Firstly, I would like to say thank you for viewing my channel. Secondly, I would like to provide you with an overview of what this channel is all about. It focuses on uploading videos to help viewers like you. My videos cover various topics such as finance, real estate, business, investments, and more. I sincerely hope that this channel can provide you with the information you are looking for.
I see a lot of people here are not understanding this, but I get it...when using a one man bleeder, air will get in around the threads of the bleeder screw. I use to bleed by myself, just teflon the threads, and don't tighten it in all the way....then you can basically just stick a piece of hose on the nipple, and put the other end submerged in brake fluid. I never understood why they haven't invented a better bleed screw, like something 2 piece with an oring, where air cannot enter
Hi i just installed this exhaust tip but the screws can barely gets screwed in as my pipe is almost the size of this tip and barely slided in. So it appears screws projecting so much outside like i feel to drill holes but then this pipe is rusted as well. Actually even without screws this exhaust tip is so tight. It looks cool fron outside and barely inside bumper arc. Just the only concern is i cant fit in those screws.
If the air bubbles only appear when the bleeder valve is loose then that means there is no air in the brake system so wouldn’t just tightening the bleeder valve just fix the problem?
my car battery went dead while bleeding my brakes. After i finished the brake flush, i jumped the engine but then immediately the check engine light turned on. I went to autozone and code ABS malfunction and traction off showed up on dash. not knowing what to do, i removed the battery, check engine light turned off for now but for how long?
It's not a bad idea to remove the bleeder screw when doing a brake bleed. If it's crusty or damaged at all, replace it. No need to pinch the hose, just make sure the reservoir if full. The system will continue to gravity bleed for the short time the screw is out as well as flush out the bleeder port. It's a bad day when an old bleeder screw shears off. As well I always pressure or gravity bleed. Siphoning or vacuuming seems counter intuitive to air freeing.
The diagnosis is correct but you could do better by replacing the bleeder screw with a new one. I had the same issue with my front driver's side brake bleeder screw. Constant bubbles through the line. I'd let the master cylinder get too low when doing a brake fluid change but thought 'there's no way there's that much air in the system'. Noticed the bleeder screw was a bit loose so just as an experiment, I tried a little Teflon tape around the threads. Bubbles stopped flowing. Considered just leaving it that way with the tape but thought 'these are the brakes, this is serious'. Bought a new bleeder screw and put 2 wraps of Teflon tape just for some insurance. The brake fluid flowed perfectly clear. Finished checking the other brake caliper and have perfect brakes now.
There isn't much fluid in a bike system. As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!
4:06 SILICONE PASTE ON A HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE OR BANJO BOLT.. WOW.. THERES WASHERS TO SEAL THOSE TO STOP LEAKS.. THOSE VALVES WILL HAVE BRAKE FLUID ON THEM. SILICONE CAN MESS WITH THE CALIBER OR BREAKING SYSTEMS JUST GET NEW BRAKE CALIPERS FROM AMAZON NEW A PREMIUM BRAKE HOSES NEW BRAKE CALIPER BANJO BOLTS YOUR GOOD
He was talking about the bleeder screw and bleed hose. Not the brake hose. If there's a leak at a banjo bolt, new washers are required as a minimum. If that doesn't work, new banjo bolt, brake hose or even caliper may be required.
As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled.
That making sure the master is filled ain't no easy walk..you'll get carried away watching the tool go to work just to do it all over again if the master is low enough to suck IN any aire
@@monstaro19There isn't much fluid in a bike system. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!
