well, hopefully not an hour. I'd say you need longer exercise for the body and more mental work to drain the brain so the body can rest. How old is your dog?
An update he’s gotten better but as soon as it hits the floor he goes for it and you can tell he’s so anxious he can barely stand still he will sit get up sit until finally he does stay still and I slowly lower the bowl. Maybe I will just keep trying
@@Zell8158 Divide your food up into 4ths. Make it easy on him to start, because it's not easy in his brain. He can go for it when it hits the floor for a few days, but the waiting for you to put it down should get easier. Then, I would stand up adn do it and the moment he steps forward, after just making a noise of the bowl hitting the ground, be ready to pull the bowl up and bump him back. Have a back tie on him as well so he can't just run around your feet (or you can hold the leash if you are good at that). Only wait a second though to start before releasing him to the food at first. Build slowly. Teaching place command is VERY useful as well. This dog needs more impulse control work in other areas for this to become less stressful. Think place work and short duration, crate, pausing at crate door before coming out and doors that lead to the outside. More boundaries or this may bleed into some other issues.
I like the method and mine is different but been 93 % effective, but it does become muscle memory to the dog. In comparison to the second turn your dog did it on his own. You have great presentation skills I really noticed on your welcome video and this one ☝️. I don’t usually watch these types of videos this is new account and was researching things for my dog. Good job
It really does look like a collar scratch and not an itch scratch. Does he continue scratching after collar is removed would define it for sure... Impressive results on the tap and turn!
Yeah, but he also scratches prong collar and he scratches the collar itself, when it's not being used, not just the ecollar stimulation box. Anything he feels pressure, he scratches and he also does it just hanging out in a down. Some dogs scratch, others shake, others don't care. All different variations. A bath will help, but he'll always do it to some degree, especially if it's allowed to stop training for him to do it. It'll lessen over time with work, but he always will some.
I have an 18 week old Shihtzu and I am nervous about the slip leash as I was told they are dangerous for shihtzu. I am a new dog owner and am overwhelmed by the information available. I'd love to get him walking well on a leash - he just pulls and pulls and pulls on his harness, he eats EVERYTHING... ugh.
You need head control and you should be careful with slip leashes with dogs like pugs and shitzu's. Since you are a new dog owner, I would do a small star mark collar instead. It's a plastic prong collar. I know it looks scary, but it's safer and you can actually be MORE gentle on one. You can get them on amazon. It's always my go to for new owners and small breed dogs that might have a sensitive trachea or eye issues. Slip leash does take skill and practice. Make sure you practice on leash training with food IN the house and in the yard or hallway before going out with it. If you like my content, head to my page, find puppy playlist. Look at the most recent vide and work backwards :)
As a decent self trainer, putting my dogs into rehab style scenarios tends to confuse the owners. Thank you for your firm gentle approaches 0:19 0:30 0:36 0:39 0:44 0:47 0:52 0:57 1:03 1:05 1:07
Anxiety is worked on in so many way, you often can't correct it straight out, but I can take a command the dog knows really well, ask for it and correct for non compliance. Then, I just see if that helps with the impulse control that is bad because of anxiety. That's basically what is happening here. He is corrected on ecollar. We also worked on corrections for OUT through play when he's in drive and that helped with over all impulse control and correcting for not heeling when asked (if it was in an environment he was familiar with and good at, always after a warm up too and knowing when I was asking for too much)
Hello, watching this for a second time since you originally posted it and realized I never got around to asking you the question that I still have. How do you decide what amount of sniffing is okay in order for them to find a spot to poo ? Sometimes it seems my dog has to poo and then I realize he just doesn't and he is essentially just taking me for a walk:) How do you take your dog for a walk and be in control somewhat of when they poo ? Thanks
I appreciate your videos. I have 3 dogs and my daughter is currently living with me and she has a dog. So total of 4 dogs. My youngest is a 18 month old sheepadoodle and I really am trying to figure out how to get her to calm down in house. Always so excited and clumsy. She walks heels perfectly. It’s just trying to teach her to be more calm. Do you recommend any particular videos? Thank you for all these videos. You’ve helped me some much.
Often times, yes. This is a very thin slip leash I got on Amazon and when you teach leash pressure, have good food drive, you can be very successful. However, on breeds with short snouts, big eyes or yorki's (known for having trachea issues) I prefer to first train on a star mark or a micro prong (with rubber tips if dog is sensitive) and when they are doing well and an adult, switch to slip if you want.
