Here you'll see real reviews of prints you can find on typical websites like Printables.com, Thingiverse.com, cults3d.com. I'll check out whats trending for the week and show layer lapse and time lapse videos and how to put multiple parts together when you need to. That way no one needs to waste time printing something that's not what it claims to be.
This is a fantastic wallet! I would suggest printing at least the middle section in PETG. The flexible bits that hold the cards in tend to break when printed in PLA. My current wallet is a PLA shell with PETG middle section and lever, it's working out great.
Not used Gridfinity yet, but once my current project of Multiboard storage in 3 places on the wall in my shed is done, I'll have to seriously look at sorting out my tool storage with Gridfinity. I need something like this box for my deeper drawers
I started using the hex wall just before multi board came out but I’ve been thinking of switching. Once you start using gridfinity you won’t stop! funny enough I’m making a case that’s trending on printables now that’s very similar but with a clear window on top. video in a week or so.
Thanks for design. I have printed 2 arms one which i remixed for my project. Will share photos on your printables once its done. I have a handy idea and will share.
Not my design but I love that I’ve been able to highlight this one for so many extra people to try out. If you see any good models out there that you think needs more attention let me know and I might do a video on them.
Definately make sure you check out the remixes like www.printables.com/model/921831-better-grip-for-base-2-and-25cm-frame that have better grip. The original ones I printed ended up getting a bit loose for me.
I know right ! Where I am, if the gravity knife blade was longer I wouldn’t be able to carry it past my property boundary because the blade flicks out and locks. Also the laws are a little vague. With that length I could if my intention was that it was for craft or utility usage but who’s to say my intention except me!
thanks ! Since I scattered these around I find myself using one almost every day for something. I didn’t realise I spent so much time looking for one all the time or finding an alternative way of cutting something !!!!!
The whole point of Gridfinity is being able to adapt to spaces not thought for it. I don't think the material and time required to print this makes any sense, specially having better systems like Stanley SortMaster that are even cheaper than these prints... But hey, that's my opinion. If you like it or have an specific need for it of course go for it!
I appreciate the viewpoint. I agree gridfinity is great for getting organisation where there's something that doesnt exist but then there's plenty of drawer organisers out there as well so where would we use it? Although it's not quite as big, I can't get a Stanley sort master for cheaper than $19 and this case cost about $4 so for price it's a winner. Time wise, it would have been a lot less to go buy something or even order one with next day delivery. The way I've ended up using this though is more of a job to job carry case. I already have gridfinity in some drawers in the garage where everything lives permanently and If I'm doing something away from there, I can use this case, grab the boxes of stuff I need from the drawers and take it to where ever I'm doing something so works out great. You could probably do something similar with a store bought case but this way, all the gridfinity boxes I use inside as well in my office drawers and at my maker table are interchangeable and I dont need to replace all those. That's the beauty of gridfinity and 3d printing in general I guess. Whatever we need for our own situation is what makes sense.
Or do you think I’m better off CNCing drawers out of actual wood? I would have used metal slides regardless of whether I went with printed plastic drawers or wooden ones, btw. I think.
How strong this is or can be? Instance, do you reckon it would be possible to 3-D print, via FDM, Drawers like these that are strong enough to hold stuff like cutlery? My kitchen doesn’t have any drawers and I have this table or counter of floating shelf I guess that’s pretty big and coming out of the wall. I have some smaller kinds of ovens on it. But I was thinking that perhaps it there could be drawers made by me, for cutlery. It would also free of a lot of space in the one cupboard, I have above my stove and sink to use whatever else I want. What do you think these kinds of things wouldn’t really be strong enough and would fall down?
if it’s near an oven or any heat, I’d take care what plastic to use or like you said, cnc out of wood would be a better option. away from heat though, they’d work fine for cutlery for sure. I do have some cutlery boxes in my drawers and the knife drawer has been a problem. the back and forth of the drawer causes the point of the knives to hit the back and over time can wedge in and seperate along the layer lines. A quick printed plate to protect it that can be reprinted quick fixes that
I found out afterthat video it was removed from the marketplace but you can still download it and install it manually. I mentioned in a follow up video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rzr3FVAZtbk.html but you can go direct to the download page on Github which has the instructions github.com/5axes/tabplus
The best and cheapest way to actually shred 3D prints is to buy a couple of 2nd hand crosscut paper shredders. The ones rated to shred credit cards and CD's.
