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I have a hub motor that stops at a specific point when you rotate it by hand. I know it’s the motor and not a bearing since I can feel it magnetically stop at that point. What do you think could be wrong?
Hmmm...do you hear anything at a given point when the wheel is rotated? Like rubing or clicking? It could be that someting has moved in the wheel motor but that doesn't seem very likely. Might be a wiring issue, like mine had, but mine was a brand new unit from the manufacturer. Could yours be due to wear? Thanks for watching!
@@Aggressivefun Thanks for replying! And I got mine lightly used. I wouldn’t be surprised if it has only been charged twice since it looks brand new. I don’t really hear anything it just magnetically stops at one point when you rotate the wheel.
I would venture to guess the older seemed to work better because back then they probably had a bit better, though maybe not as environmental friendly, stuff in the mix. I dont even k iw how old my AIM and Kestor 60/40 spools are. But they dont have any kind of dates on them. They work great for me
Great to hear! Here is the rosin core flux chemical make up when asking ChatGPT: "Rosin flux used for soldering primarily comes from natural sources, specifically from the resin of pine trees. The main chemical component of rosin is a mixture of various organic compounds, including acids (such as abietic acid) and other terpene derivatives. The rosin is extracted from the tree and then processed to be used as a flux in soldering applications. Rosin flux is valued for its ability to clean and improve the wettability of metal surfaces, aiding in the soldering process by preventing oxidation and promoting the adhesion of solder." Some things just get better with age! Like me! :-) Thanks for watching!
I have a 1lb roll of kester 60/40 RA 3% .031 and an aim 60/40 2% RA .032 ive had for a while and i hear they have alot of new ones but kester 44 used to be the benchmark. I dont think ill buy anymore but it seems they have alot more flux out now im curious about. And curious if i need different solder lol. Ive never had to clean the flux off the board with kester 44 and never had a fail. 🤷🏻♂️ But reading "you need to clean" now. Also none of my spools have date coses either. Guess its good forever haha
Yeah, my oldest spool is 60/40 .031" Kester 44 and is still going strong! Cleaning rosin 44 used to be a thing but if you read the Kester datasheet, cleaning isn't required. Not sure when they added that info! There are lots of other fluxes now and the Kester no clean families are my new favorites. No Cleaning and no sticky residue - love that combination! ANd yes, good forever! :-) Thanks for watching!
My "n=1" anecdote: I have Radio Shack solder that I bought in the early 90's that still works fine... For what it's worth, I'd be willing to bet money that if somebody had a 100 year old spool of 60/40 or 63/37 solder around to test with, you could pull it off the shelf and make perfectly fine solder joints with it. Maybe the flux in the core might dry up or something, but I believe in usually using supplemental flux anyway, so that's a moot point to my mind.
I have so many different solders here that it's ridiculous. And that ranges from cheap Chinese made stuff off of Amazon or Ali Express, to name brand solder from MG Chemicals, Kester, Loctite/Multicore, etc. And by and large my observation is that brand doesn't matter all that much. What seems to matter more is a. using the right size solder, and b. using enough flux. That said, if push comes to shove my "favorite" solder, eg the one I turn to out of instinct, is the Radio Shack brand silver-bearing solder in, aaah, I think 0.032" size if memory serves correctly. I've been using that stuff since I was a kid and it pretty much "just works". The other stuff I use quite frequently is my spool of really fine pitch (0.010") Multicore solder.
Do you know who the manufacturer is of the Radio Shack solder? My guess is that they use someone like Kester or Alpha with their customary re-package, re-brand. The Multicore 0.010" is great solder and a spool of it these days is very expensive! Thanks for watching!
@@Aggressivefun - I'm afraid I don't know. And I'm not sure if it's even being made anymore, given everything Radio Shack has gone through the past few years. It can still be found on Amazon and Ebay here and there though, so I pick up another roll every now and then. I probably have enough to last me the rest of my life at this point. 🙂
Kester 44 63/37 in 0.030 has been my favorite for over 50 years... what do you recommend for those few instances when you need amore reactive flux than 44?
The only more reactive flux that I'm familiar with is acid core but that is more for galvanized sheet metal so not recommended for electronics soldering. It could be used though if you clean it well when done. Thanks for watching!
When I know how to do all that why didn't you tell us what the name of the part is that's the hardest thing everyone wants to give you a strut and not to push rod what is the name of the push rod
To change the lift rod to rear hatch door is very simple and be done in 10 min. The support shocks to rear hatch is done in couple minutes. Pull up video and save a fortune.
Dang! Sorry to hear that. Not sure on the screw size. If it were me I'd find a hardware store, like Ace, that sells hardware individually and try a few sizes. Thanks for watching!
My daughter scooter stopped working. The screen shows like an upside down 13 and you push the brakes its jerking like it wants to move but does not and tried reseting it bit does not work but it charges up no 000 on screen.
Hmm...I've not seen those issues with mine so I'm not sure what to suggest. My guess is maybe a battery issue where the voltage is to low even after a charge. Maybe a bad battery. Thanks for watching!
I've heard that it may relate to a bad throttle control or you may get it to clear by disconnecting power to the controller and plugging it back in. I've not done these myself so I'm not sure if they actually will be a fix. Thanks for watching!
