@@wolverine565 I upgraded to beadlock wheels and 37s with about 5k on the Maxxis setup. However, the wear appeared to be not much for the mileage on them.

@@kevinmckinney9524 That's funny...I had the Ridge Grapplers on my short list. I only got the Maxxis because of supply shortages at the time of purchase (needed better tires for an up coming trip). Once tire supply improved and I had enough time and miles on the Maxxis tires ... I started tire replacement selection via a clean sheet of paper...and wanted to go from 35s to 36s. My top level performance requirements were: on hwy, desert, rocks, sand, hard pack. Secondary terrain: wet roads, mud, snow. This list made the Maxxis not the best choice ... So I ended on Ridge Grapplers or Baja Legend EXP (new tire at the time - hybrid tread pattern). I decided to go with the Baja Legend EXP option... and it has been an excellent decision. Note: I've owned Nittos for my 4x4 truck and track car ... The tires were always a brand and model(s) I liked for their performance... I really do not care about cost... I want tires that work how I expect them to and to not bug me when I'm driving down the road, on the dirt, or around the racetrack. One last note: the Baja L-EXPs don't really pick up many rocks in their tread ... actually fling less rocks than the Maxxis MTs. Ill put good money on the ridge grapplers flinging tons more rocks than the Baja L-EXPs. One more thing... The Baja L-EXPs in 37s had near the same weight as the Maxxis in 35s .... That was another reason I went with the Baja L-EXPs...they are way lighter than most other 37s Hope this info helps out some ...

@@kevinmckinney9524 My jeep is the slowest road legal vehicle I own ... Even my road legal dirt bike has a faster top speed....

@@jesusglopez8430 you're very welcome.... Thank you for the kind feedback....

I'm not brand loyal when it comes to almost anything. So when I use Maxxis tires on my dirt bikes, quads, and side-by-side it is because of Maxxis performance. I like a tire that provides lots of feedback and Maxxis usually does. They did really well to adequate in all types of terrain, however, snow and wet hard surfaces are their weak spot. I also wouldn't use them for mostly rocky trails. I personally wouldn't buy them again unless I lived/drove in soil type terrain vs desert terrain. The tires were an emergency purchase around the time when covid was killing the supply chains. I did a video just on the highway performance of the tires because there wasn't much info on it. Here is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DS97lswDzss.htmlsi=2GkoZYJYVxSjGrB_

@@hitmanhite8958 Thank you for the kind feedback... Nice ride!! I have a 2020 KTM 500 EXC that I use the trail tech with....my dashboard, nav, and onx all in one. I also ended up putting a trail tech in my SBS. The one on my 500 only lasted a few thousand miles....it started to pwr cycle on warmer days and do strange crap with RPM graph. Thought it was the mount but it ended up being the actual unit. Have a nice one...

Pretty impressive ride! Sounds really nice... I've been doing a lot of research on the newer diesel emissions stuff every since I purchased my 2019 Cummins. I have 18k on my 2021 JLUR (I have 5 road vehicles that share my road miles) and have had more emissions base CELs than I care to list. I've resolved every one of them (no dealer visits for me)... and learned some key tidbits about these EcoDiesels. The best investment I made was to install the Banks iDash setup...it lets me monitor DPF backpressure, soot level, DEF commands, DEF tank level, etc. So I can see if my DPF is not clearing out (backpressure post regen cycle). I've changed my driving style some to be better inline with keeping soot gen slowed...i.e., I have 37s with stock gearing and I found that if I keep the highway/freeway RPMs between 2-2.5k the soot level burns down vs climbs. The biggest surprise was how fast the MAP sensor starts reading incorrectly (over pressure)..thus over fueling and generating extra soot...my MAP starting tripping "Service Electronic Throttle" with only 16k on the Odom. The reset of the emissions stuff can be easily (IMHO) cared for. The EGR snout isn't too bad to clean.... the DEF nozzle can be easily cleaned (it should be a scheduled maintenance item IMHO)...the DPF can be cut apart--cleaned out--and welded back together... all simple and cheap solutions. So I'm a little optimistic that I can keep my EcoDiesel emissions stuff working for many miles/years. One last item...I've been working on/testing a custom setup for an Oil Catch Can...it is still causing the CEL (like most every gets that puts a catch can on these 3rd gen motors)...but I think I'm getting close to getting it all resolved/adjusted for the PVC sensor. I'm going to post a video on the setup if I'm able to get it to work. I'm not sure how much oil it will catch, but I have a CAN on each of my Hellcats and I have to drain the CAN about every 3k miles (~1/3rd full). I think keeping some of the oil vapor out of the intake system will allow the EGR gases to not gum up as much....more likely to just pass through the engine vs attaching and building up on intake parts/surfaces. Fingers crossed! Have a nice one...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq DEF delete works also

