So when you do the very first coat after taping has dried, you use a 8 inch knife an feather with the 8 an wipe it down with a 12 inch knife? I seen u say that I’m your introduction to drywall video. I’ve always been using a 10 inch but I always think a 10 is a pretty big knife to first coat with an that a 8 inch would be perfect
Yes, I was taught to float recessed seems with a 10 inch knife and then we got to where we were faster putting on with an eight and wiping off with a 12 very slight feather edge on the 8 inches of mud, nice and thick and then a nice tight 12 which essentially leaves 10 inches of mud. Hope this helps.
Hello Scott's Sheetrock and thanks heaps for sharing your no-sanding method. Sanding plaster turned my place into a war zone or maybe the surface of the Moon or Mars with all that fine dust. It was a disaster. The "talc" gets into everything. Right from the beginning of the video, is the amount of water kind of an instinctive choice? What happens if no drywall mud is added to the plaster? With no additives like drywall, does plaster of Paris set too quickly and become unusable or unstable? By adding water to make the plaster of Paris stay spreadable a bit longer, is the final product compromised because this seems to be what happened in my case. My slurry or plaster was starting to set before I had spread it all on the wall. I added water to extend the time I had to spread the plaster on the wall and fill in some redundant pilot holes (no longer anchoring masonry screws). The plaster cured into a crumbly mess not unlike talc. I was unable to drill new pilot holes if they came in contact with my plaster disaster. Masonry screws had nothing of any structural integrity to bite into. Does adding water to plaster of paris impact it's integrity upon curing? Thanks again. :)
So any variation of hot mud will give you the same result with more time I use plaster of Paris to get in and get out quickly for repairs as that’s what I do for a living. The thinner you mix it the more time you’ll have however, I would suggest using 20 or 45 minute you can do the same process and get more time to it. once it sets up adding water does not affect the amount of time that you have to deal with it. Hope this helps. If you use 20 minute do not put mud in it just mix it straight and you’ll generally get 10 to 15 minutes tops. If you put mud in it’ll set up as fast as plaster 45 minute for small amounts works really well, but mix about a half a pan of 45+ a couple scoops of mud and that’ll give you roughly 20 minutes to deal with it.
I've seen few videos on RU-vid who can match your creativity. I'd go so far as to say there are few in the trade who would bother to do the level of skill you do.
Hey Scott thanks for this great video on shooting orange peel, I went ahead and followed your instructions sprayed it on ceilings and walls of a basement and now I’m having an issue with paint coverage I saturated the ceiling with PVA primer followed up with Glidden ceiling paint which goes on pink and dries white and I have tiger stripes all over the ceiling which really looks horrible any suggestions on what I could do to fix this or possibly what I could’ve done better prior to painting?
@@mibooth1852 if you’ve already primed it, I wouldn’t use that paint . I would get some Sherwin-Williams 200 flat. Assuming it’s a flat paint, roll two coats after cut in and roll opposite directions each time. Hope this helps.
If you’re painting a flat wall, two coats of flat will suffice inside. If you’re doing an eggshell or a satin, you have to prime with a latex prior or it won’t cover.
Well, it looks great, but what about when it’s time to paint? Wouldn’t you see the outline of that repaired area on the finished painted surface because the texture is different than the rest of the wall?? I’m asking because THATS what happened to me when I painted a client’s house a few years ago
Well, we try to do and are very successful at is get the texture correct with the sponged edge the texture covers and if you match the texture when you paint it, it looks great
I've noticed that straight bleach will eat away the fibers, sort of mimicking an old worn brush (my existing ceiling doesn't have fingers, and the pattern is circular, needing a circular stomp brush). I'm going to try putting a circular stomp brush on straight bleach on a table and put a brick or block on it to lay it flat to try to make it like well worn and see what happens.
I TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR VIDEO AND YOUR EXPERIENCE IN THIS FIELD!! I WILL TELL EVERYONE THAT HE'S A FREAKING AWESOME AND HE KNOWS WHAT THE FUCK HE'S TAKING ABOUT!!! I JUST COMPLETED A WHOLE APARTMENT USING HIS KNOWLEDGE!! THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TIME AND EXPERIENCE!!!!
@@seamuslockhart9394 absolutely if you use some 45 five minute 20 minute whatever I’ve probably fixed 1000 repairs in my time of mesh tape what mud they use don’t know…
Notice that he is using a bright light shining at an angle on his repair. This is major important. With the light, you are able to see every detail of the repair. Great video, I'm impressed.
I'll try this technique on my own poor DIY patch now that you taught me what to do. But I'm afraid I'll still have to do the whole wall in the end because that run is coveted by harsh downward spot lights which highlight any thickness difference so I fear I'll still have visible bulging, only much neater than I do now 😂
Hello, I have a question - is there a limit how thick you can float the indentation? I have an old wall which may have up to 1/4-1/2" waves and I was wondering if plaster based mud would be okay for floating? I guess I have nothing to lose if I try.
Hot mud has plaster in it so if you have a large area, I would suggest to mix a bucket as opposed to pans, but yes, you can float as much as a half inch on anything. You should probably prime if it’s an eggshell paint prior to floating as the eggshell has a reaction with the mud takes longer to dry and doesn’t stick as well. If it’s a flat paint, you can float right over it. Hope this helps.
Actually, not sure about the brand generally speaking, you can buy them at least in the south, Home Depot, Lowe’s, sometimes Sherwin-Williams or any drywall supply place. It’s just a regular stomp brush.
So I'm fixing all the seam tape in a garage and am trying to match the wall texture. I put all the vertical tape back up and now trying to figure out how to match the texture. Do you recommend I try using a 1/2 or 3/4 nap? What product do you use for the mud? Can you use premade and just water it down? Appreciate your feedback!
@@seansandydrvenkar7177 yes you just thin regular mud down based on the thickness of the mud you can make heavier or lighter texture with the roller. I would use a half inch nap unless it’s really heavy. You may could try a three-quarter. Hope this helps.
