Hey great work, I’m currently replacing the starter ring gear and noticed a small leak. So I figured I’d take care of it now. Do you happen to remember or could paste a link of where you got your gasket and seal from? Just want to make sure I get the correct one
Hey thanks for your comment! I do believe I got this seal right here www.steinertractor.com/ABC387-Seal hopefully the link works for you it’s from Steiner tractor. Good luck!
Thanks for subscribing!! No I have not done a video on this but I have replaced an inner oil seal on the left side rear axle before and had the brakes off
If you ever have the time, I would really like to see a Jubilee "How To" post hole digger with tips. What size auger are you using? I want to purchase a post hole digger for mine, but wanted to learn as much as I could before doing so.
It’s good to be back working on the old stuff again! The tractor was sputtering and backfiring and everything I red led me to the valve adjustment. It might of also been the timing maybe
I need a project like this. Something that's 70-80 years old, needs everything drained, flushed, new wires, clean the carb, new lines. My 30 year old walk behind tiller is getting to be a pain in the @$$. Time to hitch up the trailer and go to the farm show.
Yes I totally agree you do need an old machine like this!! :) They are simple and easy to work on. Very good to learn about these old tractors I love it
I have seen that where some vehicles have the valve adjustment the same on both intake and exhaust, however on many engines the exhaust valve gap is greater because the exhaust heats up and extends the exhaust valve length, Of course this is particularly true,, valve setting when the engine is actually room temperature cold.
jactor, it is nice to see a young man do a good job on this adjustment. tell me which tractor do you prefer, this ford, or the john deere as seen in the back gound. if that jd is a 40 or 420 it should have standard 3pt hitch, if it is an m, not so much. best wishes
Thanks!! Much appreciated. And the John Deere you see is a model 40 with pto and 3 point. Still haven’t got around to that project yet. I do prefer my little fords over the deeres I have to admit
Kinda strange that they were so tight because usually over time they wear a little so if they were gapped correctly the first time you’d think they would have been slightly looser and I could tell when you got your wrench on them they were tight so it’s not like the jam nuts were loose but I was told by someone and I can’t remember who but he said that he would rather hear the rockers tick a little and have the valve open all the way then have them to tight so that the valves don’t open all the way 😀🇨🇦
Great! I also was told it’s ok to hear the valves a little so I’m not to worried about that. Not sure why the adjustment was so tight either. A friend of mine that is an actual mechanic told me every time I buy a new tractor it would be good practice to check the valve adjustment
IMPORTANT - IMPORTANT - IMPORTANT I have operated countless hours and had many experiences with the Ford 8N using several implements. The bush-hog is obviously the most dangerous. While with general improvements and maintenance, that bush-hog you bought will give you great service. My issues fall in two categories: #1. Tractor/Bush-Hog combination. The Ford 8N has a "non-live PTO". What does that mean ? It means when you connect the bush-hog, recognize that it spins a very heavy mass at high speed thereby generating enormous energy that can't be stopped like a flail mower. When you are mowing and push in the clutch, the energy remains in effect and is directly connected to the engines crankshaft. That means regardless if you apply the clutch, the power-train will continue until the energy is dissipated. Simply stated ... if you're mowing and come to a fence or building, the energy stored in the blades will push the tractor (and you) through the fence or building. REMEDY: Go to Tractor Supply and buy (not expensive) a "PTO over-running clutch adapter". This allows the bush-hog blades to continue spinning with no effect on the power-train. It can save your life. And yes ... when you let out the clutch the power-train and blades will become recoupled and continue mowing. #2. Blade Sharpening: Find a mentor that you trust to advise you. For me ... I would remove the blades and note the gash deviations for depth while holding the blades together. Draw a line from the blade tip back to the bevel to include the gash depth on both blades (treating them as one blade). Grind the edged portion flat (the same amount and same angle on both blades) to a point where the gashes are gone. When the blades match in shape, apply a grind to provide an edge, making sure to have the beveled edge the same on both blades. What you're doing here is creating a matched mass on both sides. Because the center hub is normally concentric, having the blades match in mass will give you the best chance of a balanced turning mass. Safe operating my friend.
Thanks for your comment. I’m not at all concerned about using the mower without an over running clutch I have operated these old tractors from a young age mainly Fergusons also without over running clutches. I just know when I need to stop. I also do own an over running clutch but I have had bad experience with them disintegrating the roll pin there for coming loose and hitting the pto shaft housing. I would recommend an over running clutch for anyone new to these machines and with this setup. Personally I would never use one again
Why not soak the leather piston ring in hydraulic fluid instead of water considering that is what it seals? Does it say to use water an not hydrofluid?