@@irvinmoore6479 I wish that was an option in my region of the world...sadly it is not....😢

Good question... IMHO the two main variables that make the mod work well are: Mass & Volume. A 2mm pellet would easily address the volume side of things; however, I do not think that small of a pellet has enough mass. If they are made of lead (vs steel) then the mod should help some (if made of steel then will only help a little -- my best guess). I'd opt to use lead balls in the 3-4mm range. Here is what I purchased for the mod ( www.amazon.com/XS-Scuba-Diving-Weight-Orange/dp/B0020L0GKQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KVOQ2MQBF7LP&keywords=XS%2BScuba%2BLead%2BShot%2BWeight&qid=1681483388&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=xs%2Bscuba%2Blead%2Bshot%2Bweight%2Csporting%2C130&sr=1-3&th=1&psc=1 ). Also, be careful on the sizing stuff... "buckshot" is not the same as "shot" (#4 is completely different between the two -- #4 buckshot is 6.8mm -- #4 shot is just 3.3mm). Here is a link to a chart that might help ( www.rivermenrodandgunclub.com/shot-size-chart--recommendations.html ). Hope this helps...

Where to start... optimal tire pressure(s) depends on lots of factors (i.e., tire side wall-stiffness and height, tire size, vehicle weight, terrain, air temps, etc.). My 28 psi was for the specific tire I was talking about...and the info was to info people that 28 psi on the highway is perfectly fine with these tires. Have you every heard of the 4 psi rule of thumb for tires?? And for that type of off road tire, an excellent sand tire pressure starting point is 18-20 psi...then lower if sand is super soft. Don't take my word for it...just take a few seconds and google it. I'm betting that you will quickly find that your 28 psi advice is in a very small minority of people that would agree. Have a nice one...

No, I cannot say that I have...and I cannot imagine that I wouldn't have noticed if it did pop-up. I use an aftermarket gauge setup to monitor my REGEN status and state (% and if active)....so, if I'm getting close to a REGEN cycle I'll take a more freeway route (to my destination) to allow the REGEN to happen under best driving conditions. I also (when driving conditions support) do one last trick once the soot level drops (burns off) to 25%...I come to a stop and do a full throttle accel (60+ ish) to get high exhaust gas velocity & slightly higher heat for the last portion of the REGEN cycle.

I have I just drove on hwy for like 15 min 70 mph

👍👍

Thank you for the kind feedback... regarding foot pegs... are you talking vibrations in the foot pegs??? If so, then there really aren't many viable options IMHO....and none I'd do/use for an off-road motorcycle. Your options are to isolate the foot-pegs from the frame and/or isolate your boots/shoes/feet from the foot-pegs. Either solution, to work correctly, will make for a very mussy feeling where your feet contact the bike.... not something I'd like to be riding with/feeling when trying to control/feel the bike via the contact points...foot-pegs being a main one. Just my two cents..

See my first reply to your first comment/question. In short, I personally wouldn't call different stiffness springs being an advantage or disadvantage over lighter springs. All other tuning variables being equal (weights, idle speed, free-play, etc.)... heavier/stiffer springs just delay the initial and full clutch engagement to higher engine RPMs. A heavier spring setup will have a larger engagement RPM range (from initial drag to full engagement)...thus giving you the ability to use throttle control to maintain the clutch in a constant slip state (partial engagement). The lightest possible (correctly tuned setup) will make the clutch engagement happen from initial drag to full lock over a much narrower RPM range. One last note, a heavier spring setup will also cause you to lose a lot of engine braking -- clutch will disengage in the mid RPM range -- it will coast a lot more than with lighter springs. Hope this answers your question...

First off, thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question...I'd first say that it depends on how you ride (RPM range you like)/use the clutch. The auto clutch engagement function (and disengagement) is based on three variables... Clutch weights mass, spring stiffness, and engine RPM. The first thing to do is to make sure you have the engine idle RPM set where you want it (engine full opr temp). A higher idle RPM requires stiffer springs and/or lighter weights. Seeing that the only two things you can change easily, idle RPM and springs (kit comes with different springs)...lets focus on spring stiffness...seeing that idle speed/RPM is set where you like it. So, if you want the clutch to engage just off idle and disengage just above idle (when coasting to a stop), then you want to go with the lightest/softest springs that DO NOT generate too much clutch drag at idle speed (too light of spring stiffness will result in your free-play being partially used up due to the weights overpowering the soft springs and thus causing the auto clutch pack to partially expand (eating into your free-play measurement). Note: if you go too soft on the springs for the weights you have installed then to get the clutch to not drag at idle you will have to increase the clutch spacing and thus will end up having a slipping clutch even at full engagement. If this happens you will have to go with stiffer springs (and/or go with lighter weights--which I wouldn't do--I'd focus on getting the correct stiffness springs installed--correct being the clutch engages/disengages more inline with how you would manually be doing it). Hope this info helps...

