I had a 8'4" distance from my floor to the bottom of the ceiling floor joists and my body height is 6'1" which does not comfortably give me enough room to swing a modern driver length with a swing on a normal swing plane. Of course if I was to make changes, I could probably get by if I was to "choke up" on the grip a few inches or swing on a flatter swing plane - but of course that not ideal. Ultimately as I'll illustrate when I upload a final video, I ended up having a contractor properly remove a 2" x 12" x 20' long floor joists and add cross-joist supports. But if I understand your room length as being only 5 feet in depth it would not be enough room for a launch monitor to properly detect ball speed, nor would the screen be far enough away to be safe. In fact since you need at least 1 foot spacing between the screen and wall, you'd have less than 4 feet depth which wouldn't even be deep enough to make a golf swing or even for a projector to focus correctly. Sorry but I can't imagine a golf simulator working shorter than at least 12 feet deep. Good luck.
@@nathanstrand4132 Okay, while I don't understand the concept of simulator "depth" I get that your 19x20 foot room specs are great and you should be able to make the 9 foot ceiling work (even if you have to choke up a few inches on your driver), assuming the mat you are standing on isn't too deep/tall. Good luck.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos depth means the black tarp of the simulator and the metal goes back 5 ft. My hitting from the ball is 9 ft from ball to screen and 8 feet from launch monitor to ball total 17 feet.
@@nathanstrand4132 Aha, eventually I realized what you meant when you said you have "5ft in depth for the simulator." I think you were implying the 5 ft pertained to the ENCLOSURE and that the black screen has a depth of 5 ft .
beautiful Arabians thank you you answered my question hold their supposed to be before you can write them thank you very much that helped five or six year olds to ride to work with
Indeed and I must upload my "almost completed" golf sim room! I had a contractor build a 4x9 foot head-out, removing 9 feet of two 2x12 joists (replaced in part by additional secondary 2x2 inch "flats"), and basically replacing the two 2x12s with sistered 2x12s on adjacent joints. Going crosswise at the end of the removed 2x12s are sistered (double) cross 2x12 joists supported by hangers, along with one 2x8 inch flat cross beams near each end (since I only need 6 feet above me for my swing area). In my upcoming video I'll show the details...
EXACTLY - ditto what slowed me down for1-2 months! Fortunately the journey was well worth "the cost of poker" - well, as long as you've got a fat wallet, checking account or low credit card balance LOL!
Thanks for this beautiful💜🦄 commentary, visuals Of All breathtaking beauty life birth Of precious beautifully inspiring Arabian horses! 🐴🦄💜💜it's All just so gorgeous!🥰❤️😚🦄🐴🐎🐎🐎🐎
Thanks for your comments. the video is from days when technology was not as great as it is now for making vids. feel free if you are in the area to see our horses. sadly our foundation mare and her mate, (Nadine and Matrix ) have passed on at the age of 30, we have Nadin'es baby Melita and have Melita's baby Mellieha. best Michael
Nice question and one I didn't realize that on some YH's there might be loose, sloppy movements on the bleed screws. Mine certainly is snug when I moderately tighten them. Of course when you loosen them a quarter of a turn or more, indeed they do wobble a bit but that is by design. The brass female fitting is designed to release air as the valves are opened and are cut at a slight angle (like a funnel) so the air will easily be released without having to completely remove the screw. I suppose if you wanted you could replace the with a more professional screw valve if that suits you. Thanks for bringing this up for others who may have ideas to improve this concern of yours.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good to hear, I was worried I might be putting too much torque on them to seal. I've heard people putting teflon tape on the bleed screws. mine work good....I'll keep them as is. Thanks man
Thank you for this video series. I am setting up the same system you have here and you brought up a bunch of things that I didn't consider. This helped me quite a lot. Many thanks!
No, not at all. Actually, the second stage of the compressor has so much pressure, as you saw it is very hot and is hardly bothered by the very small amount of cold water that goes near the cylinder head.
As long as the output hose is also submerged, it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. The royal purple does a pretty good job, unless you set up in your house like I did. Then you find out it has a smell too. The diester(scuba compressor oil) doesn't have any smell to it. It also doesn't carbon up the second stage piston as much. The hydraulic oil is not designed for this application, I have no idea why Yong Heng recommended it.
