On this channel you will see fabrication of a diverse selection of items using woodworking, sheet metal, machining and welding to create these creations such as: - custom make shop tools and accessories - wood working - sheet metal - machining -welding - wood and metal toys - scaled ride-on earthmoving machines - restoration
Please subscribe to my channel if these are videos you would enjoy watching and like any videos that you enjoy. Leave comments and I will try to reply.
Notice of Disclaimer
The author of this video is not a professional engineer, nor has he had formal training in the design or operation of the project. The author is an amateur but has been successful in building and operating the project discussed herein.
The methods that he used and describes are presented merely as guidelines for other amateurs in developing such project.
I love how with some work you can keep trailers on the road almost indefinitely. I have 5 trailers a 2002, 2003 ,2004 ,2005 and a 2013 dump trailer. And I have done plenty of welding wiring and painting on them. I don't see any reason they wont last 50 years.
That would help it from ejecting out but would require another part to keep up with and a tool to tighten the clamp. My next model that is current in my sketch book will be easier to build and will retain the spray can much better. Planning to have something out by Christmas.
I have another design that is currently sketched up that will be easier to make and hopefully will work better. Not sure when I will take time to make it.
I would consider selling these in the future. I do try to make as many of my projects using simple hand tools as possible so that anyone with the basic hand tools can reconstruct these items themselves.
It has been a long time since this pump house was setup, so I went to Hayward's web site to look at the manual. The chlorinator is a model W3AQ-TROL-RJ and within the manual they state: "Return Jet installation (-RJ option): Unscrew the hose adaptor from the pool return jet fitting and, in its place, screw in the right-angle cell mounting adaptor. Note that this installation does NOT require a flow switch--however it is very important that the cell be mounted vertically directly below the return jet in order to allow the gases produced in the cell to naturally dissipate in the pool. Attach the cell to the union and then use the fittings supplied to attach the lower end of the cell to either the hose or rigid PVC pipe coming from the pools filtration system. Tighten all union nuts BY HAND for a watertight seal." I hope this answers your question. If not send me another comment. I really like this chlorinator, and it has been a trouble-free system for many years, and I will never go back to chlorine tablets.
Thanks !! mine is doin the same thing , never had a minutes trouble with it , until today , had it several years , good service , always shut fuel off , until it dies , never failed to start , until today !! never changed the plug either , Thanks !!
Hi, open the "L" fuel adjustment until the engine slows a little, ie a little on the rich side , then the engine will respond to throttle bursts better ...... then finish with the "H" adjustment ....... just done the same job on my Echo!
I agree with your statement as this filter system still looks new and it can stay in the shed during the off season. My previous pool I had the filter system exposed to the weather and it required multiple repairs plus the task of moving in and out of storage. Knock on wood but this filter system has not given me any troubles at all.
I have a version of that jig, was wondering what that threaded hole was for in the handle thanks. I intially watched the first video on how to make replacment pins appreciate it, was wondering how i would get new pins from the manufacturerer but now I will be able to make new ones myself. Thank you so much. I subscribed
Your very welcome. I am having fun making these videos even though my voice is boring to listen to. I hope that you will like my future videos, as I'm trying to be more upbeat.
I don't understand what you mean by putting the pump the other way. When I assembled the pump into shed there was no other options that my solutions that I could come up with. As the basket attached to the pump motor only requires cleaning a couple of times a season, the shimmer basket on the pool wall captures about 99.9% of debris.
I have the same issue , changed the gas, took off carb ,cleaned needle valve cleaned emulsion tube cleaned spark plug.? thought it is a faulty oil level sensor too ? may be valve lash ? My garden needs tillin! thanks I'll try new spark plug.
I never had a spark plug give me that problem with only a short amount of run time. Now it starts and runs so much better. Hope the spark plug fixes your problem.
This vise is quite heavy for a small vise, and I have not had any problems with it. Just remember use it for light duty use and for heavy work I used the 2-inch receiver on the truck frame.
Found the article with ease. I like the long reach hammer idea. Not sure I would need it, but you never know. Making a head that is hardened on one side sounds like a plan. Maybe a few sizes as if you make 1 you can make 3 with similar effort. Jody at weldingtipsandtricks channel [ Weldmonger ] made one that got me looking. Title ( Slide Hammer Puller - Say Hello to my Little Friend ) .
Looking to make one myself. Like set up on yard stick getting set up along the pull axis. Think I will grind/sand off finish on the grips 1st. Thinking about grinding a slot in grip along the axis for grip options. My 2 lb slider is way sloppy on shaft, Think I will press in a brushing with a flat on end for contact point.
Thanks for the tip. I never thought about using charcoal dust. I was thinking about using automotive bodywork glazing putty but was not sure if it would crack.
The company that made this machine is out of business and it is almost impossible to find parts for it and when you do, they are expensive. I did find one of the kits and they wanted $180 for it. It may appear that I am guessing during the video, but I do go back and check my measurements offline. To rebuild the recent three cylinders the parts only cost me about $150 plus I did buy extra seals for shop stock. I have not had any leaks or failures on these or other rebuild kits yet.
Thanks. I like it because all of the filter equipment is out of the weather and looking new for many years. It also eliminates almost all of the pump motor noise.
The building is 53" wide x 46" high x 32" deep. It is a Suncast Model # BMS2500 resin horizonal storage shed. You can buy this shed from many sources. You may have not noticed in the video that I placed it on 12-inch square blocks for better support. This shed does keep the pump noise to a minimum and the equipment out of the weather.
