In this table except of crank, there is clamp screw to tighten the table to post once desire height is set. It also protects the table from moving sidewise and vibrating during the drilling. Where you lost this clamp?
Hi Josh Great design and thanks for sharing. I need to build this for my drill press which is so hard to wind up and down. Mostly because I have a set of drawers attached. Worth a subscription and a like! Regards - James - ONE HANDED MAKER
As a machinist, I'm constantly fatigued from slightly raising my drill press table up and down every few hours, this would save me literally seconds per day! seconds!
Great Idea! I've been trying to build a drill press table for a couple weeks now. Every time I'm about to get started, I stumble on a Bigger - Better - Faster way to build one. I just ordered all the parts last night to extend Both Cranks to the front. Now I see this video. Looks like I have a return to Amazon & a New Order with electric motor coming😅
Ok, so with all you electrical engineers, could someone explain how do you wire this thing up? 1. need motor got it, 2. need power supply, got it, 3 need switch OK, now how do they all connect? and do you cut the plug off the power supply? I'm sure you all understand before ya spend 110 bucks on the "Stuff" you wanna be sure you know how to connect it all. Said motor is now 75 bucks. Thanks
@craigmayhan8620 The switch is a double pole, double throw (DPDT); you use each "throw" (position up vs. down) to change the direction the current flows through the motor. Essentially you're swapping which lead is positive and negative. Here is a schematic diagram from digikey forum.digikey.com/t/polarity-reversal-using-a-dpdt-switch/626. Here is another blog post telling how to use a DPDT switch to change motor direction www.robotroom.com/DPDT-Bidirectional-Motor-Switch.html
@@JoshIlles Yes, the switch on off on reverses the direction of motor, not the issue, what wires go where, went to the listed sites, all Greek to me. 2 wires coming out of motor, (DC ) power supply, converts AC to DC, wires coming out of power supply 2, with a plug. Cut off plug? split wire and connect to ?Where, switch? Motor? alligator clips on end and just test connection?, don't want to burn up a 75 dollar motor. all wires go to switch? (have wired up electric trains, is this the same concept ? Thanks
This is a nice design. But my table is heavy steel and I have a 2 axis mill table on top of that, and a vice on top of that. Very heavy. I haven’t thought of a good design for a stable and functional table. But I would like a motorized up down. My table rotates around the main vertical pillar. It has a lock, but doesn’t seem to work well. So my table is always clocking. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul
Josh: A QUICK CLARIFICATION: What is the deal on the locking mechanism on the side of the drill press column. It appears you do not have one. Is it even necessary given that you attach the lifting mechanism to the drill press table?
Josh, I tried your system for my Delta 70-200 Drill Press and the motor will not lift the Table. The actual motor is not available right now so I went with the next size up and went with a 6 amp power supply. Any thoughts on this ? My Table is 22" sq., by approximately 1.25" high, with the usual cut outs and oil trough. I'm lost, not sure if I need a larger PS, or is the motor just too small for the application ? Sorry to hit you with these questions but I'm ssssoooo lost. Thanks for your time and the video.
Not sure what motor you have. If it's the same style but if it's faster (higher RPM) it might not have enough torque. It's hard/ impossible to say the motor you need based on those specs as the motor power requires depends on your table weight, the friction between the rack and pinion (gear that makes the table go up and down), and your desired speed. That being said, I'm sure you've already checked, but it always helps as a sanity check to make sure the table is unlocked 🤣 You can check if your power supply is not beefy enough if you have a multimeter. Set it to check voltage and put it on the output of the power supply, it should read 12/24V, whatever the power supply is rated at. Then start the motor, if it dips significantly, then the power supply might not be enough. If you check the current on the motor name plate, there should be a rating, it might be named FLA (full load amps), I'd pick a power supply based on that and double the current as head room (ex 5a motor current = 10a power supply) just to be safe. Hope some of this information might help, good luck, I'll answer any questions I can 👍
@@JoshIlles I got the same style you posted but the next one up because the one you posted was not available. I'm starting to think the PS is the problem. Thanks for all of the info, great stuff. I will check the voltage drop and see what I get. The amperage for the motor states 4 amps, my PS is 6 amp... just might be the PS. Thanks for taking time to reply to my question. As I said, " I'm LOST " !
@@JoshIlles I thought I had replied before this to your posting but just incase. First, thanks for the information, just what I needed. I just ordered a 15 amp power supply and it should be here tomorrow, 5/16/23. I'm hoping it will spin the motor at a reasonable speed, if I remember correctly the rpm for the motor was either 160 or 180. Thanks again for the info, thanks for the great posting. It will have taken me even longer to gather the correct parts, at least I had a good starting point. GOD Bless
Hello, Josh and others reading this posting. I was having a problem where the motor that Josh had suggested, wouldn't operate my Drill Press Table. I couldn't find a Power Supply (PS) like the one suggested so I purchased a PS with 50% more Amps than needed, but I wasn't correct in my power needs, what is needed is something two or three times the needed amperage of the motor. I have, at Josh's suggestion, made a few electrical measurements, Power Drop when the motor is under load, and the current draw when running. As it turns out, with the electrical measurements and Josh's suggestions I purchased a 15 amp, 24 volt PS... Drum Roll please... The motor operates my table, happy joy,,, a little slower than I wanted but it will do until this motor decides to say good night. My Table is a 20+ inch Cast iron Unit, heavy is the main underlying pressure that slows this Table down to where I'm thinking MORE TORQUE ! Thanks to Josh Illes and the others who made a suggest. It is working and I am happy with this mod, again thanks Josh.
