I’m going through a similar situation My Low Pressure Oil Pump has tiny dots not like lifter needles just bumps. The front cover has some light scuff marks but not horrible Everyone is saying to replace the front cover but I’m a bit hesitant
just did my front cover gasket and replaced the water pump and whatnot, trying to get the lpop gears on the crank and it won’t go in at all, everything is lined up but it just will not go in and i know you have to be gentle with it
Try to test fit each piece individually to make sure the gear will go on the crank then the outer half to see if it slides in. Can be a pain cause it's a perfect fit. It's a solid piece of metal, so if it needs a tape from a rubber mallet, won't hurt.
Thanks for this... Only saw the passenger side, so I got started. One of the other videos just mentioned in passing jacking the motor up a bit by loosening the motor mount. Yeah, right... OK, I'm going for the transmission now. I'd be done already otherwise. Again, thanks!
Best recommendation on those are to replace everytime it comes off. After 2 different customers being tow back cuz the quick connection failed and wouldn't stay locked.
Agree. It was an injector snap ring that the lpop feed to the hpop. Got 7 years out of that pump before this happened . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cxq6nzE-YAc.htmlsi=5ybWD01hTI8nnIq6
So far I have a 3-4k miles on it and no issues. I will be ordering the tool to check and clean the filter and will make a video while im figuring it out , haha. Correct for some reason I don't have the heater valve, was like that when I got the truck and hasn't been an issue.
@@crazypeople4x4 good deal man ima set mine Up kinda like yours hopefully i didn’t do all this work to just have to take the intake back off for a oil cooler lol hope this 4hr of back flushing will get me by for a while lol
I have a 03 GT with the 6 speed manual. Will I have the same issue with the trans when I go to replace my control arm? Haven't had a chance to take a look. 👍👍
Great vid Had mine on for 2 summers now .. HOW DO YOU TAKE APART THE FILTER? i had buy a aSpecial TOOL from IPR to dissablethe filter i cant get it to come apart idk,, but it works the filter but i know it need to be cleaned ,..NO tech support..
@@KERNFUZED not sure. I haven't bought the tool, yet Only 3k miles with so far. When I do the next oil change I'm gonna check it out and make a vid of the filter process.
@@crazypeople4x4 ya crazy I unscrewed the Knurled..filter put it in vise thinkin put tool with finers in there idl tryed to turn the inside nothing doesnt even seem like toool fits the filter thing i cant get it open!
Constructive criticism. The two hardest things to do on this HL-20 are closing the battery compartment, and mounting the device, both of which you did off camera. That was not helpful. God Bless America!
So far no issues, no leaks. I'll pull it apart when I do my next oil change. Flows fine, no temp issues towing. The sinister kit works well for its bypass design.
You have them backwards, the label should face the heavier end of the vehicle which in your case would be the front. And like others mentioned, the safety release would be easier to operate if it’s facing out.
I've had issues i THOUGHT was the fpr going out... but it was the fuel temperature sensor!! It was a cheap easy fix in comparison to the FPR.. however, i did end up buying a new FPR and CP3 pump (which i haven't installed yet) but the new fuel temperature sensor fixed all of my issues with poor mileage, rough idle, stalling, smoke, acceleration, fuel knock, very hard starts, poor shifting.. $35 dollar part and the truck runs great now
Good move by going with the Ford factory head gaskets in the kit you purchased, I’ve never seen any other brand actually last, also not sure if you have planned on sending your heads out to a machine shop but I’d definitely recommend it.
Running parked or sitting at a light, it would act like it was going to stall. However ran perfect cruising down the highway. Put a scanner on it and the desired vs actual was jumping all over the place. Replaced with OEM and back to normal.
@@hiltonlandingham ya you think it's about to die sitting at a light, haha. Didn't have any white smoke though that I noticed. Can't rule out an injector going bad also as an option.
