You dont need to do half of that bro, no need to take the drive shaft out or calliper off or lower arm bolts etc. u can just undo the droplink, hub bolt and connectors. Get a hub spreader, spread the hub and slide the strut out, undo the top mount nuts and it will all fall out
Thanks for the comment bro, I did know about that way to do it but every time I tried it was always too difficult to lower the hub enough to get the shock out. I don’t know if I was doing anything wrong but seems like I never had enough leverage. I’ll defo try that way again next time though.
Nice work there! Especially for mentioning the dimension of the sockets used for the entire process. When you put the bearing back, did you tighthen the bolt to torque spec or just tightened it as hard as you could?
Disc comes off without taking the pad carrier off…. Yeah I battled to get them off too, vise grips and hammer as corrosion knackered the teeth of the bolt, well did on my 1.2 tsi
There is a metal shroud over the top of the drive shaft fixings gearbox end that needs to be removed/loosened before moving the shaft assembly to the left side
Great video. I have recently bought the same car. Knocking sound though only when reversing and turning wheel to the right. Makes the noise intermittently under passenger footwell. CV joints got replaced in Jan before I bought it. Is the change you did on this video different from changing the CV joint? Sorry if that makes no sense I have extremely limited knowledge of car mechanics. 😂
There are two cv joints I believe, inner and outer. I replaced the outer on mine but it ended up being the inner joint. So it’s best to do the whole drive shaft. I bought mine from GSF
Good on ya lad, my daughter considers me her mechanic but i haven’t got a clue. Very helpful. What causes this? Does it just wear out over time or has she been driving badly? HaHa
Tbh just over time and possibly hitting the kerb a few times 😂. Not a hard job though but good luck with it. Thanks for the comment and don’t forget to subscribe!
Thanks for this video, This is a job a need to tackle soon as on my last MOT it stated that one shock was "misting", which I take it is starting to leak but is still working. I will also get two new bump stops just in case. The bump stop on your car is not due to the failing shock though, that happens when the spring is compressed all the way. If you look at a shock it is easy to push in and hard to pull out, this is so that when you hit a bump the spring absorbs the impact, and the shock stops the spring from pushing back hard and bouncing the car. This keeps the wheel in contact with the road and makes for better and safer handling. Either you or another driver have been hitting speed bumps too fast, or with a heavy passenger in the front.
@@rayromych5534no, you can do it with only half of it off. Do everything in the video but don’t take it off from the inner pats. Just take the driveshaft out of the hub and you can replace the cv joint. Then put it back in to the hub and put everything back together like the hub bolt, track rod end, anti roll bar link and the lower control arm bolts.
Good overall video. Seems like it might be easier to just remove the wheel bearing (and replace it while you're at it) and slide it right out but maybe I'm missing something. Also, I find it easiest to loosen the axel hex bolt with the wheel still on, remove the center cap, and loosen it a bit, then when you get the wheel off it is much easier to deal with. BTW those axel bolts are a one-use item (Torque to Yield) and should be replaced every time it's disassembled AND I find that some cheaper off-brand parts have a longer bolt that may not meet spec.
He says what year and model at the beginning of the video but you need to check the exact fit regardless. There is also conflicting information on this half axel part from various suppliers as the part numbers have changed for Audi/VW over the last few years.