I tried a Power Supply with three times the amperage and it worked out. It probably could use some more amperage but for now it is working and not getting hot. My granddaughter thinks I'm a wizard setting it up... so thanks for the help !
Combine this with an automatic clamp and it'll be fantastic! I like the idea of the motorized table, even tho I don't need it, but having to reach back there to deal with the clamp anyway kinda kills the allure of the motor for me.
Honestly, I don't ever clamp it and I don't have many issues. If you haven't already, Marius Hornberger just released an awesome video on his drill press upgrades that include an auto clamp. His stuff is next next level.
@@JoshIlles After I posted my comment I thought; hmmm, is there even a need to clamp? The 'rules' say you should, but realistically it shouldn't matter. Thanks, and thanks for telling me about Marius's video.
In case anyone runs into this video years later like me: you can absolutely pull the motor through the back of the saw. Remove saw from power. Unscrew back plate. Unscrew the 2 nuts holding the motor in and disconnect from power. There's also a white plastic clip holdinh the power cable, you'll have to remove as well it's held in by a screw. Once you remove the big top nut the motor will mostly stay in place since it rests on the stud. Change the angle of the blade like 20 degrees and you'll get enough clearance to pull the motor out.
Thanks for the great video. Was able to save my Rigid Table Saw after it started tripping the breaker 5 seconds after turning it on. Just wanted to add to Clif T's helpful comments. I also removed the motor without disassembling the whole saw (removing orange shroud, etc.). I removed the mounting bolt nut, removed the belt tension bolt right beside mounting bolt, then tilted the motor using motor angle adjustment crank on the table saw. Without tilting the motor, the motor would hit the orange frame of the table saw when trying to get it off the mounting bolt. It wiggles loose, then I set it on a board that I placed across the orange shroud base. This allowed me to work on it without removing the AC cord/switch wire. My motor was slightly different than the video. The centrifugal switch was on the opposite side of the motor (near where the fan blade is). The centrifugal switch itself was in good shape, but the centrifugal switch mounting screw had become loose, which I think was causing my problem with the motor.
hi Josh watch your great video but having great difficulty on ordering the correct parts is there any way you have any details on the motor the switch and the couplers where you got them and part numbers Maybe Thank you
Wow, the R4520 is garbage too. It has a blade raising/lowering issue. It’s covered by warranty so you will only be without your saw for 2-8 weeks. Enjoy.
HAAAALLLLP 😂😂😂 please. I’m just a one woman show and I my orders are just so backed up at this point i a stress mess. I have a R4512, gonna try and give as much info as I can hopefully someone can help me diagnose. So it just started making a loud rattling noise starts instantly when turned on continues after start up but instantly stops when I turn it off, and the arbor is still spinning/winding down. And kinda seems like it starts to loose power as well. Also when I felt the motor it felt pretty hot, but can still touch and leave hand there without it even being uncomfortable so not sure if that’s just normal, when this happened I was ripping strips for trellises and had been running steady appx 3-4 min maybe. I also ripped strips for some trim about 10 or 15 min before also steadily for about 5min . Did not smell how ever and I got my head in the back panel and gave a good few sniffs by the motor.(yes it was unplugged) I’m pretty sure it’s something with motor though. Anyways Took off blade still made same noise. Took the belt off still made same noise. Pulled cover off capacitors, made sure they were discharged, and then for the life of me could not and still cannot find my damn multimeter🙄🙄🙄 at first glance they seem fine, I don’t see any bloating/bulging? Not sure what you’d call that. There is nothing leaking from them either. I’m not really sure if they would cause this noise or not, but checking the microfarads is still on my to do once I can find, borrow or buy another meter. I’m just hoping someone might know what causes that kind of noise and point me in the right direction. Also do I have to take the whole damn thing apart to get the motor out? Because I’m not seeing anyway to, without doing that, 😭😭😭 I spent freaking hours getting everything calibrated and fined tuned to basically perfection, I’m ocd as hell about having things like the measuring/angle guides, blades, and fence being correct. If I could afford a cabinet saw I’d have one. One of these days it’ll happen. If failing equipment doesn’t tank my business first. Anyways if it’s not the capacitors only thing I know to do is check the centrifugal switch, then onto the bearing and armature, thing is. Although seems pretty similar I’ve never worked on any electrical motor as new as this one and I’m feeling in intimidated as hell, if it were an old craftsman, I think I’d have less hesitation thinking I’m gonna mess something up. I can try and post Vid of sound somewhere if needed but I need to get this thing back up and running like yesterday
April, so your motor is still spinning when you turn it on? Does it get up to full speed? Does it blow a breaker after a while? Is your arbor bent? Is the power cord in good shape (no Knicks or dents). Can you freely rotate the motor by hand (when off obviously) or does it feel like it's sticking? Do you have it wired for 120V (standard, out-of-the-box in USA) or 240V? I had never worked on/ with motors before this either. I felt really uncomfortable about it, but took it slowly, one step at a time and got it to work.
