So I am currently in the process of wiring that badlands remote into a worn VR Evo 12. The difference being I cannot wire mine to the plug the way you did because it uses a microcontroller. So when I wire the receiver directly to the solenoid I keep poped my fuse. I was wondering if I am missing something, or if anyone could give me insight
Great video man! I just got into the Anderson world recently. I’m doing an inverter and jumper cable setup. Got my China crimpers ready lol. Same ones you have. 👍
Would perhaps adding some protection against over discharging the battery be a good idea? I know Milwaukee tools have this to prevent damaging the battery.
I thought the batteries had that circuitry built into them. If they do, they'll shut down on this the same way they do in a tool. Could be wrong though.
I have enough stuff at the battery as it is. I didn't need another connection there. I may do it in the future but the plug works just fine. I also have a 2 USB charge ports that I put in so I don't really need the outlet for anything else.
You guys did a tremendous job, well done! PS: may I add 2 suggestions: to increase the safety of the operation I would have added (1).[bonnets up] of the 3 recovery vehicles and added [safety blankets] to the winch ropes.
This is literally the exact same way I’m planning to do my own. It also makes no sense to me well companies at all the extra disconnecting air fittings onto the manifold it’s just extra bulk and one more place for it to fail. I really like that you added an air chuck to the end of one of the hose. this is something I’m planning on doing.
No changes. It has worked out really well. Just used it a couple weeks ago for comms at a bike race. My battery wasn't charged all the way and I had to switch to backup power. Having it set up like it is, it was as simple as just plugging into the other connector and flipping the switch.
@@IronsideAdventures801 Yeah, being able to select power sources from the switch is one of my favorite features I saw on the video. Definitely doing something similar. Thanks a bunch for sharing.
Have you seen the Thors lightning or M.O.A.B with the display and auto shut off once it reches desired pressure? It stops and checks the pressure while airing up just like an air pump at the gas station. Any thoughts on how to make a system like this?
Great video, thanks! Thinking of doing the same mods to my compressor. How has that relay held up? I am thinking of mounting my compressor in the engine bay and am concerned about heat.
It always surprises me with how optimistic stuff like this is with wire size. Even if technically it can handle the amps people always forget about voltage drop. Good video, I bet that motor is happier with the larger wire. I've got some of those huge 4/0 anderson connectors on my big diy lithium pack for running the winch and inverter. I need to get one of these compressors soon and toy around with it. I tried the a/c compressor into air compressor mod but it was really difficult to filter out all the oil it kept puking up, even with multiple catch cans filled with steel wool and a recirculating drain back into the intake.
if anyone uses the hose and fittings linked in the description i would recommend using the small dremel sandpaper bits to make the area you feed the hose through slightly larger. it is an extremely tight fit if you dont and, while possible to get through, will take a lot of time for each one (upwards of an hour). using the dremel from the bottom, up until the threads start will make feeding the hose through much easier and is still a very tight fit
You could add one to the vehicle side of your wiring system if you wanted. The wiring for this is similar to a winch though and there is rarely any type of fuse on a winch system.
The vast vast majority of jumper cables are copper coated aluminum and I see a lot of people using jumper cables on these. CCA is equivalent to a copper cable 3 or 4 AWG smaller….so using a 4AWG CCA isn’t an improvement to an 8AWG copper cable. And yes I saw that you realized the jumper cable conductor wasn’t actually 4 gauge. Just thought I’d add that in. The cable on the unit has to be pure copper otherwise it would not handle 90 amps any day of the week
This is good information. Thanks for adding it to the discussion. From your information, it sounds like if using good pure copper leads, you could do 8 ga. That also means my 6 ga cables are over sized. I'm good with that too.
M10 is a bolt size. Perhaps it said 10mm2 (squared not the number 2…a tiny 2 up in the corner) indicating conductor cross sectional area in millimetres squared. Essentially the metric version of AWG 10mm2 is 8AWG IIRC. 6 AWG would be better for a 90A compressor. At the very least use a cable with 90 or 105 degree Celsius insulation. Silicone has a 200 degree insulation and therefor would handle the amperage better but would need some kind of sheathing because it’s not very abrasion or cut resistant.
Which battery did you use. I’m building something similar but I’m having trouble finding a battery that will fit. Thanks for any suggestions that you can offer.
These videos on your retrofitting these HF wiresless controllers are great! Tired of all these Chinese winches being the only option out of the box with wireless controllers so this is a huge help to steer me away from those.
