Auto mechanics, custom add-ons on my BMW, tips and more. Introducing RC Madness with custom cars, upgrades, epic races tips on durability set-ups, shock tuning for that perfect suspension.
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You need to pin the timing chain tensioner otherwise the cams can lift (the valve cover holds them down) and the chain WILL skip. Also use anaerobic sealant NOT silicon.
Thank you so much for explaining detail by detail very helpful you are a great instructor showing amateurs how to replace high pressure fuel pump. Thanks a lot appreciate it
@melvinpugh4686 I’m glad my videos can help. I will post more as I fix different cars different parts. Any questions feel free to ask and if I can help answer them I sure will.
@RCincorporated I have a 2012 audi a5 and I changed my HPFP about 2 years ago since I changed it my car wont stay running it will 9nly start if I clear the code pp2293 fuel pressure regulator performance 2. So far 3 shops have no idea why it does that . I originally had the engine replaced and when I got my car back it would stall during turning slow like once every 5 months if that but start right back up. Now it requires me to clear the check engine code before it will start I changed both fuel pumps,coil packs ,spark plugs ,camshaft position sensor , battery , throttle body ,MAF SENSOR I got another car because this was just turning into way too much money and circles any ideas I will try becuase it just sits in my garage I drive it a block once a week .
@Joanespik The silicone I used is much better than the cheap crap they try to make you buy just cause Audi says so. The car is still working great on the street and on the track with no issues. That silicone I used will last him longer than the cheap shit car dealers be using. Only experience will give you such knowledge of it not what books say.
@@RCincorporated You can say what you want, but using that is a bad practice only used by a bushleague mechanics. Sorry, someone had to say it. Cams need a very precise tolerances.
@@joanespik The books are not always right. Like i said keep following guidelines that are not proven to be true. If the type you say to use is so good why did it need change with such little miles on the car? Because it’s cheap that’s why. Car manufactures will never use the best stuff on their car unless your spending 100k and up on a car. Otherwise you get the cheapest stuff on it. That’s why they make aftermarket performance parts because original is not always the best.
I’m looking to do this on my 2014 Audi A6 2.0T. Is the procedure the same? I read somewhere that you have to lock the cams in place to replace the VCG, is that true? Or can I follow this video
@@surfside75 Thanks for the tip buddy I will definitely try this. That’s issue with RPM they are not as flexible as the stock so they break. I will soak these bad boys today😎
@RCincorporated yeah, you get it✅️ I do this to all my bashers, and if i take it apart i will spray parts down in a big bag and just let it sit for days until I'mready to build. with Arrma mojave bumpers body mounts etc need wd40! Heck I just wd40 everything at this point🙄🤣
@allahjoseph The car is running perfect no issues what’s so ever yet. I’m going to be changing the breaks on it soon as well. I’ll make a video on when the time comes.
Thank you so much. There is a Tiguan came in at mt Honda shop and I had to do this job to it. I was concerned if I needed any special tool to hold the cams in place before removing the valve cover but after I watched this and did exactly the same. Saved me a lot of time. Job paid 6hr, got it done in 3 👌
did you remove the vacuum fuel pump or the high pressure fuel pump? to get the valve cover back in? i tried tilting it and it’s not going back in with everything lossened…
WickdHDGamer I did not need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. I only loosened it enough to push it back a bit. You don’t need to remove it. Just loosen enough to push back a bit. That will give you enough clearance to tilt the valve cover into place.
The one with the green motor is a Team Associated R10LS. I have one. I don't use it though because I have the newer 1/12s. Those cars are 1/10 and needs bigger tracks. I'm assuming the first car is An RC10L2 with some parts missing. The smaller might be an RC12L with a lot of parts missing. They Belong in the Pan Car category. You need to understand how they are built by seeing newer ones. You can integrate the 3 shocks system of oval pan cars. Rear pods are originally dampened by friction dampers (old system). I'm guesing the previous owner tried to replace them with tie rods. They can be fixed. However, the cost of reviving them with modern parts might cost as much as a new 1/10 pan car kit like an Xray X10 or if you're in the US - CRC Gen X10.
@johnrobert2148 Thanks for all the info. I never owned a pan car before but seen them race. Very interesting on the way they are built. I’ll definitely look into those models you mentioned. I’ll definitely try to revive these, just to have the vintage look as they are originally supposed to be.
