you should take the return line and put it into a bypass oil filter and filter your return oil down to 2 micron before it returns to the sump. Clean oil = extended engine life.
I’ve done some investigating , i have a 2006 Berlina , 1 owner 220K km ! My mum gave me the car , It’s never been replaced before! & the steering rack end rod was installed by the Holden Factory without the locking ring ! I just replaced them both . Stripped the bolt threads on both taking them out , hope yours wasn’t made on a Friday like mine or you will need to retap the threads , good luck not fuc-ing your steering rack .
I had my V160 rebuilt by Jack's transmissions about 6 years ago, I had to source all the synchro's/countershaft/sleeve's/seals off the black market which was more than the actual transmission service, since I had all the parts they ended up doing mine quickly while the other V160's sat and waited for parts. all in I spent just over $5500 ($2600 for the stage 2 rebuild) not including shipping
Hey thanks mate I cut and edited out alot of uneeded stuff to cut the time down but still made sure to leave in the hole process for any one that would want to try this I normaly like to keep a video around 20 to 30 minutes it was just a long lengthy process I didn't want some one that wanted to do this to miss out on any lost info
Hoping you can help me. I have the 5906v installed on my 1981 cutlass. Im getting a toggle switch off error msg and my doorlocks have stopped auto locking. Ive looked but cant find a toggle switch under the dash. The shop that hooked it up for me is no longer in business. Thanks for any help! Great video!!
Hi the only switch i can think of is the neutral safety switch its a 2 pin plug sometimes there isn't a switch the wires are just wired together thats all I can think of mine hasn't got the switch
have you fix the problem bro? i still have the shakes coming from the steering. i've replaced all the bushing inner& outer tie rods, sway bar links, lower control arm castor rod, wheel hub, rotor disc brake, brake pads. 😢 i still have the shakes on down hill when braking. could it be the steering rack itself. i've found no leak or noise coming from the steering. had wheel alignment's twice already
Hi buddie mine is fixed i replaced everything and still had the shakes until I replaced my tierod ends also if yr tyres are warn out from a bad part or alignment fixing the warn out parts or alignment will still have issues until you renew the tyres hope this helps
went to bob jane t mart for alignment no issues the front wheel tyres is basically new. the only thing i missed as far as i know is the stabiliser on the tie end rod it didn't come with the new one but the old one was broken
could have had a T56 Magnum. I wanted the V160/161 desperately 10-15 years ago but they became overpriced unicorns and they've been abused to death. Good luck!
They are doing awsome work and very diligent on there work plus there focusing on bringing old discontinued parts back to multiple vehicles there very good to deal with grate customer service
Sorry to see this man. I sold my v160 and 6spd diff setup and went gr1000/8.8 for this very reason. I was scared to dump money into it and it be a waste.
I really want a gr1000 with a 9 inch just the conversion rate from aud to usd is about 30k way outta my price limit im a poor man piecing things together bit by bit
Just wait for the next video it gets worse lol and man I really want a grannas t56 magnum but the dollar conversion and having to swap the diff is just money I dont have 20k
im worried about my v160 hey. makes the worst noise when im at low revs in second. sounds like a metal pipe rolling across the bitumen lol it definitely doesnt wine like that though!
Hahahah that would of been funny to see the reaction lol but nah it was just a day trip but we didn't even get out of town before issues started lol we just wanted to get the boat off and slide the wheel carrier up to disperse the weight a little better it was abit sketchy towing on the way to the dam with the road being crap it lifted my cruisers front tyres off the ground and its a 3 tonne vehicle it had way to much tow ball weight but the trip home was perfect towed as it should even over the terrible roads
What was the brake pedal feel like after this? You Running the factor TT 4/2 pots? My ABS isn't working and tried fixing, with no luck. Thinking of deleting it and hopefully that will fix my spongy/airy pedal feel
No I didn't mate didn't know there was such a thing the abs unit is between your master and brake callipers dont think the brake master has any variations if its a abs or not
@@Savage6supra I posted up on a FB page regarding ABS delete kits and one local guy mentioned that there was. Have tracked a non ABS one down and decided I'm going to get it, as he said for best measure, getting one would be better. Only $180 so not gonna break the bank. I've already got braided lines going to the calipers aswell, so looks like all I'll need is new lines from the master to a block between the calipers. Fingers crossed there's a big improvement. Getting a workshop to do it, as I've run out of time and patience... plus, when it comes to brakes I get nervous trusting myself haha
Is your turbo a ball bearing or a journal bearing turbo if its a ball bearing deffently try a oil pressure regulator and check your drain pipe from your turbo for any flow issues size and angle of ur line
@@Savage6supra is a journal bearing now just finish clean the turbo and check drain pipe all going well.worry my car oil pressure to high since idle 2.3bar
2.3 bar is about 33psi that sounds absolutely fine for idle if your turbo oil drain is clear without having any crazy angles for the oil to drain easily there maybe a internal problem with the turbo itself
great video, very informative and straight forward.I just bought a powertune dash also and am going to fit it to a m800 plug and play to an evo 8 time attack car. Question is the dash has a can bus line already made by PowerTune that plugs directly to the back of dash with a connector and the other ends to the Motec are only can hi and low wires. Is it possible to just splice the hi and low can wires from dash into the computer adaptor line which runs out of the ECU and before the Motec UTC can to usb adaptor line? any info is greatly appreciated
You can run the canbus wires from the digital dash stright to your motec m800 and any where on that canbus line you can splice in any other modules think of it as a highway and the cars on it are data packets running on it going to there destination along the can bus
how did you go with what you wanted to do @p&g ? i was thinking i was going to do the same just tap into the m800 utc adapter plug,without twisting wires and making trunk cable.
@@Jessemccrohan No ,havn't tried to plug into UTC yet.Have spliced into can hi and low in eco loom into m800. On an evo its pin 56 and 62. Still havn't got it to run yet but will keep you updated as there is not a lot of info out there.
Yes it did mostly i still have just a touch of smoke on decel but thats due to another issue with my crank case breather tank being a little restrictive
Great video dude . Just ordered an OPR for my 3076r on my RB.. did you leave oil feed restrictor fitting on the top of the turbo fitted and then fit OPR or remove Restructor?
@@Savage6supra cool thanks.. ya as I said I have a Garrett gen 1 3076r and it came with the 1mm or 1.1mm or whatever oil feed fitting it has, I wasn’t sure shud I add the V2 OPR and still Let the restructure control flow and OPR control pressure or let OPR control both, I’ll leave both 😎
Is yours a ball bearing turbo or a journal bearing turbo sorry im not failure with the garret turbos my precision is a ball bearing and the restrictor is really a guide to flow the oil towards the bearings
@@Savage6supra it’s fuel ceramic roller bearing.. turbo smart site is confusing, looking at install instructions and recommendations the V1 says remove all external oil restrictors, V2 says leave all additional oil restrictors in place ?! You’d think they’d recommend the same install since the only v1 and v2 difference I’s no return line ? Odd
Yeah that is confusing but id say leave the turbo as it came from factory and put the regulator on and if you have put a restrictor in like I did take it out if your putting the regulator on and of course monitor your oil pressure to the turbo you want to see around 40psi
nice work! my getrag has a sloppy shifter - not looking forward to figuring out why and how much its going to cost me haha keen to watch the install video on this mate :)
