I too just picked up my grandfather's Quincy. It's a model 206, ROC 1. It works, but it's leaking everywhere. I want to rebuild it. Do you know where you purchased the kit? I found a kit with Pacific air compressors out of Portland, but unsure if there was a better option. Do you know what the special tool is called that is needed to compress the fittings that you mentioned for the unloader diaphragm? Thanks for your help!
no special tool, you can re use those compression fittings a few times. if it's just leaking oil, you can make all of the paper gaskets yourself. i bought the kit from pacific air compressors i believe
cool hope you make a short video about it or post on oil burners we love this stuff. So in the video was a chinese ebay regulator and it sucked. it blew out on me and ruined a day. switched to a 0-14 PSI oil pressure relief from mcmaster as the main pressure relief for the waste oil system. www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/566/4703K54 and my build thread on OB www.oilburners.net/threads/belt-driven-fuel-pump-discussion.92391/ quite a few upgrades and refinements since this video
@@bcouri1 Sweet! Just read your build. It gives me a lot more hope on the system I’m gonna try.I like your approach with the vegetable setup. Used parts and all. I’m on a bit of a different track with wmo. So pretty much the same with no heating to tank or lines, although it would be benificial. It says you’re having seal problems. I see yours has bearings, but I know most regular gear pumps can’t handle side load, be it belts or whatever. On mine I’m gonna try a jack shaft with a coupling to the pump. I hope that’s the ticket. Might be some food for thought. I have a hydraulic pump on the way now with fittings and already have a gas burner regulator. I really like the one you got from McMaster, but wondering what the max fuel flow it can handle. On another note, I really thought about using a fuel pump from a c15 cat. They are gear pumps but also have a 100psi safety relief built in, but have a regulator in the return on head. But they are pricey compared to just a gear pump from surplus center.
@@Nathan-dh5mq Are you doing this on an IDI? I ask because the db2 pump is calibrated to receive around ~5 psi at the inlet and anything more is severely messing with timing and efficiency. eventually settled on the mcmaster (after about a year of searching and researching btw 😂) and wish i wouldve spent on it in the start. for my specific application anyway.. the drive and driven shafts on this viking pump are both supported and lubricated front and rear. the front bearing was actually fine but i replaced it anyway cause this pump is probably 50 years old and already served a life as a fryer oil filter pump, back when they used real shortening and not veggie oil. that's also the reason the seal was leaking, it was just clapped. new seals are good on there. It flows somewhere in the ~6 gallons per minute range. not sure what your pump is rated for, but like i said i went through 2 cheap automotive return style regulators before i could find on that could handle the volume as well as the heat in my case.
O yes shes an idi. Pure loyalty. Im awareof the psi issue. Ive been rocking wmo for a lil over a year and the main trouble ive had is from electric pumps that are made to output the 7psi. Its way to finicky between 2 micron filters and fuel thickness/consistency. Upon my studies/experience, 35ish GPH on diesel is sufficient for the idi. so i specd a pump to get me around 1.5gpm or so at 3k rpm, depending on pullies. I can get more out of it but that should be plenty. A c15 pump is around 1.5 i believe and a far bigger motor.@@bcouri1
I also decided to order some fuel line with an fittings to spruce it up a bit with 8an 1/2 line. Thatll help tremendously with flow in my case. Im sick of hose clamps and barbs after spending time in hydraulics with jic.
Hey. Thank you for the video. I have a quincy compressor (310) with an unloader valve, but it has a different design. How would you adjust yours? Does it have a cut in and cut out adjustment on it?
off the top of my head i cant remember which screw does what, but there's the inner and outer screw part of the assembly that both have a jam nut. pretty aure turning the inner screw out lowers the cutout pressure and it might be the same way for the inner to adjust the differential, but could be vice versa.. just make small adjustments and note the difference in cutout pressure and differential/cut in
So. I think that the previous owner installed the automatic shutoff valve and it won't work if I don't take it off. But thank you anyways. It made me understand it better.
