This channel is all about fixing things yourself. You don't need lots of fancy tools and equipment to do most repairs on vehicles. I show you the techniques needed to perform various repairs on engines and other parts of a vehicle. While I do not showcase all types of vehicles, these methods apply to all vehicles. I am an ASE certified Advance Level master Technician, Engine Machinist and Auto body Specialist, and these are the methods I have used for over 40 years to make my bread and keep my customers happy. I take live videos, they are not staged so that everything is perfect. Sometimes I drop a tool, or the camera angle or lighting is not perfect. So, concentrate on the information given, and feel free to pose useful questions and offer constructive input. My videos are not sponsored by anyone, just me. I mention names of parts houses so you know where to get the items I use in the video.
It looks like the same sort of square cut plasticy o ring that I found on my 97 discovery oil relief valve plug. Which is impossible to find just like the cone shaped o ring for the oil pressure sending unit. lol
That o ring started out as a round oring. It was just very old and leaky. The oil pressure unit is a different seal altogether, I have to wonder how it even seals.
Great video very informative👍 I have a 97 discovery that I’m thinking about removing the catalytic converters from and replacing them with a straight pipe. Do you think that this will cause any issues with the motor?
The check engine light is currently not on but when I measure the exhaust pipe in front of the cat it’s 200f the exhaust pipe right behind the cat is only 250f
For off-road use, it is legal to do so. You will get a check engine light on, and it will give a trouble code indicating that the cats are below the efficiency level. You will absolutely need to run front O2 sensors, so that your PCM can regulate timing and fuel. If the cats are not clogged, then I would just leave them on there. YOu can measure the exhaust backpressure at the front O2 sensor. Call around to various shops and see if they can perform this test. It will tell you if there is any restriction in the cat.
That is a normal increase in temperature. When the catalyst is doing its job, there is a lot of waste heat produced. If the temps are the same before and after the cat, then the cat is no good. So, I'd say your cat(s) are working fine.
By the way, I followed your advice and switched my oil filter to a mobile one. And the oil light that used to stay on for five seconds in the morning now goes off in less than one second.😀
Do you know the problem I see? No cleaning those areas. I clean under hood every month. I keep all A/C areas clean, even use WD40 on aluminum parts and good grease on Ruber hoses
While the corrosive effects of the tremendous amount of road salt can be reduced, it can never be avoided. This 1996 truck has been well preserved, and has the original frame with no frame repairs, only minor sheet metal repairs. This truck gets many baths a year. Thank you for mentioning this.
I have a question for you. I have a 97 discovery that I just two days ago replaced (per your awesome video) the rod bearings,crank bearings,oil pump, timing chain set and removed and cleaned the pickup tube. I did this because after I dissembled and cleaned the plugged rocker assembly’s and did 2 back to back oil flushes, the oil light would stay on for 6-8 seconds in the morning. It already had a slight rod knock. I’ve only put 70 miles on it since buying it. now the oil light stays on in the morning for 5ish seconds. The motor is a lot quieter, there might be some very very slight bottom end noise ( it could just be my imagination). Do you have any advice on what I should do next? (The old bearings were worn to the copper, the new crank bearings plastic gauged at 1 3/4 thousandths the rods at 1 thousandths.)
Try running VR1 20w50 oil. Valvoline. Also, there is a press-in plug in an oil galley on the timing cover that sometimes leaks. It shows up as a few drops hanging off the oil filter (which is not leaking). Mine is, and I will do a video on how to repair it. That's scheduled for June. It drains the oil out of the passages above the oil filter, so it takes a few seconds to build pressure. Also, I have found that a Rover or Mobile1 filter work the best for anti-drainback properties.
I'm glad to help. I've tested Fram, Wix, A/C Delco, Mobile 1, Rover, Microguard, K&N, and some brands I cannot remember right now. I came out with definitive results, that the OE Rover and the Mobile 1 are the only two I should use on this motor, and that 20W50 VR1 is the only oil.
I just finished this doing this exact job on my 97 discovery, in the backyard on a gravel driveway lol. I cannot thank you enough for this video and your other videos. All the pointers and tricks really made the difference. Thank you 👍👍👍
My aim is to help the DIY guy get his ride on the road, without a big investment. Everything I do, you can do. And I try to provide critical part numbers and procedures. Check out the oil pump spring repair video too.
I installed a cork oil pan gasket on my 97 discovery 4.0 but I couldn’t find a torque spec for a cork gasket, the book says 17lbs but that’s for RTV with out a gasket. I torque the pan bolts to 12lbs, do you think that will work? Thanks
I use this sealer on my gaskets. For cork, I tighten with a 1/4 drive ratchet until the gasket just barely moves. I do not know the torque, but it is very light. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/versachem/oil--chemicals---fluids/adhesives---sealants/gasket-makers---sealers/166cc2694828/versachem-4-ounce-rtv-silicone-sealant/ver0/34000?q=gasket+makers+%26+sealers&pos=30
Thank you so much for making these videos. They have been an incredible help to me. I’m do this exact job my gravel driveway lol. What sealant do you recommend for the mating surface between the rear bearing cap and block (black rtv, hylomar blue)? Do you recommend using any sealant on the timing cover gasket? Do I need to remove the crank position sensor or just the plastic cover? Thanks again
I use aviation sealer. Sorry for the delay in responding. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/versachem/oil--chemicals---fluids/adhesives---sealants/gasket-makers---sealers/166cc2694828/versachem-4-ounce-rtv-silicone-sealant/ver0/34000?q=gasket+makers+%26+sealers&pos=30
Land Rover 4.0L. Land Rover bought the tooling and rights to the Buick 215. They started releasing it as the 3.5L, then the 3.9L, and then the 4.0L and then the 4.6L. This is a 1996 4.0L.
