Automotive and motorcycle content. Mostly Datsun and Yamaha related, but all brands are enjoyed here. Offroad and on, in the garage and out in the world.
This question will probably throw a spanner in the works. I'm in UK. My 79 620 has the J15 engine. It's 1500cc and is the Japanese version of the MGB engine. It has the stock 4-speed gearbox.. I would love to go 5-speed so what is the best option of 5-speed for me to look for? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am twinchrissy on the Ratsun Forum. Cheers from UK.
@@i2edeye the J15 was for the Japanese, Thailand, South Africa and UK markets. Quite rare in UK. Rivergate do a 5-speed conversion for the MGB using a Datsun 280Z or 280ZX 76 to 83 models. Maybe that's the way to go? Or get a complete L20B and 5-speed from the US as I doubt there are any in UK.
@@christophersmith7714 Even L Series are getting hard to find. There are KA24E and DE in the Nissan cargo vans over there. I helped a guy in Scotland with timing chain setup on a DE in one, never asked what the transmission was tho. Not sure if you got the Nissan D21, but they should also have KA's and 5-speeds in the later models.
This is badass. I bought a "new" NOS Idler Arm on the BayE and 2500 miles later it already feels excessively worn. My guess is that this helps move Hef. T Meats on the front a little easier. Im down for one, grind the welds and power coat it black please!
I’m interested in seeing how these hold up in long-term testing. First off, i don’t know how the 3d printed parts will fare, but more importantly, ball and beedle bearings are often not used in situations like this because all of the vibrations while the bearing is stationary can cause the hard bearings to make indents on the softer shaft, which in turn would give the steering a notchy feeling. That being said, i have no idea how hard that shaft is.
You and me both. The 3d printed parts are carbon nylon, should hold up fairly well. I would have like to use tapered roller bearings but they would not fit in the package defined by the stock arm. I can tell you the arms are quite hard, not sure the exact hardness though.
Awesome work/design buddy!!! Are the 3D printed parts done in TPU? I've always wanted to visit the idler arm and see about redesigning it.....I'll scratch that from my list. :) When you get a price, I'd be happy to put some info/links on my site if you'd like. I can do that with anything else you're building, too. :)
What's the chance you can put together and sell a complete, unassembled kit, so I can poweder coat the welded portions before install? Also, awesome work!
Great video. I have not been able to find what the l16 marks are in my haynes manual. That one picture with the teeth is perfect. I have one deep tooth for TDC and 1 to the left of it.
@@i2edeye I have 6 marks and 1 is deeper than rest. I just make a short video. You have the best video on l16. I just cant see if you have 5 or 6 marks on your pulley.
Same here! I was hearing thumping noise every now and then looked underneath and saw I was slinging the rubber. Almost non existent. But yeah, perfect timing! Thanks for the video.
It is the factory cable. I have not hooked it up yet. You can get a rear disc setup from Kiel at KIELBASA INDUSTRIES, his kit has a cable adapter to the factory cable. facebook.com/groups/1610988715837707
@@i2edeye I wound up doing tdc but then oil pump wouldn’t line up with where distributor was. I think it was a little off. I lined up the notch on top and dot to the side, distributor pointing to no1 spark plug, and did the screwdriver thing in spark plug hole where it reached the compression stroke. Also the degree dots on the front, it was pointing to the far left one. Before it was set to the far right side. The Haynes book seems to say it should be on the second one. But I had an old mechanic do stuff a while back. Hasn’t seemed to run the best for a while. Hopefully I did something right.
Having done valve covers on the vq40de before, not sure I'd choose to do all that aggravating work to use some Chinesium parts that cost about the same as OEM. My stock covers still hadn't failed or leaked a drop down any of the tubes as of 190k mi when I pulled them to replace along with gaskets.
For my 620 idk but I have to change my sparkplug like every 2 weeks even my battery doesn't last like a year maybe like 8 months or less I'm trying to see my wireing if something might be wrong got anything tips
You can check for draws by removing the neg battery cable and putting a test light between the cable and battery post. If the light comes on you have a draw, you can disconnect fuses and components until the light goes out, that will be your short. Are the plugs fouled? are they black or oily?
It was relatively cheap, like $20 I think. It did take a while to get here from China lol. The parts catalog was extensive and they were helpful on the phone when ordering.
