Amazing video. I never understood why when the igniter was glowing it could potentially be bad. But this explains it draws enough power that runs through the bimetallic strip to bend it. If igniter is weak and it doesn't draw enough the bimetallic strip doesn't bend.
This happened to us with an LG 8 years old. Problem is the actual refrigerator is set up nice, rollers on trays doors open nice shelves all adjust up and down to whatever height. Yes was warrantied from LG, finally found guy in Bennington, Vermont who would come over and diagnose. After 2 weeks and bought a new Whirlpool side by side just to get by $2000 with $350 in lost food. LG out in garage for almost a year to prove itself. Then we brought it back in and have been using it ever since. The Whirlpool side by side has issue with electric door from freezer/refrigerator wall that controls temperature in refrigerator side not working temperature fluctuating in the High 40s. Called Whirlpool they can't find repairman to do warranty work. Plus the interior of the Whirlpool sucks, can't adjust shelves, and sliders are friction style. And when this LG compressor dies there will be another one installed. The technician told me to try and find a refrigerator with the large cooling grate on the back said these were the most efficient and reliable. One more comment, I hear no one speak of Danfoss compressor? I have read where they are one of the best on market unless they were bought out. When the technician from Colorado brought out the temperature probe checking temperatures , did anyone else notice how high the temperatures were? As an aside after that experience losing that much meat I bought what I thought were temperature alarms for RVs. Still using them but they have no alarms. SensorPush Company is the brand of sensor you want, it attaches to your phone for real time temperature monitoring. But these are expensive. LG in kitchen small freezer in closet and Whirlpool and old top and bottom given to us from neighbors plus large chest style freezer also in garage. So 8 sensors at $75, control base at $99 so have to sneak up on that purchase.
you are right but this is not normal i wonder why we are at this point a fridge is old technologie we the stupid customer are paying for cheaper parts and bad engineering
Hello, I have a LG fridge with an LG compressor. I bought an embraco 1/4 hp compressor to replace the old one. What else do I need to buy or do to it in order for it to work? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
had code 22 but the board was no good. Test for 200vac at 2 pins to the right on con1 for compressor. Unplugged connector/ after pressing test button once. It ramps up to 118vac not enough. Also no led indicator lights on board. If you have a 22 you need to take extra steps to rule out pcb board. Hope it`s not the comp. but not having 200vac is a problem lol /was that a map torch ?Where did you buy that torch reflector?
Most repair companies I know (including mine) will not do this and will just replace the entire 1000$ board unfortunately. Most people with the drive and knowledge to troubleshoot transistors and diodes and shit are not in the repair sector.
The failure you repaired on your stove is exactly the same recent failure on mine. I'm not an electrical engineer (ME, actually) but watching your video was all I needed to do my own repair. After testing as you showed to verify the failed components I bought replacements (IGBT, bridge rectifier, fuse and heatsink grease) at Digikey (all in stock) for a fraction of the cost for replacement parts available through just about any online parts distributor (one wanted $106 for just the fuse!). Thank you so much!
Those two wires have direct 12 volt they do not shut off the relay that you are using for the compressor🙄😔 You still need to add FL-3FF-S-Z relay module 5v. to the signal Orange wire that turns on the fan coming out by the condenser fan or PCB, Blk & Red=12v...
As a refrigerator repair man I see some of what you did. The inverter board is still in the circut because it controls the temp, defrost, lights, etc. I would think the inverter logic would fail by not having the LG compressor hooked to it. It looked like you jumpered to another place on the inverter to fix this? Explain?
Great video...I have a kitchen aid induction double oven .. Wh we turn on the burners they make a loud buzzing type noise on all burners . Do you know what's causing this?
