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Nice work. I really enjoy videos of repairing brass instruments. If I had my life to live over again I might well choose instrument repair as a side hustle to my performing.
Excellent video. Thank you so much. This helped me repair my child’s flute when I know I would not have the money to get this work done. Big help and a good lesson in maintenance and repairs.
I would be concerned about removing all of the strings at the same time, such that the loss of tension on the top plate could loosen the sound post and if the wood is really dry, the sound post could fall over, which turns a rather quick job into a longer job. I'm sure you know what you are doing, but I would be a bit more conservative in my approach. Is that excessive wear on the fingerboard such that it could stand to be planed a bit? Is that a groove under the A string or just silver residue from a silver wound A string?
Very good, except you did not address checking to determine if the cork may be too thick to properly fit into the female tenon. Many times it is too thick and must be sanded down some.
@@pauljmeyer1 oh I see! Sorry for misunderstanding. Loads of things contribute to this. Being left dry can be a factor, but typically it’s being left wet with the wrong stuff, milk, pop, snot, bacteria and other yummies like that. Bad oil, as in old petroleum gone rancid, can sometimes be a factor as well. I’ve also seen the medications people are on contribute, so, any number of reasons.
Thank you so much for this videos, you explain things very clearly. Also your video about the flute made me fix me cheap flute that couldn't play anything bellow low G.
I bought a used cello and the new strings won't fit the tailpiece. I hate the copy/fake Wittner combo tailpieces. I didn't factor replacing it in my cost.
Yeah… the fake Wittner are a mess. There are two options for you: 1) use a pair of flare nose pliers (and only flat nose) to slightly squeeze the string just above the ball to help it fit the fine tuner. 2) Use a screw driver to gently pry the fine tuner open - be careful here, there is not much room for expansion but it can be done.
You could... but I'm not sure how much it will help. 1st you'll have to get the rosin off the screw if they are stuck, then graphite might help a little to make them function a little better but the rosin will be more sticky and eventually replace the graphite.
Contact cement is why you need. Get it at Ace Hardware, put it on thin, put it on both the cork and the clarinet, let it sit for at least 5 min and then press it on. Where it makes contact is where it will stay so line it up right.
These kind of videos are the reason I sometimes have to spend twice the amount of time repairing something you either did, or told someone to do... Awful
Hey thank you for the video, I dont really have any hide glue is it ok if i use regular glue? Maybe a glue stick? It sounds hilarious but it is quite hard to get hide glue here where i live
I think i have super glue also and that does not stay permanent and will probably be easy to take off the fingerboard(if needed) later on in the future. Is that ok?
I’m afraid this is one of those applications that you really need the right thing. The reason hide glue has been used for centuries is because it works exactly as needed, including the ability to get things apart when that becomes necessary. Typical wood glue is next to permanent. Don’t use it. White glue is almost as immovable so don’t use it. Super glues also fall short. Order some glue or take it to someone who does this for a living, they’ll have it and it’s not an expensive repair.
Good information. I would just add, if the file is sprayed with a lubricant like WD40 or soaked in a rust remover like Evaporust, prior to using a wire brush, it helps the brush do it’s job.
I've heard this tip before but I use my files on high end violin bridges, fingerboards and necks, I've never felt good about the possibility of getting low quality, wood destructive oils on my finished product...but I'm sure it would help clean the files. I get mine pretty darn clean without the use of oils, plus I save myself the step and expense.
My flute keeps making a buzzing sound when I play C# or when I don’t press any keys how to I know what is the problem? I can’t seem to find the problem I know is in the middle part of the flute on the end but I don’t know :(
GUYS I NEED HELP!!! My G key is playing a F# and I have a concert in a week and a half. I have no idea why it is doing that and no tutorial is helping me. I have no time to take it to the repair shop because it takes about 3 weeks since where I live theres only one music store in the whole territory. SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASEEE😭😭😭😭
This is a difficult one. There are 2 pads involved in your G and one of them seems (and I’m guessing here because I have not inspected your instrument) but seems not to be closing. Unless you have a split E mechanism installed on your flute (the G key is split between two independent keys and not just one fixed key) then the repair is beyond what I can help you with here. Sorry. Go buy groceries like chips, health bars, fruit, root beer, chocolates, etc, and take them with you to the repair shop. Start by placing the chocolate on the counter, then your flute. Add snacks as needed to get your flute done sooner. 😉
Thank you very much for guiding me through a simple but yet so important repair. I was about to run to a repair man. I really want to educate myself on the mechanics of this wonderful instrument. This channel is a perfect start.
Hey Mister! What's your opinion about Aubert adjustable/movable bridge? I bought it from Thomman and I took my cello and went to fix it in a musical instrument maker but i never saw any cello anywhere to have this kind of bridge. and it wasn't a cheap bridge. Do you have any opinion about the sound it can give to my cello? Thank you
They are an expensive bridge! They are not so bad in a pinch but I don't like them for sound. The grain changes direction in the feet and this is the main reason they don't sound as nice.
