As I was observing the application of the RTV silicone I was actually thinking “that is one of the neatest jobs I’ve ever seen when it comes to RTV silicone” And then you explained exactly that, I wish more would understand why it’s important to not put too much silicone. Well done buddy and keep going! You are doing a great job! It’s a true pleasure to watch your videos.
Thanks for watching! Years ago, I found a BMW factory engine assembly video and saw a robot applying RTV silicone on the timing cover. I was amazed, and ever since, I’ve been trying to imitate that.😀
@@adamholmes-ii1qx it’s not unusual to have different heads 24-27 is ok. It shouldn’t be that tight only 70nm. Is your timing chain still the original? Maybe it was over tightened previously.
Thank you so much for your videos. Huge respect for people like you. I wanted to share my story. Since 2023, I’ve been looking to buy an F30 320d, and I had been searching online for a long time about the problems until I gave up for a few months. Then I decided to get the car, despite the bad reputation online. I got a BMW F30 320d Luxury Edition 2014 automatic. Unfortunately, there’s no previous service history, but a mechanic inspected the car since I imported it, and he said the engine and transmission are in good condition. The car had 235,000 km and drives perfectly. My problem is I’m very afraid when I drive the car because of the timing chain. There are no noises or anything, just my fear. Can you please tell me what I should do? The first thing mechanics say in my country is to change it, but I don't know what to do. Sorry for the long message. I would appreciate a reply from you. I also forgot to mention that I found my BMW has had all the recalls done by BMW so far. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! This is a very delicate topic. Unfortunately, no one can predict the condition of a timing chain with certainty. I had an F25 with 178,000 miles (284,000 km) when I replaced the original timing chain as a precaution. It wasn’t stretched at all and had the same length as the new chain. However, I’ve also dealt with timing chain failure at only 94,000 miles. You can see the video on my channel. My advice would be, if you’re planning to keep the car for a longer period, change the timing chain for peace of mind. The F30 is a great car, and it would be a shame to drive it with constant worry over the timing chain.
I have a question about the crankshaft position. I see people rotate the crankshaft 45 degrees to the left from the position you set the crankshaft. Do you know what the difference is between your method and others?
@@aleksandarsavanovic4746 I think it has to do with the locking tool. But it is very simple, and it’s only one good position, otherwise the car won’t start. Pistons 1-4 needs to be at TDS, camshafIts locking tool fitted when the correct timing is set with the tensioners released. Descriptions tend to make it look harder but it is simple as that.
@@W15Garage Thank you for your answer, i have another question if you can please answer it. So... i have n47d20A engine in my bmw e90, and the engine is heavily damaged from piston to valve collision, now i only have option to buy n47d20A engine from x1, the fui assures me it will fit instead of my engine, and he told me only difference is in oil filter housing on engine which he gave to me, on further inspection the block look exactly the same as on my A engine, he also told me that f10 n47d20C would not fit because despite same engine code N47D20C f10 and e90 have different engine blocks. So what do you think about that swap and the mentioned differences in these engines?
N47D20A (177 hp) engines and N47D20C (184 hp) engines are not interchangeable. The block, cooling system, etc., are different, so it can’t be done. However, for models like the F10, E90 (after 2010), F30, and F20, it’s an easier job and can be done. You only need to swap the wiring harness, (injectors depending on horsepower), engine mounts, and oil pan, but the block fits. I’ve personally done many similar projects. The N47D20C has its own variants depending on horsepower. For example, the internals are more robust on a 120d 320d 520d (184 hp) than a 118d 116d (also some 116d f20 have 1.6 engine but that’s a different story ) but you can still swap them. Additionally, the 184 hp version has the cooling bolt for the bi-turbo version. Hope this makes sense.
For my F15 with N47 engine I have metal kind a sounding rattling noise on cold for 3 seconds and when driving up to 70-80km/h some rattling but slightly different. On overall engine sounds louder too than before. Can it be related to this or something else? I’ve got chain changed 45k miles ago. Thank you!
@@JonkKeithe cold start 3 second rattling could be timing chain/tensioner related, if aftermarket chain kit was used unfortunately they can wear out in 40-50.000miles
@@JonkKei timing chain noise usually is not speed related, it’s RPM dependent. You can try instaling a new tensioner. In my opinion the 80km/h noise mentioned is coming from a different source.