Excellent points about the oil - many thanks. Regarding the height of the cooling bucket, as long as the pump can push the weight of the water "upstream" (uphill), agreed in that circumstance it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. Yet with a low CFM pump pushing water upwards, gravity has a direct correlation to the height. A "quick and dirty" way to determine the affect with your existing gear is to start the pump when connected to the water source down on the ground. On the pump output tubing that is not connected to the YH, try raising the tube from ground level to 1, 2, and 3 feet - for a small pump you'll be surprised how gravity has a significant affect on the flow. Obviously, we want to have a much flow as possible to move hot water away from the compression head. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.
Thanks for the thought and hopefully newer versions of Dye i5 Googles work better than my two - even going beyond hooking in your index and middle finger and trying to pull back FIRMLY on the blue grip doesn't help much... or even yanking with a pliers or channel locks.
How true and if you are careful to use your YH for light use, it will definitely last longer. But of course for the heavy users of their gear, it's probably worth spending a bit extra and not have to soon buy a second compressor.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Thanks, I'm seriously considering ordering one tomorrow, the big decision is auto shut off or not. I would consider myself a light user. Thanks again...
@@bucsam1660 Wow, I totally forgot about the auto shutoff option and now that I think about it, initially I forgot the reason I didn't go with the auto shutoff option. Now that I look at it, I recall that it doesn't look all that reliable and I didn't want to risk the compressor not starting up, only to find out the circuit no longer works... after an hour of troubleshooting and then another hour to rewire around the circuit. IMO, we really should be watching the compressor from time to time anyway, rather than leave the area only to find the YH was heading for a catastrophe (overheading, loss of oil, leakage, mechanical noises...)
Hey California, I ordered my Yong Heng yesterday from Amazon. Saw a review where the guy uses Royal Purple Compressor oil instead of Hydraulic. Be safe🤠
Not sure why your secondary filter limited your air, I have one and it works fine. I also bought a bigger pump for the water, but I use coolant fluid for a TIG welding torch.
67% humidity is not high. As for the Yong heng air pump ...very good & really fills the airguns I have in a hurry. I bought mine in December 2016 and now is Nov. 29, 2021 ...I have the 220v and still works great.I did use it a lot for filling Tanks but since I mostly shoot here in my back yard I just fill directly in the gun. 2 minutes or less... ready to shoot again. Real value and real high volume air delivery.
I would like to add a one-way valve to my Yong Heng setup. I need a foster fitting on either end as the Yong Heng and my Scott Pack both have quick releases. I noted your one-way valve and need to know where I can purchase the needed items. Very informative video by the way.
Sorry I don’t have any info on your desired fitting and we often seem to require a few tries to get it right. Good luck and happy hunting trails. Michael
Thank you - to adapt Chuck Yeager's famous quote, "There are old paintballers, and there bold paintballers, but there are no old, bold paintballers messing around with their air compressors.
The slower water goes the more heat it absorbs from whatever it's flowing through...of course there's a happy medium. Too slow and it's not getting the heat out fast enough, too fast and it's not absorbing enough geelat before exiting.
I appreciate your point and I certainly don't profess to be an expert in thermodynamics! That said, whether the water flows somewhat faster or slower, the primary determinant is fluid temperature since the *conduction* is essentially a constant. You might try cooling the external head using a fan or design a better heat sink to dissipate the air if you are operating in a warm climate.
Perhaps you have excessive moisture/humidity in the air and maybe the inline YongHeng "cigarette" filter just isn't quite enough to do the job (which is why I went overboard and added two extra filters. If nothing else, be sure to change your cigarette filter often or at least squeeze out all the water between uses.
Good question, yet having researched this 2 years ago... hmm now, what was the reason I didn't go with the obvious answer! (few minutes later...) Aha, I think I have it and it had something to do with corrosion since antifreeze: 1. Is designed to keep fluids from freezing, not overheating 2. Does not have distillation properties Yes, at first sounds weird since antifreeze also helps keep things cool for a car engine (literally and figuratively). So I searched the internet and some of these posts agree with my somewhat vague recollection: www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-and-antifreeze-coolant/ That said, some claim antifreeze works fine, so unless you anticipate heavy and frequent use, use what works best for you. Happy trails, Michael