@@repairmasterclass thanks for your opinion! Actually.. im afraid for the same thing! But i just had it at home and at the shop that i go they prefer to put this bridge than an other maybe because they have less job to do with this. And less adjustments. But we wll see what's gona happen!
@@12345621770 Let me know what you think the results are to your sound. If you don't like it, tell this shop I offer trainings on how to do lots of orchestra repairs including carving bridges. ;)
@repairmasterclass so the sound is better! Stronger and better timbre from before. The cello is a sr1102 4/4 stentor. And in addition to this bridge I also have Il Cannone Cello Warm & Broad strings.So, the resaults for the sound are better. but overall I find the hight of the bridge pretty high for what i used to play. and the sound post is bigger diameter now. For a student cello i don't know if this is the optimal set up. They told me that the distances for strings and height have the correct measurements. The only problem is that i get a lot of wolf tones.
Hmm... If I understand your issue correctly, this can be a difficult one. If you're referring to the notes of B and C on the staff, these notes can involve a long air column and lots of places for small leaks to pile up. Typically this has to do with the F#-C# key on the bottom joint and can be tricky to adjust correctly and remove any lost motion. If you're referring to B and C above the staff, then I would think you have the screw at the G#/A location a bit too tight and the G# is not closing all the way. You want a little bit of movement of the A key before it hits the G#. Loosen that screw and see if things improve.
Sorry for my delay, I was on vacation. There are a few reasons this could be happening. 1) The screw at the D key (could be on top and easily visible or under the key) could be the issue. Use a feeler gauge and adjust accordingly. Very, very small turns of this screw make big changes. 2) The D# key on the foot joint could be leaking. Use a feeler gauge to test for a seal here. 3) The D key could be leaking. Take a look at these possibilities - learn more about how to do this with the Emergency Repair Guide available for free on my site - and if you're still having issues, take it to a shop you trust.
For my clarinet, I have screwed the G#A key you mentioned for many turns. However, nothing seems to have changed. (I want to fix the issue that my G# part not lifting enough when I press the A key
If you've been turning the screw several times with no change, I'd guess there is another issue at play. The screw may be broken (this happens a lot with plastic screws) or something else. Start by trying to take the screw out - so turn it counter clockwise and extract the screw (don't drop and loose it) to ensure the screw is not broken. If it comes out, it will go back in. When it's in, make sure the G# arm is not bent to the point the screw does not contact the A. If these don't show you the issue, take it to a tech you trust or ship it to me to take a look at.
SPANISH... HOLA , SOY DE ARGENTINA Y QUISERA QUE ME QUITES UNA DUDA QUE TENGO. EL TUBO INTERIOR DEL TROMBON, ESTA HECHO DE ALPACA? O, ¿DEQUE MATERIAL ESTA HECHO? PORQUE TENGO QUE SUSTITUIR EL CAÑO DE UN TROMBON PERO NO CONSIGO EL MATERIAL, YA QUE EL MISMO NO ES DE BRONCE, SINO DE ALGUNA ALEACION, PERO NO SE DE QUE... AGRADEZCO VUESTRA AYUDA Y RESPUESTA. GRACIAS, MUCHAS GRACIAS.
The inside slide of a trombone is most often a brass tube that has then been chrome plated. In some horns, they use a nickel tube. The trick for sourcing a tube locally is the stocking - the bottom 6 inches or 15 centimeters has been expanded to within .003 to .007" (.07 to 1.77mm) of the outside slide. This is done to make the trombone, with lubrication, air tight. That's difficult to do by hand... Reach out to the manufacturer or any of the many suppliers for some help getting a replacement tube.
It can do A job... but not THE job. Wood glue will hold it on there for all time and eternity. That seems okay but it's not. At some point, I promise you will want that fingerboard off the neck and only Hide glue will let it loose. Some try to argue with me saying the application of heat will loosen wood glue - and it does - but the temperature needed to penetrate ebony will also warp the maple neck cut this thin. Hide glue is what to use.
Use real hot glue, not this Titebond crap. Takes too long to dry, and is not fitted for instrument making, at least not for stuff you want to be removable
My fine tuner screw won't stay on the arm and keeps pushing itself off and isn't centered on the tailpiece... Am I just out of luck and need to buy a better fine tuner?
Fine tuners do have a useable life and once they get to that point, it's SO MUCH better to just replace it than attempt to bend the metal into something useable. Good news: they aren't too expensive.
Great presentation! Very informative!! I recently installed a set of Knilling Planetary pegs on one of my violins which I have enjoyed tremendously. However, I do believe the Wittner has a higher gear ratio thus eliminating the need for fine tuners and making it much easier to "tweak in" as you explained in this video. The Knillings work beautifully but I do find it a bit more challenging if I only need a fine adjustment. For my next project I think I'll go with the Wittners! Thanks so much for this!! Liked and Subscribed!
Hello, thank you this already seems helpful. I tightened all my screws and now all the notes sound the same... please help? Is there an exact tightening for each screw?