I have a similar issue when my bleeder valve is completely tightened and there are still air bubbles being pulled into the vinyl tube, but it is not really a problem. First take a look at a bleeder valve when it is removed (either in this video or google it); there are threads, then the hole through the valve, and then the cone that seats into the caliper. The seal between the caliper and the bleeder valve is accomplished by the solid cone of the valve seating in the matching recess of the caliper, not the threads. The reason air bubbles are creeping out is because the vinyl hose connected to the bleeder is creating a vacuum with gravity pulling the fluid down the tube and sucking air through the threads into the bleeder valve hole and then into the vinyl tube. It is not pulling air from the sealed caliper. The bleeder threads may or may not be airtight, these threads are not the seal, the cone is. If the threads are airtight, you will not see the bubbles, but if the threads are not airtight air will be drawn through them and then come out as bubbles into the vinyl line. This video is sealing the threads with silicone, which will block the air from being pulled through the treads and into the tube, but again the threads are not the seal to the caliper the bleeder cone is. Here are a few tests... 1) Move your fluid container above the brake bleeder valve, gravity will no longer be pulling the fluid down and creating a vacuum to pull air through the threads. 2) Similar to the first test, after bleeding your brakes, clear the vinyl line of fluid. Now hook the vinyl tube back up and bleed a little fluid into the hose with the hose pointing up with none of the fluid being drawn downward, then close the bleeder valve. If bubbles are not coming out of the valve you are good (no vacuum is pulling the air through the threads). 3) After bleeding the brakes, and torquing the bleeder valve closed, pump the brakes and see if any fluid is escaping from the bleeder valve, either through the threads or out of where the vinyl tube connects, if no fluid is coming out your bleeder valve is seated and sealed. Note: I am not a professional mechanic, so if you think I am incorrect, please tell me why.
Easiest fix... Don't use vacuum, use pressure. Take that plastic tube and submerse it in clear water bottle partially filled with brake fluid. Open the bleeder and pump the pedal keeping the end of the hose submerged in fluid so it cant suck air back in the system. Pump the pedal until all bubbles are gone, close the bleeder. No vacuum, grease or tape.. There are lots of videos on this method.
@@dehavenmoor9634 engine vacuum is for the brake booster, an assisting device for the pedal. It does not make pressure in the brake lines. The brake pedal does that.
I'm going to be installing brand new disc brake calibers on my 2001 Dodge ram 1500 over the weekend. Brand new bleeder valves, I'm thinking maybe one or two wraps of Teflon tape in the threads to avoid any possible leakage? Any comments?
Best to follow the service guides/instructions. Any I've seen say clean and torqued to spec. Risk of bleed coming loose could result in loss of fluid and brake failure. Unlikely with tape but why risk it?
Bubbles won't appear if pressure bleeding. This happens with those hand vacuum bleed pumps. Also, just place a bit of grease or lube around outer edge of the screw threads before starting the bleed process. It is not necessary to be that precise sealing the threads.
Thanks for the tip! I will probably just stick the silicone grease on the outside though, or just unscrew it a couple turns to apply it. Idk why you gor so much hate in the comments. Many complained that these bubbles don't matter because it's not actually air in the brake line. But duh, you obviously know that (and basically explained as much). The point is that when there are bubbles, it's impossible to be certain the line is 100% purged of air. The others are just saying that it's a "bad idea" without stating why, or that you need to replace it. Super weird, and just shows that they don't understand brakes nor basic physics, ha. I'll never understand why people who clearly have no idea like to publicly demonstrate that they have no idea.
I have the same issue. While bleeding brakes, I cracked my bleeder just enough to see fluid flow, while using the vacuum method. Air was leaking in thru the threads.
It's totally wasted effort (those bubbles don't matter unless let them get sucked into the cylinder) but there's an easier way to accomplish the same thing. Close the bleeder valve in the area around it with brake clean apply silicone grease liberally around the base of the bleeder. The grease will get drawn into the threads, blocking the air.
There's also PTFE pipe dope which is easier to work with, but a little silicone grease or Duco cement around the base of the bleeder would do the trick WITHOUT removing the bleeder screw.
possibly the only good piece of info is the grease on the tube to seal any air that may blead through the screw bleed head and tube. Do not think you would have to of removed the blead screw. just lather it up. otherwise ....wow
W T F......the bleeder was to loose ! You open the "valve" only a little bit until the brake fluid starts running. If you open it to much sure you have air bubbles.
