Seeking Gravity is an ongoing experiment carried out by a cast of pool players. Join the journey with them as they explore and test everything that can assist players on their quest of higher skill and understanding. This show was intentionally designed and structured around you - our viewers. The intentionally assembled cast of players span the spectrum experience, so there will be a player you can directly relate to, whether you are an experienced player or you’ve never picked up a cue before. It is our hope that you join us for this experiment and grow alongside us as we encounter challenges, new perspectives, failure and success.
A custom cue maker told me that basically any cue over 300 dollars will be more than enough in terms of quality. The thousand dollar cues are costly due more to the ring work and and intricate inlays.
We’ve found that “peak” performance can be had in the 600-1500 range (this is ballpark and dependent on brand). The highest performing shafts alone cost well more than $300. But agreed that after that peak performance cost, you’re simply buying an intricate design, exotic materials, or otherwise increase perceived value that will not reflect in higher play potential.
Skill capped tournaments are not new. The Fargorate system just makes it less subjective to rate players. They are good for the game because most players who play in the low level tournaments would not otherwise be playing in tournaments at all and it gives them an achievable goal to improve toward in order to finish in the money.
Good Video overall. I would like to address a couple things that you guys talked about when it comes to UPA. I'm a league operator here in Pierce County. 1. When it comes to rating players, I do most of the rating and while I could rate most local players without having to play them, that is standard practice so to make it consistent, I do it with everyone. I do look at several things when eating a player to make it as accurate as possible. 2. When it comes to safeties, there is actually 2 categories that are tracked. An effective safety tracks your ability to get a ball in hand. Positive safety return is your ability to keep control of the table. I hope this helps to clear things up a little bit and if you have any questions, please feel free to reach out!!
I used to play in so many open tournaments but I agree the fees are getting out of control. Before Fargo, once upon a time it was just on the TD to know a player or ask around to rate A B or C level and then yes, sometimes tier the entry. Miss those days. People are sick of being “tournament sponsors” if it’s not at least for a discounted, cheap lesson. Hence the rise and popularity of capped events. I’ve also observed a newer trend of TDs charging an admin fee but then they also win big in a Calcutta. TDs didn’t used to “clean up”, it was more modest. Can’t we meet in the middle? Lol Other than cheap weekly tourneys, I rarely see an event for under $100. Add another $15-25 for the TD and/or room, and suddenly the weekend hobby is out of reach yet TDs are getting paid more than their day job? It used to be you’d only pay $100+ for the bigger annual events, ones that you traveled for, planned PTO for even - Vegas, big regional events, etc. After almost 30 years of pool, lately I look forward to a weekly $5 event at my local dive bar lol Probably because the people are nice and there’s no sharking or egos because less at stake. Ps, Fargo 565, fwiw ;-)
Level of play from league to league could very well differ from region to region in contrast, but even at the national level, we've noticed that APA seems to be more of a drinking sport than a competitive-minded sport, whereas the other leagues seem to be taken a little bit more seriously, and quite a bit less active drinking while playing. Nothing wrong with either one - it really boils down to what type of game you want to be around and experience. Thanks for watching, Drew, we'll see ya at the next Square Table discussion (coming soon)!
@@seekinggravity Yeah I should have said I was just referring to weekly play as most who play weekly BCA only care about getting their weeks in to play high level events.
I think that once you get over $600-$800 you're paying more for decorative crafting like more intricate inlays, exotic materials for those inlays and other non-functional aspects of the cue. I just priced out McDermott's current COTM (G210C3) which started at $450 with a standard G-Core shaft (already an outstanding shaft), then upgraded to an iProSlim shaft with the carbon fiber core over maple. It's a really good-looking cue which comes standard with a linen wrap and with the upgrade came out to $600 with shipping. I suspect it will play just as well as $3,000 cue.
If you dont mind me asking, what does the Gcore being to the table. Deflection is high like any maple shaft, the core got inserted carbon so its stiff hit, literally feel like using a hard tip every time. What make it outstanding to you and worth $450 while buying an Avid cuetec is $250 or a Cuetec carbon + any cheap $50 butt custom from Joss would give you greater performance? Im just curious about the g core really..
