There's a line hang from the tank for mine but I need to find the Mechanical fuel pump because mine was running. But the line is distinctly and I'm looking for the mechanical fuel. Pump to connect to it like you say it right. Doesn't allow gold straight to the mechanical fuel pump from the back
So, first of all, thank you so much for this video. It saved me a ton of time by not having to remove the entire rear bumper. But, since this video is 4 years old, I'll add some info for advice to anyone coming to the video with a Passport that has a few miles on it; the other thing you're going to need besides the butter knife is a steel wire brush or a "fitting brush" for cleaning the rust out of the threaded holes in the frame. Honda didn't bother to cover or seal those exposed mounting holes in the frame so they're going to be rusty. Even after brushing and using an anti-seize lube, getting those bolts to fully thread was a complete PITA, and my Passport is only 3 years old with 40k miles!
My 1982 Chevy Motor home was starting and running last month. Now when I turn the key on the fuel pump in the back just keeps running and no start. It is not building up pressure as it usually would stop. Starting fluid will Start the eng. but then it dies. I am assuming the the pump may be bad. It does have fuel in the tank. I guess I will disconnect the fuel hose from the carb and see it it pumps fuel. But I don't think it is. Is this a common thing with tank fuel pumps? Mine is on the outside of the tank.
Ok mine doesn't look like that. I have the cylinder in front of it but not behind it. Is that something you put in to bridge the connection? Because on the oil sender or whatever it is I just described, it was a 2 wire harness connector which I'm assuming has something to do with killing the fuel or something and the other is what I think goes to oil gauge. I really need to figure this out I'm not getting fuel to my mechanical pump
try re-adjusting rhe carb screws. I'm having a similar situation. I domt every form battery, starter, voltage regulator, alternator. it was getting easier to turn over after replacing all those parts until recently. a few days ago, I discovered 2 cracked hoses that run to some sort of a filter underneath, which theirs 2 of them. I also had a 3rd hose air hose that must have fallen off. I think that 3rd hose was the cule prit. not to mention the fuel pump has already been replaced about 2 Years ago including the carburetor has been rebuilt and the rv has gone much of anywhere but around town for running a few close by errands and to test its limits. 1978 Dodge Sportscoach 440, b300
The reason it won't start after sitting is because the carburetor bowl leaks off. If it is a carbureted engine. If so, rebuild the carb .You are not fixing anything by using these shade tree tactics.
Mr Dean's I just acquired a Winnebago 31-ft a Elandan rv, I have a question about your video where exactly is the mechanical and electric pump located I can't tell with the video where you are at. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide, my email is mwgaston@hotmail.com
Im asking questions for a 1995 tiffin allegro. I purchased it not running for about 6 years with fuel left in it. Im wondering if what i thought was a quick fix might be turning into a magilla?
huh? why are you taking off the rear bumper panel? this is not necessary if you have the curt hitch. you didnt even show the actual hitch installation. it fits right underneath without all of this unnecessary removal
yes the c13421. 3 bolts on one side and 3 bolts on the other side. that's it. it doesn't interfere with the lift gate kick either. I purchased the curt wire harness also. it installed very nicely.
Ford E350 Econoline RV. 351 engine, 1987 carburetor. Been sitting for awhile, will not start. If you put gas in carburetor it will run but then it stalls out. Do you think this is the same issue?
@@brianharrington5176 if you click on my page I showed how to make a d.i.y fuel tank with external fuel pump maybe it will help ( I have a 350 aswell )
Trying to find fuel injection. Bought new battery and the toyota dolphin RV 1988 engine clicks. But no fuel coming to the engine. Would like to clean the fuel as it has been a couple of months since we have turned it on. Is it under the motor?
This makes sense, corrosion after an airport stay. We just had 2 days of rain and my wife's car (Nissan sentra) threw the code. No running problems though. I will attempt this fix if/ when it pops up again.
could be. also can be the fuel pump regulator that is AFTER the electric pump. it regulates the pressure going to the mechanical pump. if ur mechanical pump is NOT new, then replace it no matter what. it's cheap.
