Firstly, that’s not Forklift. It’s a Telehandler. I suppose it’s technically a Forklift with the fork attachments on it, but its actual nomenclature is forklift. They handle material in all sorts of ways. I find it odd that Telehandlers get called forklifts so often, but Front End Loaders, Skidsteers and Tractors don’t get called forklifts. Secondly, that’s not even close to the largest forklift. Neither in size or capacity. The forklifts they use as ports will put that to shame and they’re TRUE Forklifts.
Specifically for plums and pluots: Besides that open center has the advantage of light and most widely practiced in commercial orchards what use cases demand using modified central leader.
That is a telehandler - and there are much bigger forklifts around. Some of the container ones will lift 125,000lbs or 55 tons. Almost double what that will lift. Still a nice bit of kit but why boast it is the biggest?
Hi im now in mid summer, leaves didn't fall off yet, but the apricots trees are infected badly all leaves have holes do I spray every 10 days starting now on leaves? Will that control the condition? Thank you
Not the biggest fork lift I promise you. I have seen a fork lift that looks like a regular yellow drive around warehouse type and one of its tires are twice as big as this whole lift, they use it to move giant modular sections for building new construction oil platforms.
Was fortunate enough to have an opportunity to visit the good doctor where he showed me his plant collections and learned a thing or two about them. The cempedak and macacamia nut trees i bought from him are so tall now and the former had just started to fruit. He will always be remembered.
@@MrChuntaro Wine grapes or dessert grapes? The biggest problem for wine grape growing in the Mojave Desert, if you select a good variety of grape, is uneven ripening of the berries in the bunches when it is hot during the summer months. If you select a variety or varieties that are heat tolerant and ripen during the cooler fall months you will have better luck. The best luck I have had in the Mojave Desert has been improving the soil at the time of planting and covering the soil surrounding them with about four inches of wood chips.
I would sanitize once at the beginning of each pruning day. However, if a tree looks like it might be infected with something then sanitize again after finishing the tree. If it looks like something highly contagious, like fireblight, then sanitize after every cut.
Interesting. Can I ask if this might also be caused by potassium deficiency? On some of my smaller lemon starts that I have in three inch pots and growing indoors have this issue. I have my reasons to think it was caused by a potassium issue. Potassium usually creates leaf margin necrosis so essentially it might react the same way a leaf would to wind damage?
Nice thinking! Yes, its possible. There could be lots of different reasons for leaf cupping. You are right. Anything that causes the leaf edges to die when they are unfolding can cause cupping. This includes salt damage, nutrient deficiencies, wind damage, heat damage, etc. Usually we don't see calcium deficiency in young trees but can see it is older trees apple and pear trees (corky spot and bitter pit) even in so called calcium rich soils as we have in much of the Western US. If this happens each year it might be interesting to spray the leaves of the tree with calcium rich sprays (calcium chloride solutions) several times during the growing season beginning when the leaves start unfolding and ending after the leaves have fully expanded.
@@robertmorris5346 Wait a minute! You're Bob Morris! I believe we met years ago at Viragrow! I just stumbled across this video looking for answers and never put two and two together. Boy would I like to pick your brain for an hour! Have a half acre urban farm here in Vegas and I'm finally starting to get this all figured out but it's been a challenge. Followed!!
@@hasenafarms6448 Thanks for meeting with me. I am at Viragrow every Monday morning to answer questions. Come on in and lets talk. I am there by 730 am and leave about noon.
Not quite sure about sunburn issue of persimmon fruits...I have two trees, one astringent, another giant Fuyu, which I never prune for sunburn protection, and I live in the SC where summer is very hot and humid, with a lot of sunshine. Sun burn is basically not an issue at all to me, unlike my pomergranate fruits, which do show the damage by the sun with cracked, dark skin...
Ok, this is an apple tree question. How long can you leave the apples on the tree in the fall for the late producers? Like I think it's Fugi, the later one. Says it's ready in late October. Stark, whom I got it from, says it's ok for our area, central IN. No apples yet but maybe next yr. Well we get frost the first week or so in October. Are frost ok on apples still on the tree?