Thank you so much for doing this video! been searching internet for help for a long time, but yours is the first video I've found about addressing the dog's issues with ear cleaning and their behavior.
She💯knows her stuff. More like 1000%! So caring too! I wish every dog trainer were like Bethany & her man @ Ruff Beginnings! im so sorry i forgot his name lol. He cool too!!! all the best you guys! Hope your dogs are well :)
Thank you for the tips! Do you find that as soon as you leave the house for the walk and the dog is very excited, you need higher levels on the e-collar initially to get their attention than later on after the excitement subsides? For an already trained on the e-collar dog of course. :)
Yup! I would also say the walk starts inside the house. How is the dog when you put your shoes on, grab leash, leash up, walk to front door, open front door, etc. I rarely work on the walk. Usually I'm working on a lot inside first before working on things outside. Just don't forget that. For me it's so important because that is how I am fair to the dog. Not letting excitement go and then just being demanding.
I believe not to forage out in front when in a heel, and to recognize the end of the leash, and not hit it(pull). The dog is pushy, and pushes the limits of the leash.
@@accufab Interesting! I feel for the owner I doubt it will get fixed like this. In your comment if a dog is pressing you for 6 inches and like this dog being in front is about who's leading and who's following.
@@chrisr-m6568 basically yes. The dog is trying to lead. This can lead into other issues like reactivity. Some dogs just have a pushy personality. In these cases the handler must be more structured, and have clear boundaries for the dog. This is not a “soft” dog.
@@accufab Yea, I'm a dog behaviorist. But it would be rules not necessary structure. When you have a dog that's trying to lead the issue is more trust and respect! The problem is this trainer is conditioning an e-collar to stop a behavior, but an e-collar doesn't create leadership it creates suppression which is fine if that's the goal. This dog does need a firmer owner! This trainer needs to teach the owner how to be firmer to create a softer dog. And it's not a prong & e-collar! once the owner makes a mistake with the e-collar that a whole new level of trust and respect that will be lost.
@@chrisr-m6568 -see you have now shown yourself as a purely positive trainer, I mean (behaviorist), with an agenda. As opposed to engaging in a non productive conversation I’ll just drop it. By the way if you’d like to hire me, I can show you how to build drive reward, leadership, and trust with using an ecollar. We do it all the time with hunting dogs. Then you’d have another tool in your tool box.
Gosh this reminds me of my struggles with my pushy field lab. Always pressing me for that extra 6 inches. I’ve fought this forever. I get him going well, then in time he starts wanting to steal just that extra space in front of me, or tap the end of the leach just a bit harder. It’s like a part of his personality. Thank you for this video.
So I lived in a apartment complex for a few years, and my Shiba Inu is all about sniffing and honestly the more I let him smell, which is practically all the time now outside because that means when he goes inside he's cool and doesn't need to exert any more energyhowever now we just moved into a complex where it's all houses and obviously it's completely different and he wants to smell everyone's yard now I give him 6 feet which is the amount of the leash for him to walk up someone's yard to smell, etc. but sometimes he wants to walk up all the way to the door area and I'm just like no I'm in like that's been hard honestly
I bought a huggy pup for my little dog. Wow, the smell from microwaving the heat pad is awful. It's smell is overwhelming. It doesn't smell very nice & my living room smells dreadful. My little dog loves his soft toys but he won't entertain the huggy pup. Very disappointing as I had high hopes for this product.
Do you have anything with step by step instructions? My puppy has the worse separation anxiety. The crate is absolutely a no go. It ends up being a full blown cleaning and grooming in the middle of the night because he will pee, poop, and step all in it. He has to sleep with me because he acts a complete basket case if I put him in the crate. I don't get much sleep with him sleeping with me because I'm worried if he moves if he has to pee.
head to my RU-vid page and browse videos and playlists. There are so many on my RU-vid page. It depends on what command you are working on (I mostly have come and place examples)nand what stage you are at with ecollar.
@@RuffBeginningsRehab hello, we are at the beginning. The dog doesn't want to go to his place, when I take him to his place, the doorbell distracts him. We started training with a prong collar, but it didn't work. We introduced ecollar into training, so I would like to see a video on how to punish a dog when it does not want to go to its place or goes out without permission.
@@mateuszkopacz5509 if a leash didn't work you don't go to ecollar. Everything should be taught with leash first, including corrections/guidance. The ecollar should just be an off leash tool or maybe for charging the door. Using the ecollar for the door bell depends on what and why. Is your dog barking and jumping towards door? Moving away from door unsure? Or just pacing when door bell rings? How is your dog at place when the door bell isn't ringing? Is place usually easy and comfortable/fun for him?