Hello, thank you for your video, I just replaced mine (only the gasket) and it still leaking. but maybe I didn't tighten the bolts coreectly. please do you know the correct tightening torque for the bolts ? and the sequence ?
@@user-hu3jp3if6d Hi, thanks for watching. If i remember correctly 10Nm. If you Google it there is a picture for the N57 bolt sequence, that’s what I’ve used. Unfortunately in most cases the cover bends out of shape, I tried everything before I’ve decided to replace it. Still holding on good.
I have code 273D00 speed monitoring: difference between camshaft and crankshaft position too high (intermittent) no rattle B37C15A I’m wondering if chocked VANOS solenoid could cause the code?
@@roningelertIf I remember correctly some similar fault code was present on the red mini from the video, camshaft cranckshaft correlation... B37C15A doesn’t have Vanos system being a diesel car.
@@W15Garage your welcome I enjoy your videos and watching you work on BMWs I can relate to your videos as I own an f20 with an N47 engine myself👍so watching you is good reference for me when I have to work on mine
Incroyable et chez Mercedes ils savent que ce moteur est une catastrophe car ils responsable des véhicules qu'ils vendent c est un vole et une des plus grande arnaque de touts les temps quel honte ..
Do you recommend doing this at any time or only when there is a rattle? My car is at 69k miles and previous owners only stuck to bmw engine oil changes schedules. My car doesn’t rattle but I do worry about the timing chain. Should I change the tensioner now or only when I hear a rattle. It is a f31 330d
Thanks for watching. I would only recommend replacing it if there's a rattling sound at cold start that stops after a few seconds. Regular oil change intervals are crucial for a long-lasting engine and timing chain life. Don’t follow BMW's recommended high-mileage intervals; I personally change the oil every 6,000 to 7,000 miles at most in my N57 30d X3
@@W15Garage thanks for the reply. I’ve only had the car for 1 years and have done 8k miles in it so far, oil is being changed next week. But back to the main point, change the tensioner as soon as there is a rattle sound on cold start. Do you have any videos or anything so I know what to listen out for?
I love Minis , my wife has a 2021 Cooper S, and my son has 2011 R56 Mini One, they drive great , but to work on , thats a different story. I'll stick with my Mk2 Ford Focus, Duratec engine and much easier to work on.
Is it safe to do this without locking the engine? Is there a chance the chain becomes too loose and jumps timing or completely falls off the gears while replacing the tensioner?
@@W15Garage I successfully replaced the tensioner! 🎉 My engine is way quieter at cold start. The only thing I hear now is a faint ch ch ch noise when I rev/drive it between 1.5k - 2.5k revs. I read a little online about it some say it’s normal, some say it’s not. Do you think I still need the chain replaced? Thanks a lot for the video and your comment! 🙏
@@robbejansens1678 unfortunately it’s difficult to tell unseen. A good way to diagnose timing chain noise is to drive between buildings, or a mcdonalds drive through where the echo is strong.
i have a 2014 bmw 325d m sport when i start the car the chain rattles for 3 seconds thwn gose quiet the car has done 160k not sure if i need a full chain or just the tensioner
Great video!! Simple and to the point. I have a N55 engine amd and don't hear the rattling sound but my engine check light is on. My mechanic said the timing chain is stretched. I don't hear any rattling and the car performs very well. The code reader points to a stretched timing chain and to change it he quoted 4 - 5k!!!!! When i start the engine it revs up to 2500 rpm goes back to 1000rpm then back to 2000rpm, then settles at 700rpm. I hate this so i figured i will change the timing chain but the cost to do so is half the price of the car!!! Would you still recommend swapping the tensioner?
@@W15Garage Thank you very much for your reply, I really appreciate it. The codes I'm getting on the ECM Diagnosis are: 130F20 -Exhaust camshaft angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance. 120408 Charging pressure control deactivation: Pressure build up blocked. Another issue I recently realized is that the car starts up very well and sounds very healthy after a resting for a few hours or overnight, but during several short trips, it sounds like it's struggling to start up, but starts every time, never stalled. I've been getting stares from passers by while starting up and i think is due to the struggling start during short trips. I installed a new battery in Jan. 2022, and a new starter about 2 yrs ago. I would greatly appreciate you opinion on this. Thanks in advance.
I had to remove Air filter box, B+ terminal and cabin filter to gain better access to the tensioner and it's still difficult to put socket on the tensioner head. I broke 2 extensions trying to undo it but it's just stuck.
