Hello Dr Rob "The Honest Car Doctor" and I’m the Chief Surgeon here at IAC, and it is simply my goal to continue to help raise the level of Trust & Respect in Auto Repair! I will do this by continuing to perform detailed diagnostics, combined with honest communication to our customers, on just how complex it has become to diagnose and repair today's Crazy Complex Vehicles!
Dr Rob "The Honest Car Doctor" over and out...
Integrity Auto Care “Home Of The Honest Car Doctors” E -mail: RacerRob@IntegrityAutoCare.us Phone: 503-372-5224 Facebook: facebook.com/integrityautocareracerrob Informative Website: www.IntegrityAutoCare.us
Just gonna take a wild guess, and try to translate what @jamesdewer was asking: Was the problem because of the sensor, or was it because of wiring (short, open, loose connector, corrosion, etc)? And here's my take on why I assume Rob is correct for calling the shot on it being the sensor: Although he didn't go into (at least in this video) testing the integrity of the wiring harness, from the sensor to the computer, I'm pretty sure he would've actually done that (given that it's literally his specialty, dealing with electrical issues, and with his simple of a test it is). To test the wires, there's 2 simple methods: 1) disconnect the battery negative, unplug the sensor and the corresponding ECU connector(s), back probe a jumper wire between all terminals at the sensor (imagine snipping the connector off, stripping the wires, and wire nutting them all together... Minus the destructiveness 😅), and test for continuity and resistance at the ECU connector, remove the jumper wire, and test continuity again (keep in mind, not every car's ECU separates the grounds from the sensor grounds completely.. some older ones, especially, have a sensor ground location near the ECU, while the other grounds are on the head/block and frame. In that case the ECU sees and anticipates the slight difference in voltage... But, most cars ECU's DO have their sensor grounds DIRECTLY to the ECU, and the ECU shunts it however it sees fit. Basically, it doesn't want to see -12vDC. Sometimes they don't even want to see 0vDC! It possibly could want to see +1.5vDC on the sensor grounds.. the purpose of this, is that this regulated "ground" is very constant, compared to the fluctuating drops and spikes seen from all other grounds. The ECU compares the signal voltage ONLY to the sensor ground, so that it has a reliable (relatively constant) reference point to see the voltage difference... My point being, there's a chance that, without the jumper wire installed, you may OR may not have continuity between the ground lead and the sensor ground lead... Ideally, you would NOT see continuity). 2) disconnect the sensor connector and corresponding ECU connector, use a long length of wire to probe the sensor harness connector, bring the other end of the wire over by the ECU connector, and test for continuity.. repeat for each lead. The fact that the sensor will eventually warm up and function properly (throwing a code, most likely, that it took way too long for what the ECU expects), but not up to the correct temperature quick enough, SCREAMS the heater is blown... And although testing the wire integrity is a MUST, before throwing parts at a car, it's EXTREMELY likely to be the heater. The reasoning behind this, is that the heating element expands when operating (hot) and contracts when it's off (cold), which is basically bending a very fine metal back and forth every time the car turns on, then turns off.. eventually that metal will snap... Imagine a filament in an incandescent light bulb. I love when I stumble around back to Rob's videos. I usually already know exactly where he's going with his diagnosis, but (regardless of his videography and editing skills... Lol mine would be MUCH worse) he reminds me of how I need to explain myself in great detail, to friends and customers, in a way that I know for a FACT that they understand what/why/how I do what I do, or that when they don't understand, I need to slow down, back up, give examples in a way that works for them (for instance, I have to relate car stuff, to sewing machines and cooking recipes, when I'm talking to my mom 😂). He's a GREAT teacher! So much so, that he reminds me how I need to relearn the fact that half my job is explaining myself, to a curious person.... AKA teaching! Another thing that makes his history and schooling worthy of the title he has (a Master) is, that teachers can learn from masters how to teach, not just to remind them about what to teach. Another amazing person (I think Rob actually said he knows this guy, in another video, too) is Paul Danner, from @ScannerDanner. That guy is a Master, also, and it blows my mind how active he is in his field.. even as far as responding to his fans! Paul is a legend! Rob has me hooked on his stuff sometimes, because I SERIOUSLY want to buy that MT2500 for my 92 Hardbody and 95 Pathfinder lol, and when I'm doing work on em, I always revert back to Rob, to keep myself from going down those complicated paths by accident.
Ive had my head gaskets fixed, the thermostat, the transmission cooler, and now the head gasket sealed n its still overheating on a 2015 Mitsubishi outlander sports 😡
Read the comment I left, that I mentioned u in. I wasn't meaning to seem rude, at all! I mainly said what I said, because of how u worded the same question 2 times, but seemed kind of tough to say it correctly... But like I said to begin with, on my comment, it was just a wild guess. Feel free to correct me!
Quick question. I have the same stock Datsun truck, but it is a 1982. It won't pass smog because it is running lean. We tried to clean the carb but that did not quick do it. Any advice?
I have a mitsubishi Outlander 2007 v6 about 180k miles. My new engine got overheated because the radiator pipe got diconnected whilst i was driving. That overheating had me changing the top gasket, top cylinder and other things but its still yet to start or come back working. Now it is not starting and I have been on changing battery and even tried changing MAF sensor but still not working yet. Please help with any ideas. thank you.
KOOL...yes I bought this truck specifically so I could study up on and learn the complex electronic feedback carb. I'm pretty sure the carb was changed for a bad vacuum switch. Now it is time to master the Z24I TBI system.... :)
Very Kool! Yes electronically controlled carbs can be very finicky and take a great deal of patience and understanding to properly work on them! I bought this very truck so I could learn the Electronic Feedback Control System inside and out, and then be able to help our customers out here at The Car Doctor Shop! PS: THANK YOU for your wonderful tips on how to convert the carb version to EFI! You inspired me to do that as well......... :)
U don't have to take it out to check plug terminals....I did one today and could just reach down and unplug it....just being honest...I get what your saying but can access plug with ease
I Hope you are still active and help me. My just bought Nitro smells bad when I Turn an AC. So i wann to usw the Liqui Moly AC cleaner. Where would be the best place to spray and reach the Core? Would you just check out the Short Liqui Moly video to help? :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QDj889vxrL0.html
I need your help I have 04 Nissan Titan none of my lights on the back worked but I disconnect harness from behind right side door and fixed it so I thought all my lights now work except the brake light I've checked all fuses and relays and the turn signal use the same bulb as the brake. Can you please help me
Thank you so much for this video. I kept trying to figure out why my left signal wouldn't work once I plugged my trailer I'm. I have 2004 nissan titan I'm headed to go pick up my brand new trailer thanks you I won't have a problem with my lights. Thanks
Hello 805 ya this system is very basic and has no self diagnostics so you really need to have the correct knowledge and test equipment to make sure the computer is sending a signal, and the mixture control solenoid is actually responding. In the video I show how I used my Snap On Verus Pro with the built-in scope to monitor both the signal coming from the computer, and the 02 sensor to make sure the vehicle was in fuel control. That is the best way. DRTCD O&O
Hey man I have the same vehicle it over heats when the ac is on, when it’s idling longer than five minutes, when I’m going up hills I just spent 1400 on getting the crankshaft an sensor replaced with new belt an fuel pump idk what to do