Dont own a joss because of cost, but ive been able to play around with a couple at my local shop, they really do have such a nice feel and sound. I have a pureX HXT that i love but when i upgrade its going to be a joss
A decent player can use any cue to be fair, I recently bought a Cuetec Florian Kohler Avid series, was completely different to my previous cue but after a few games there was no difference
Totally agree. A good player will quickly adjust to anything. Pros will play with whatever company will give them cash as a sponsor. At some point, it’s just wanting a change, or a desire for something that looks pretty.
Good video and interestingly I have the Aramith pro and Aramith red measles and have played with the measles for a while now and just pulled out the Aramith Pro and noticed a slight difference and as your shaft shows the weight is slightly more on the measles which was reflected in the feel I had. I also noticed what you proved is that the Aramith pro gets & keeps more chalk marks & stains than the Aramith measels. And yes one should play what they are going to be playing in a tournament or at their local pool room. Interesting
Predator icon 4-5, cuetec 11.8 carbon with a sniper tip,18.4 weight, balanced 19 from the butt. That's what my journey has brought me to so far. Love the game
*ALL YOU ARE REALLY COMPARING IS SIZE AND WEIGHT. PROFESSIONAL POOL PLAYERS LIKE BUDDY HALL HAVE DENOUNCED THE MEASLE BALLS WHEN THEY CAM OUT. SAYING THE ARAMITH SUPER PRO WITH RED TRIANGLE WAS BEST. YOU DONT EVEN HAVE THIS CUE FOR COMPARISON. YOU SHOULD HAVE DROPPED THE BALLS AND SEE HOW EACH BALL BOUNCES AT A DIFFERENT HEIGHT AND HOW EACH BALL BOUNCES OFF OBJECT BALLS OR ON JUMP SHOTS. MEASURING DOES NOT IDENTIFY ANYTHING FOR PLAYABILITY*
*DEFINITELY AGREE THERE ARE "SELLING MISTAKES" NOT BUYING MISTAKES. EVERY CUE I SOLD, I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND AGAIN, EVEN ON EBAY. WISH I NEVER SOLD THEM. CANNOT FIND THE CUES I HAVE PURCHSED, ALOT OF CUSTOM CUEMAKERS HAVE PASSED ON AND CURRENT MAKERS ARE GROSSLY OVER PRICED*
*NO ONE EXPLAINS HOW TO SELECT A CUE OR CUE DIFFERENCES. JUST ASKING WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST CUE?* I COULDNT STAND THE WAY A SCHON PLAYS. JOSS CUES ALL THE WAY, BETTER THAN ANY CUSTOM CUE I BOUGHT, PLAYABILITY.*
*BIGGEST ITEM PAY ATTENTION TO SELECTING A CUE: THE BUTT DIAMETER. TODAY SOME ARE PENCIL THIN. ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND A BUTT THAT IS 26.0MM OR 26.3MM AT THE "FRONT OF THE WRAP"* PAY ATTENTION TO HOW THE BUTT WRAP TAPERS OR MINIMALLY TAPERS. 2) SHAFT DIAMETER. YEARS AGO WAS 13.5MM, 13.0MM, THEN 12.75MM DUE TO PREDARTOR LD SHAFTS, NOW 12.5MM TO 11.8MM. 3) IN 1990S STILL ABLE WALK IN A STORE AND SAY "I WANT TO BUY A CUE MADE IN USA!" THEY WOULD SHOW YOU: MALI, PALMER, VIKING, MCDERMOTT, MEUCCI. MOST POPULAR STORE MODELS. TODAY ASK THAT AND PROBABLY GET WE HAVE CHINESE MADE CUES.*
Very informative video. I'm old school player from the 1970s and I was able to meet and visit a HOF Ballard Congress inductee, Bert Schrager. He made many custom cues and I was fortunate to buy three Schrager cues from him. Very talented individual with many inlays, linen wraps or simulated leather and all maple shafts. Bert used a filament type of plastic for his joints as to eliminate a bounce or shaft click by not using a metal insert. Bert's original shop was in North Hollywood, CA when I met him. Later years he and his wife Pat, moved to Lake Isabella. Both are now deceased for many years. A truly wonderful man.
