Good thorough job I just did the same thing you did except I didn't use that green wire I just connected to three wires to it and I didn't get shocked or anything so I'm leaving it the way it is but you did an awesome job Thank you
After searching and searching finally the video i was looking for. The comments about connecting the white wire to the ground screw is good to know but my dryer did not have this white wire or a strip don't know if it got lost or removed when someone else installed the dryer previously or for whatever the reason it is not there and this video shows what to do if you don't have that wire,so THANK YOU THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO.
Who is Pablo? I’m still on the fence about the current situation, but Vakeck(spelling) is a curiosity to me. As retired Military (USCG Chief), I have been thinking about other options; but need some convincing.
Please check out pabloforpresident.com if you haven't already. That lays out Pablo's causes and issues he's passionate about. He's attempting to bring it back to the issues and away from the nonsense. He is a cat of the people, for the people. And with his running mate being a dog, Team Pablo is attempting to demonstrate ultimate unity and bipartisanship! We hope to have your support, but respect you no matter what your views. 😺👊 And thank you for stopping by and checking out our videos. More to come soon!
how many of these boards did u have to buy 1 x 6 x 8 treated lumber and what sizes drill bit you use to drill the holes into the boards and did u put bolts in the middle boards
I'd say if you know how to troubleshoot it to avoid replacing it, go for it, but be prepared to replace it as it's probably on the way out... but maybe not too... feel free to update us on what did or didn't work for you 😄👊
First of all, this video confirmed quite a bit of my questions, it was very helpful, thank you! just a suggestion, the carriage bolts should have a square part just under the head of the bolt. Make sure the hole that is being drilled is the size of the bolt and tight, and when you put it in the hole, the bold will stop when the square part hits the wood, take a hammer and slam it down, the square part will seat into the wood, and when you wrench down the nylon nut, it should hold enough to snug up tight. although it looks like you solutioned it in the end.
Liz you are the best explaining, comparing all the videos with the pros I pick yours the best. Easy to understand. OMG, you did a lot of research. Thank you Dearly!!!😘👏👍
Thanks. This is just the video I needed. Same situation. Modern equipment and old rental. Had no idea and it’s working out good.between the video and comments I’m all sorted out.
Sometimes the cost is worth the extra money, sometimes, not always. Do your due diligence in shopping, sometimes when you need it and they're the only ones who have it, that's your only option. However they do offer a 10% vet discount. I've also found good deals on ebay.
You can buy the tools to take those apart from that filter. It’s a little tool it looks like a half a circle have a new crumpet together to make it a whole circle around the metal pipe and then you go into the plastic fitting in an expense expands, it’s only like six bucks on Amazon and I’ll stop you from busting up the plastic parts
🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲♥️♥️♥️♥️🌎🌎🌎🍓🍓🤪 Liz made me fan when she hit the green jumper wire with a hammer. How many would like to see the woman behind the sexy voice? Just curious......
Thanks for the video really helped. Can’t wait to stop by the parts store mines been aggravating to drive for the last 2 years lol. High idle random rev bombs and it’s bad on the clutch to drop the rpms when it’s at 2500 and need to be at like 1000
Mind blown, the middle terminal and the wire mounted to the body is the same wire. Who ever hooked the 4 prong was wrong also. Taking the ground off and putting it on the middle terminal takes the ground off the body. That white wire is supposed to be on the body.
Gee... Sorry, but the original 4-wire configuration was totally correct as wired, and it reflects the primary reason that the industry evolved from 3-wire to 4-wire for dryers and ovens. In today's homes, neutrals (whites) must remain isolated from grounds (greens or bare copper) at all locations other than at the first electrical panel, typically your main panel. That smaller white wire is actually electrically connected to the center terminal (neutral) up inside the dryer, so the original electrician was simply connecting the small white wire back onto itself, thus preventing it from inadvertently contacting a hot wire or the dryer cabinet. Connecting the green wire to the cabinet grounds the latter while still maintaining isolation between ground and neutral, in conformance with today's version of the Nationl Electrical Code. Contined use of the less desirable 3-wire plugs is a concession by the NEC to avoid having to rewire tens of millions of dryer and oven receptacles in older homes.
