Nice and detailed video. It's a tedious process without the walnut blaster, but the results are quite similar. By curiosity, have you ever tried to use gasoline as carbon cleaning/removal ?
Thank you! I haven't tried gasoline, but I think it will work. It is likely not as effective as acetone or xylene, though. I really like xylene - it smells not that bad as acetone and is very effective, especially if you soak in it for several hours.
As additional information for the viewers, it's always a good practice(not a must) to presoak the new oil filter with new oil, this will help up build oil pressure faster. On this particular model, do this after you have clipped into place the filter in the plastic cap, otherwise it will be harder to install and you might end up damaging the filter when you try to press it in.
I would love to know how to adjust the handbrake from the caliper end as the handbrake lever end is set to maximum adjustment? The handbrake at the moment only just barely holds.
There is no adjustment mechanism in this caliper. And I think most of such calipers don't have a way to adjust it from the caliper end. The handle (lever) on the caliper rotates for 20-40 degrees for max engagement, and it moves the brake pads for just several millimeters. I haven't measured those distances, but you can see them in the video. So, the only way is to tighten the cable, as you did. In your case it seems to me that either handbrake cables are stretched out, or the guide pins are stuck, or the caliper piston doesn't move easily (rust), or (the worst case) the handbrake mechanism requires maintenance. I would visually inspect the caliper and try to move the handbrake handle on it to evaluate how it feels / moves. You should be able to move it for several degrees, and you should see how the piston goes out for several mm. And it should be relatively easy to do. Be careful, and don't pull out the piston completely :)
Cool! I'm waiting for a video on how to remove the second and third row of silentblocks. The first shot (from the front) is straight. Third the row (rear, replacement febest mzab-135) looks difficult.
I'm in the middle of another Mazda 6 job now - clutch, flywheel, front suspension, etc. There will be videos. Among the other things, I pulled the subframe again and replaced again only front row bushings. I checked the second and third row, and they were okay, not perfect, but would work for another 30-50k for sure. The reason why I decided not to replace them was because I already replaced the front row before. It was Febest, and after 30k km, both bushings were very bad. The third row is hard indeed. There are kinda covers on top of the bushings, and they are welded there (seems like), or clamped. The middle ones looked similar to the front row. Seems Febest is the only after market, but quality is very average (bad). I would recommend to replace only in case if the original ones are really bad.
I have been driving since then, and I overheated them a bit when it was hot outside. Now I have small vibration when I brake after 80km/h. The vibration increases as the rotors heat up. So I believe it's easier to overheat them in comparison to usual rotors. I don't think I feel significant brake performance with them, it is comparable to usual rotors as well. Perhaps, brakes are a bit sharper now, but it's not so significant. My personal opinion is that better to buy good usual rotors since they are cheaper and likely less prone to overheating.
Thank you for instruction, for the moment I do the same maintenance as you and including removing exhaust manifold, cause one of the studs was broken by previous “workers” (f..king bustards…)
I haven't seen it in real life, but I believe it can if the seals are worn out, so some exhaust gas can potentially enter the oil lines and increase the pressure. What exactly leaks?
If you have the same blow-by like in the video, I highly doubt the oil comes from the breather. I bet it comes perhaps from the cold part of the turbo, according to your description. In this case, the turbo cold part would be all oily. I would suggest to check radial, axial play of the turbo shaft just by hand. There should be 0 axial play, some radial is acceptable. Does it whistle a lot? Blue smoke? I'm not an expert, but by checking its play you can say a lot. If you need some reference, I have a video on my channel about the crankcase breather. There is my turbo and its play, and I consider it's okay. If no severe play, no blue smoke, no significant oil consumption, I would then replace the seal when the intake pipe connects to the turbo, clean everything, and spy on it more.
Can instaling a vortex breather stop or atleast reduce oil consumption? I had a turbo rebuilt and i still have oil consumption and also leaking oil from bottom of hose from intercooler to intake manifold
I believe it's worth to try it. However, if you have swirl flaps, I wouldn't install the vortex filter. Have you replaced intercooler seals? They can leak even if the turbo / breather are good, there is always some small amount of oil in the intake (like one little spoon). There is a chance that you have old oil in the intercooler. If that's the case, it's worth to unmount it and clean. I would clean the intercooler, replace the seal of the pipe to the intake manifold, and run the car without the charge pipe to the intercooler to see how much oil turbo throws on, say, 2k rpm. It's enough to just start the car for 1 min, rev it to 2k for like 15-20 seconds. You can put a bag on the turbo output pipe to catch the oil.
@@ShadetreeRoadsideRepairs consumes about half a litre on 1200ish kilometers, i added the breather as I had a new one that I never fitted ( case was empty from factory) and I will see if it helps at all. I dont have swirl flaps as my car is a 325d and they dont have those.
I doubt the breather would help then, it sounds like a more severe issue. Even without any filters there, it won't be even near 500ml/1200km. Since you said you saw the oil leak at the output intercooler pipe, I would check the turbo again. Evaluate its play and check the amount of oil in its housing, even if it was rebuilt. Off top of my head, if it's turbo, perhaps sometimes you can see blue smoke, e.g., you stop for a couple of minutes, and then foot to the floor, and you might see some blue smoke. Other ideas, I had similar consumption when I had the crankshaft seal leaking, but it was visible. If it's not turbo, no visible leak anywhere, and the breather you installed doesn't help at all, then it's smth even more severe. Could be worn out rings, blown head gasket, or valve guides. I would check the amount of blow-by gas from the brearher and perhaps check the compression.
I'm not sure if there is a part number of that bushing. I think it's a part of the knuckle, so only aftermarket options are available. You can try to find them by the rear knuckle part number. In my case, it is GS1D-26-11XC (Mazda 6 GH 2011). I was able to find only Febest MZAB-114 bushing by the part number and some other local brands that are essentially the same, and this was what I installed that time. So far, so good.
Hi, there was no real issue. Before cleaning the intake manifold, I cleaned the EGR. It saved me 0.5-1L/100km fuel. I was surprised and decided to clean the intake manifold, too. It actually didn't affect fuel consumption. However, my boost pressure (calculated) increased up to 1.46 bar max (it was around 1.35 bar max before). I think either intake manifold gasket leaked or MAP sensor hose cleaning helped. So, I did it mostly for fun and possible profit. Usually, there are no significant issues if your intake manifold is not clean, just performance / efficiency hit.
super usefull tutorials. i also watched intake manifold cleaning from your channel. i wish you can do a tutorial on how to change timing belt as well. thanks
I'll wait for Part 2. It's a fascinating process you have done. I'm getting my hands on work tomorrow, so I'll be following your steps. I hope it all result good.
I bought the pinion with the sensor together. AFAIK, there is either no separate steering sensor for sale or only some low quality brands. I recommend to buy the pinion together with the sensor (original).
Where i can find one And the hydraulic steering rack does it fit ? Because may be i will buy one with pipes and hydraulic pump to change it from electric to hydrulic
I would not go this way. Electric rack is pretty reliable, and not so hard in terms of maintenance. I doubt a steering rack from previous gen GG fits here w/o adjustments. Hydraulic pump installation would be tricky: where, instead of A/C compressor? Also, there is a steering control module, so w/o connection to the rack you would see errors.
