My bike is the same make and model/year as in the video and it was running really rough and backfiring. I used this video to clean and replace seals in the carb and it ran great...except it would still backfire occasionally. So I seen on another forum about the AIS system (Air Injection System). Anyway, posters on this forum mentioned that this could be a source of the backfire. It also had a short video on how to disconnect the AIS. So I tried it, and it worked.....no more backfire.The AIS is an anti-pollution device. You might also want to look at this as a source of any backfiring.
I installed on it but is leaking gasoline on the right side from the hose on tap of carburetor the one with black filter you called brither tha one is open
I’m am so frustrated I can’t find anywhere that shows the cable being out back together as much as I watch your vids to help rebuild my bike how dare everyone over step the cable 😢😢😢
I've had 3 or 4 Viragos, 750 and 110, loved them, hated removing and installing the carbs, sometomes I used a 1/4" ratchet with an extention and swivel going from the front to get to the rear carb mount screw
Great video. However I have a problem with the fuel pump on an 1100. When starting the engine it pumps fuel out of the brether line. If I set my thumb on to the brether line the pump stops. Do you have any advice to give me?
Saving this one to study. Gonna be doing some work on the 93 xv750 I bought this spring. It’s filled the crank case with gas twice now so I’m guessing it’s more then just a stuck float. Plus I have a high idle issue. Once the engine warms up, it wants to idle at about 3k. I’m guessing it’s either a vacuum leak or an issue with the big throttle diaphragms. Luckily, it’s been a while since this video was uploaded and it looks like I can get kits with the big diaphragms for like 20 or 30 USD.
Hello. I purchased a 1992 Virago 750 in summer of 2023. A pristine bike with only 6,000 miles. It had been sitting for ten years. All the fuel had leaked into the crankcase. I have had to use a heat gun to soften the gunk gas to disassemble the carbs. On mine I removed the plasstic casing the diaphram assembly slides up and down. There are two "security screws" holding the plastic cassing in place. Upon removal, you will see two orings (square rings) that seal the part and carb case. Mine were hard and worthless. If these rings don't seal, the fuel will leak past and bypass the needle and seat. Nothing is noted in the parts diaghram for replacement rings. Still working on resolving this as of 2-17-2023.
@TimeTraveller1117 so I took apart my carbs, rebuild the bottom end of them and decided the vacuum diaphragms were fine. Some further testing showed that the vacuum operated peckcock on the tank was not sealing, as well as me not understanding how it actually worked. So after rebuilding that, and it still leaking, I put a valve in my fuel line right down steam of the tank and that keeps fuel out of the case vv
Hello. Yes, installing an off/on valve in the fuel line between the tank and carburetors will stop the fuel flow at your discretion. The vacuum actuated petcock is failing and the neadle/seat is failing as well. I have had bikes where the same type of petcock (vacuum operated) is OEM, and instead intalled a manually operated petcock. The Kawasaki Concours (C10) is the one I am most famaliar with. I bought my manually operated petcock from Pingal. Be leary of cheap Chinese made aftermarket fuel petcocks. To properly fix yours, I suggest you buy the OEM petcock diaphram. I posted a video to show you what the two orings I was talking about in the emulsion tube casing. The Virago I am working on had gas that was at least ten years old, and is why is was such a bugger to disassemble. Furthermore, the needle and seat must be working properly as well as the correct float bowl height for the bike to run properly. The two orings (square rings) I mentioned in the video, if not seating, will allow air and perhaps fuel contamination of the proper adjustments. Hang in there! Plenty of good people out here in cyber land that are more than happy to help keep these great old bikes and their riders on the road.@@joeanspach539
@TimeTraveller1117 the oem peckcock diaphragm and o-ring kit is what I used to rebuild mine. I suspect that it's just given up being 30 years old. I'll have to look into those square o-rings to see what you're taking about. I did get my float level right though as the bike runs great, even under a good uphill load at wide open throttle for a decent amount of time.
OMG...I wished I would have seen this video before I took my carbs off......this would have made it soooo easy !!! Thank you, thank you,...for posting this. you are a GENTLEMAN, a SCHOLER and a Judge of Fine WOMEN !
I know this is an old video - but I just got a 93 Virago 1100. On one of the carbs, the bottom of the emulsion tube cover is broken off. When I have searched for replacements, I do not see any that have the plastic cover - it's only the "guide slide" piece. Does anyone know if this piece is available? It's visible at 15:28 in the video.