That is awesome your recommended setup works how you want it to... I still cannot believe how good my 250 recommended setup worked compared to the recommended 500 setup...that sucked so bad I wanted to put the Rekluse kit in the trash!!

Not only have I considered it...I've actually done it on 3 of my bikes....and I still cannot touch!!! 🤣🤣

Thank you for the kind feedback. Regarding your request...yes, I can make another video explaining (better) what & how I did the mod. I'll post an unlisted video and will put the link in a new reply to your posted comment. It might be a few weeks until I can get this done...look for something before the Jul 4th holiday. Have a nice one...

@SteveSmith-wl8yq awesome. I see the post is 3 years old but I said "hey, try it". I'll subscribed to be sure not to miss it

@@multipleman189 Here is a quick video I made explaining the mod a little more...let me know if you need any more/additional info. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Dgz4LJ7iH04.html

Thank you for the kind feedback.... The mod has worked out great!! I can actually use my mirrors on road and don't ever notice them (tucked away) off road.

It's been installed for over 9 yrs in my 2014 300 xcw (300+ hrs)...and no, still working/holding up.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq F king love these real life examples that been tested.. Thanks man.. AWESOME. im in!!! Also thanks for responding. Truly helps a ton of us! Im a newbie .. so thanks!!!!! God Bless! 🙂🙂🙂

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Subscribing.. thank you. Love folks helping others out

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq an 300 hrs at say 50 mph be like 15,000 miles.. plus your rattling the hell out of it on dirt.. ok im totally sold.

@@bwnco thank you for the kind feedback ... First time RU-vid helped me was 2007 ... decided then to pay things forward-information (if I can). Have a nice one...

Yes, they didn't install 6th gear even though the trans is the xcw version ... So it is easy to make it a 6 speed if you buy the OEM parts and split the case. The bike runs out of gearing well before running out of power. My same year and model 250 does just over 100 mph...but it has a 6th gear.

First off, a big thank you for not stating that your completely stock bike does 130 mph...you would be surprised how my people make such claims. I owned a 07 CRF450 for my Baja pre-run bike..in mostly stock trim, but with slight gearing change...it could hit just over 100 mph...it took a bit, but it would hit it. My 1983 XR500R did right at the same top speed as your 2008 Honda. Even my 2002 stock CR250 would hit in the upper 80s stock. However, KTM really screwed up the XC models by not putting in 6th gear (the newer XCs have sixth in them). The bike (450XC-F), in stock form, has enough power to pull right at 100 mph...but gearing kills it...5th is just too short of a gear (IMHO)! And the 6th gear they didn't install comes out of the EXC models...so 5th to 6th is a street (dual sport) jump...making it suck for dirt (too big of a gap)...so I never got around to installing 6th.

I wish!! Lol...

Thank you for the kind feedback ... But, do you really believe you know "exactly" what tires I have on my trailer? I think you might try asking before you state stuff that you do not know, first hand, as fact!!

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct about not knowing what tires you have. I don’t believe a tire for a utility trailer has a speed rating above 75 mph. Although I could be wrong. As a professional driver I believe driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you.

@@lawrence7065 Since you felt it important enough to pass along unsolicited information/advice/your stance…it is only fair that any comments from you that can be validated as incorrect/uninformed/etc. should be addressed. First, speed ratings for tires...more specific…trailer tires (i.e., utility trailers). A person can quickly, and easily, find trailer tires with a M-Speed Rating…it only takes about 60 seconds. A M rated trailer tire (or any M tire) has a top speed of 81 MPH, at MAX LOAD. So, as you move below MAX LOAD the actual safe Max Speed increases (physics at play). How much is debatable, but it’s not going to be an insignificant amount (IMHO)-it is a math/physics thing…not an opinion thing. So, driving 10-20% over 75 MPH with a 40% loaded utility trailer (tires only using 35% of their max load rating), with at least M rated tires, is not really adding any measurable increase in risk due to tire rotational speed failure. For you second concern. Your statement that you are a professional driver is an important input; however, your comment after that is without a solid foundation…let’s call it a fact-less based discussion/statement. For you statement to be true, “driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you”, requires a lot…and I mean a lot of additional data to be entered into the equation. For example, driving in Utah on I-15, the posted speed limited (down south) is 80 MPH. So, if the majority of traffic is going…let’s say… 85 MPH… it is actually safer for myself and drivers around me if I travel at…or at least pretty close to…the pace of the surrounding traffic (this all assumes that I have a proper rated tow vehicle towing a proper rated trailer with proper rated tires and with environmental conditions supporting 85 MPH as a safe speed, and I maintain a proper safe space/gap between my vehicle and any vehicle directly in front of my vehicle, etc./etc./etc.. Additionally, if driving at a faster speed on a completely empty road --- not passing anyone and no one passing me…and no traffic anywhere near me for at least a tenth of a mile or more…then how is driving at those speeds (as you state) a risk to the traffic around me when there is not any traffic around me?...just a single car now and then…??? You seem to make a lot of fact-less based assumptions on things you have no first-hand knowledge about. And then you take it one step further by passing along “your” stance on how “other” people should behave. You know nothing about me…for all you know my skill as a driver is triple yours and thus you driving at 75 MPH is more unsafe to yourself and others than me driving at 85 MPH. The speed at which you are traveling is only one piece out of many pieces that statistically define/determine risk level. Thank you for your comments and feedback…