I know this is an older video but I appreciate this video, I have a model 212 which is similar and I was trying to figure out how to plumb everything. Not that this showed me... but it showed me... Thanks
I picked up the Q 210 off the the side of the road nearly 10 years ago and is still running strong. The electric motor finally gave up (1.5 HP Howell). I tried to rebuild it but the wiring was dry rotted so bad, I'm just going to replace it. I need to know which way the compressor runs. I never really paid attention when it was running. If I am facing the pully side, is it Clockwise or counter clockwise rotation? The new motor is reversable so I don't want to run the pump the wrong way. The compressor I have does not have the unloader and works fine without it. I have used it in the upholstery shop and got many hours of use. Good oil pressure and good militance Nice rebuild on yours. Thank you for your help!
Hi Franklin.. as far as i know, any 210 without an oil filter has a vane style pump and only works in one direction. there should be an arrow on the oil pump housing noting the rotation. you can also reference the flywheel, you want it rotating to where the "fan blades" are pushing air back toward the pump. hope that helps.
I picked up an auction pallet the other day with a couple of known power tools worth the $125 I paid, plus lots of unknown items. There was a rebuilt Quincy 210 buried in the middle of the pallet. I had no idea it was there. Has a repair tag on it stating that it was rebuilt in 1996 and has oil, but was clearly never put back into service. I appreciate your video showing the unloader operation. That's really cool. WIsh mine had come with that!
i must say that i absolutely love this video and i love you too! just my kinda guy, "wait i,ve got this *****ed up, wait NO I DON'T! awesome im going to make and use this check valve in my o2 tank packer I made out of an o2 concentrator unit and a refrigeration compressor. party on garth!
Hell yeah I have lots of fun in my 2 car garage, lots of very interesting things going on around here! Pool of tone..... You play? I used to run a shit load of sunn gear in some bands.
@@donaldbankes5832 I dabble in the Bass a bit and have a smallish variety of gear to play with. passed up a sunn folded horn "18 cab a few years ago cause the driver was blown
the pilot is set 5 psi lower than the pressure switch so if i open the valve from the tank to the pilot it will run continuous, if its closed it uses the pressure switch
they get gunked up, iirc there is a little filter screen in there that could be restricting air flow. take it apart and clean it up, put some oil on the spring and ball
that's the exact motor on my 1974 KARGARD Compressor i recently picked up and was wondering why it "FREE WHEELED"after the pump shut off. after asking on several forums and even calling a guy i used to repair an old century induction motor a few years ago, He didnt even know why it "FREE WHEELED" so your awsome video solved the mystery, THANK YOU very much.
Hey - don't suppose you have a picture or anything of the tool you fabricobbled to remove the valve assemblies? I have that exact compressor on my workbench right now with the head partially disassembled. Trying to figure the best way to get them out and not destroy them.
sorry i do not have a photo.. what i did was take a 1/2 drive chrome socket that most closely matched the OD of the valve cap. then i marked where the two teeth needed to go then cut out the socket with a cutoff wheel. sorry i hope that helps you
i made sure the tool was good and tight in the grooves then hit it with an air impact to knock them loose. but to be honest its hard to get them to seal again so if the head works as it is it might be okay to clean it up and put back together with new gaskets
It's a GE 1.5 HP, came with the compressor. 1750 rpm i believe, half speed. id shoot for that for a 2 horse if you're mating it up to a similar compressor
@@bcouri1 Binks had two lines as I understand it. If you go back to the 60s and 70s I think they're all Quincy made pumps, and then in the 80s they develop a Gold line with Quincy Heads, and the Green Line goes to Champion (iirc). I have two 210 Binks/ Quincy units on tanks, as well as a gas powered 216. I am looking forward to tearing into mine and getting them to run as smooth as yours.