This may sound dumb, but could we get a wiring diagram for this? I can’t seem to wrap my head around it. I tried wiring mine up and got nothing, idk what i’m missing
i made one up when i did the compressor mod. its nothing like a normal wiring schematic since i’m not an electrical guru (i made it in excel if that says enough) but it shows exactly where each existing and new wire goes. if you still need it let me know your email and i’ll send it to you
@@bucket909A week after i made that comment my father and I figured out a wiring schematic that works, you’d figure all these people who make these videos would show a quality schematic to help us out. It’s kinda hard to see what he’s doing, and explaining it doesn’t work for everyone.
I really tried to make it as easy to follow as possible. I see that i need to do better. Thanks for the feedback, though. I really do appreciate it. I'll try to keep it in mind with other videos.
I think the only piece of advise I have would be to establish as best you can what you want it to power and build the outlets accordingly. I donhave a video coming up that talks about accessories and how to mix and match with Anderson connectors. You may find something useful in there as well.
I modified the compressor and made a hose set up very similar to the way you showed in your videos - I chanced a few minor things. I made a write up about it on the WranglerTJForum, I saw you had a TJ at the end of the video. I had to mention your channel and how great all your videos are, thank you again.
Hey @bucket909 I'm an IE'r as well. Not a Jeep owner so I don't belong to that forum, but I would love to see your write up. I found a way around the very difficult pressure coupling installation over the hose. I'll post that soon. Can I catch your write up somewhere other than that forum?
@@LadyToyz If you search “wranglertjforum Budget Air Compressor Setup” on google you will find it. If you’re talking about the 4 tire hose setup I found that the hose linked was ever so slightly too large for the brass fittings (I was able to get it through one fitting after over an hour of trying) and found that the small sanding bits for a dremel were the perfect size to make the hose fit through. Still seals perfectly and I sanded down a few extra fittings to keep in the trunk in case one ever fails
@@LadyToyz if you search “wranglertjforum Budget Air Compressor Setup” on google you will find it - no need to be a member to view it. if youre talking about the brass fittings for the air hoses i found that i had to use the small sandpaper bit on a dremel to clearance the ID of the fitting for the hose to fit through - it takes away a very small amount of material but makes feeding the hoses through much easier and doesnt negatively impact the fitting in any way
It runs my cooler fridge just fine. It only pulls 30 watts on eco mode. I often pull it out of the Jeep and bring it inside when we're getting ready for a trip. I just plug it into this and don't have to go find the 110v adapter.
Thanks for sharing, I was a little bit confused at first why you put a buck converter in there because most 12v appliance can operate at 24v also and USB charger will work from anything from 11v to 30 volts and remember that converter has convection losses..if all you need is to us usb charger the run it straight from 18v I will work just fine.
I wanted consistent 12v power so I didn't have to worry about what I was plugging in. For example, my ham radios don't like 18v. I use this to power them when I'm reprogramming. Thanks for watching.
I really don't know what would happen. I don't think it would be catastrophic but probably not a good thing either. I would recommend NOT even making it an option. If you are using the wireless remote, don't even plug in the wired controller. If you are using the wired controller, make sure the switch is off on the wireless remote.
To be honest I clicked thinking somehow you were going to splice off the charging board to add those extra ports. Still that's a cool build. I'm guessing the collection of extra chargers came from acquiring tools that came with them?
Thank you for putting this together, one of the best compressor modification videos ive come across, has inspired me to finish my covid lockdown compressor build i started back in the pandemic.
Thanks for easy down to earth instructions. I’ve done this, but it was so long ago (a year) that I don’t remember tap sizes and drill sizes to do this for my buddy. I found your video, I was just going to skip through and look for the sizes, but I went ahead and watched the whole thing and now I’m sure I can do this for my buddy’s compressor. I like that you took off the heads and used a drill press, much better than what I was going to do. Thank you.
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful. I've done quite a few of these at this point. If you can get the head off (it happens), you can usually rotate the square manifold with a couple wrenches enough to drill and tap the bottom for the pressure switch.
did you purchase anderson brand connectors or a different brand? Are the Anderson ones worth the extra money? Looking to do your compressor modification, air hoses and wiring process - should I go with the 120 amp connectors?
The Andersons were Amazon specials. They seem to work just fine. 120 amp are perfect if you are just wiring for a compressor. The 175 amp allow you to run heavier wire to use for plug in jumper cables if that is in your future plans. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for answering my question.....will the wireless switch work on my Ramsey winch. It just might. I was wondering why you didn't just cut the wires to the wired connector and wire in the wireless wires. . But you did. Thanks for listening to me. Why are you still using the wired controller? I thought you said a pin was corroded. I understand a backup device. Nice job. Thanks.
I believe Ramsay uses a 3 wires system so you should be able to make it work. You could cut the controller wires but I wouldn't really recommend it. I prefer to keep my wired controllers intact as backups. I had a fuse blow in the wireless controller on my truck. Winch would have been dead without the wired controller.