@rvlifewithdjdarren but what year, model,etc... was in your video? Someone else posed the same question, n you did not answer. I just came across your video so, have no history on you or what vehicles you are showing/do work on. Please provide that type of info in your videos n in their respective tag/info line. Otherwise, fairly good video. Thank you. 😊 ✌️
don't forget the other end of the negative cable thats connected to the body or transmission. mine was under the bracket that holds the battery. After I removed the plate, the battery sits on it was connected to a bracket that sits on top of the transmission. this part of the negative cable was caked with corrosion. funny thing is you can't see this without tracing the negative cable from the battery to the frame of the car aka the other end of the negative cable. if you keep getting U1000 codes it will be the ECU or ECM it same thing. The car's computer is going bad.
Where did you buy that new valiance with the cut-out for the hitch? And...Does your hitch provide clearance for the undercount electric sensor that is also beneath the rear section of the car? This sensor is used to open the tailgate with the wave of your foot.
@@al1843 thank you very much for posting your experience, I'm really hoping to add the hitch to my passport. Most of the video is about the problem you ran into with the valance obstructing the hitch, a temporary workaround, and then settling to use the replacement valance. But you're not sure whether it came with the hitch?!
Im not sure its a good idea to advise people that the leak detector isnt that important. And, the carbon monoxide detector is not going to identify a propane leak. I may have misunderstood your video but I thought I understood you to say the carbon monoxide detector was your replacement for the leak detector.
for sure its carbonated not fuel injected, most likely ford 460ci engine due to the motorcraft looking spark plug wires and the angle the spark plug is oriented (GM big block engines are usually orangish-red in paint color however the later small block chevy can also be painted blue) blue engine paint and shape of valve cover! Also, the location of ford"s rear electric fuel pump and at least 1 fuel filter for this vintage is on drivers side frame rail maybe 5 or 8 feet forward of the rear wheels. Crawl underneath (with the wheels securely blocked/ emergency brake on) with a good flashlight while laying on your back, position yourself forward of rear wheels and you'll see electric fuel pump and fuel filter. Pump and filter are fastened to the inside of the frame rail. The electric pump is designed to "push" or "lift" fuel to the engine where the 2nd mechanical fuel pump and it's diaphragm "pulls" fuel the rest of the way into carburetors float bowls. Hope that wasn't too confusing.
Hi. I recently purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Southwind and it has a very similar LP Gas Detector. I'm new to RVing and am trying to learn about the propane system while repairing everything. I'm not sure how the detector is supposed to work so I'm researching it all. I switched it on and it started beeping immediately. There's no gas leak but the beeping doesn't stop. I thought it might stop when the gas was flowing smoothly, but then I noticed that yours doesn't beep at all. How did you know your switch was messed up? I wish I knew how it was all supposed to work. Your video is the closest I've found to showing me how to get the system working.
I have a 1990 southwind the one I have dose beep when turned on then stops after 30 seconds then I turn on stove top burner till it lights. Now it won't stop beeping then gose to a non stop beep haven't figured the problem yet but I will. How's yours working now ? Any other questions maybe I can help. Iam in Johnstown PA for three months then back to fl
Make sure the valve on the tank is open if it’s open propane should be flowing and it should stop beeping if it’s working correctly and there’s not a leak
I have an 87 tioga with the same issue. I was going to do the same thing as suggest in the video but first I cleaned the unit with contact spray, sensor and all through the little side opening for testing. I worked the solenoid Buy taking a wire and shorting it between the yellow and one of the red contacts going into the back of the unit. You could hear the solenoid click afterwards when everything was dry I switched on the unit it beeps 30 seconds. the solenoid kicks right away. you should get a flashing green light reminding you that the unit is still working with no alarm.
I have a 350/460 ford 1990 dolphin rv does it has two feul pumps and where is the feul relay located at all my feul systems have been replaced. But no pressure it was running fine then a few weeks ago it wud stop now now pressuer what so ever please respond asap thanks man
you need to check to see that electric pump is coming on. you can hear it. also problem can be fuel pump REGULATOR which regulates pressure AFTER the electric fuel pump.