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct on tire speeds. Thanks for educating me. As far as safety goes. My opinion is over 65 mph it becomes unsafe. That’s how the state of Nevada feels as well. Speed limit for tow behind trailers is 65MPH in the state of Nevada. But overalls I’ll give you the WIN.

@@lawrence7065 I'm not looking for any type of Win...you commented on your opinion - with info...I replied with comments on my opinion - with info...it is more of an agree to disagree vs a Win/Lose thing. And a tow-behind safe speed of 65 mph also has average driver skills add into the equation...as are almost all max speed limits (road, avg driver skill, etc.). I'll take a bunch of professional drivers speeding all around me vs a bunch of too safe-scared drivers doing 20 mph under the speed limit and camping in the fast-lane! But, I'm more of a statistics type decision person... agreeing to disagree... Thank you for your comments and feedback... Have a nice one...

Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough...or at least it is better than it was!!

Thank you for your too kind feedback and comments... If it only helped one person it would still be worth it. Yep ... Still riding ... However, I do have a new 2024 KTM 300 XC that I've owned for 3 months and have yet to ride it!!! Life getting in the way of life .... Lol....

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Awesome news about the 24 XC. I have the 24 300 XCW. I just went through the entire spring issue with my bike. Slavens said six steel springs for this particular bike, didn't work at all. Tried three steel and three silver, almost worked. Called Rekluse and they said six red springs. I installed those and now it seems great, although I still need to ride and verify and that will be done today. I hope you get out soon on your new bike!.BTW, your information sure helped me big time, thank you!

@@onthethrottle7104 Nice!! Not sure if you picked up on the importance of having your idle set where you like it and the engine at temp before checking/adjusting the springs & Freeplay. I didn't cover that adequate enough in my video. Hoping to ride my 24 300 XC within the week....but our temps are hitting right at 100 degrees...so it will be a shorter morning only ride! Which Rekluse kit did you go with?

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Went for a ride today and everything was perfect! With six red springs engine brake holds all the way down to idle, and when taking off it locks up right away, as soon as you touch the throttle it's locked up. I broke it in per Rekluse and then took it up some nice hills and it's adjusted perfectly. Even after running the engine for at least 45 minutes everything works perfectly and no adjustments needed. With the idle set at good spot, the freeplay is perfect...it's just all working perfect. My left hand rear brake is also working perfectly. Going riding tomorrow as well but this time I'm going into a real gnarly area I'm used to and I'm excited to give this new system a test. I went with the Radius X, 4.0- it's the same one Slavens said to go with on the new XC and XCW's. The clutch pulls really easy and nice compared to a few buddies I ride with that have the 3.0, their clutch pull is kind of hard. They run 2020 XCW TPI bikes, so it's really the same clutch system for the most part. I will report back after tomorrows ride! Hope you can get out and ride as well. Thanks again!

@@onthethrottle7104 Thank you for the update and clutch model info... Sounds like you have it dialed in nicely.

Thank you for the kind feedback... First time for that approach... lol...

Thank you for your kind feedback. Yes, I agree, too many projects...I thought I could have most mods done to my Jeep within 18 months...well I'm double that time and still have a few remaining to accomplish (this doesn't include news ones selected over the past yr...just the ones that have been on the books for at least 2 yrs!)... lol...

Thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question "recommend a good ball joint for pitman arm end"...requires to know more about how you use your jeep, what tire size you are running, how long you plan to keep your jeep, etc.. There are many good enough ball joint manufactures you can choose from...too many to list. OEM is good enough unless you have already worn out the factory one (but I'd need to know how many miles on it). A smart move would be to just upgrade to heavy duty, but if you do not plan on keeping your Jeep and/or do not really drive off-road with it then that upgraded is not worth the extra expense(s) IMHO. But, if you are just looking for piece of mind then going with HD upgrade might be worth the investment/piece of mind. The ball-joints I went with on my knuckles are the Teraflex Dana 30/44 HD Ball Joint Kit...I'm not sure if they make a kit for the factory drag link, but they do sell upgraded drag links with upgraded ball joints. I think the market mostly supports all new HD drag links or just OEM ... people tend to do one or the other if replacing ball joints...because I really do not see many upgrade options for the part you inquired about. I'd try the following three websites to see if you can find what you are looking for...note...I think if you find the part it most likely is of good enough quality...these sites tend to drop/stop carrying crappy products (IMHO). Sorry I could not be more help. Feel free to ping me again if you do not find what you are looking for. teraflex.com/ www.northridge4x4.com/ www.quadratec.com/ Or give this site a try...tons of aftermarket parts and they sell replacement OEM drag link pitman arm ball joint option.... but they are not serious off-road focused like the three sites above. www.rockauto.com Hope this info helps...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq First of all thanks a lot for you nice answer and sorry for my bad English. Here you have a simple video for you to see the Wrangler: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vvZSRmwIdL4.html It has 33 tires and all basically stock. I do something like 90% road and 10% off road when I go to the mountains near Madrid. I would like to know what it means a bigger investments going for the HD ball joints and bars. I plean to keep my jeep as much as possible I am very happy with it. It has the 4 in line Turbo charged gasoline engine and it feels really nice. My only problem is that after installing the new tires (Ko2) it wants to drive a little bit to the right by itself. The well is center and the toe is correct, but I think oneof the problems is some game in the ball joint which connect the pitman arm with the bar. Thanks!!!

@@samsara2024 Nice looking Jeep! We do not have very many Yellow Wranglers here in the USA. Ok, a few pieces of additional info and an answer to your investment question. First your investment question. It costs a lot more money to purchase heavy duty parts and unless you are using your Jeep in a way that actually puts the heavy duty parts to actual work then you are better off just buying OEM (or OEM like) parts for a lot less money….because they should meet your needs good enough. I do have a follow up question: Do you know for certain that your pitman arm drag link ball joint is actually worn/bad?? If so, how was it verified as being bad?? Now to your steering pulling to one side. Here are some bullets on my thoughts: - The steering wheel being centered, or not centered, shouldn’t be the cause for any pulling to one side. - The pitman arm drag link ball joint being bad should be the cause for any pulling to “only” one side. It would cause more a sloppy feeling with the steering…i.e., hard to keep the Jeep driving straight on the highway/freeway (same type roads). - A pull to one side is usually caused by several different possible factors o Tire pressure differences (not small) between left and right side front tires o Caster differences between left and right side of front axle o Camber differences between left and right side of front axle o Thrust angle of rear axle and/or track misalignment between front and rear axles Also, here are a few thoughts on why the problem surfaced once you put on the bigger tires. There are several reasons, but the core one being that your OEM tires masked the problem and the new tires actually highlight the problem. Different tires (models, brands, etc.) have different sensitivities to vehicle alignments/setups/etc… to include road conditions… So, the new tires most likely are not the reason for the issue…they are just making the issue a lot more noticeable. I hope this info helps out some…

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Hello! I will try to answer all the questions :) 1) new tires are the Ko2 all terrain 33 inches. 2) pressure is ok in all of them 3) I measured caster and its around 6 degrees in both sides but I can be wrong. (I have factory arms, so I can not change caster) 4) I have Toe in more less 0.8 degrees. 5) Camber I dint measure but I dont know how camber can change. Maybe a blend axle? 6) My steering wheel is center. I mean I hold the steering wheel by hand and the car goes perfectly straight. But if I let it go it star a soft turn to the tight most of the times. 7) I went under the car and I asked my wife to make short left and right movements with the steering wheel. I then was touching and the ball joints and I was feeling a "clack" in the ball joint connecting the pitman. I was clacking when when the wheels were changing from left to right. My feeling to be honest is that the car is very very sensible to the change of slope of the road. Not the forward slope, but the lateral slope. Dont know very good how to explain it :) 8) and by the way do you have an email or something to have a better way of communication that youtube comments list? :D

@@samsara2024 First off, I clearly and easily understood all your answers/info. Yes, I can be reached at (singletrackriding@cox.net).... also, my jeep had the exact same issue! I have adjustable control arms and thus was able to add a slight bit more caster to the left side and that corrected the issue completely. Here's some additional info: Question: do you feel that the steering wheel doesn't want to be centered when you let go of it?? Meaning, do you feel you have resistance/slight pressure to hold the steering wheel centered when driving straight? - Camber really will not change unless the ball joints wear...however, this doesn't mean that the camber was totally good from the factory...they only correct camber if it is way out and it is usually correct by using off-set ball joints (upper). Yes, a bent axle housing can change camber, but I seriously doubt that that is the case in your situation. - If it was my Jeep I'd have the toe set to ZERO... or as close as possible to zero. Your Jeep should steering/track a lot nicer/better with that setting (I set all of my road vehicles to Zero Toe). - Regarding the crown on roads...the best road to test steering pull is on a 4 lane (or more) highway...or find a section of road that has very little crown...but you really need to be at higher speeds to feel/see the pull to one side.

