My name is Nick. I like creative design and manufacturing. Insta: @inventorsquare
I stopped regularly making videos due to poor health and circumstances. I’m alive, just trying to reclaim my health and live my life for now. You should still subscribe just to see if I decide to share something cool. Thanks.
Recently had a project where I needed to print small thumbscrews, vertical print wasn't strong enough, cut horizontal didn't thread properly so instead I modelled a thin .4mm T shaped support for the underside of the print and then just snapped it off after. Worked like a charm! Hope this helps anyone else in a similar situation.
My printer is pausing and moving to where I told it to, but then it start back up again in about 2 seconds ... I don't see a place to set pause time... I assumed it would pause till you told it to go again.
I've just upgraded from the FlashForge Adventurer 3 to the Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus. The firmware is up to date and I'm using Cura 5.4.0. However, when I try to use this method of 'pause at layer' the printer pauses but refuses to resume afterwards. Adding hardware or magnets to my prints is pretty fundamental to everything I do so this printer is pretty useless to me if it can't support this relatively basic function that was made way easier with the FlashPrint. I welcome your thoughts. :)
@@lucaseidy5209 FlashPrint is the slicer software that supports FlashForge printers only. Cura will support this but not with the Ender 3 S1 plus. I returned mine and got the Ender 5. I don't have any issue with pausing prints to add components or change filament colour with this printer.
Speaking in subractive/additive terms for the inner threading did you just make a square and then use the corner of it along the heigth of the nut in order to get the shape?
Maybe somebody encountered. I can't resolve a problem - a seam between pre- and post-pause layers. The gap is approx. like layer's height. My print is cylindric and the wall of the next layer becomes a polyhedron instead of circle, because it sticks to the prev. layer randomly at some points.
There are a couple options to fix that I forgot to mention. Add at your change-at-layer an increased extra nozzle prime, and reduction in speed. Depending on material it may be necessary to lower cooling fans. This extra priming results in a string of filament on the entry point of the object that can be clipped off and a tiny nub to sand, but generally ensures the layer starts with full extrusion right away. Secondly there is a box to check allowing you to repeat the previous layer, which also acts as a nozzle prime, however this was not preferred because it most often leads to a fat ring mostly all the way around that needs to be sanded. Ideally in the future we could set a small percentage of that layer to redo.
Using Extensions --> Post Processing --> Modify G-code --> Add a script --> Pause at hight (Pause at layer number and method: Marlin) in Cura; does not work with my FLSUN V400, it creates the M0 code wich results in the Console in the Dashboard saying that M0 is an unknown command. Does anybody know if this can be solved another way? Perhaps also others need the pause for pause and place components into the 3D prints.
Sorry, I can’t answer that right now as I’m not using OctoPrint currently. If I remember correctly, it was never clear about what it wanted. You need to flip some alarms and do some fiddling, perhaps resuming with a Gcode command instead? Otherwise you need to press resume on both, at least that’s how it was when I used it last.
i have a flashforge adventurer 4 and the script for pause causes an unload of material which is annoying, does anyone knows how to avoid that unload process?
This is really awesome, I'm just curious as to how you figured out where to cut into the nut? I've been trying to print small M5x0.8 screws and I'm close to getting it perfect, but it's not quite there.
Thank you. The cut location was mostly just trial and error. The factor causing poor fit was material drooping on the lowest, more horizontally overhanging layers, and crushing there in tests. The top cut can usually be cut smaller. I found the shape where this problem would visibly go away by viewing it layer by layer in my slicer, and printed a few tests from there. They would have turned out even better with rafts.
@@Inventorsquare Very interesting, I'll definitely have to look into that! I also never would have thought a raft would work but that's really good to know too, thank you!
The only issue I have is that my printer doesn't recognize it as a pause, it just sits there not printing. If I hit the manual pause on the printer it just says its waiting for another command to finish...
What printer and firmware version are you using? It’s possible the stepper motors become disabled and the printer waits indefinitely for the park head movement. Try adding a long time rather than an indefinite stop. You can also change the G-Code of your LCD menus to do the same. You also might want to consider trying different pause types from the drop down menu in Cura until it works. Otherwise there is an issue in the firmware related to the parser.
@@Inventorsquare Thanks for the reply man. It's the Anycubic Kobra and the firmware... I don't even know, how would I find it? I added a long time and that didn't seem to help. The head always parks to the section of the bed I state but after that nothing happens. How would I go about changing the G-Code of the LCD? Does it help knowing that I get beeps from the BQ (M25) G-Code option?
@@VenVidiVici You’ll need to update the firmware to enable it. Confirm your branch has park head on pause, emergency parser, and hostkeepalive features enabled to avoid any possible issues.
This is exactly what I was thinking about how to do it . Thank you. I was plan to cut the electricity by timer and resuming it after that. I think that we can make a multi PAUSES by add another script?
It should resume with a press of the main LCD button. If you’re using OctoPrint it may be having a strange interaction, depending on the emergency settings.
@@Inventorsquare thanks for the answer... I'm a total beginner... After alf an hour, still on pause, and I don't know what you're talking about, sorry...
There are a few tutorials here on RU-vid. Generally it is done compiling from the VS Code program with a recent version of Marlin, depending on the size of memory your board has.
A bit paused. I’ve mostly been working on myself, in a small room at the moment. looking forward to getting a shop set up again and have the space. Thank you for asking. I hope all is well for you.
This is exactly what I was looking for! Incredible video, clear and straight to the point, as well as mentioning things that are super useful (like how to keep the script info as defaults). I was wondering, what is a good distance between the bottom of the print to the start of the magnet area? Is there a good rule if thumb to go by? Thanks!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoy it. I made the video because when I needed the information myself, I was sitting through 10+ minute long videos that beat around the bush and still didn’t really explain! From my testing, the strength of the magnets significantly decreased with more layers. 1 layer was just adequate enough for the tiny magnets, and 2 was a bit too thick. The stronger the magnet of course, the farther away it could be. However, in the future, I will prefer to get magnets with either some type of flange on their edge, or a tapered hole in the center, that way the magnet can be perfectly flush with the bottom of the print, while still be held securely.
@@Inventorsquare Awesome! Thank you for the info! I'm trying to make some Easter Island heads with integrated magnets, and your videos have been lifesavers!
