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Well, I messed up. I could not get the handle in with that metal piece. I had to grind and grind to get it to fit into my 12 pound sledge. Got it from Home depot. The instructions did not say anything about that metal piece and the drawing pictures did not show it being used. It was difficult enough beating it into place with my 5 pounds hammer to get it stuck and into the right position. It came with the puddy and I pressed it into the underside and then put it upright. I guess I will see if it comes out with the epoxy they supplied. Why would you put that on the handle and then no statement or picture of it being used? Great video and too late. Wish I would of thought about this yesterday morning before I did it. It better be some super duper epoxy to withstand the force of 12 pounds. duh. thanks. 🙄
I looked at the comments and saw that a lot of people asked about removing the old ferrule. I used a side grinder with a cut-off blade to slice the ferrule lengthwise and cut the retaining screw then a claw hammer to pry the ferrule off.
Visited your website. Why don't you, (and most other handle companies) put the eye sizes and shapes and wood grades in your catalog? It was helpful that you gave hammer head weight limitations. Thanks for putting sizes in the description above, but shape is important too. None of the big box stores have hammer handles near me so there is a lot of consumer guess work for mail ordering handles. I have an odd 36oz brick hammer with a 0.57x1.13 horse track oval that I think to modify a 14" claw hammer handle rated for 24oz, but the grain seems perpendicular, flat to the blow instead of delivering a blow with the grain. Would you do a video of rejected handles? Question about your video above, should a fitting wedge wood or steel ever be installed parallel to the grain to avoid splitting?
Thank you for your comment. In answer to your question, we produce about 1200 different types of handles. Roughly 400 of which are variations on hammer handles. The reason the eye sizes aren't listed is because every tool manufacturer uses a slightly different size. In the digital age, we are able to have customers take photos of what they need so we can supply the correct handle. We don't want there to be guesswork involved. If you order a handle you need to get that in your tool. You don't have time to mess with things being incorrect. In regard to the video for rejected handles, we do have a video called "Picking your Handle 101" on this youtube page. I would recommend that as well. As for the wedging, we generally install the steel wedges cross grain and the wooden wedge with the grain. If you have any further questions or if we can be of further assistance to you please feel free to email us at sales@bowmanhandlesinc.com or give us a call at 1.800.736.0390. We would love to help you find the handle you need. Again thank you for your comment and for visiting our website.
@@bowmanhandlesinc.7140 thank you for answering and giving detail on wedges and grain. I'm surprised to see that some manufacturers are turning handles without regard to grain or twist, this is just poor training and supervision, but the still slap Finest American Hickory on the label. I'll urge you to give eye sizes and shapes in your catalog, for a leg up on your competition.
I'll take you up on your request for video content, Show us how to install a bent razorback handle. Show one where you would choose to trim or modify the inserted end, because either too long or wood would break in the shaft. Are there other ways to prepare or treat an insertion end such that it bends with the shaft? does one use water or oil? Thank you.
I have never seen a shovel head that was so arched it would break a bent razorback handle, however I guess it could happen. When we bend our shovels we put them in a heated water bath and bend them that way. That may be difficult to do without extra effort. As far as trimming goes I would recommend trimming back and cutting a 45 degree angle on the lower half of the curvature of the handle. I apologize for just seeing your message but I will try to make a video for you soon.
Well you glossed over the main part?? I assume your handles aren't pre drilled... so what size hole? How deep? My tang isn't round so should I drill 2 smaller holes side by side to simulate the oval shape or should I just by another brand that is pre drilled like all the other videos show?
I cant say whether it's right or wrong,but I drill a hole just over 2" deep and go with a single hole the smallest diameter of the shank you'll be inserting into the handle. I also use an epoxy for extra piece of mind liberally applied in the hole.
So you typically want to install the handle perpendicular with the head of the shovel. Some handles will have a taper that is cut to show the top/bottom of the handle. However, some handles, like straight handles, will not, so you want the grain of the handle to be parallel with the head. You will also want to pay attention to the natural bow of the handle. You want the arch of the handle to be facing upward to allow for more downforce. This is more common in rakes and hoes than shovels but could still affect straight shovels.
We use Hardman part A and B two part epoxy for when I am pouring a lot of handles. It sets up very quickly and is insanely strong. It does get very very hot though due to the exothermic reaction to be aware of that if you decide to use that over our regular 2 part epoxy kit.
So, I wish I could say the answer was yes...but honestly removing broken fiberglass handles is the bane of my existence. My strategy is to take a 3 to 5/16" inch drill bit and drill a bunch of small holes through what's stuck in the head. Then I put the head in a vice and take a steel punch and hammer way at bits at a time to get it to come out. -Colyn
@@craythebman5812 That is what I used to get my old rotten rock hard wood handle out with a drill. Just drill drill drill and it falls out. If it has pieces stuck or you can't get out., fiberglass burns very well and smokey. 🙂 pour some gas in the hole and burn it out. add some drops of oil as it burns. it will burn too. oh and do it outside. it stinks and smoke. 🙂
Depending on where you are located. We can probably give you a name of a store that carries our product line. Just give us a call or drop us an email. Thank you!
