can grab the door from one side and open the door while holding the handle and it won't fall If you're removing a front door I would suggest using a floor jack with a rag on it so you don't take any paint off the bottom of the door, undo the door catch, wire harness, the bottom 2 bolts and the very top bolt leaving the 2nd bolt from the top last , while you're undoing the very last bolt put a hand on the top of the door so it doesn't fall off If you're in a junkyard that doesn't allow jacks , take the fender off and undo everything like I said to do for the back door
When installing the bolts to the torque converter I noticed you had to rotate the flex plate which rotates the crankshaft. Will this mess with the engines timing? If so, what should be done before starting the vehicle? Thanks for a great video!
Nice video. Would you do anything differently if you did it again? I have a 05 4x4 Yukon 5.3L. 233,000 miles. Looking to get a used cheap broken 4L60/65/70 to rebuild with my teen as a DIY learning project. To have ready. I found a used one for $60, with nothing but Reverse working. Thanks!
I put in a new ignition cylinders in my 2007 silverado try to start it 4 time left on for ten minutes each time but still want start so what's going on
@@dudewecanfixit Off topic, What do you know about engine flushing? I just bought a 167K miles 2003 5.3 Z71. looking in the oil filler it's got a black film. Not quite sludge but could be cleaner. The Oil looks clean. Probably just changed, maybe. I was substituting a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF and just let gradually clean. Any thoughts or recommendations? Also when I do the rear main seal I plant to do the pan gasket and pickup o ring. Also clean the pan and tube. I have good 38 psi at idle.
Did it actually take you 30min to remove? I think I need to do this to my 2003 6.0 but not sure it has 300k miles. Do you have to get the heads resurfaced? I don’t have that kinda money and really need this truck to get back to the oil filed. What gasket kit did you buy ?
It took a few hours to get it off. I got felpro gaskets from O'Reilly's. I definitely recommend getting the heads resurfaced. It sure would suck to put it back together and still have the same problem.
@@dudewecanfixit apparently, my 2006 4L60E has several differences than the one you guys rebuilt. One of which is the issue I just asked about. The older models have two springs the new mode like mine has one. Another big difference is the pump o-ring. Mine has been changed and the o-ring is no longer in a groove in the pump, the groove has been done away with and they moved the o-ring to the case. They machined an area out on the case and the seal goes in there.
Great video. I can only put in like $8 before gas spills out. The gas station pump nozzle not clicking. But I don't know why my gas tank is refusing to accept more fuel? I've checked all hoses and charcoal canister. Everything is intact. My gas gauge is always showing full. Can a bad gas pump and sending unit be the culprit?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
I doubt that the pump & sending unit would have any effect on filling with gas. That falls more into airflow restriction in the tubing. Try vacuuming and blowing all the lines out.
@@dudewecanfixit oil galley plug I'm not being a Smart ass I'm actually doing a rear main on my express van next week are you supposed to change the oil galley plug at All?
Thank you, well explained, mines it was messing with the gas too it made the rpm’s drop, thought it was the throttle body but it wasn’t it was the canister, thanks again
they aren't selling the flywheel bolts with the socket heads on Amazon, so thanks for showing us the install with the 15mm wrench because that's my only option. Man, I wish I had a best friend working with me.
@@dudewecanfixit I am at the junk yard now with a mechanically inclined guy, says the part I need could be $35 here or $85 at autozone, will only cost me a couple hundred after labor. Yay here's to hoping that's all it is
Great video, just one thing I didn't see, which may not seem to be a major thing. But, you didn't explain the removal or replacement of the serpentine belt, believe it or not, most people don't know how to remove the Belt or replace it!! Apart from that, nice explanation and showing of everything else!!! 👌😀
Great stuff 🙂 I'm using the same #3 method, with a difference... I bought a Marine Floor Access Panel and will install that prior to removing the Fuel Pump in my 2005 Chevy Blazer. Simply cutting a hole in the floor does not close it up when complete. My Floor Panel will allow me to close the hole after changing the pump... Still a great video. Thanks 🙂
Thanks alot for this video, you saved me $180 from the stealer, I mean dealer. Parts were $65 for the handle and $25 for the cap. They told me the entire inside of the door would have to be removed. Took me 15 minutes, thanks again!
This video was excellent! I rebuilt my 5.3 and was trying to decide whether to buy a trans or get mine rebuilt because its missing 3rd and 4th gears. After doing a lot of research and watching vids, Im going to rebuild it myself and use this video as a step by step for my teardown. Thanks again for a great video.,
I wish more of these big name shops who make a RU-vid living off disassembly would make a single assembly video. I hate when people gate keep info from DIY guys. We’re DIY so you’re not ganna lose our business anyways 🤣
looking at replacing the rear main seal and plate/gasket on my dad's 02 Z71 and this makes me feel a little better. I've been turning wrenches for over 30 years but sometimes its nice to have a step by step on these things. my dread is the fact that I have a transfer case to deal with as well since its a 4wd
Bro, seasoned mechanic here….as in 40 plus years! (So what, right?) I have to pull my tranny out for the 3rd time because of an oil leak off of the driver’s side. I torqued all the bolts, did my due diligence, and yet….2 weeks later I have a leak off the same side. I replaced barbell oil diverter because the old one was leaking, at that time, installed new rear main, and rear main plate gasket. Still? Leaks! Today I came out to my truck and underneath looked like a crime scene!!😂😂😂 Maybe I have a cracked rear main plate? Your advice is warranted, please.
Wow, that is wild! Are you able to determine where the oil is coming from? If its high up, dripping down the transmission, It could be the oil pressure sensor in the back of the valley,
Pro tip i don"t pour all 12 quarts in , even if everythingbis empty , i pour 2 or 3 in the torque convertor then slode it all together , add 3 or 4 more , start it for 3 minutes or less , add 4 more , then check it to see how many more it wants , pouring all 12 at one time will have it running out the overfill every time .😂