I've seen a few people try that but they can get expensive and I was trying to do it super cheap. if you can get them for under $50 though it's definately a cheap option worth trying.
I had thought of doing it dry in a blender but I think doing with water then absorption might be a problem there and the resulting chunks wouldn’t be much use.
@@3DPrintSmith You obviously have to dry it after shredding, but presumably you have a filament dryer/food dehydrator. Without the water, heating is likely to make it a gummy mess rather than brittle like you need it.
@@daliasprints9798 I've seen a few people do it dry and doesnt seem to have a problem with heat. You'd need to start drying pretty quickly, with the smaller particles I imagine they'd start soaking quicker. Theres a point where the plastic is going to absorb too much water and the structure of the plastic is compromised, becoming less effective for what you'd be using it for next. Having said all that though I havent tried it so I cant say from any point of authority there ! Worth a try to see what happens.
@@3DPrintSmith "The structure of the plastic" is not compromised by water. The problem with moisture is that it will boil and bubble while printing or attempting to melt and mold the plastic, and the bubbles leave gaps that compromise the structure of your final part. But there is no chemical damage to the plastic from having been wet. Moreover, as long as you take the shred out of water right away, the only water will be at the surface and easily removed by a dryer.
As you noticed yourself, ABS is not strong because of the internal stresses that build up in larger prints. I use my heated chamber at 55C Qidi X Max 3 for the project I'm posting about, a 3D printed electric carbon fiber outboard - and I had to switch out the ABS in critical places to PETG which sucks, because I want the layer adhesion of PETG but the heat resistance of abs. Any ideas there?
ASA is definitely better for withstanding weather and UV so could be a viable option. I can’t say from experience because I’ve not tried it myself but supposed to have better adhesion as well. For an outboard motor, even though it‘ll be electric, ASA also is better chemical resistance too.
Yeah I have a few spools ASA and it's q pain in the rear. The shrinking factor is even larger than ABS, meaning warping is even worse. I like ASA for small parts but for bigger it's a warping nightmare even with a heated enclosure at 60C. I just can't print any larger functional parts over a few centimeters. Many of my parts are between 500g-1kg, so ASA is just not usable.
Heated chamber and tons of heat. The core issue is the part cooling, creating internal stresses after each layer. Still if you do, it's never gonna be as good as PETG in layer adhesion since the shrinking factor is too high. If you know any good alternative, a filament without warping that takes over 100C before losing its strength let me know.
thanks for the model. Its something people printing at home are really looking for because there's no way to recycle yourself right now for under a thousand bucks. This model will really help everyone.
I dont have a bambu but I did do a few blobs that would be similar and they went through well like the support material but I'm not sure if they are as big as a standard bambu poop.
I just ordered the parts to build this and specifically for Bambu poops it’ll take me a few to build it but once I do I’d like to put a video up this is the first shredder even remotely affordable for hobbyists I’ve seen
Awesome vid as always!🔥 also been looking into recycling (mainly the chipping options) a while now... that really seems like a good option especially as you mentioned the other ones are expensive - i even designed a shredder myself but getting it laser-cut is at least 600 bucks ... just need a larger intake and a mesh below i guess... And about the plastic parts... you need a chamber or at least something similar... because that layerstrengh is really weak which is dangerous with a shredding device... or turn up the hotend temp a bit (just make sure it doesn't burn the plastic... how you do it doesn't matter but for layerstrengh the two touching layers should be above glass transition temperature as long as possible to bind together...could also turn cooling down if your haven't already... For the recycling itself i have large hopes in the Greenboy3D extruder... if you want hook me up on dicord...
yeah, I was thinking of doing a remix with a standard size rectangular metal tube as an insert. It might do away with the need for the metal ruler if its a close enough fit.
the original version I printed would struggle with 500g I think. check the remixes though for different arms with bigger teeth that would hold that joint better and I think it would work.
