Sweet video man, I really appreciate it. A couple quick questions if you don't mind before I get started on my project. 1. I was planning on measuring with a drop cloth with the boat upside down like you did to get a template for the ply wood. If you could do it again would you measure the closer seam (since it was an "extremely" tight fit as you said? 2. I'm going to need to cut my board into 3 sections for storage and transportability. Do you think hinges would work to connect them? Or would something like struts or an H section in between each section horizontally be better for stability? will i have to cut a little extra out of each section for the hinge to work? Or do you think hinges are unnecessary? I was thinking it would provide more stability when stepping around the seam. 3. Since I'm going to have 3 sections, I was thinking glueing the protector foam on with some kind of adhesive (any recommendation?) might be better than the zip ties. Thank you in advance for your wisdom. I really appreciate it!
Plywood does not do well in the water. How is it, two years later? Also, the hard floor will get in more easily if you did not inflate the tubes that much as well as if you did not inflate the floor at all.
I used exterior grade wood, so it is more resistant to damage from water. Generally speaking, this only receives some surface moisture from splashes and is never submerged.
Ive been looking all around,but what's your best recommendation on brand of deep cycle lithium battery for the trolling motor 40lb thrust on this excursion 4
keep in mind, after several uses, your boat will expand a bit. The first board i made for mine turned out to be a bit small after a while. Maybe add an extra 1/4 inch all the way around, giving a total of 1/2 inch, L x W.
Yes you are correct . I got one at tractor supply today . It will not go together . I can lay out rafters , change spark plus. ,carry the wood stove into my house , I am good at directional felling with a chainsaw I sharpened . Tractor supply and China - GO TO HELL .
@@chadrichard6388 best advice I can give is to make sure that channel is spaced properly. Perhaps run a flat head screwdriver through it. I assure you this method still works if the channel is straight. If the flat sheets get damaged in shipping and that channel gets “mashed” this won’t work.
@@dannoreinhardt I got it I had to open up the whole pipe not just the two ends an I had to sit on it lol yes I’m not that big ty I got it yea now 4 more to go ty soo much
instead of cutting the carpet piece by piece and lapping it over, just make one cut all the way around the board, as close as possible, the moulding will cover any imperfections.
It’s an exterior grade plywood. I don’t know how they label that at the stores in Spain , but here they are usually labeled with an X to tell that and then a letter for quality on each side. So for example a BCX would be B quality on one side, lesser C quality on the other side, and X (for Exterior-grade). I think that I used BCX
I used NO staples because I had the same concern. Glue was used to attach the carpet here and the zip ties that I used (to fasten the insulation edge) also help keep that carpet on the board.
Excellent video, Thank you. Helped end an hour of curse-filled frustration for me. I would add one tip I discovered: Once you get one end snapped into place, put a pair of vise-grip pliers on it to hold it together while you snap the rest of the pipe together. Worked well for me.
