Metal in Motion Shop is a how-to video channel, where you can learn to repair your own equipment. From small engines to ATV's and UTV's, we focus on engine, equipment, and electrical problems.
I have a CubCadet LT46, bought last season, used this spring, 14 hours on the damn thing. When I drop my blade she cuts out. Everything else is working. Cut in reverse light came on when activated, seat sensor still working. Someone please tell us if the blade drop safety switch (PTO switch) is integral and included in this ignition switch? Does the blade clutch get juice through this switch? The only video I can find only shows the models with the separate PTO switch. Every other video I watched with out the separate PTO switch, including this one, only discusses the reverse function in the ignition switch. I pulled the ignition switch on this model anyway, and inspected it. It looks very clean. I didn't bother going through the meter test, everything else was working. The plug felt pretty tight when pulled. Since everything looked real clean and I didn't have any contact cleaner kicking around, I reinstalled the switch, fired her up, dropped the blade and off we went!! So, I really have no clue what the problem was. I just have to attribute it to a bad or dirty connection in the switch?
I had to remove the flywheel key and inverted cup to get access to the ignition module to check the air gap: there wasn't one! It was in contact with the flywheel -- so no spark, no start! Maybe the previous owner would have seen this if it weren't so difficult to access. When I've made the adjustment I've been wondering how to torque back the flywheel nut, maybe use blocks to stop the blades turning. But you don't bother, just use an impact driver. Any comment anyone? Thanks.
Finally! You answered my question, 20+ videos later. Great job explaining the best location to pry up on the fly wheel! Good Job! 12 yrs. and you’re still helping solve problems!👍👍👍
It's so funny that I'm coming across this now😂 I'm working on my stepdad's exmark vantage and it keeps popping fuses for the PTO, so his dumbass was putting 15-20 amp fuses to make it last longer I guess before it blew the fuse once again smh lol, the inside of the PTO switch was melted on the hot side for the PTO wire smh, fucking thing caught fire last year and all the wiring is burnt up but I'm currently working on rewiring the whole POS smh
I hope mine is like this. But I tried spraying starter fluid into the sparkplug hole, put back the SP and it didn’t even sputter. I know I have spark from coil and at Spark Plug. Is there a reason why the spray nozzle does not go into the cylinder head chamber deeper? I moved the piston with the pull string thinking the tip of the nozzle would go deeper but it doesn’t.
hello, how can I contact you, I would like to know what parts you used to tune the mustang, I plan to build it, best regards and thanks for your answer
First before anything WASH ME. The big trick is trying to watch for spark or even the light while cranking the handle. I guess you could buy a $400 dollar camera. Or have your lazy wife get off the couch and tear herself away from Teen Mom 2 or 90 Day Fiance The Reunion, or whatever garbage she's watching and watch for spark. Don't get ME started.
I replaced a switch that had the headlight switch with one that had the reverse override position and it blew the main fuse on the mower. Does that even make sense? After two fuses I put the other switch back on it and it doesn't blow the fuse. I tested the switch that blew the fuses and in the on position it only connects B to A1. In my mind it would have to be connecting B to something else like M or G in order for that to happen. The switch with the headlight position works and doesn't blow the fuse. Am I missing something here?
My 6.75 Briggs starts perfectly first time every time and runs fine. But when hot, it will not start. Could this be the coil? Maybe gap too small or too big?
Your presentation would've been complete had you demonstrated how to multimeter the coil - if only to "prove out" the difference in readings between good & no good..
A closer examination of the "kill switch" and how it grounds when you release the handle would help. Regardless I'm going to get to the bottom of this mess! Otherwise okay show.🎉
Thank you for making such a great, informative video! Based on your video I was able to diagnose and repair my father's mower. Same issue as here... bad ignition coil. Followed your instructions to the letter and it runs perfectly now.