Some folks have asked on here about why the suction has to be up. As others have surmised, this is so any oil that makes it into the refrigerant circuit (from bypassing the rings) can return to the sump. As long as the compressor is oriented anywhere between straight up to 90° horizontal with the suction on top, the oil return port drilled to the front bearing will be at the bottom where the oil can drain back by gravity. It is perfectly feasible to reverse the valve plate and head as shown here, but that is not enough. You MUST plug the existing oil hole with a suitable sized set screw (with thread sealant), small cup plug, etc. The hole MUST be completely sealed, or you will end up pumping high discharge pressure into the crankcase and it will go BOOM! Keep in mind that for use as an air compressor, plugging the oil drainback hole is the only mod you need to do. You can run the compressor with the suction port on the bottom in a horizontal configuration as long as that port is plugged because it will prevent oil from the crankcase from dumping into the suction side, and in air compressor use you aren't sucking a refrigerant and oil mix into the suction, just clean oil-free air. I should also mention that less oil will go by the rings if the compressor is mounted vertically. If you are going to use the compressor for AC service you also must drill out the oil drain passage in the other side. Otherwise it will load up with oil until the crankcase runs dry and/or you slug the compressor with oil. If you don't have the tools, means, and/or knowledge to properly modify the compressor, then don't. Simply buy one with the suction on the proper side for your application. You can find them used, or buy a new one manufactured in the USA by T/CCI. Forget about the Chinese York clones. They aren't much cheaper than the American made units, and they aren't built very well.
So, the little vent hole going to the front main bearing, shown at the 5:57 marker, goes to the suction plenum, upward on a horizontally mounted compressor. My application is in a Ford car, mounted horizontally with the Suction port on top. Is this simply a balance / internal breather, or what is its function? It is opposite from the dowel pin orientation, so I suppose it has a designated position to be in, either up or down. Have you any input on this question. I haven't been able to find any manufacturer info on this matter..... Thank You....RooDog....
I believe it is a drain for the oil that would be flowing through the system. As far as i know, it goes down through the main bearing and into the sump. I also know, that regardless of orientation, if you're using it for an air compressor, you can tap and plug that hole and see no ill effect and even possibly a reduction of the amount of oil that ends up in the discharge.
Not 100% sure. All the stuff with on board air states so. If you feel like experimenting, put the suction side down and see if it blows less oil. Reprt back
@@bcouri1 Int the York service manual, tccimfg.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/TCCI-SM-8.5x11-2014-12-16P.pdf it is stated several times that he suction should be up. Perhaps it has something to do with the communication passage going from the suction plenum to the front main bearing..... I don't know how that functions in the role of a simple air pump, but some users plug said passage with a set screw. Seems the way to go to me..... ....RooDog....
I picked up a new old stock 210 ROC 5 pump about 10 years ago off CL for $100. Couldn’t believe my luck. I used it to replace a tired Quincy X8 pump from my Dad’s mid 60’s Binks 1hp 20 gal. The tank rusted out so he gave it to me. The X8 was a constant run pump but I wanted the 210 to be stop-start with unloaders. I had to buy the unloader towers and the valve that unloads when the oil pressure drops. It works fantastic and I’ll never wear it out.
@@bcouri1 Pool, I just acquired a used compressor with a 210, but older than yours. I'm new to compressors but not engine rebuilding. I want to restore the unit and need advice. Write me rf06850 at yahoo dot com help!
QUINCY pumps are high end bro, I own a few of them. Theres a reason it still runs cause it was a good one to begin with. These oil less pumps these days are trash! quincy are rebuildable and made to last a lifetime.....
Amen to that. I actually have since rebuilt this one and put it back into operation. The tank it's on here in the video was junk and the flywheel actually was cracked in multiple places from mishandling over the years
Just recently finished rebuilding another 210-5 unit, with a 2 hp GE motor, and about 100000 difference in the serial numbers from this one. Currently running them in tandem with the newer run taking up the lag duty
I have the Quincy 308 looks pretty similar I have alot of extra parts mine was so old it was gold and I am looking to get the pilot valve unloader and the continuous run valve