@@3DPrintSmith one Video idea, bunch of tricks in slicers, chance the image on the plate, custom shortcuts, maaan the navigation in prusa slicer just kills my mood, specially coming from blender controls, I don’t understand the presets, right now I have like 2 system presets, 3 user presets and then 5 physical printers (although I only have one printer), whole thing is just confusing
How do you work mouse ear height when first layer is not the same as layer height? Slicers can’t do fractional layer heights … and this can mess up dimensions in a print so I’m curious how best to manage it for the mouse ears?
Thank you so much I'm brand new to printing and I'm using petg atm and three quarters of my print corners were lifting. The raft tab thingy isn't available in the new version of cura but basic raft will save my prints.
Feel like the biggest thing causing lifting corners/warping early layers is TOO MUCH cooling. Touching on turning the fans down is good, but for example, BambuLab's default profiles for PLA and PETG have the auxiliary cooling fan that blows horizontally across the bed (assuming your printer has it) set to run at 90% fan speed after the first layer. I usually drop it to 10% or just turn it completely off, especially on prints where the first few layers are quite large. You also have to remember: while turning up the temperature of the bed might sound beneficial, it's only going to increase the differential between the material temperature and the ambient air/cooling fan air temperature. And I'm pretty sure whatever material you're printing will basically insulate itself from a secondary cooling fan the further it gets from the edges of the part being printed.
i can just recommend orca slicer... and theres a feature called "mouse ears" which does exactly that autmatically - using it for every print it helps so much
In my case a poorly leveled bed caused this problem and after few screw turns this formerly loose corner now sticks harder than needed, heh... I'm yet to get hand of how of "sheet of paper" leveling technique.
@@3DPrintSmith That'd be interesting but the problem with paper method that it's subjective and it's somewhat hard to understand results after specific 'pressure'. It'd be nice to see a video with examples like: extruder too low, too high, optimal. With one-two poorly aligned corners and test prints with specific cases. And overview of test models for aligning corners (the ones that look like 1-2 layer thick planes fitting bed size). Not sure if it's optimal for a video though.
I’ll put it on the list of videos to make. I actually use a feeler gauge when I do it in case I use paper with different thickness and then do one of the huge square test prints. that’s the way I do it and works for me and people can take from it what they want. I’ll figure something out :-)
FWIW, I've tried all these proposals and keeping the cooling fan off during the earliest layers is what seems to work the best for me, when dealing with PETG. But I have run into apparent bugs in PrusaSlicer where the fan commands in the gcode don't seem to wind up matching what I have set in the settings. So it does require some fiddling around to get the fan speed actually where I want it. (Maybe I just don't understand the settings well enough, but it really does look like buggy behavior to me). Interestingly, I find that I have the most trouble with corners curling when printing objects that are larger and thicker. I would've thought these would resist curling more, because of the extra mass and so slower cooling away from the fan. But I think instead, the lighter/thinner/smaller models advance Z more quickly, which lets the model get built up higher, fast enough that it's already reasonably solid before the curling can overwhelm the bed adhesion.
yeah sounds like it’s when large prints are taking too long to get the next layer on. A thick raft can help protect even if it does lift. If it were me I’d try these in order I think they’d make a difference - design supports into the model to help with holding it down - cut the print into seperate parts that print quicker and join them later. - seal and heat the enclosure might work too.
@@robdavis8556be carefull with the metal scrapers. I put a scratch in a plate once and had to be carefull where I printed after that because the scratch would show on the first layer.
Good video, just want to point out bed temp should be lower not higher to reduce warping. The parts warp as the top layers cool (and shrink) and pull the non solid bottom layers up. By lowering bed temp the bottom layers become more solid and less likely to be pulled up, but will stick less to the bed, so glue is recommended.
Thanks! I have to disagree with you though on bed temp. From experience as well as filament manufacturer recommendations. The lower layers being warmer gives them the chance to cool and shrink WITH the new layers on top. What works for me though may not work for everyone so I think I’ll stop recommending anything in future 😊 ! !