I have an Ames handle and the metal clip is angled the other way from this video. Is it manufactured wrong or is that clip supposed to bend around when you pound the handle into the tool? As it is, it is angled to make it difficult to install handle into the tool but seems like it would be easy to remove from the tool. The notch in the fiberglass for the clip does not allow it to be flipped the other way. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'm wondering if this handle needs to go back to Home Depot?
I love it. That was my problem yesterday. I tried every which way I could and it would not fit into the 12 pound sledge hammer no matter what. I had to grind so much of the fiberglass to get it to fit in it would have been pencil thin with that spring loaded clip. Mine also was from homedepot. The instructions said nothing about the clip and the drawings did not show the clip either. It just showed the neck of the handle up in the sledge. NO mention of the clip anywhere. So, it's been 2 years since you posted this. What did you do and what happened? Thanks.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv I ended up just putting the fiberglass end of the handle into the sledge hammer hole with the clip resisting the insertion. I kept pounding it in until the fiberglass end was almost coming out of the other end of the hole. Filled with the resin and seems to have held pretty well. I haven't used it extensively since, but did just go out and wack some old tree stumps a number of times to see what happened so I could let you know. Didn't see any evidence afterward of it coming apart. After watching some other RU-vid videos about this, I'm thinking Ames was intending for you to put the sledge hammer over the opposite end from the fiberglass end and slide the hammer all the way down till the fiberglass end was just pulled through and below the hammer hole. That way the clip would have worked better. The problem for me was the hammer hole was not big enough to fit over the flared end that was opposite the fiberglass end.
@@sizzelot So, you did not use that spring loaded clip? and it works just fine? I'm not drilling out that new epoxy I just put in. That stuff is very expensive, wow. I could not figure out how to get it in and go all the way as I did without it. I tried putting the handle in all the way and beating the clip in from the top, but no matter what I did, I could not get it to spread open to put it in. I didn't see that in the video. As I said earlier, there was no instructions on what to do with the clip and nothing in the picture either. would not go in from underneath no how no way. That was even more impossible. Guess it's a magic trick. Thanks sizzelot. Sir sizzelot. 😁 It will have to do until it breaks or something.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv Yes, I did use the clip and just kept pounding the handle into the hammer until it was in far enough. One good thing about the way the clip is angled is that when I swing the hammer overhead I am pretty confident it will never break free and slide back down the handle and hit me in the head or hands.
@@sizzelot I have no idea how you and he or anyone got that clip in once the handle was in the hammer head. I tried to pry it in and wedge it in and hit it in and I could not get it to go for anything. If mine hits me in the head, there is a chance that the hammer head will break but I will be fine. I will say, what was that? Thanks. 😂
This is Michele’s husband! Bought the handle and had no clue of how to put it on! Your tutorial was excellent and made it so much easier than I thought it was going to be! Thank you!
Thanks for a very helpful video! I am replacing a metal grip on my snow shovel. I need to remove the remaining broken piece and find a replacement D-handle.
Good video BUT where can I buy one of your products? Need a socket hoe handle. Went to your website and cannot find anything other than your catalog. No mention of how/where to buy product.
A tang is basically the butt of the metal tool. If you look at a knife with a wooden handle, the tang is the part in the handle. If the tang goes all the way to the bottom of the handle, it's a 'full tang'. So on a heavy rake head, the tang is the part that goes into the handle.
tang is the metal pointy thang that comes together on the back of the bow, of the rake! Actually, the metal end that goes into the handle. =) A lot of folks even call the teeth on the rake tangs, and the sharp point on the top of a file where you drive on a piece of broom handle or tree limb for the handle.
@@douglasflores1462 My metal clip would not fit no how no way. I did so much grinding down to get it to slide in so the top of the handle would be flush with the top of my 12 pound sledge. I guess I will find out if I needed it or not. There was no mention of the clip or the drawings in the instructions showing that clip that came with my handle from homedepot. why would you put something in with a part and no explanation or pictures of it???
The N95 mask is NOT for VAPORS. You need a respirator with a filter for vapors. The filters are color-coded for the dust, vapors, and contaminants that you are exposed to.
I took black iron pipe and formed the end, inserted it into a sledgehammer head and welded them together. That sledgehammer has laid down thousands of hard blows on concrete and hangs on my shop wall ready for use, I retired eight years ago. The problem with Fiberglass? Miss once or twice, buy a new one or a new handle.
@@bowmanhandlesinc.7140 The home depot handle came with 2 packets of epoxy. It was more than enough and when I mixed it, it was very runny, so I just folded up the cardboard I was mixing it on and poured it in. It was very simple. I mixed it thoroughly and it was runny.
This seems like useful information but between the strange audio channel stuff and the dancing logo in the corner, I can't pay attention to the content of the video. :(
We do not keep a price list on our website. However, if you would like to give us a call we'll be happy to go over pricing with you - 1.800.736.0390. Thanks for your support!