WRONG BOLT INSTALLATION SEQUENCE! Basically a helpfull video but the bolt sequence is for removal not for installation. Also, do not use some crap gasket maker from Autozone. Use the proper one as it is not expensive and is readily available from O'Reilly's, part number JV8 (Mahle JV8 Aluminum Silicone Sealant). It's not worth doing this entire job a year later just because your universal sealant started leaking. Correct tightening sequence is from the front of the car start with the 3rd row of 4 bolts (or the 4th row if you count the first 2 bolts as a row). So 3rd row then 2nd then 4th then 1st the 5th and then the 2 bolts in the front. So you're working from the center outwards. Also, the spec is 8 pounds not 7 and then 90 degree.
Hello. Is this right as far as the cams not popping up and throwing the timing off? That's why I keep putting this job off. I was getting ready to take it to a shop
I got a BMW X5 I gutted the catalytic converters and now I got the same problem the exhaust manifolds was warped a little bit could not afford to take it to a machine shop so I sanded it down with a belt sander best I could get it put new gaskets and put it back together still smell exhaust not sure where the smell is coming from
If you gutted the cats you will need new ones to control the smell. I suggest getting high flow cats from eBay for about $80 bucks. There cheap but they do narrow the smell down
Ok, but how do you fix the clicking?? Mine just started doing this noise. Do I just spray the cleaner in there and thats it, or take it apart? You didn't finish the video well...
Hi reneomarcosme219 Sorry about the video I’m not sure why RU-vid shorten the video as it was much longer. You don’t need to take anything apart only the little propeller you see on the video that I removed. This is just to give you better access to the middle shaft that you will see spinning inside. Technically the shaft that you will see spinning inside gathers debris and trash, and it gets stuck on the brushes that surround that shaft. So as long as you can get some electrical cleaner in there and spray the whole shaft that you see, spinning and everything around it that should help eliminate the noise. It’s just a piece of debris, causing that.
@@RCincorporated sorry, but any recommendations on brand of cleaner? I saw different brands with different wording..brand "CRC QD electronic cleaner" also "Berryman Electric Motor Cleaner" and "Akfix A60 Electrical Contact Cleaner"
How did you go about pushing the valve cover tray back down? I have an audi a4 that needs this done and if it is as easy as you are showing it here, I might so if it is. The thing that is deterring me is putting the cover back on and keeping it in time
Dontkillme55 No need to worry about the timing. The timing does not move. When you remove the valve cover, the cams move up slightly. But it’s not enough to where they pop up or anything like that. They simply detain themselves from the other end. Pushing the valve cover back down is simple. You will first need to slide it in from the back end as i show in the video then you gently push down. You’ll notice you’ll be pushing the cams down as well, but it’s not a lot. As soon as you reach some thread, you can let go from pushing and start bolting down in the pattern that I show.
Engine is pretty new, mostly cause by blowby from worn piston ring air pressure destroy the valve cover gasket sometime it will escape at the turbo seal then oil starting to fill the intercooler.
Not all motors are like Japanese cars whit the engine sideways. However Audi A5 models-regardless of door count-feature standard all-wheel-drive. And the engine is facing straight like a V8.
Just so you know when the cover is removed, the cams move up slightly. That’s cause this type of valve cover is actually holding one side of the cams down. However when removing cover remove it slowly, the cams will come up just a bit and that it. Once you put the cover back, push down a bit s you bolt it. Hope this helps.
253tactown6 Yes I only use the Pre cat O2 sensors. The rear ones are useless since I got headers. The smell did leave a lot when I covered the vents in the trunk. There are two vents, one on each side. I covered them with thick sticky tape. That killed the smell big time. Adding the high flow cats helped a lot for when you have the windows down. The better quality the high flow cats, the more the smell will be eliminated.
Thanks appreciate the response👍🏼 I heard those 2 vents on the inside of the trunk the rubber on the backside deteriorates over time and let’s the exhaust smell in to the cabin ect, someone was saying that you shouldn’t cover them or else when you shut your trunk the windows of the car can shatter or in the winter the car fogs up with the windows closed,I’m not sure if that’s true or not
@@FELIPE8226M What’s up bro, as this could be true due to physics I’m sure it has happen in a very rare occasion. It takes a lot of pressure for a window to shatter. Also the seats on a car when they fold down and up, they never really seal completely they’re not airtight. so even covering those vents, the pressure will never actually really build up that high. I had my vents covered already for quite some time, and I have not came across any of those problems. I don’t slam my trunk either when I close it👌. my window doesn’t fog up like that in winter and if it does Nothing a little bit of AC and heat can’t handle. Also, the rear window has defog functions. Hope this helps
So the left side trunk vent the same side as the exhaust is, one of the rubber flaps on the back of it was all the way off so I just taped the whole vent up and it’s much better now when driving