After watching several idiots who thought they were explaining how to operate this heater, only to skip the part where it actually ignites, I would like to say THANK YOU for explaining it very clearly as we were having problems getting it to ignite. We got it working.
Good analysis of a common problem with metal sawhorse brackets. My first observation is to work on a bench, dismantling the horses over an open floor is painful to watch. Second observation is to use double sided tape to hold the spacers in place during construction and just leave the tape in space. Third, I have taken to add a spacer below the metal bracket to brace the legs and not relying on the bracket and screws for strength. If you go down to about half height with the brace location, and that all the sawhorses are the same height, you can use the bracing for a shelf for tools etc. The logo painting was a non-starter, however I will say that ALL sawhorses need to be given several coats of paint over the exposed wood ends to prevent moisture entering the wood. That is the first point of entry for wood rot. I use old spray paint, color dont matter.
Thanks for your honest comments. Your right it would have been more professional to dismantle the sawhorses on my bench. The double-sided tape I did not even think about using it. I was planning to glue the spacer to the cross 2x4 prior to assembly but found during my first test the spacer along worked really well, also I was planning to add another screw to the face of the bracket through the spacer that would be centered between and below the two existing screws forming a triangle pattern but decided it was not needed. I had several ideas for extra bracing to the sawhorses that would allow for stacking them as they are normally all stacked four high in the shop. As far as the wood rot these sawhorses were built in 1990 and have seen many days left outside on worksites, now they are going into a half retirement and will be spending most of their days working in my shop. I was always told not to paint items like wood ladders because it hides the wood rot that is why I never painted them when they were used outside. They are now very stable, and I have several design ideas on my sketch pad to make the super stable and still allow them to be stacked. Thanks again for your honest comments and please feel free to comment on any of my other videos.
Thanks for your comment. You may find yourself putting too large of metal stock in this tool and bending the shafts as I have done in the past. You can find various diameters of the pins at McMaster Carr.
I don't know, but my best advice is to watch the shaft closely when bending to see if the shaft is also bending if it is then you are at its maximum capacity. Remember as you use smaller diameter shafts, their capacity is less. Thanks for commenting on my channel a enjoy using your new bender.@@Dellpodder
That would be me, but I did drain all of the fuel and put in fresh. I have never had a spark plug fail like that. I did notice that starts better without needing a long warmup period before putting a load on it even from buying new.
That does make sense with the paint being at the bottom of the can. The Sawzall really does great job shaking the can so I would think it would mix all of the paint in it. Thanks for your comment.
Geezus : you dont need that much. Plus toilet bowl rings smell awful. My Uncle always had a hunk of bee’s wax on hand and basically just dragged the tip lightly across it. IIRC he only did this on hard prone to split wood? With all the advanced coatings do you even need “wax”
I only use new toilet rings, I believe them to be made of a hybrid (softer) of bee wax and the having the original box helps keep the wax under control. I have had this ring for over 5 years now. Yes, you are right I did put way too much on these screws. I have also used this wax on end grains of cut pressure treated wood to mitigate the drying of the end grain to prevent splitting. I used this wax on the end grains of the steps of a deck and only saw a small amount of splitting after 10 years.
I have used this method mainly on wood decks. The wax helps cut down on the friction cause by the screw pushing its way into the wood. The screws will not back out, at less not a single one has back out over the 20 years of me using this technique, so I am sold on using it. Drive a screw into a board then quickly remove it and notice how hot that screw became after that action. As in one of the previous comments you don't need that much wax on the screw.
Back before fancy coatings power drivers. Screw technology with self drilling and driving tips beeswax or paraffin wax was a common use. It put a little bit on the tip of the screw that you need to hand drive into the wood, particularly hardwoods and there’s really no need to wax mod and screws, especially when you’re driving into soft woods. My uncle had told me he uses beeswax because like honey it does not deteriorate get old attract bacteria. Moisture stuff is virtually indestructible. Unlike modern waxes, which could be just about any kind of petroleum sub product. Like a toilet bowl ring, I don’t know what they’re made out of these days, but I am not lugging around a nasty ass stinky sticky new toilet bowl ring. A small bar a paraffin wax would be easier. If you really think you need to wax screws, maybe you should look into better screws for the job at hand.
I have used both bees and paraffin wax and also bar soap in the past with good results but have used the wax rings to lubricate screws and to coat the end grains of the cuts of pressure treated deck boards and my deck boards don't develop cracking where the screws are installed or the unsightly cracking at the end grains at the screw locations as I see on other wood decks. I am not a woodworker by trade it is just a hobby. I just don't remember the wax ring having a smell. Thanks for your comments on my post I really did not know that wax ring were made from a petroleum product. @@Mac-mu9cs
@@buildItplace if it works for you thats all that matters. I personally find the smell of new TB rings similar to gear oil . It just smells. I put a new toilet in last summer and it it smelled.
How did you secure the 2” receiver? Rivnuts in the tailgate? Also, did you drill additional holes in the receiver to accomodate the multiple positions?
Yes, I did use rivet nuts in the tailgate to secure the receiver. Again, you are correct I did drill the two additional holes to allow the vise to mount 90 degrees and to install it reversed for storage. I purchased the receiver tube and angle iron to make this mount. Hope this answers your question correctly.
