The new home for my automotive content after the Binder Offroad channel underwent some unexpected transformations. Follow along for automotive and machinery content, especially International Harvester but could be anything!
Well here is one thing I did that may help. Mines would not run right either, I put carb back on but removed the ECU from the fitech, mounted in car and kept all the input sensors like 02 sensor, temp, vac, TPS, intake temp. Now I can data log carb, look at data, and change jets or step up springs as needed. Works great!
Spent to much money to just get rid of it. Even if the ECU dies the car still runs. I changed the 60psi in tank pump to a 12psi. Plumb in regulator, return line was already ran. I actually like this set up better.
What a difference! I just ordered a Walker Exhaust Sounds FX for my '61 Olds. Looking for that quiet, calm sound. Plus, I think the one I ordered will fit way better than the Thrush Hush I have. The Thrush is quite large and doesn't look quite right on the Olds.
How would you restore the black gauge face where the white lettering is? Is that painted on or is there some backing that is white the shows through on the front where it shows "Temperature" etc.?
In my experience it’s easy to find valve seating issues with a can of carb cleaner. I spray it in the intake and exhaust ports and look for leaks around the valves. I staked a loose valve seat in on my push mower about 10 years ago and It still runs fine.
I had an e-series engine with 10 hours on it drop an exhaust valve seat, aka no compression. Briggs warranteed it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V_CCmf_UXwU.html go to 03:02 to see the seat.
You could press a new valve guide into the head, or just get a new or good used head, and put it all back together! I would guess that the valve lash required adjustment which allowed the head to overheat and metal expansion caused the guide to slip instead of just burning the valve face. You could try just pressing it back into position with a C clamp and a couple of small blocks of wood on each end, lapping the valves into their seats, and putting it all back together with a proper valve adjustment and you might never have anymore trouble with it again. Since you tore it down to the bottom end, you’ll need a new sump gasket, too. Don’t just use gasket maker; the thickness of the sump gasket gives the crankshaft it’s proper end play. New mowers are too expensive to replace over an issue this small, plus the new ones are all ultra cost cutter junk these days; better to fix than switch if you can do the work yourself! You’ll likely get more use out of fixing your old Murray than if you bought a new one with the cheap Chinese made engines most of them have now!
You may be spot on. The amount of slop in the rockers seemed excessive for sure. I think I may just give it a shot and see if I can put it back together and run it a few more years!
Did the AF paint it or the second owner? If it was a welder truck the rear springs are probably shot, welding rigs and all the cables, hoses, tools and equipment gets really heavy.
It's been a rough battle. I know my engine wasn't in the best of health, but I rebuilt it over the summer and broke it in with a Holley carb. Then put the FiTech back on and just really couldn't get it were I thought it should be. So for now, it sits in its box on a shelf and I put a Holley carb back on and it runs great.
Buick Grand National for almost 30 years with aftermarket systems such as fast so I'm quite familiar with tuning so forth and so on however , decided to just take it back stock with a refresh.
I'm hoping to pick up a 67 corn binder this weekend 6 cyl. 1 barrel 4 speed 2wd looks to be in real good shape. Bright ugly yellow.lol basic truck no PS no AC no radio
It's been a while, so I would need to try and find it again, but I found the information by searching. FiTech or someone associated with them wrote the code for the program so hard to believe they wouldn't know the error code, its literally in the software code. That's how software code works, it doesn't just generate some random error code with no meaning. Let me see if I can find it again.
@@RustinLoose I’ve been thinking of getting the FI-Tech. But i may just stick to my edelbrock avs2 carburetor. I think by just watching so many efi videos it makes me want to buy one lol. I got my carburetor tuned right with the correct fuel pressure and tuned with my AFR gauge. Anyways you got a sweet ride! I always wanted one of those but I just bought my 75 K5 Blazer.
Its not a bad route to go. I will revisit my FiTech once I get some things sorted out. The big thing with the EFI is the fuel delivery. The tank needs to be spotless. An inline pump is not ideal. You need to have a submersed pump in the tank or one of the add on fuel pump systems. And of course, the engine has to be healthy. Thank you! The K5 Blazer is a sweet ride, probably what I would hunt down if I didn't have my Scout!.
@@RustinLoose i just got my motor rebuilt not to long ago along with a new fuel tank. I may still get the fitech and get the fi tech forced fuel delivery.