I want to use this to zero my red dot. The question is, do i move the redt dot to align with the laser projected on the target? Or do i move the laser to the red dot? For example, if the laser (projecting the point of impact) is 1" low and 1" right, do i now move my red dot "1 up and 1" left which will bring my red dot towards the laser (my point of impact) Or do i move it 1" high and 1" right? Which that will bring the laser (my point of impact to my point of aim? Ive seen people claim that the proper way to zero a red dot is to bring the point of impact towards the point of aim, and not the point of aim towards the impact. Any input on this I'd really appreciate it.
I'm pretty new to red dots also and based on a few videos I've seen, I adjusted the red dot elevation and windage to align with the laser pointer on the target. So far it seems to be pretty good last time I was at the range. Borrowed it to my buddy and he said after he used it to zero, he had to make additional adjustments while at the range to get a grouping he liked based on the way he shoots. With that said, I'd make the adjustments then go to the range and see if you need to tweak it from there.
The answer to the bushing problem is right there in front of you. The 6.0 has a 12mm bolt, the 6.7 has an 8mm bolt. The difference between the two is 0.157 thousands of an inch. If you divide that by two the difference is 0.0785 or just a little over 1/16 of an inch on any side of the hole. 1/16 is nothing to the strength of the starter flange in that location. The force on the hole is in rotation, you have 2 other ears to help absorb the rotation, and the clamping force of all three bolts The answer is to get a drill and tap kit for 12mmX1.75 for 10-18 dollars. Carefully drill out the threads in the starter then tap the hole to 12mmX1.75. Your starter will not know the difference, you can reuse the same bolt that came out of the 6.0, and there is no looking for the "perfect" bushing or buying one from someone. They used to teach this stuff in high school now it is one of the mysteries of the universe. I am glad to have run across this vid as I will replace my 6.0 starter with a 6.7 starter. Shouldn't be a problem at all to mod the mod for a better starter.
The 6.4 and the 6.7 starters both crank the same. Yes, the 6.4 is a direct bolt on. Just buy whichever starter is cheaper. Sleeving the one bolt is the only annoying part. I just happened to have a perfect piece of pipe around that made the job easier. Definitely one of the easiest mods for better starting on the 6.0. Living in Canada, Incas say for sure, my cold starting was much better with the 6.7 starter.
Yes, however the 6.7 will draw a bit more amps to get the job done. The 6.7 was in stock and much cheaper than the others was why I did it. Could honestly get away with no sleeve between the other factory holes and clamping force, not gonna move. But the cold starts are definitely smoother.
All the bolts do is hold the starter in place. The force that the starter can exert on the bolts is in rotation which means that if the clamping force of the bolts doesn't hold the starter in place the starter is trying to cut the bolts off, it is called shear, at the place where the starter meets the bell housing. If your starter has the power to cut steel bolts off with an aluminum housing then maybe your starter is too big. It doesn't take much clamping force to hold the starter in place.
@@steventrojanowski3595 Then why are you watching a vid on the Ford 6.0L engine one of the most over engineered under built diesels that was ever sold. 4 Bolts not studs per cylinder, oil and egr coolers that can plug and fail, IPR valve that can plug and fail simply from a bad designed screen and the list goes one. Look at 14L diesel over the road engines and tell me how many bolts those starters have. You just do not know what you are talking about when you are
talking about over built. Besides "over built" just means extra weight for no gain in most cases. You should be looking for items that are repairable not over built. When was the last time you saw an alternator for example that was fully repairable at home with a rebuild kit?
Got one, mainly to clean two cars. Worked great. So much better than running a cord at my condo. Has enough power. This only comes with one accessory so grab a stiff brush attachment and a claw attachment and you are set. Got about 15 mins out of my 4ah HP battery.
I got one for my car as well. Also great for small messes from the kids, dogs, and cats we have lol. NOTE: The filter that comes with this shopvac IS WASHABLE. Put it in your sink and run water through it, inside washing out. Place back on to the shop vac and run it for about 15 minutes to dry the filter. I just slap a small 1.5ah battery on it, run it and forget about it lol