@@RuffBeginningsRehab the dog is polite on walks, but we must wear a muzzle during walks. the "place" command is known. when someone rings the bell or knocks on the door, the dog runs and barks, we want to prevent it from doing so and punish it for such behavior. If he listens and stays in his place, gets a treat and a toy, he is very happy. As he runs to the door and clenches his jaw, he receives a warning in the form of a prong collar. However, I don't always have time to run and take him to my place, so I want to introduce an electric collar so that when we are not at home and the dog is naughty (we have a camera in the living room), he will receive a remote impulse injection and calm down. the notification can record a video of working with the dog and using the tool collar. you have a great channel on RU-vid. I've already watched a lot of movies.
I would say you can correct the bad behavior of reacting to the door with ecollar, but then in such an intense and emotional scenario, guide him back to play with body language or leash guidance. Say no leash and you correct running to the door intensely. Dog might just freeze. Get in front of him and just use spacial pressure (walking into him) to have him give more space, no ecollar and then say place when you are closer to it in a neutral tone. If that is even hard, then you need to have your dog drag a leash when you are supervising him so you can calmly guide him back to place with the leash. He will put it together quickly. This is to make sure you don't accidentally over communicate with him.
I am SO grateful I found this! I have been dealing with same exact behavior from my foxhound rescue. Nobpdy understands the training I'm doing because they don't see how those small behaviors turn into big behaviors. He is really good at manipulating other people and that's where I'm really struggling. People don't respect my boundaries with my dog and it seems like it undoes all our progress
I know! People really don't understand until they have experienced the difficulty themselves. All we can do is advocate for our dogs, don't put them around people that don't listen and be really clear with guests.
Um, well, yeah. Maybe I'm misinterpreting your comment, but muzzle conditioning a dog that bites the owners is probably a smart thing to do as they are working on this. Did you think I had the muzzle on for no reason?
So many good dog training channels do not break down their handling techniques in this much detail. They operate off their own experience and sixth sense. Which a novice like me simply cannot replicate nor figure out. THANK YOU.
I would just like to say that your video was fabulous. The way you explain things how you were with the dog. Thank you very much. You're good at what you're doing.❤
With more dedicated, serious breeds, or dogs that arent food motivated, turning the 180 into a (light as possible) leash correction will refocus their attention extremely well. I've seen 5 minutes turn a dog around. I like to start with your method, but if they willfully ignore it for more than a couple sessions, firm motions work wonders. It can be temporarily stressful for the dog, but getting a dog to the point where they get to quickly enjoy happy, stress free walks is preferable to then spending days, weeks, months struggling through training sessions.
We do plenty of those, but we don't start there. Also the younger, the more foundational training and consideration they get is important, but I totally agree in general.
I have a 9 lb Bolognese who is afraid to go outside. He's very sensitive but adorable and fine inside. I live in the north woods and there aren't many people or other dogs. When I take him out he pulls on the leash. I like your technique a lot, but my little guy is so short I'm afraid I'll step on him with this method. Your thoughts, please? And thank you for this instructive video.
It's definitely harder to move into small dogs. You hold the leash back a bit for guidance like in the video and then out and away from you a little. Once your little dog starts to look up at you when they see you move towards them (more slowly then big dogs) you won't need leash pressure up and away from you anymore, just maybe still back a bit for guidance. If you are struggling with those things, I would focus more on the redirection though walking back and food (if he'll take it) and turning for a week before layering on moving in. Also, don't start outside. Practice in the house and yard for a couple weeks first.
@@RuffBeginningsRehab Thanks very much for this help. I hadn't used food but that is the way to go. My little guy is very responsive to food training, so I will take your advice!
you desensitize the Dremel, food Dremel. With a place command and a leash taught to the dog, you should be able to get right next to them, then you use food and desensitize noise.
I have a 4 month old mini poodle video helped me thank you were just starting out in house first should i start with harness or collar she freeks out on both so far , 10 minutes a day training her to wear harness should i just try distract her when i put it on her and leave it on,i no its one day at a time training
yes, she just needs to get used to it, no pressure, so just wearing it, then wearing it while eating, playing and training with no leash or dragging leash and build to using it over the course of a couple weeks. If supervised, try 2-4 bouts a day of wearing it an hour. She needs to have it on long enough she doesn't care about it anymore before taking it off. That is likely o take longer then 10 min.