@@JoshIlles yes still spinning, it seems to start off with power then sounds like it starts to slow or bog down. Hasnt blew a breaker. The arbor seem to be fine, after into belt off I gave it a spin as well as the motor, neither the arbor or motor for that matter feels like they have any resistance. I wired it for 240 when I got it, single dedicated outlet from double pole 20A breaker. I’m just at a loss… and not looking forward taking it apart. And having to redo the setup lol. I spent way to long first time. Mostly because I’m ocd about shit being fine tuned
@@aprilsutherby2068 just guessing, maybe the bearings? I'd change out the caps first since as things go, they are the easiest to fix. I hear ya on not wanting to rip it apart, I did it twice in a week... But good news is the second time is *always* faster. I hope your motor isn't shit since it isn't standard, it will be hard to find a replacement. I assume you did, but when you changed to 240V, you reconfigured the wiring on the motor correct?
@@JoshIlles I kinda thought bearings too, yes I definitely rewired the motor, I went ahead and took a peek in there too just to make sure no cap had fallen off or the that compartment filled up with dust for some reason and I was relatively clean and everything looks fine. And I took the cap off the back of the motor and spin the fan and it’s not I think I can hear a faint Uhh. Like a soft faint dragging noise inside the motor, The pulley for belton the other side of the motor is audible but barely and sounds smooth. Out curiosity I flipped it on and turned the tilt wheel to drop the saw from horizontal more vertical, and it definitely kind of changes the noise that it’s making. And it seems to get a little louder more
This was a great idea. Thank you for doing the leg work on motor specs. Knowing the ballpark is awesome. I would have been guessing just like you. One thing I might suggest is clocking the motor 90 degrees so it's more compact up under the table. That is what I'll be doing on my drill press anyhow.
IMHO... straight up and down gives you the option of tilting the table without interference. I'm in the process of TRYING to get my table motorized and mine is parallel to the column.
@@grevillebalzarini3684 I don't understand what you mean. With this design, mounting the motor to part of the table that rotates, you have no option to tilt the table regardless of how the motor is mounted to it. Clocking 90 here still makes it more compact and costs you no function. To be able to still use your tilt function, you would need to mount the motor to the portion of the table that traverses up and down the column where it doesn't rotate. So, motor and switch on the part the table that traverses up and down the column. And then whatever table you want to have on your press, including the one it came with. That is what I ended up doing and used the drill press table I already built. I don't tilt my table anyhow. I find it cumbersome and not repeatable. I have it locked at dead 90 degrees to the quill and I don't mess with it. I use the Woodpeckers Duax when I need angled holes. Which has the added bonuses of being more repeatable and providing more ease in accuracy.
@@StoneyMeyerhoeffer Thanks for the reply. My motor, the same design as the posting, is all mounted to the Gear Box of the Drill Press Lift System. It is out of the way of the Table be tilted. I'm not sure how to post pictures then I could show you what I have done.
@@grevillebalzarini3684 That is what I said to do. The gear box is the "part of the table that traverses the column" My point is that my comments about clocking the motor were specific to his design.
Awesome idea! I was going to convert a spare standup desk to a drill press table for the same purpose, but this would be way easier. Was there a functional reason to hog out a hole for the switch box in the front as opposed to just mounting it on the bottom or was that just for aesthetics?
I couldn't find the exact 24V 160RPM motor. I was able to find a 100 RPM 12V motor: www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Shaft-Reversible-Electric-Motor/dp/B0765KZ3TJ/ It will be a little slower and will need a 12V power supply instead of a 24V power supply. Generally, you can google "24V gear motor" and look for one at a similar speed with a power greater than or equal to about 80 watts. To find out what size power supply you need, take the power of the motor (80W) and divide it by the voltage (12V) and that will give you the current (6.67A). Add 20% (~8A) and look for a power supply that can output at least that much current.
The motor would look better if it was mounted horizontal under the table instead or vertical, but that doesn't change functionality, just visually lol, otherwise this is a perfectly done project.
@@JoshIlles i was only thinking if you went to full down travel, would it hit the motor or run out of travel on the strip of gear down the side? Either way it wouldn't take much to rotate it lol. Still an awesome idea and execution.
Awesome! You got my subscription. Please post your files, or put them up on ThingVerse. I'm currently raising and lowering with a "drill driver" and a 90 degree adapter, but I like your integrated approach much better.
Added the link to the video description and also available below. I uploaded all the files I could find. Unfortunatley, I couldn't find the template used to route out the gap for the switch box. www.prusaprinters.org/prints/138913-motorized-drill-press-switch-box
