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Hi @ratchetman1001, We only did a 5-minute test to show how the machine works. Typically, the machine defaults to 20 minutes. When doing an actual service, you want to hold longer to remove moisture. In that instance, the micron decay was higher than we would like-in the 600 range. I hope this answers your question. Please let us know if you have any others ;-)
@@CEASUSA only reason im asking is if you watch nobody doing automotive ac even uses a micron gauge ,except tom lech. i wished you could show a more detailed instruction on auto ac so they could be trained to be better. not just depend on the machine for a proper vacuum in its time frame that u set. thats what they are all missing. i have did vacuum test with a glass chamber. i could put 1oz or 20oz water in it and under vacuum it will usually stall around 3000 microns to 2300aprx. so water even a drop in the system will show this. because the water is like refrigerant so its at saturation until u get that drop of water out. so when and how long it takes depends on the amount being left in the system. on repairs i have had to leave on overnight vacuum to get it dry. but the micron gauge is the tell all for how dry u get the system and then decay rise. i no u are just showing the machine and im sure its quality. but the machine does not make you the expert and everybody who buys them think they are a professional now . dont mean any harm its just what i see when all of them just show that 30min or 1hr vacuum pull . but its just my opinion which may mean nothing cause we all have different views, but maybe put in a side note use a micron gauge in conjunction with these machines. its the bigger channels could help with education. just trying to help.
Never had the ability to deal with degrees Seen the specs on DTNA freightliner specs all in degrees I’ve been doing mine with actual measurements in inches But then again I’m using lasers and a tape Measure
Thank you very much,I'm working on my 2010 crosstour,I replace the starter but is the same,won't crank,do you have a idea what can be the cause?but thank you again,you explained as a professional👍
Thanks a lot for this video and making sure to show every important step! Is there any lubrication needed for any of these parts before installing the new axle or reinstalling the old parts?
Both Blue point and SP tools are made in Taiwan by Hi-Five tools SP is just using there newer model ... but neither are made in the USA and not one is better than the other ..Hi-Five even make the reversable ratchets for Blue point snap on Gearwrench Craftsman SP Jet and like 60 other companies
So my 2014 Civic Si passenger side axle popped out so it was pushed back in but after driving I noticed afterwards it was loose so once I looked at the drive shaft I noticed the set ring looks like it was missing which I don't understand because the axle seemed locked firmly into place prior to it being pulled out accidentally. So my question is: Do I need to replace the ring? Or would I have to replace the entire driveshaft?
We've never had a plug seize up. You don't want to put anti seize in the plug itself, but you want to use a small amount on the threads on an aluminum head.
Good video and explanation on how to this job. Not adding in the torque specs for the axle nut (181ft/lbs) and the lower ball joint (47ft/lbs) kinda make this incomplete and I’ve got to look at comments like this or other people’s videos.
If you do find one of the lines plugged, such as on mine, (2011 Isuzu NRR) the hard line going to the DPF was plugged. What would that indicate ? Does that mean the filter is clogged and the soot just built up into the line ?
Excellent information !!!! I should have no problem completing this job. It's probably my 20th Axle replacement in my life time. But a fool thinks he knows it all, and I am not a fool. Thanks, for your great info!🤗😇
Question I changed the engine in my 2009 subaru forester with a engine from a 2009 subaru outback that ran before I pulled it, but now i have no spark , everything's plugged in Do you know what could be different between engines Both are 2009 and look exactly alike
Splines and keys are machinery components placed at the interface between shafts and hubs of power-transmitting elements. A spline (or key) is usually machined (or attached) onto the shaft of a power-transmitting pair, and the corresponding groove is cut into the hub.