I had exactly the same failure and did the same repair. This repair should only be done by someone with the tools and experience for small surface-mount parts. Even then it's a bit tedious. I used the good board as a reference and replaced four surface-mount transistors, nine resistors and a driver IC. Here is a list of the parts I used. IGBT 497-5741-ND STGW39NC60VD Bridge Rectifier GSIB2560-E3/45GI-ND, GSIB2560-E3/45 Fuse Ceramic 25A F4829-ND, 0314025.MXP PNP Transistor 1727-PMBT2907A-QRCT-ND, PMBT2907A-QR, SOT23 NPN Transistor MMBT4401TPMSCT-ND, MMBT4401-TP SOT23 Gate Driver Half-Bridge 497-14773-5-ND, L6388ED 8SO Resistor 15 OHM P15.0CCT-ND, ERJ-6ENF15R0V, 1/8W 0805 Resistor 39 OHM P39ADCT-ND, ERJ-P06J390V, 1/2W 0805 Resistor 10 OHM P10.0CCT-ND, ERJ-6ENF10R0V, 1/8W 0805 Resistor 47 OHM P47ACT-ND, ERJ-6GEYJ470V, 1/8W 0805 Resistor 10K OHM P10KGCT-ND, ERJ-3GEYJ103V, 1/10W 0603 (did not replace) There are some diodes but these seemed to be fine
Other than the power IGBT's and the rectifier , how did you know to replace the other items assuming they visually checked fine? I have the 36", 5 burner model. I had the large middle and both RHS burners go out. Replaced the IGBT's and bridges in two of the 3 boards and got the unit running, but when placing a pot on the large middle burner it error's codes C81 on the large, and bottom RHS burners and F63 on the top RHS burner after 10 sec. The middle burner will provide heat before it errors things out. I can't locate what these error codes even mean. The two smaller burners are taken out when the error codes display. If I power the unit off at the stove and power back on everything is back to normal but then errors out every time using the large burner only. This one will be challenging to diagnose
Nice, mine is the same. I have already replaced about the same amount, and some are sooo tiny. Still looking for yet another one thats bad so my search continues...
I am a LG tech and I would love to know how you did this. This is pretty amazing. Our control boards sends variable voltage to the compressor I wonder how did he get it to send 120 volts continuously and how does it correlate with the sensors
Based on the video, they are using a relay driven by condenser fan output to turn the compressor on. The original variable voltage output is not used. Condenser fan output should be at constant voltage and on whenever compressor should be on, so perfect for operating a relay.
@@akomakomakom Just had my 2nd linear compressor failure (in 7 years) and replaced. I wish this was an option for me. I guess I'll wait 3-4 years until this 3rd one fails and see if someone has a non-linear compressor retrofit option.
Thank you a thousand times over. My oven was used to heat the house for winter and now, I understand what happened to the safety valve. The heat affected that plate.
Can you share what wires you need to splice together. Have the same problem and I live in southeast Alaska so no repair men around here, it would cost more to fly a repair guy here then to buy new but the fridge and freezer work fine I could do without the light.
Absolutely over engineered and if the internal components, even 1 fails, you’re looking at a sealed system repair. Frigidaire is also using this method on their dual evaporator models and the failure rate on the FREEZER outlet in my opinion is high!!
I have a leaking oven safety valve on my frigidaire stove. The oven and and all the other burners work fine The problem is the safety valve does not shit off completely ss i smell gas continuously until i close the main gas supply valve. Can this valve be repaired or I have to replace it.
Great vid thanks. So we recently had an extremely loud boom happen in our oven including a basketball sized fire ball come out the door as it blew open a few inches. So we changed the ignitor and it works fine, but shouldn't we change the fuel valve also? The oven is 10 years old G.E. in very good shape except for this issue. If the ignitor was provided marginally correct current (3.4-ish Amps) to open the fuel valve but not ignite the oven burners this is a SERIOUS problem. There was apparently a lot of gas collecting inside the oven but there was no smell. I checked around the Web, and other than a "small" boom with a degrading ignitor no one has witnessed this near-violent boom we did. It literally rocked the entire house. I plan on reporting the issue to the consumer safety board as this could've been way more serious if someone was standing by the door or even worse looking at the viewing window to check if the oven was working.
I have an LG GS73SDD 2019 Also with a malfunction linear compressor. I can buy a new one for 250USD and get it installed but the LG morons say that I have to upgrade my software and I don't have that programmer. The compressor I have is a FLB075LANA and must be replaced by a FLS075LANA, I assume the S stand for the modified parts that fail typical for the FLB075 compressor. I assume that the FLS075 is mechanically and electrically the same and these compressors don't interface directly with the controller. So why the hell want LG force me to make extra costs for and upgrade. Does anyone know the reason for that software upgrade or is it just and other scam of LG.
@@ApplianceRepairinColorado Thanks for your response, i appreciate it. But how can software cause mechanical failure? I assume that the coil of these linear motors are AC activated to make the inside piston move alternating within the magnetic field. I do understand that there are maximum frequencies and currents that may limit the capabilities of this linear motor, but I guess within a certain margin these motors don't differ that much, isn't it? or are they that sensitive?
I would flush the system with nitrogen before soldring it together so it gets no residue from the inside . Then vacuum and fill. But i don't know much about fridge circuits. I build HVAC