This channel is dedicated to the tinkering and machine related exploits of an aircraft mechanic named Ross.
On this channel you will see anything from car repairs, rebuilding of vintage stationary engines to attempting repairs of electronics, sometimes with mixed results. I will also get chatting to various other like-minded enthusiasts and throw in the occasional show report.
If you're the type of person who likes to get your hands dirty, skin your knuckles and breathe new life into old machines and electronics, then join me on my tinkering adventures!
And please don't forget to like and subscribe, and throw up a comment or two, and I'll do my best to reply to you.
Congrats and good timing, I've got to get a friends MX5 ready for an NCT in about a month. It's been lying up years too but doesn't start. Nice to get a preview of what's ahead.
Hey Ross. Another great video. I'd also love an MX5 or maybe 2. One to drive one for the engine for my B. I've tried the Lanoguard and it's quite good. Means my B can be more of a daily driver than most.
Also little known fact that this vehicle was originally designed by a small company in Worthing (UK) and offered to the then MG company. They declined as they had the MGF in development hence they offered in around and Mazda took the project...
Ah thanks yes this is my next project once the MGB GT is finished. My car restorer pal turns these into a lotus look a like, they're amazing well done...
Saludos desde españa gran video, yo quiero hacer lo mismo en mi mk2 GTI 16V y estaba pensando en cambiar el radiador de calefacción pensando que ese seria mi problema, pero el caso es que mi radidor no pierde anticongelante ni nada y ya empizo a pensar que es de la dichosa espuma esa marron que me empezo a tirar por los aireadores, alomejor poniendo cinta como tu has echo en las trampillas metalicas me vuelve a tirar calor tu que crees? Y asi me ahorro el tener que desmontar mas cosas para sacar el radiador
Great video. I have the exact same car and colour. Auto. Do you know the exact take off from the vacuum advance solenoid locatted at the fire wall?. I cant find a vaccum hose drawing for this little unit. Vaccum line goes from dzzy to the solenoid then back to the black plastic line. What does the third nipple on the solenoid do? If i cap it off the engine revs drop to stall. Keep the videos going. I used your sunroof one, auto box and this one thus far.
They say a leisure battery is discharged below 12 volts and when fully charged shows 12.5 volts. Ive decided leisure batteries arent much good for off grid use and need an electric hook up or an inverter generator. Battery technologies need to advance for off grid use without saying the warranty isnt valid if the condition of the battery reads 11.9 volts
Fair play, it looks tidier than it did and that was what you were aiming for. Noone in their right mind is going to shell out for a professional respray on a car like that, but you gave it a new lease of life for a few bob, I call that a result!
You don't have to use much grease. There's already fluid in the caliper. You're just increasing the pressure. It works better than air if you have a well stuck piston.
@Endfloat I'm sure grease is more valuable than brake fluid. I understand you want to be safe and all, but costs mount up, plus use a rag to stop the pistons from flying
Hvis stemplet sidder så løst at det rent faktisk kan trykkes ud med en fedtsprøjte så er det klart nemmest bare at trykke det ud med bremsepedal inden kaliberen fjernes fra bilen
I swear I have to do this to my 77 roadster, there are so many wires that I can't figure out what they are doing. Unfortunately I have zero patience and am not methodical. So it won't be me doing it. so many things get added to these cars and then get taken away and owners seem to never remove the adhoc wiring they set up.
A little hose that goes from rad to water pump has gone in my gti yesterday on my way back from a car show I managed to get the car home thank god with some water top up I order the part now and I will do the job like in this very helpful video Thank you man
I was going to do the Gumball rally in 2000, cost then was £3k to enter. Now it’s over £50k to enter. These style rallies are just for the mega rich sadly.
Hello "Endfloat" I saw that in your channel have some problems. For these problems your channel is not much growing. Not getting much engagement. If you can solve these problems, Your channel will get more engagement. If you can give me permission I can tell to you about these problems. Can I tell here or email? Okay?
It's not your fault. it's the bloody built in obsolescence in all vehicles. I had a very good Ford focus 1.8 td Ghia. you'd be driving along and it would just STOP anywhere. I had to leave it 10..15 minutes on the side of the road and it would start fine and drive. It might drive for five minutes or five days and then fail again. it would do it anywhere. Bloody dangerous. No one could find the fault and eventually it went in the srrap. crazy. such a shame. the manufacturers shouldn't be able to sell cars like this.
Putting the windscreen back is witchcraft. Professionals like Autoglass find it near impossible so the paint sprayers may refuse to do it (if they are wise). Getting the ali trims in is a day's work.
Nearside wing removal isn't too bad if you remove the glovebox. Offside removal is aided if you loosen the wiper motor and remove the fuel gauge. The seam bolts on the bulkhead are still buggers especially if siezed.
The bottom fulcrum pin just came out! That never happens. They are rusted solid on the distance sleeve after a week normally. I have always had to grind off the nut and bolt head to get the lower arms off. You had just done the uprights or you grease the assembly religiously and never drive in the wet!
E10 fuel finished off the floats in my HIF carbs pretty much straight away. It seemed to distort the plastic or make them swell up and catch on the inside of the float bowls. They just kept flooding and sending fuel out of the overflow tubes. Took me ages to figure out what was going on as the needle valves were working fine. Everything seemed Ok when you opened up the float bowls. Yet when I put them back together they kept overflowing. Eventually figured out it was the floats not working properly. Fitted new ones and new fuel hose throughout and all OK again. Try to use E5 as much as possible now.
I had an issue with my MG a couple of years ago with a battery drain overnight. I wanted to determine how large the drain was so I disconnected the negative cable from the battery and switched my multimeter to AMPS DC. I then put my probes to the battery cable and the battery post seeing a reading of 3.4 amps. I figured at that time the only two things that could handle that current without smoking were the alternator and starter. I checked the alternator first as it was easy to get to. The brown wire on the back was disconnected and I saw the amps were down to a couple of milliamps. So I had a bad diode in the alternator. Due to the fact we were just coming out of covid I had a devil of a time finding a part. Eventually I found a brand new alternator and since then a diode pack to fix the old one. I did convert the alternator to a GM alternator a number of years ago as they are easier to find at auto parts stores than the Lucas.
I purchased the new carb balancing gauge but I ran into an unforeseen problem. My B is left hand drive (USA) and the gauge will not fit onto the carb due to the master brake cylinder. I also have the older style with the glass tube and red ball so that is my fall back. The numerical gauge would have been just ideal. My B is a 1977 and has been converted to HS-4 carburetors and I have been very happy with the performance after switching from the single Zenith Stromberg. I love your videos so keep up the good work.
@@Endfloat i was thinking thru the end of the filter intake pipes but it doesnt look like theres space enough to do that. Just to make sure its still balanced with the filters on. If they took air from a single filter than it wouldnt matter as much. Yea might be too much to do unless its a performance car in a race. It does sound real smooth after your treatment.