W15 Garage absolutely brilliant channel 👍😊 thank you for all your efforts making your videos... it's top tier stuff! Can't wait for the engine rebuild. All the best 👍👍👍
@@W15Garage so needs dismantling any way to check the guides? So if going that far may as well do the lot, no? Although does that include the vanos units teeth wear and the balancer shaft chain?
The tensioner is located on the outside of the engine, so nothing needs to be disassembled-that’s the point. In many cases, even at relatively low mileage, the tensioner fails, causing chain rattling. Replacing the tensioner usually solves the problem. The N47 is a diesel engine and does not have VANOS.
Yeah understood… but my point is it’s an assumption that the tensioner is at the fault and not a broken guide. Ok low mileage it’s less of an assumption but even so. Then again you’ve done more cam chains than I have so yeah ur experience is key. 👍 would there be a mileage that you’d suggest the guides should be checked as well?
I successfully rebuilt 3 n57 engine with Chinese crankshaft, and all are running perfectly even after 20 000 km. In my opinion, the ones who last a few km after rebuilt didn’t know how to measure the oil clearance.
@@W15Garage first engine I used Kolbeschmidt STD, the second engine I ordered another brand from eBay ( never heard of it before) and I don’t remember the name. The third I used Chinese bearings Kushima. Every time I measured the oil clearance and check for ovality using micrometer, and dial bore gauge. You can use the most expensive parts in the world, but if you don’t find and fix the root cause of damage it’s useless to spend money and time installing them. Just replacing worn looking parts without taking any precise measurements it’s a very big chance of fail.
Thanks for the video and the confirmation. When the piston hits a valve, something has to give but it does seem that recent engines (last 20 years ?) the rocker has been designed to fail first. The compression ratios prove that the valves seal well.
@@rhiantaylor3446 thanks for watching! N47 is a good engine despite its bad reputation, there is clever engineering behind it. Despite the hate this engine gets, personally I like it😀
I use Mobil 1 5w-50 in my F10 535d 313hp model. Its tuned to 470hp and now bearings were like new after 100k km driving. I rebuilded engine before because main bearings broke.
@@dewanhassan7320 thanks for watching! Guides are made from plastic. I would recommend OEM, or IWIS. IWIS is the manufacturer of the original timing chain, but it’s hard to find. Aftermarket kits can last but significantly weaker than oem, specifically the plastic guides
@@user-sp4yg7wh5k Great idea!!! I’m working on a setup as well for my x3 n57. I have the adapter that goes into the block ,now i need to buy the cabin pressure gauge. What oil pressure do you have at idle, fully warmed up, after 1 hour of driving?
Hey, @W15 Garage i have a bmw 528i 2014 with a n20 engine and i saw your video on changing the tensioner i want to change it as a preventitive maintenence do i need to lock the engine or i can just take the tensioner out and put new one in or i need to buy the camshaft locking tool.
I don’t, but since this method works so well, and the video is quite popular, I’m planning to record a video where I fix a rattling n47 with a new tensioner, then I will remove the engine and measure the timing chain length
@@W15Garage awesome, i am wanting to try this on my N57 engine in a 2010 BMW X5 30d, the chain noise I have is not a loud rattle it’s more of a rotational noise which happens while the engine is cold then goes away when warm.
It’s worth giving it a try. If the noise changes with warm or cold temperatures, it’s most likely the tensioner. If the chain is stretched, it will rattle continuously
@@W15Garage Fingers crossed it will help or at least prevent the issue from worsening, I have already ordered a tensioner, they are quite cheap only around $50. On the E70 X5 N57 it's difficult to reach from above so I will try from under the car.
Thank you for the solid content you provide! I watched the previous video and to be honest, even if the audio was bad when you cranked it, I seriously thought the valves were bent. The dissimilarity in sound did smoothed out in large portion, but still am totally surprised they are actually all equal. I wouldn't bother neither, if it has compression, it has compression. The only thing that can happen it that the valve stem would be so slightly bent, that it wouldn't keep up at high rpms, but still, you don't have to take the head off, to diagnose it. Keep it up, I see you as a true motorhead, and subbed :)!
Thanks for watching! Appreciate it. The way the car drives, idles, fuel economy it’s spot on. Could not be more happy with the outcome😀 Next one is a Water/Flood damaged
