This channel is about repairing things yourself. Step-by-step tutorials will save you tons of money and make you feel good. You will be able to fix problems life throws at you in the house, at the car, and in the building field.
Whether it is mending your bicycle's tire or replacing the car's clutch, you will handle it with confidence and self-respect. It's not just about restoring things; it's about being creative. Let's improve your range of skills.
Great video, thanks. Do you happen to know if this will fit a 20” rim? It’s a big old tyre/wheel and I’m hesitant to buy the holder if it won’t fit in it!?
2015 T5. There may be air in the brake slave cylinder system. Needing on occasion to use my toe to raise the clutch pedal. I believe that on a 2015 t5 the brake slave cylinder is inside the gearbox casing, so no easy nipple to get at. How do I bleed that?
Can be master cylinder or slave. Slave is connect to the box and depends if its DSG or Manaual box. Check my DMF video and you can see where the slave cylinder is on the DSG. Keep us posted. You can do it
Absolutely Brilliant... I have the HP Laserjet 3050 , exactly the same innards, and the switch was sticky the same as your video... about 45 minutes from start to finish watching your video as i went along. Such a simple fix to what would have been e-waste. These are such an economical printer, and much better than the $$$$ inkjet cartridges
Well done and thanks for the feedback. Yes such a simple fix to get a good printer back in order. Much better quality than the new stuff. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules I DID IT! Not easy though - had to get that rusted nut off. The spline no.7 on the bolt just disintegrated so i had to clamp the actual ball joint and blow torch the nut and re profile the thread. Then put a new rubber cover on the ball joint. Which is what MOT failed on.
Yes right hand drive shaft is a known problem. They install them dry of grease from the factory which causes wear problems. Left side also wears but not as much. Keep us posted on how it goes. You can do it 👍
Hi yes, I was going to do a video on the whole Mini R56 lean and failing emissions etc. Yes flexi was the problem. The thing with these minis is that you can get a huge bill replacing bits and it doesn't solve the problem. A leaking flexi will throw the rear O2 sensor out thinking it's lean. Air gets sucked in at low revs as there is little back pressure in the exhaust. As the revs rise back pressure increases and reduces the problem. Emission tests are always done idling and 2500 etc and so low back pressure. The smoke tester is the way to properly check the exhaust and inlet setup. A leaking exhaust at the Cat/Exhaust junction will also do the same. You need a good mechanic who can diagnose by looking at the fuel trims etc. Keep us posted. You can do it 👍
i have a grinding noise when under load any idea what that may be drives fine but when i put the accelerator down to go faster a got a horrible grinding squeak noise ?? could thet be part of the fly wheel failing ??
@@YoucandoitwithJules sorry wrote wrong thing down its the accelerator only happens when i try to give it proper power ie accelerate hard to pick up speed i get a horrid grinding squeak but goes when i let off the accelerator but it doesn't do it all time only when trying to.pick up speed
@@scottharriswestwalesfishin639 ok then that is your clutch gone. It will be ok if you drive gently and don't give any sudden gas. If you give gas it will slip and make a noise. A good test is in 3rd or 4th when going slowly, then put your foot down to the floor (accelerator) and it will slip. You need a new clutch. Depending on how many miles it's down I'd replace the dmf as well while you are there. You can do it 👍
May end up going genune myself. I've tried one or 2 aftermarket ones now and none that.I have tried sit flush against the boot lid like an OEM one does. The latest one has (after 2 weeks) done the same as yours and the lens separated from the LED cluster.
I'm not gonna lie...even with the video, I still struggled getting it open for a bit but in the end I actually opened it as intended with the string rather than violently carving it with my pocket knife So many years of jaggered bags have ended
Well done it lovely when it works. Thing is now you know what you need to do. Doing it is sometimes tricky but now there's at least a plan instead of purely brut force. You can do it 👍
PLEASE PLEASE READ!!! this is a really fantastic video (the best on youtube) but note the kit I bought of Ebay looked almost identical in a red case and everything ..apart from the small fact that the semi-circle clamps are opposite colours, in other words the small shoulder ones (used to extract the bearing) are silver in my pack AND EVEN THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX ARE WRONG!!! - TELLING YOU, INCORRECTLY, TO USE THE BLACK ONES FOR EXTRACTION (BIGGER SHOULDERS). I spent a good couple of hrs trying to figure out why I couldn't budge the bearing, jumping on a breaker bar... If you are reading this then please make sure you use the semi circles with the shallow shoulders to pull the bearing out (obvious if you think about it as the bearing needs to slide out in the gap through the middle..). The only other tip is when fitting in the new bearing, trying to get it completely square is very tricky. I found the way to it by lining up and screwing in, the bearing would want to tilt to one side all the time.. but then I used a metal block/wedgr to fit in the narrower gap one side to stop it closing further and then when continuing to screw in, it naturally shifted the load to the other side and evened it up all. You can then screw back a bit to release the block/chock and then you'll know when it's true and you can just wind it all the way in.
Hey mate, just a quick question you might know the answer to. I’ve recent picked up a t6 that had a timing belt change done but I noticed a bit of a whine coming from it, it looks as though the tension is to tight and the pin doesn’t sit in the middle on the tensioner. Can I adjust the tensioner (without letting the belt slip off etc.) slightly without affecting the timing of the engine? Or does adjusting the tension require the pins etc. to go back into the pulleys? Thanks!