I’ve played with straight wood cues for 55 years, no low deflection shafts, bought a carbon fiber from a friend so I knew I would have a warranty, the test when I bought it was a all on the center diamond against the rail, shot off the kitchen line in the center Andra the ball down the rail both ways in two shots so I bought it, tried to play with its can’t control it, it will do way more than I could ever do so it’s in my case, break jump cue came about because I always played with soft tips, couldn’t break any more, the phenolic tip gave me the power back, old age is taking my control away, those 8-9’s come fewer and farther apart, I play with a 15oz 63 in custom cue, plated a lot snooker years ago with a 12oz 60in 10mm tip, I learned to use a crutch early as when I started playing snooker as I was 5’2” and 75lbs when I got my first drivers license
I believe carbon fiber is the material of choice selected due to its high rigidity and low weight characters. So, by nature it's going to be "low deflection." With that said, all manufacturers have their own recipe and design methods, giving them all a different feel to the hit and slight variances in play. I believe I remember hearing commentary of a recent match Josh Filler was in. He has been going back and fourth from wood to carbon, but the current versions of his carbon shafts are custom made for him intentionally with more deflection than the normal Revo shafts. Quite interesting.
Great video. I've owned many cues including Southwest, Schon and more. I'm thinking of going back to a more simple Joss in the 600. range with a medium tip.
I knew a man when I was in my 20's he would ask the bar for a mop or broom stick. He would unscrew the handle and play with it. I watched him win game after game and run the table a lot.
It's so cool when you can go to a store with 1,000 cues and try to play with them. When you live in a city with 100 thousand people, you can only go to a European or American manufacturer's website, choose a cue and wait 3 months for it to arrive and hope that it won't be crooked, it won't be broken, it won't be scratched, and there will be a tool with which you can adjust it to your own feelings
Ha ha what nonsense and lies for millions dollars company to make money what guide the cue is not important any cue could play and win Efren win a world championship with a 10 dollars cue why not choose a cue with out a tip no body talks about tips because it cheap the tip of your cue is the most important thing in pool
I've recently started playing quite a bit recently and have various shaped eyeglasses and/or eyeglasses specifically ground for computer work. I think I'm going to get some of these. My Rx lenses can get pretty expensive depending on the features/material due to astigmatism and amount of correction needed. I think a mirrored pair would be pretty cool.
I have always played English 8 ball and was in many pub pool teams. I had to get good because sometimes I was homeless, and the pub was warm and dry. Later, when I became a Christian, I started helping homeless people, and there was this one guy who came into the centre, and he asked me for a game. Later he told me about a local pool hall and I went along to it and we met another friend of his. He said, "Do you play 9 ball? I had never heard of 9 ball. But as soon as I started playing, I was hooked, I even bought a couple of cues off him, a preditor playing cue and a Lucassi jump cue. I only play 9 ball now.
My personal opinion, the most underrated carbon fiber low squirt shaft on the market is the Jacoby BlaCk V4.0 (pick your favorite soft tip) which blows everything else I’ve extensively played with. But, totally my opinion. I love their 19” pro taper and the Kamui Clear Black Soft tip that comes standard on the shaft wouldn’t have been my first choice (I like HOW TITAN soft tips better) but I’ll be damned it plays perfect as is! I play the BlaCk V4.0 with my Predator 3.1 Throne uni-loc joint and with my Jacoby HB5 radial joint and both feel incredible which makes it the best shaft on the market for me
I have the Jacoby black on my Reeves custom cue, and I also play with a pechauer p18r with the rogue shaft and jade medium tip. I feel that they play similar, but it depends on the table where I play. The Jacoby will play great on one table, and the rogue will play better on another. Two places I play have predator cloth, and the other has simonis.
If you're not playing a worsted cloth in today's game, you aren't playing pool! 2005, the year I last came across a traditional felted table. If that's what you're playing, does it matter what cue ball you're using?! ;)