This video has been my go to video since starting the carb rebuild job on my 96 XVS1100. A good portion of the 245k views are probably me. There are a couple things that tripped me up though. On my bike, the bolts that go through the slotted portion of the carb boots are incredibly difficult to get to. So I had to carefully work a 1/4" drive 10mm socket, on a extension and universal joint in between the two carbs. A real pain, but I got it. Another thing that tripped me up (and am ashamed to admit) is that the two carb boots each have a hole where the vacuum lines hook to. When I took mine apart, the nipple and all came out so weeks later I'd forgotten that and it took me forever to figure it out. There was one thing that the video didn't mention - probably because it's obvious to everyone but me. When reassembling, before you get the carbs pushed back into place, make sure you place the fuel line (the portion that has a braided covering) in between the two vacuum chamber covers at the top of the carbs. The vacuum line that splits off and attaches to each carb can lay over top of the fuel line assembly quite nicely after that. Boys and girls if you have never done this job before, (like me) make sure you take plenty of pictures - and from different angles - as you are disassembling. I did, but managed to miss angles that would have been quite handy indeed. Great video though. Thanks!
Thank you for your video. It saves me a lot of trouble and time, but this guy sets a Guinness book reccord time of 12:45 to remove the carbs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ezhPy_R-mIQ.html
Dear ShortMag270 .... I live in Brazil and your video is very good; I have XV750. When disassembling and checking the parts, I realized that this carburetor does not have the air x fuel mixture adjustment screw. If so, please let me know where it is located on the body. thank you
Dear @ChooseToThink I bought this motorcycle a few days ago and it has problems with the sealing of the gas inlet valve. As I am dismantling the entire carburetor for repair and general cleaning, I did not notice this adjustment for the idle circuit mixture. I tried to remove the main gigleur and I am noticing that when forcing the torque it looses its hand and rotates the entire Gligleur assembly + washer + high mixing tube. and as that there seems to be very fragile, I didn't want to force it. I even saw him in this video suggesting squeezing with pliers to avoid unwanted rotation. thank you
I totally agree with all the positive comments from other viewers! I just acquired an 84 Virago to add to my collection of bikes...even though it will need the carbs cleaned I was pleasantly surprised how much power it had when I opened it up. Now after watching this I am keen to get at them and cure the backfire on decel and stumble on accel. Thankyou so much...I admire the attention to detail you put in to your videos!! Cheers 😎
Hello Sir, I had bought a 1993 XV750 Virago, which had running issues, poor idling, backfiring and lack of power. From watching your two descriptive videos demonstrating the carburettors removal, stripping, inspecting and refitting, I was able to gain a confident approach to sorting out the issues that my bike had. Thank you very much for your videos, they both have great instructional value and without them I have no doubt that I'd still be struggling on with them now. Cheers!!
Hey I got the same issue let me know what the cause was I think mines a faulty vacuum carbs need synced and need to be properly adjusted for air to fuel I haven’t gotten into it yet seeing as how a carb for these are hundreds and the parts aren’t cheap either
@@slopdog9824 Hello Sir, my apologies for the late reply. I stripped both carbs apart, ultrasonically cleaned them with my own machine and carb cleaner. Inspected all the diaphragms, they were all ok. After reassembling the carbs, I then bench balanced them equally. When I stripped the carbs I found the rear carb running very lean (1 turn rear carb and the front carb was 3.5 turns open, and the throttle butterfly valve was virtually closed on the rear carb - the rear cylinder was the one back-firing with the bike running rough and underpowered. I reset the fuel air mixtures to an open, 2 turns out initial position and then ran the bike, made some small adjustments adjustments after running to temperature to 2.5 turns on each carb. Then, went out for a shake-down run to get the feel of the power and listen if the backfiring had cleared; it had cleared. I reset the idle position more accurately to a sensible tick over speed. Hope this helps in anyway possible. I have learnt a lot from many helpful videos on RU-vid. All the best luck sir.👍
This is golden. Used this to rebuild the carbs on my 97 750, unfortunately dealing with a backfire and fouling spark plugs. Is there an air/fuel screw on these carbs at all???
ive never worked on a bike before, let alone rebuild/reinstall a carb, but thanks to you and this video i was able to get my 94 750 running mint again, thank you so much for helping me through this headache, you sir are a scholar
👋 was wondering, do you know why gas would pump out the lower gas tank driver's hose when taking off the top tank? The top had some in it so I pumped some out took off the hose from top tank and it started pumping out gas fast, it pumped almost the whole lower tank out.
Previous owner had that washer installed like the manual, not like you showed here. Someone had the carbs apart before me. Thank you for pointing that out. It would barely idle and was running rich like you said. I was really getting frustrated with this bike....
Great detail and tips. Thank you for putting this out there. I was shocked today when I called 3 shops and all of them said they no longer work on the Viragos. They said they are too much trouble. I have had mine since 1994 (new) and never had an issue with it in 28 years. Anyway, because my 750 Virago sat for a year (could not ride) I had to rebuild the carb and replace the inside parts. After I did that (6 months ago) it was fine. Now there is an issue with the carbs and I can not figure it out. Spits and sputters. After replacing all the gas, checking air and fuel lines, I will need to pull the carbs apart again. I have watched this video twice and will now go do the pull and rebuild again. I have my hopes up since (still amazed) it looks like I am on my own to fix the issues. Thanks again for the great video.
