My hobby-at-home vehicle work. In process of making videos on what I do. So many people ask me how I do my work when I go to Car Events or even just driving around. So I decided, let me show you... So "Torque down that Subscribe button and Two Step those like buttons". Most of all please enjoy my videos and drive safe. I will also be uploading gaming videos from my Twitch account onto this channel. If you'd like to watch me playing the videos live before they get uploaded, follow me at www.twitch.tv/jtuned_gamez
Good job. You’re a lot like me when I start working on my car. Found my engine motor mount is bad too. So now I need to order a new one before even starting this.
@@JTuned_Garage I was asking because I'm looking at an unknown year 3rd Generation Ram Van 3500 with either the 5.2 Magnum or 5.9 Magnum. I'm supposed to find out soon what it has. Regardless, I still have some unused ceramic coated Pacesetter long tube headers for a 2nd Generation Dodge Ram 5.9 Magnum I never installed. It seems like it may not be possible from videos of engine bays, but I've not seen it myself in person yet. If they will fit, I'll use them for sure. If not, they just won't and I'll consider mid-length or shorties later. Since I already have these, if they fit, they're going onto it!
If the long tube's don't push away from the block then I think there is a chance they can. My worry would be the drivers side of the motor cause it's so close to the wall.
This looks like a great situation to spray PBblaster into the plug holes, heat engine, repeat at least two times. Let it cool and then try pulling the collars. Even if the collars won’t budge, that should help with the plugs. That is the approach when dealing with Glow plugs on Sprinters and an Expedition I did plugs on. After the fact, but for others.
Mine did that only after reaching running temperature and idling with no unusual engine clattering or noise..idled normal...new pressure sensor fixed the problem..it's common for that model after putting a few miles on em.
So you just pop that lil tab that’s connected to the valve cover cause I didn’t see that part I’m new to the mechanic world and unfortunately this the job I chose to take on 😂 and trust me I’m having a terrible time with that last bolt but good thing I may be able to bypass taking the intake manifold off and take the valve cover off to replace the seal🦾
Best advice I can give if you decide to get this kit or anything fiberglass. If your not already, just practice working with fiberglass. I'm no fiberglass professional, but I familiarize myself with it. So, like with this kit, I didn't worry if I needed to fill in here, fix crack there.
Thank you for this video! This was the best one I could find out there for this. I'm working on a 98 V6 so it's identical to yours. The old one did not have a gasket on it, and the new one did not come with one. Do you know if this is something I need to be concerned about? Also, if this did not fix the problem, what would your next troubleshooting step be?
Should have a gasket. If not, see if you can find it separately. Gasket will keep it from leaking Trans fluid. If this didn't fix it and you've tried replacing the fluid their may be a chance the clutch plates in your transmission are worn, which means it'd need to get rebuilt or replaced.
Thank you@@JTuned_Garage! This did not fix it and neither did changing the trans fluid. I will cry softly into my pillow before I fork out the cash for a rebuilt tran. We absolutely love this car and feel it's worth the $$. Thanks again!
Sorry about that. Sometimes, these cars ask for a bit more from us. But guarantee that once you save up the money and get the transmission rebuilt, you'll never regret it. I'm sure like me, these problems always come at the wrong time either in life or financially. Hang in there and don't give up. Sometimes, it's also good to step back a day or two from working on our cars. Keep me up to date, and let me know if I can help. Keep on my videos cause I have something coming up in future videos with this entire motor.
I'm watching & I replaced mine, 2003 oldsmobile bravada about 2 years ago & I didn't take off fuel lines. It was hectic with the back bottom bolts by the fire wall.. Took me about 12 hours, first time. Bout to redo it again in a few weeks. The memories are coming back as I'm watching 😂 the struggle is real
Right... videos I'm posting now, Mann. My truck kicked my azz. To include the one I'm editing tomorrow. Hopefully I can do my garage update video now that I'm done with the truck.
If you do decide on buying this kit, prepare for it not to arrive a perfect fit. Especially it being fiberglass. I had to do alot of filling in gaps and had to cut sections off. For me, it was worth it. If you check out the other si videos, you'll see most of what I'm talking about. If you have any questions or need my help on anything, you can message me here or JTuned Garage on Facebook.
If doing what I did here doesn't work for you. It's highly possible you may need to get your transmission rebuilt cause the clutchs may be worn I side.
I replaced the fuel injectors in this video. After replacing the injectors. I did seafoam to clean the inside of the pistons, and as of right now. I have not gotten that cold back..
If you put the pinch bolt in backwards (from the other side) with a thin piece of steel in the slit and then tighten the bolt, it will open the pinch area as wide as you want and the strut will slide right out and in by hand- no hammering at all.
I replaced it cause i saw oil around the valve cover bolts on the passenger side. Also, there was oil coming from between the valve cover and the head, which it'd get onto the exhaust and burn up. I also noticed some oil in where the spark lay inside the well. I wasn't getting any codes for it, but it is possible to get a misfire code if the oil coats the spark plug and not allow it to spark correctly.
Another RU-vidr went through this. He changed out the pressure switch. Still had the problem. Oil pickup tube/screen was plugged and o ring seal at pump was hard. After all that, finally came back to normal…
I'm sure you'll be fine. Honestly, I had more trouble with the gaskets for the sparkplugs on the valve cover, so be careful cause the valve cover is plastic and can break. I suggest if they were fine and look good, don't risk cracking the cover and leave them on.
Hi, I hope somebody can help me in the problem that I have with my car.... when I start the car (Honda Accord 1993 SE auto trans)The RPM are in 800, but When I shift to R or D the RPM going to 400 and the car dies, I appreciate your comments Thank you.
I was working on another accord doing the same thing, and it turns out it was off by one or two teeth. Corrected it, and it's been running fine ever since.
It doesn’t matter if you mix up the ignition coils in fact if you have a misfire on cylinder 2 for example you switch it with #4 and see if # 4 misfires now and the oil leaking on them is the valve cover gasket
@@JTuned_Garage ok, when I go to start the engine only thing spinning is the camshaft pulley, not the serpentine belt or anything else, I put a new starter on it also
If you remove the throttle body you can easily access the fuel rail where it connects to the fuel supply line. Using a tool like Lisle 39210 you can disconnect the supply line and remove the entire fuel rail by prying up on it on the left and right sides. You can the remove the rail with all the injectors. You will have to remove the two bolts holding the rail and the wires and clips that go to the injectors. The rest is like the video and it is an easier job than it looks once you get the throttle body and big engine mount out of the way. Removing that stuff only takes a few minutes. You can clean the throttle body while it is out of the car and the car might idle a little smoother.
I did have that thought but with my luck I'd rip the gasket and I was just trying to get it done. I know it'd have been easier but ehh whatevz lol. Thanks for the comment though I do really appreciate it.