@@josephknapick5307 sorry but you sound good, but you don't know what your talking about. That white wire is a harness that grounds to every panel in the dryer. by unplugging it your just taking the ground off of one of the most important panels- the metal box itself. fortcollinshabitat.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/DSC04216.jpg
No Gee... While you are correct that the white pigtail is indeed connected the the center (neutral) terminal, in a four-wire configuration connecting both the green wire and the white pigtail to the cabinet grounding screw violates the NEC. Ground and neutral are only permitted to be bonded together at the the "point of first disconnect", which is typically the main service panel in most homes. Downstream of that location, neutrals must be kept isolated from grounds. The NEC tolerates an exception to this rule for three-wire dryer and oven receptacles to avoid mass rewiring of homes that only have legacy three conductor 240 volt receptacles at these locations. Experienced electrical engineer here with a copy of the 2920 NEC Handbook on my coffee table. If you also have a copy I can send you "chapter and verse" references if you need them...
@@josephknapick5307 you obviously don't work on machine, or you would know that ground wire not only is bolted to the body throw-out the machine, so plugging it into itself is counter-intuitive. neutral and ground are always connected together. Those rules were being enforced until people realized that there paying all this money to change over there wall terminal and pigtail for no good reason at all. they were so hard up on making people change there terminals, Whirlpool even came out with a dryer that the 4 prong was built into the harness. That was wrong, but what ever makes an extra buck. So now the rule is in the book, but not being enforced, because it's a BS guideline .
Is the white wire found on the back of ALL dryers? Or only on new dryers? On another note, I'm disturbed by the amount of confusion that exists about this, and the number of times an expert has had to chime in here. The industry still has some catching up to do.
Good video. Just an FYI they make a heat shrink connector. So you don't need electrical tape an a hair dryer, heat gun or if your desperate a lighter will shrink it down tight around the wire.
Y'all stop the video at 16:53. If you look at the top of the center terminal you can see it (IS) the white wire (it loops behind the metal). So instead of looping it to ITSELF which is what is done by hooking the white to the bottom of the terminal it's already hooked to. Just hook it to the chassis or body of the dryer. (The green ground screw). In this case the green wire (she made) can be removed and take the white wire and hook it to the upper left green screw. No big deal but you didn't need to make the green jumper wire out of your 4 prong that you may need when you move.
I bought the same trailer from Tractor Supply instead of Lowe's for exactly the same reason. Plus I bought a matching spare, tire mount and a trailer tongue jack at he same time. Haven't decked mine yet but that's in the plans. I'm going to use treated decking boards like you did. Loved the video.
The white wire is called the "neutral", if you had examined the inside of your service box, you would see that both the ground (green) and the neutral (white) both attach to the bus bars that go to ground. They are both the same but code requires all the white (neutral) wires be on their own bus bar and the ground (green) wires be on their own bus bar. You did NOT have to cut off the green wire, it could have been screwed to the chassis (the hole in the the metal box, along with the eyelet of the white wire. It would not be a problem. You don't need to cut wires off. I applaud you for DIYing your electrical, but you need to learn more about wiring procedures for home electrical services.
Hey man, question, I replaced my heating element. When I plug everything back up, the back of the dryer sparked and jumped the fuse box in the garage. The machine would turn on without popping but only when you ran the dryer cycle, is when it popped. I couldn't not figure out what is causing this but noticed the heating element coils are touching the wire that runs to the sensor on the heating element. Could this touching of the coils be short circuiting the dryer? Never had an issue breaking down the dryer until I replaced the heating element.
HI, i have a kenmore 796.813 dryer. I have installed the 4 prong power wires. However there is a white and a yellow/green wire that I removed and i cant remember where it was connected.. Can you please assit me? thank you. Currently the 4 prong is connected with the green wire to the ground white to nuetral, and red on red , and black on black. Im missing the white neutral and yellow/green wire. thank you