I had a really good time on that ride (actually over a few days)...but unfortunately I've one ridden that area once...the time with Dennis. I keep planning to head back there, but I end up not going due to having to ride solo (schedules not syncing up). Maybe this will be the yr I actually make it back there! Have a nice one and thank you for sharing...

I hope you get it good enough for your wife to enjoy driving it again...I know mine is amazingly good for being a Jeep with a lift and 37". I have learned several more important things since posting this video...info covered in the below bullets. - The measurement is 1.25" from center to center (you can most likely increase it to 1.5" -- but be careful to not have the sway-bar link come in contact with the rear axle housing during closest movement -- when sway-bar is end is perpendicular to ground) - I cannot remember what I set the caster at, but I'm thinking about 5 degrees. What I can say is that more caster makes steering inputs feel slow and less caster makes them feel quick (with Jeeps). I did end up putting a little more caster into the driver side due to the vehicle having a slight constant pull to the right -- the rest of the alignment was spot on (too include tire pressures)...and as a test I tried the slight increase of caster on one side and that fixed the problem completely. - Regarding Toe-in/out. I ZERO out ALL my vehicles to a ZERO TOE (no neg for pos toe). I find that ZERO toe makes my vehicles track a lot straighter with variations in road surface. It made an unbelievable difference/improvement for my Jeep Trackhawk and the wife's Charger Redeye (tires are 305 & 315 widths). - Last item (I hope I explain it well enough) ... and a very important one in my opinion. It is the steering stabilizer. Any resistance to steering movement caused by the steering stabilizer has to be overcome by all of the steering components before any steering input changes the direction of the front tires. To fully understand this effect try or imagine changing out your steering stabilizer to a solid steer bar -- your tires will not turn in any direction and not even the smallest amount ... however, as you turn the steering wheel steering components will start flexing and/or flex at their mount point(s)--having stored energy that is release as you relax the steering input. A too stiff of a steering stabilizer will generate too much resistance to movement and your steering components will flex some (and store energy) before the steering inputs changes the direction of the tires (and I'm talking the little inputs you make when driving on a highway/freeway) and then as you hold the steering input correction the stored energy will slowly release past the steering stabilizer resistance and you end up with a little more steering input that you thought you asked for...and you end up doing a steer left...wait...then steer right...wait...steer left again...etc... etc... IMHO this is mostly caused by the stored energy in your steering components caused by too much steering resistance caused by a too stiff steering dampener. If this is part of your steering issue (which I feel will be the case if an upgraded steering stabilizer is being used/installed), then I would seriously consider purchasing the FOX Factory Race Series 2.0 ATS Steering Stabilizer...because it has adjustable resistance and you can find the sweet spot of having just enough steering stabilizer resistance without causing too much flex/stored energy in the steering components. How I found a good setting with my FOX 2.0 dampener was to drive at freeway speeds and keeping backing out the stiffness of the dampener by two clicks each day I drove my Jeep. Then when I finally found that two clicks out didn't make it steer/track any better I went back in two clicks stiffer. I did this very same process on my 2019 RAM 2500 4x4 (used the FOX 2.0 dampener) and my truck steers that best it ever has. I hope this info helps out...let me know if you need any more follow-on stuff/info... I'm sure I'll get plenty of internet trolls telling me that I have my head up my A$$...but hey, that is price of admission for doing RU-vid video posts!! 🤣🤣

Thank you for the feedback... your setup sounds very nice. I did consider E-trac, but opted not to use it for several key reasons (specific to what I was looking for and needing). Also, I just sold the trailer because I have to go to a 8.5x14...so all the mods will have to be redone! I'll re-look at E-trac as an option... have a nice one...

Your comment(s) implies that you know everything you need to know after just reading the title or watching the video--meaning knowing what I did or did not do. I do deal with/contact Jeff's business! -- and he didn't have any detailed videos posted to help out people that did/do not know of Jeff (like a lot of overseas riders). But hey, I'm sure Jeff would rather people call is shop all day vs watch a video he posted! The "lol" thing is that you completely miss the point ... that swapping springs is the last step in the tuning process...because it is a FINE TUNING step. Rekluse (I'm spelling it correctly -- you did not) design engineers also agree with me because they include, at a minimum, 5 different settings for spring configurations. One last observation, why the crap would you even watch the video if you already believe the primary place to get info is from Jeff Slaven?? Strange... Thank you for your feedback, but I'm still going to stick with the video because there are more than a few people that have thanked me for the extra info...it made their use of a Rekluse clutch that much more enjoyable. ... and I'm betting I will see at least several more positive comments in the coming years.... so, it was all completely worth my time to pay something forward. Have a nice one... 😂😂

@SteveSmith-wl8yq your comment implies you're a pole smoker with an ego problem . I'm glad you don't ride on trails anywhere over here , you wouldn't make it out. Keep making videos for all your You Tube fans 🤣

@@Matthew-wn8oq lol... TAC....

