In some cases a bad fuse can cause such issue. But most of the time, it’s the component which the fuse feeds. You would need some wiring to chase the component and replace or fix it if possible.
I’m betting he used those players because before you can unscrew that cap, there is a snap ring requiring those particular pliers that must be removed first. The dude probably still had them in his hand.
5.3 GMC Fuel consumption Hard shifts Rough running Rough idle Shudders under acceleration/loss of power/boggish Feels like misfiring but no misfires detected Sparked plugs (twice in a month) ac delco oem Spark plug Wires ac delco oem Coil packs MSD Replaced alternator Changed oil and filter multiple times Trans fluid at perfect levels, still red, smells ok Removed and cleaned MAF sensor Removed and cleaned throttle body Replaced all 8 fuel injectors (took it to a shop for that) New a/c compressor and pulley (failed causing overheating at idle) new one fixed that. Replaced Barro sensor or “MAP” sensor After all that the truck runs better, but is still having all the stated issues at TOP. I balanced the fuel Injectors and I am inexperienced but they seem just slightly off to me. I also have only once intermittently witnessed live data short term fuel trims at -100. Not sure what would or could have caused that. Looking for any advice this video was helpful thank you very much going to try this and check FP before bringing back to shop that put in the injectors. Thank you!
Only codes I have are BCM codes from broken headlight lens, license plate lamps, and tpsm out. ECM Invalid Data from BCM-invalid data- U0422-71 2 other codes in history that aren’t current.
@@MyAutoproblems the history codes were for an abs brake line that was damaged and fixed and for a BARO sensor that according to the scanner, looks like it was only thrown once in the past at some point. I changed it with a new one to be sure, and when I saw it though for sure that was my issue. But no luck after replacing it. I will get live data fuel trims tomorrow. Thank you so much for the insight.
Short term fuel trim bank 1 bounces between 0 and 2 Long term fuel trim bank 1 stays at -6 Short term fuel trim bank 2 bounces between -1 and -2 Long term fuel trim bank 2 stays at -7
I have p0172/0175 codes on my GMC 4.3L. MAF shows 9-10g/s with negative -20 fuel trims. Codes are for banks 1 and 2 rich. Not sure what else can cause it
Rich are caused by Fuel related issues as well. Check your Fuel Pump Pressure. Check the Upper Oxygen Sensors. Or you can first just disconnect the MAF, and monitor the FUEL TRIMS. If they go normal between +10/-10, then its a bad MAF.
@@MyAutoproblems I replaced the MAF and didn’t change the readings. Still 8-9g/s. Upstream Oxygen sensors are fluctuating between .1-.8v like normal. Downstream appears to be a Little Rock .6v. What can cause the MAF to read high? It’s a 4.3L. The MAF should be reading close to that
.... I called the Toyota dealer And a woman answered and said that I couldn't crank the motor by hand At the crank pulley because it was a Camry hybrid Turns out it's just a some scam by the service adviser.... Every hybrid can be cranked by hand unless you hit a large puddle of water like My friend did is pistons are not even in the right order #1 and 2 are at the bottom of the crankcase And it's a 4 cylinder😂😂😂😂
you picked the most easiest seal there is gm ls front seals go in easy! but u pulled it off wrong the crank snout is a sealing surface that's why the bolt has special sealant coating and its one time use only!! and your using a bolt to push against that seal surface ! there a special tool for a reason! its also torqued in three stages with final pass in degrees not a impact!! so i'd say yes a real mechanic that knows what he or she is doing will do it correctly!!
@@MyAutoproblemsthere is a tool for installing the seal using a hammer puts divots in the front seal causing the seal to not have even tension on the dampers seal surface (every point the hammer touched will be tighter)
It helps lowering the Transmission fluid temperature in hot weather. Its like a Thermostat for transmission fluid. Not recommended in cold weather tho because we need the fluid to be warm in cold weather.
@@FloridaToTheT it keeps from burning your transmission up GM is killing your transmission extra high operating temperatures and when they stick it will cook your transmission
Yup. And it's prone to failure. The thermostat locks up usually in the closed or semi-closed position, causing your transmission to constantly overheat and grenade.
