This channel is all about projects, installs, and will showcase vehicles of all types. I like to test things, either on the dyno or at the track. I also enjoy fabricating things when feasible. My old account is Z28FTMFW, but have been unable to get back into that one.
@@briankissel7661 Gen 6 Camaros have an traditional OHV LT1 V8 engine. This car had a larger than factory camshaft with none of the VVT/AFM stuff. Obviously the exhaust had been modified as well.
@@robertmacpeek424 🤣🤣🤣 it would have been in his best interest. I'm actually impressed by how straight it drove down the road. The cab and front clip seemed unphased.
Just rebuilt a 98 ls1 for my dad to put in 2000 silverado rcsb 2wd, we did a dingleberry hone job, swapped to a 706 head, btr truck norris cam, tbss intake, adapter to stock 3 bolt dbc throttle body, im sure that hinders the peak numbers a bit, but honestly for what i thought my dad would like, thats the combination i put together for him, and hes probably a little rusty driving something with power, but with a somewhat upgraded 4l60e (shift kit, and corvette servo) a budget summit brand 2800-3200 stall converter, 3.73 tru trac posi, itll come on hard, and thats more than he wanted, no idea on hp, in my experience from what ive felt with my big blocks, id say its in the 460-480 crank hp range, with a great midrange, and cruises like it doesn't have a cam....thats a win in my book....if you chase a dyno number, youll always end up with a broken heart, dyno is a tool, nothing more.
@@shadowopsairman1583 relay and fuses checked, also made sure I have power going to the pump itself. I'll likely just unbolt the bed and slide it back.
@@bluecollarhotrods9781I did the same early last year so I could go to Hartwell Georgia to get my German Shorthair Pointer Thunder after Thor passed away. I'm hoping after I drove the truck a bit my I/Ms for CAT, O2 and evap have reset to ready.
@@bluecollarhotrods9781 the stock units and maybe the aftermarket will be determined by wheelbase for which unit to get, my truck is the 143.5 unit. I think the wheelbase is in the glovebox on the rpo code sticker
Secure those things man, I have some iffy issue with mine and its right after startup while cold, I hear a continuous clunk while the engine is rotating and i think its with the transmission/driveshaft, (not the engine itself) I will try to get a video of it while in reverse/forward, it goes away when warmed up, it follows the pattern of the engine chop (maybe surging engine)
@@Ralf1NATOR well yesterday I let the truck warm up and it didn't do it. This morning it didn't do it either, now this afternoon after 7 hrs, I let a buddy hear it, and the clunkiness was present, it's in the drive line, in rhythm with the cam lopiness when transmission is in gear, as it stopped when put in neutral. It is slop, I do need to do the center bearing for the drive shaft, and probably grease my yokes. The Converter is a Circle D unit which uses a factory casing 300mm unit. I torqued that flexplate and used locktite as a surity, I may check the torque converter bolts to the flexplate (4L60E). The TC is working correctly as it did flash at 2600 RPM (2600-2800 Unit)
@@juantovar7730 if you are getting that message on the dash and the oil isn't dirty - it just needs to be reset. You can do that by turning the key to the on position. (Don't start the truck) When the message pops up, press the gas pedal to the floor 3 times quickly. On the 3rd time, hold it to the floor. The message center should flash and clear. When it does that, let off of the pedal and turn the key off. Then cycle the key back to the ON position. That should clear the error message.
@@Ralf1NATOR if not, my backup plan may work out even better. This FTI is only a 3200, that B&M is a 3400-3800 😎 Peak TQ arrives at 4300 rpm, so the looser converter might not be a bad thing. Guess I should have just went with that one from the start. 🤷♂️
@@robertmacpeek424 Go big or go home, I did both! 😄🤷♂️ If I can't get those broken bolts out, that loose B&M is going in it. Might be a hint that it's what I should have done in the first place. It's a 3400-3800 RPM rated stall speed. Wheeeee!
@@Clevelandsteamer324 No thanks. This truck has been reliable. It would be trouble free if I didn't modify and race it. FTI is local to me, I'll speak to them tomorrow about the hardware failure.
@@kevinroberts781 they hit everything. Not sure why it happened. Was literally causing at a steady 70 MPH when it happened. They are the bolts that were supplied with the converter.
@@shadowopsairman1583 I bought the converter second hand. It had been refreshed by FTI, and the bolts were floating around in the box. Not sure if FTI put them in there, or if the person I bought it from tossed them in there.
@@shadowopsairman1583 I even put blue locktite on the bolts. Not sure why it happened. I had zero warning, was cruising along at 70 MPH and I thought the engine let go initially. It made one hell of a racket.
@@CCAutoWorks thank you, reminds me how much the big case Magnaflow mellows it out. And crazy to think that open cut outs VS through the muffler = zero change in power