Nice tires... I liked the Maxxis but I ended up going with Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP 37x12.50x17 shortly after. The Maxxis were to mud focused and I really do not need a mud tire. Also, I wanted to go with 37"s...and the MT BL EXPs seemed like a good risk to take...so far I love the tires. I was worried about them catching and throwing lots of rocks, but they actually do better than the Maxxis (almost no rock throws). Regarding your question(s). Here are the parts I purchased...but had to do custom mods to make it all work like I wanted. The Gas Jug has a custom mount that gets bolted to the High-Lift Jack. I use the Factor 55 locking winch mount bolts so it is not easy for someone to steal...but very easy for my to un-bolt when I need to use the jack. Teraflex Alpha HD Hinged Spare Tire Carrier and Adjustable Spare Tire Mount Kit (custom modifications) - needed this due to the heavy/upgraded spare Hi-Lift Jack 42" Cast & Steel Jack - HL-424 & wide BASE stand - went with 42 vs 48 to keep the jack no higher than the roof line AUXMART High Lift Jack Mount Rear Off-Road Jack Mounting Bracket (custom modifications) - just a simple design off of amz RotopaX Rollpax Fuel Pack (1.5 Gallon / 2.0 Inch Mount (custom modifications) - this is a UTV/SBS type roll cage mount design Hope this answers your questions...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes Thanks,

Lol...I just made a video....just a second and I'll give you the link. Here is the unlisted link ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fg_KjxnFi9k.html ) on a video that explains the frame mount side of the install... the steering rod install side isn't anything that needs any additional info. Let me know if you want more info/another special video.

Well this is really nice of you...I'm sure your wife appreciates it a lot. But, your statement is a little strange... Because I would (also) never let my wife do any section/part/obstacle that is outside of her skill... so I'm not sure what you are talking about... Your statement states Very Clearly that you not would leave your wife behind at the hardest parts...well every trail has a hardest part and if my wife can easily do the hardest part(s) then it really is at no risk to allow her to tackle sections that she can do over and over again without any issue whatsoever! Also, any item that could cause her some surprise I stay and wait for her...when she sees me she starts slowing and checking for risk sections/items. But, hey....I'll run it past my wife and see if she wants us to live by your standards even though living by our standards (for over 60 yrs) hasn't been anything she is interested in changing. My wife has tipped over 3 times since the 1980s...once because her 3-wheeler front tire broke through the snow crust and the front tire dug in (about 20 mph). One time climbing a hill on her 3-wheeler when the rear tires grabbed traction without warning and she wheelied over (about 2 mph). And the last time when navigating a wash and let her right front tire grab the embankment and cause her to steer aggressively into the embankment and tip over (maybe 3 mph). I was right with her on the first two and only a little way in-front on the last one. But, thank you for you helicopter concern...I'll pass along the info to her and she if she want to call me a Sh&*head! lol.... 🤣🤣 Wife just read this and said "nope, were good!".... 😜😜

Ok. You do you. Have fun out there!

@@jeffbennett8633 👍👍

Howdy...

There might be now, but at the time I did the mod I couldn't find one (any)...and once I proved that the test mod worked it just became a permanent mod by default. The mod extremely easy to do yourself (in you have access to a welder).

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq yes it could be great if you would make a tutorial :)

@@samsara2024 If you are interested in doing the mod then I can make you a video with all the key details...I would post it on my RU-vid page, but keep it as an unlisted video (I'd just put the video link in a new reply to your latest post/comment. Let me know if you are interested.

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq yes of course! It will be great!! :)

@@samsara2024 Ok...but it will be a bit before I can make & post something...super busy with other crap...give me a few weeks.

Ok...whatever works for you ...

That is one opinion out of billions of opinions ...

Yes, stock gearing ... But almost 5k feet above sea level... So, maybe 2 more mph at sea level and for sure with a lighter rider...geared up I'm pushing 220 lbs.

What, the fact that your parents had you! You seem like such a nice addition to the human race....I bet you're an absolute joy to be around ... Always bring such positive vibes into people's life. Thank you for the comment ... I like a good laugh to start the day....

That sounds about what mine would do stock. .... all may friends that have done similar engine mods love their bike a lot more -- even if not needing the increased top speed. ... and thank you for being honest ... The amount of comments I've got with people saying their stock xxxx bike does 125 mph is amazing!!!