More questions from me I hope you will answer. I have the same tractor now. My PTO shaft had a troubled life. Its toast! I have a complete new shaft assembly with the larger size splines to make it more current. My PTO Lever is very, very stiff to operate. I can engage my PTO and it works (put the splines are toast so I can not use it as is), but disengagement takes a very hard pull and my lever just reaches 12:00 O'Clock position and does not cant towards the front of the tractor like it shows in the manual. My question: Can I remove the PTO lever/cover assembly like it shows yours removed in the beginning of this RU-vid? I want to see in there to make sure I can get the old PTO shaft out and hopefully it isn't stuck or bent. It does not vibrate and spins correctly even though the splines are all bent (rear). I was hoping I could gain some advantage by removing the lever and cover assembly that could help me remove the old shaft assembly. Your thoughts and advice please?
Yes you can remove the pto lever cover and the lever is all attached to the cover it’s very simple. Then you can take a peek inside. Make sure you don’t spill any fluids out the cover though lol. But the pto shaft should easily slide out once you unbolt those 4 bolts on the back of the pto
@@jactor7274 Thank you. I was so hoping that was true. I really appreciate you sharing what you have learned and know. I am following right behind what you have done on your tractor on mine. I am blessed to have you doing it all before me. I am amazed at what you have taken on and what a great and quality job you are doing.
Did you replace your Oil Pressure gauge? If so, where did you get it? I have the original one that came with my tractor, but the line is leaking really bad behind the Hydraulic pump (the oil pressure line).
Is the valve cover vent on your tractor clogged as that could cause over pressure of the crank case and the leaks you pointed out. I suspect you have already done the head gasket. But if not, two things often work: 1.) Just repeat the head torque sequence and add 5ftlb to the final torque, and 2.). "K-Seal". It is snake oil that works. I used on my Son's Mazda RX-8 Rotary Engine with blown internal coolant seals, and on my 1996 GMC 3/4 Ton 4x4 7.5 Liter, Suburban with 227,000.00 miles on it. The Mazda was blowing white smoke from water in the chambers and everyone said it was dead. It has 37,000.00 more miles on it now and has never had a problem. The Suburbans with 454/7.5 Liters tend to blow head or intake manifold gaskets over 170,000.0 miles. Mine started loosing water and smelled like coolant when parked. I was adding at least 2 quarts of water a day. I put in K-Seal and its been about 12,000.0 miles and I haven't added a drop of coolant since putting in the K-Seal. The stuff works!
Oh ok thanks for the info! I actually changed out the valve cover vent so it’s not likely that. But I eventually will rebuild the engine so I’m not too worried about it for now
I really enjoy watching you work and like that you are humble and don't try and make yourself out to be something your are not with clever edits and such. By keeping it real, it is much easier to learn from you. Thank you.
How many bolts per side does it take to remove the hood assembly like you did? I have not investigated mine. The previous owner told me I can pivot the assembly forward on the two bolts at the bottom of the grill that you removed. Is that true? Please pardon my dumb questions. I did not grow up with tractors or on a farm and my old Jubilee is the first tractor I ever owned (I'm 67 years old). I just got it running and now want to make the improvements and restorations you have as I have someone to follow. I have lived on 2 acres for the past 45 years and have maintained it with a John Deere 317 and just recently for fun purchased an outstanding John Deere 140 with all implements. So I know Garden Tractors, but nothing about real tractors or 3 points. I have another dumb question: What is the mason jar elbow extension that I see sometimes sticking out from where the air filter grill is on the left side of the hood? Why do some people have that on their tractor and others don't? What does it do? Thank you.
That’s all good these are very good questions. Yes you can flip the hood up with the 2 bolts left in but I find that the hood is super flimsy so I just take it right off. There’s the bolts at the front and there’s bolts around the dash cluster. The mason jar you mentioned came on some models as a feature it would collect chaff to stop it going into the air filter system
I actually don’t think I did since the bearing looked in good condition like new almost. My guess is someone once rebuilt mine before. Sorry that doesn’t help much
@@jactor7274 Yes. You did as others here on YT have done: You left the bearing race at the very bottom of the steering gear case in because it is at the very bottom and always still gets lubricant and so does not deteriorate like the other bearings higher up. You did (said you did and showed it in the video) replace but not show how the large bearing race at the bottom of the steering column tube. That is difficult because unlike a wheel bearing there is not cut out behind the bearing seat to put a drift and drift out the race. So I was wondering how you removed it from the blind hole it is in at the bottom of the steering shaft tube. Mine is toast and needs to be replaced. Thank you for your responses and excellent videos. I have learned a great deal from you.
Mostly I use Steiner tractor parts, my local new holland dealership, fixthatford.com. For bearings I usually go to my local bearing /machine shop they are able to match the part numbers. O rings I just buy them in bulk from Amazon and just match them up
To all you saying ton get a overrun clutch its not a 9n 2n or 8n tractor, the mower will not push this model tractor, also they make a special pin for that mower that fits where you got those cheap bolts, they're like 7/8"
So, our seal looks fine. But the lower plate loos like it's leaking. I have the bolts out, but the plate seems stuck? Any advice would be helpful, even knowing what to expect behind it!
If you mean the lower plate inside the bell housing, I’m pretty sure that it holds the bearing and clip for the gears. Maybe try looking up a manual for that. I never went in behind that plate so I’m not sure what to expect but from my experience so far I would research before opening it up.