Once the fruit is ready you have about three weeks before it must be harvested to ba at peak maturity.. After that you run the risk of the fruit losing water and getting mealy. Apples dont ripen much off of the tree. So once you pick them, that is pretty much what you get. Another method is to use a refractometer ($30 to $75) to measure the sugar content. Anything above about 14 on a reractometer and it is good. Of course the higher the number the better but you can also just taste them. Look at the seed color. If the seed color is dark brown they are ready to pick. The more northern you are, the later you can pick them by about a couple of weeks. Not much longer than that. It iwill be either an early, mid or late apple. If it freezes it just depends on how cold it got. If they are ready to harvest the sugar content will help keep them from getting ruined by 5 degrees F or so. They don't sweeten off of the tree unlike a stone fruit. But if the weather predicts a hard freeze you better pick.
@@robertmorris5346 thanks for your great info and help on my questions! Now if I can get these to make it maybe I'll get some good fruit from them. I've had to replay but these latest trees are looking good.
As we getting close to fall or feeling like its already fall, is it natural that the leaves turn yellow for pear tree? It's my first time planting and don't know nothing about? Thanks
Its never normal for any plant except plants bred for yellow leaves, to have yellow leaves. Pull the mulch away from the trunk or main stem 6 to 12 inches. Next, check the planting depth of the tree. Make sure it is planted no more than 1/2 inch deep in the soil. If it is deeper than this, replant it the right depth in about one month (mid to late October). Finally, add your favorite iron chelate to the soil around the tree in late January next year. I use EDDHA iron chelate.
I dont know what it is capable of doing. I am a horticulturist who oversaw the planting and design of the Orchard at Ahern. If you are interested, I can put you in touch with someone on the technical end. That mulberry was in the way of the orchard expansion so it had to go.
Remove fruit as early as possible and when they are about the size of your thumbnail. Leave one fruit for each one foot distance along branch. Remove branches with a hand shears any time as long as they are sharp and santized. Do not remove so much that the canopy is open to allow sunburn on the branches and trunk. Major limb removal with a loppers or saw is only done after leaf drop.
I am dealing with this now on a container dwarf Necta-Zee tree. Is there anything I can do to treat now (hot summer in Southern California) or do I just need to wait until fall leaf drop? I have Bonide Copper fungicide and plan to use that.
I understand the most effective way to get this under control is to spray immediately after leaf drop and protect the new growth from getting infected. However, I do think those copper sprays might keep new growth from getting infected. The problem is you would have to do it all the time and it is the wrong time of year now. New growth is mostly in the spring and summer months. Try the UC IPM website for up to date recommendations.
You just want to keep it from the fruit. So protect the fruit. If you get leaf drop because the leaves are infected it will put on new leaves and hopefully the stress that caused it will be gone.
Hi Robert, I discovered borers in a 5 year old Black Oxford Apple on Antonovka rootstock. I cleared out the rotted wood and killed the borer with Permethrin. About 40% of the main trunk is compromised, but the tree is leafing out and looks okay. Is the tree salvageable? What can I do to encourage healing? Thanks for any advice you have.
I dont know that variety or rootstock. I am not sure which borer you have. They vary with the part of the country you live in. Contact your local Extension office and see if they can help. If you have cleaned out the borer larvae then just a judicious application of water and fertilizer will speed up healing. Shading the trunk and limbs with growth is usually important to keep borers from reinfesting the tree in future years.
Contact me at Extremehort@aol.com and I can help you get started. Remember that it takes about 6 to 8 years for them to start producing fruit. In the Las Vegas area there are hundreds if not thousands of dates planted and producing all over Las Vegas. My guess is that there is so much date pollen in the air that a male palm is probably not necessary if dates are nearby.
I just want to say, thank you for your videos! I have learned so much from you. I have been totally lost over the past years and thought it had to be better than what I was doing. Thank you!!!
Should all fruit trees like peach, pears, plums, etc, be pruned like apple trees? Thanks for your great help. Central IN. Ok, I see where you are talking about some pruning in some of the past videos of other fruit trees. Thanks
Apple trees are usually pruned as a modified central leader like some plums and pluots. But apples are pruned more like pear trees. Peach is pruned to an open center. You prune a fruit tree to alter its normal growth. If it sprawls, you prune it to an open center. If it grows more like a Christmas tree you prune it to a modified central leader.