I had to make a custom mount for the stabilizer body...and I made sure that the steering shaft stabilizer clamp was made for the size of steering shaft on the TRX250 (it turned out that a TRX300 has the same dia steering shaft...so I bought a 300 kit in hope that I could come up with a custom valve body mount...which I was able to do. .... And yes, I still own the quad. I'll make a short video of the install design and then post a private link (here) so you can watch the video. I should be able to get something upload before Monday morning...so if you check this comment on Monday you should find a new comment with a link to the video.

Thanks, that would be great! I'm glad I came across your video! I just spoke with Precision Racing the other day to see if they had anything for the 250ex/ 250x and told me I would have to make a custom mount. I ordered an Elite for my 400ex, then I could see if I can come up with a mount to make one work for my wife's 250ex, but if you already came up with one that will save some time! I am also planning on Elkas in the near future for her machine, too. Now that you've had it for a few years, is it worth the money over the stock suspension?

@@hibrimic The stock shocks are super cheap and have way too little rebound dampening (IMHO). I cannot say if it is worth the money without knowing how aggressive they ride and the terrain they plan on riding in. The more aggressive the rider and the worse the terrain the more the upgraded suspension will be worth it. I've been racing off-road since the mid 1980s (desert and MX)...so, I'm pretty picky when it comes to my suspension...however, the suspension on the 250 was put on to make the quality of the ride a lot better for the wife (super soft and not bouncy). I wanted shocks that I could adjust to her weight and riding style...Elkas where pretty much my only option at the time. I guess to answer you question in a different way...would I purchase the Elkas again if I had to do the mod all over again...answer is "yes". Hope this info helps... I should get the mod/bracket video posted either tonight or by late tomorrow night. Have a nice one...

Yes, this helps. We've had her 2001 250ex since new and mainly trail ride here in Wisconsin where we live. She loves her machine and doesn't want a big 4x4 or anything with a clutch. Now that we're older, the rough trail have more of an effect on us so that's why I'm upgrading her machine. We really appreciate your time and helping us out!!!

@@hibrimic Ok, I've made the video and uploaded. However, it is still processing (very slowly) so the video will not be visible for about another hour -- looks likes RU-vid servers are working overtime tonight. I'll have to post the video link in this thread sometime tomorrow morning....sorry for the delay.

... and you make the human race an overall negative experience! My guess is that you most likely are an absolute joy to be around (sarcasm)... Good for you...

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq What i said is a fact , this you can't deny.

@@whocares264 You bring so much unintentional entertainment... what you said is not fact, because you didn't even state it correctly!!! Your statement implies I pollute for fun...which has nothing to do with owning/using a Jeep off-road. I'm assuing that what you meant to say is that I pollute while having fun...meaning the Jeep is fun and pollution is a byproduct of the activity I'm undertaking. So, NO! It is not fact that I pollute for fun...I do not see anything about polluting as being fun. So, I can very easily and accurately deny your statement as not factual at all. However, you would be correct to state that I pollute while having fun. And since you like to strongly play the fact card...how about this...anything you own that was purchased because you want it means you pollute just to get things you want .... not things you need. If you drove your car to point of sale...you pollute to satisfy a want. And then, the item purchased has manufacturing, transportation, marketing, point-of-sale display, etc.. pollution trail for all stages ... and since you added to the supply-demand cycle you just added unnecessary extra pollution just to satisfy a craving! Almost everything you do in life adds some amount of extra pollution to the environment that otherwise wouldn't have been added had you not been born! That is actually a solid fact that you cannot hide from nor deny! I can only assume that you are one of those selective enforcement type people...i.e., a hypocrite!!!

@@SteveSmith-wl8yq looks like all that pollution has damaged your brain.. pollution is for necessities is different than pollution for fun.... why don't you and your vehicle stay in your closed garage with the engine running for fun .

@@whocares264 Wants vs Needs....I stated wants...you stated necessities...which is a Need!! You cannot even communicate correctly (at least two significant mistakes in this thread). The data more indicates that you are the one with brain damage. You want to try showing even more of your lack of intelligence...I can use the entertainment... lol Have a nice one...

Thank you for the kind feedback. I need to do an update video because I've learned a lot more since doing the current video. If you haven't read all the posts for this video, I highly recommend you skim over them because a few have some very detailed replies/info from me. Hope you find a good newer ride!!

Nice!! I think mine could hit near 61 to 62 mph if I was 40 lbs lighter and at a lower altitude. My 450 hit in the 80s...

100% agree!! However, I've learned that most of the emissions reliability hits can be corrected with pretty basic maintenance skills...so I'm not as concerned as I used to be.

​@@SteveSmith-wl8yq😅