Good point. Yes you should be fine just go move the pointer to the middle with pit locking the cam. You can always lock the cam and pump while you do it if you have the pins. Keep posted. You can do it 👍
Hi, There is a problem with my vehicle. After the engine warms up, there is a high pressure in the water hoses and the water hoses come off. When you're driving, the engine temperature is 80-85 degrees. The engine power is dropping. What's the problem? Thermostat? High pressure pump? Recirculation? Please share your ideas with me?
Sounds like you have a leak between coolant and cylinder pressure. Could be a head gasket gone or head cracked mostly likely situation. Has the engine overheated at some point ?Need to take it to a garage for tests. You can do it 👍
@@matrak10 Good move. You'll have coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant so will have to drain both and clean. Fit new oil filter/cooler and you'll be up and running again. You can do it 👍
Hi mate, I've purchased one of these to repair as it looks like a good workhorse. The only bit I'm struggling with is the slide appears to be rust-welded into the mechanism. Would this adjustment screw potentially release this? I didnt realise that the screw was under that cap.
No the box is programmed as you've programmed it and stay that way until you change the settings. So you can disconnect from the mains and it'll remember the settings for next time it's plugged in. Keep us posted on how it goes. You can do it 👍
Great series of videos. The sound track was very quiet, and you mumbled at times. I have a different model. Mine is a model 505-626 on the dial face. It is in index, although there is a mm scale, too! The dial goes from 0 to 100 to half way, then another 0 to 100! The box says 505-633 p15.
This is the best explanation ever. The other videos I watched left me confused but I know I will remember this technique because of how you explained it. It makes sense now. Thank you so much.
@@YoucandoitwithJulesI was just about to ask the same question about buying one. Do you think it’s worth me buying a cheap broken one for £50 off breakers yard and then giving it a go at refurbishing. Before removing the one I have currently fitted to my 2007 Mini Cooper S. the seals and the oil are my only worry in sourcing the correct bits as I have no clue or even know where to start sourcing. I see they sell a rebuild kit for £183 from a seller on eBay but thats not a option now.
@@BlaxJakx Difficult to answer as it depends on your skills, tool availability etc. Nothing to lose for 50 pound to buy a used one and give it at go. You could start with just sorting the oil out and then if you get it to work you can look at sourcing a seal for another time. You can do it 👍
@@YoucandoitwithJules I have commented in regards to buying one rebuilt off yourself (send a donor if preferred). Very interested if this is something you’d do. For skills, I’m pretty handy, have changed engines and done simple things like cam belt and can work my way around a older engine but it’s the tooling that’s the struggle as I’ve got a basic tool kit and confidence to remove the pump and empty the oil out of it and refill with gearbox oil or whatever is recommended but like I say above I would be very very interested in buying a pump / having one totally refurbished by yourself. Do you have any other contact information, I’ll leave my email if you don’t want to leave yours on here? Thanks for the reply mate.
@@tnt440 These saws thank god were made in a more sensible time and do not have cats. If you have a saw with a car and you remove it you just have to adjust the carb to suit as it'll flow better without the cat and need more fuel. You can do it 👍
do you think I can do the same thing with an existing Hvac 3p compressor with a 3p grid so I can make it output less power ? (off course there lots of variables for this thing, but what should I make sure/watch for? except for some kind of feedback/off switch so that the ac compressor would not constantly work)
This principle will work on all 3 phase motors. You can reduce its rpm by reducing the frequency. I run a 3p log splitter with the same type of VFD. Hope this help and let us know how it goes. You can do it 👍
Everyone wants a quick fix. If you mean crank case ventilation, then yes. The prince engine runs high positive pressure due to blow by so this needs to be vented into the inlet thru one of the two valves in the cover, back one when no boost pressure from the turbo, and side one when turbo producing boost. Valves should never be both open otherwise you get unmetered air flow. You can do it 👍
Thanks for the vid, very informative, I'm over due to change Brake Fluid on a VW T6 manual, just wondering if you have any tips or advice considering the manual clutch and brakes share a reservoir. Thanks in advance.
Hello, I changed the wheel drive shaft, the wheel rim, everything works well. The wheel is not blocked if I do not tighten too hard when I tighten hard yes the wheel blocks. The wear I have is at the hub of the brake shoes, I do not understand, the gear works well. I stop riding because I see metal residue on the rim and above the gear box.
Have you dealt with dsg gearboxes before ? They have oil pumps in the box to pump oil up to the megatronic and operate the clutch's. This all needs a constant supply of oil at pressure. Check up the specs with VW. Thats why they sell boxes of 6 litres of fluid. Hope this helps. You can do it 👍
That pump is exactly what I use for my engine oil filter housings on my 2000 MK4 Golf and 2004 B5.5 Passat 1.9 TDI's. Well worth doing as you get loads out. I need to do my output shaft seal on the passenger side on the Golf. 6 speed manual DRW super long ratio box. I have Sintafluid to put in it when I change that. Takes 2.3 litres apparently.
