Just changed the fuel pump in my 95 1500. And still can’t get it to start. I’m hoping it’s just the relay now. I’ve already spent 120.00 on the dang fuel pump that i probably didn’t need.
@@mathiesdewulf8076 Hey! Mine is on the drivers side under the steering wheel to the left. I knew the fuse panel was there but the TOP ROW is totally hidden that holds the 15 amp ecm fuse. Panel is about where your left knee is. I fried mine when I jumped the wrong post on the relay. Spent hundreds trying to fix this before i found that damn fuse lol. Good luck👍
Gracias amigo tengo toda la mañana checando relays y moviendo por aquí y por aya jeje y ahora que mire tus comentarios llegue directo ala falla yo ya avía checado todos esos fusibles y todo bien pero al checar a fondo me encontré con ese fusible sulfatado y ese era mi problema lo cambie y asunto arreglado gracias amigo y compañero
Man! My truck never had a no start in 18 years. Just went to move it to do a ball joint and had a no start. Being in a shit mood i now pulled it to the house with the tractor planning to replace the fuel pump. (3 years old) When i was checking around before i pulled it to the house i noticed one of those “splices” looked broken. Grabbed it and the cap fell off, and the smallest glass fuse i have ever seen in my life popped out. Probably 5 amp. Less than 1/2 inch long. You just made me realize that has to be my problem. I figured a 5 amp fuse wouldnt run the fuel pump. But it might turn the solenoid on that does run the pump. Bro, than you for posting this one!! And also, im not sure if its worth the trouble, but there is a tiny ass little 5 amp fuse in there. You might wanna grab a cheapy and twist in there just for insurance. Would be totally BS if that somehow could mess up the ecu. Thanks again!
Thank you man!! Been having intermittent crank, but no start issues in a ‘92 Silverado 350- This solved my issue! Dude, I literally changed everything you can think of to the fuel pump, relays, fuses, distributor, coils, sensors, ground wiring, and all of the above. It was this exact wire from that fusible link to the orange wire🤞😅
Thanks for the video, Just got a club car in the shop with a slow acceleration and it only picks speed after holding the pedal down for and several seconds, I was thinking it may be a stretched old belt or possibly a fuel issue in the carburetor. I'm a small engine repair guy and occasionally I get a golf cart in the shop, my first thought might be the problem but I will definitely check the muffler, Thanks again !
I have a problem with my 1992 Caprice hope somebody can help me .. The old fuel tank got defected , After I have changed the fuel tank now when cranking the car immediately the fuel pump fuse get defected !!!!! What will be the reason ?
I have a little problem, my 2004 rhino 660, trying to change the timing chain but the sprocket with a big gears the timing chain sprocket will not move under any pressure. What do I do
Hey man did it make any noise? I got a noise from that side of motor pulled case off and it’s loose like you said yours was it touches the case damn near
Omg... thanks for the vid. Been pulling my hair out here. What a pain in the ass these things are. You explained it well. So the top washer is not ribbed correct? Just the bottom one?
Well im gonna use a shaft pulley instead of a clutch if it needs it im getting the same gt42 soon and will be restoring the whole thing I'll be lucky if the flywheel spins from the looks of it but i can tell the one im getting has been sitting for a long time I wonder what year those are like when were they made
Sorry for the delay. I tracked it down to stupid fuel pump relay. Lol. My advice for everyone, is to start there. My old fuel pump is still good. So I fixed that, then tore the truck apart to lower it, put a trans in, redo the interior, and powder coat the wheels.
@@Mikeys1316 I've had an intermittent no crank no start on my 1991 305 . Only happens occasionally & only when stone cold in the morning , once running it never quits & always starts when it's warm. I suspect a bad ground & i did find a greenish bit of copper showing on a ground wire at the thermostat housing that has rubbed through. Bad grounds are notorious on these trucks especially as they age. First there's the ground strap from the battery to the block , then check the block to body & firewall. Rubber body mounts electrically isolate the cab & box from the chassis/ frame. Your computer / dash & switches all need a good ground. On the passenger side of the engine youll see the main wiring harness enter the inside of the fender leading to the computer & other main relays right next to it. Your fuel tank & sending unit needs a good ground as well. I'm going to have to go through all of them soon as well. Aside from bad grounds the pick up (magnetic ) coil can be bad, the distributor gear on the bottom of the distributor can & do get worn, the ignition control module chronically fail due to the heat. Be sure to use a thermal , heat conducting paste when you install a new one ! It is NOT dielectric grease as it must contain microscopic bits of aluminum , brass or other metal for the heat to be dispersed. Sometimes you can try to clean the pad & re-apply fresh thermal grease/ paste but it's likely the hermetically sealed transistors on the board have already failed. Buy AC Delco. You can get burned with chinese knock offs that don't work straight out of the box ! If you want to save money buy three Chinese ones & maybe one will be good may be two or all three will be bad ! These are just places to look as it could be a number of other things. Lots of people put new IAC , TPS , EGR, modules on hoping its one of them & whatever else they can afford( or not!) to roll the dice on. I intermittent problems can & usually are as a result of bad connections & grounds are a good place to start. Don't cheap out on cap & rotor either. Brass contacts & especially the center button & SPRING are the way to go. Aluminum will last for a while but brand name quality is worth the extra dough, just as for the ICM module i just described. Good luck !
Cuando falle la bomba de gasolina, conecta un cable directo de la bateria (12volts) a la terminal G del ALDL y asi sabras si funciona o no.....saludos a todos.