I have seen the 92 c1500 that my dad gifted me run with a quarter standing on the breather. Most wild thing I’ve ever seen and she’s still smooth to this day at 209,000
This is how we proved to a customer that we could build an engine better than the factory could. Try this with any car, and see how it does. If the water is not this stable, then something is wrong.
I started with a bastard file, and finished with 220. In this video, it is at about the 20 minute mark: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E09aAtpx6bQ.html
You are correct. Normally there is a small crown that flattens out when the wight is on the tire. It will be seen as a drop off on the first and last row of lugs, with the internal rows being mostly flat. These tires, however, had a severe offset crown that was caused by very bad camber settings. If I had a truck with duallies, I could have put all 4 on the rear and run them, but as a stand alone set, they were terrible. Some tires, like a lot of Michelin tires, come flat all across the tread, but not all.
changed my friends pads about a month ago, and he said the scretching. I checked them to day and found exactly this! so I'm putting new pads on again tomorrow but it's the last time I buy Mintex brakes!
I think this is from the corrosion sneaking its way in between the pad and backing plate. It is VERY common up here in New England, and when I lived (8 years) in North Carolina, I rarely saw it.
I ended up tapping down with a larger socket and a rubber hammer. Kept squirting with WD 40 and it finally launched the parts out 😂. I’ll be cleaning and reassembling before I add the new oil gears in
The studs have been in for 2 years, without any problems. Take note of the shape of the stud, as these are the best, and not merely screws. I have another video about what is a stud. It's short, but very useful. Make sure you use the same type I have here, not bullet shaped ones. Remember to like and subscribe.
Here are some on Ebay. Choose your size. www.ebay.com/itm/204463918798?hash=item2f9affcece:g:eioAAOSwfbRlBQPb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MMVkHS6e0t09bDGaQ75%2FFLIAjIf3Rvi3k%2F%2BzgX6UIFPhUnRHZEZSeNnDd8DA7VBTTPj0%2FfL4KcUSKFjg1lp2O0UrMTrxU1LGGgCwgTsIzfByldl50V2kqTgzICgBQaA2sBWzzsLXtr6EJ3c07MEB%2BfHjmab6vWNDN630Z9miAbjoSl0IgkJXNQ4Yu0AO49lBL%2Be4UVRyKY3qx7GIV6NZWVrEZXEX6oTMbZzOX4%2Fu1RRxSDLgpBpBgOKmqGaPd4k%2FOxwETyYjlXxDgKphj4ti87dIqKKiO6lhM%2BOTtX3VSDROM4RgAtQ88r2ocCSLbb1KA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6C5yfLbYg
Hi Toni, just stumbled on your channel. I've got a 95 Discovery I've done a lot of work on, including top-end rebuild, and a 97 Discovery I'm restoring now. Looks like you've got a lot of content I can dig through, thanks for creating this content for the community! I documented all my work through Instagram for almost 10 years and transitioned to RU-vid just a few weeks back. Figured I'd reach out as I'll be doing a lot of this work in the coming weeks and months as well.
Howdy NW, welcome to my channel, I'm glad you like it. With all the bad advice that is out there, I figured I'd put out genuine videos, about real work. This would give people a good idea about what a job entails, what tools they need, and sometimes, what part numbers they need. AND, if they can complete the job in their garage. Send me a link to your channel, and we can compare notes. I'm always willing to learn, and I also like automotive videos and other motorheads. In my channel, start from the beginning, and work your way through. Some of the videos you may want to play at 1.5 speed, as I am working and talking. Please subscribe to the channel, as that will show you when I post new videos. There is an interesting one on a radiator replacement coming up tomorrow.
It's about time that a practical video was made about making something cool for your truck, with just an average garage....instead of a space shuttle shop.
Good idea. My Colorado will crank without firing (flood mode) when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor. I let it crank 5 seconds, then lift to start.
Put a bead of arc weld onto the nut with a cheap welder. The sudden heat will loosen the threads. Replace with stainless dome nuts and all will be well. Closed threads won’t corrode. Open nuts are a bad idea.
Was this plunger stuck open or stuck close. Stuck open= engine is damaged?. Can't imagine that this plunger which control pressure of engine oil going into bearing or rocker arms etc could become stuck in an open or partly open position. This is in a diesel engine?. Oil change interval of 10,000 miles?. Regards.
This is a 4.0L gasoline (petrol) engine. The vehicle was abused in every way. It was run low on oil, then with thin oil (5W-30) and then too much oil, and overheated multiple times. The plunger was stuck open, as it was finally and fatally overheated on the highway. This is when the plunger is in the most open position and it stuck there. I'll be making some videos this summer, doing a teardown of the engine. The videos of a 4.0L are of a used engine that we rebuilt and are currently installing. Thanks for the questions and comments.
For the purpose of the video, I turned off the fan that blows across the lathe. It is too much background noise for the video. When i am not running the video, I have the fan providing a constant stream of fresh air across the work. Good point, thanks for the comment.
