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Track Rekord was founded in 2019 by Kai Goddard and Andy Lee, two like minded professional racing drivers who saw a need for improved high performance driver education (HPDE).
Our primary focus is on individually tailored trackday coaching in your own car. Our goal is to make you a better, safer driver. Whether you are just starting out or a seasoned driver looking to find that elusive tenth of a second, we customize our approach to fit your goals and objectives. We share racing, driving excitement and education with enthusiasts worldwide. Our professional drivers teach the skills, secrets and techniques necessary for achieving envy inducing lap times, behind the wheel thrills and most importantly, track safety.
I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and experience with this job. I agree that paying the extra money for a better-quality tank is the better option.
Probably a dumb question on my part,but when you put the sensor and pipe back onto the new pump,does the pipe have 2 washers either side top and bottom? Ive just put the pipe back on and can only see one washer which is on top then the sensor on top of that.?
No question is a dumb question in my book! Yes, that fitting is what’s known as a banjo bolt and if requires two new crush washers - one on either side of the fitting on the hose. Hope that helps. If you don’t have both it will leak power steering fluid everywhere.
Thanks for the upload! I discovered that removing the secondary air pump (3 nuts, a hose, and the electric connector) let me get a good grip on the engine side hose clamps without special tools!
I'm enjoying your journey changing the IMS bearing. I am considering buying a Boxster and will likely change the IMS immediately as you are. By the way, if you always hit your head on the same spot on the lift, put a pad on that spot. It will be cheaper than a visit to the emergency room.
Hi, I love your systematical approach to this job as I do it for all my recent mechanical and electrical jobs on my PORSCHE cars. I have to do it in this afternoon on my 986 (5/1999 with 233.000 km).😁 The expansion tank is now about 170 € in the best OEM quality (Mahle/Behr). I was as well told, that this is a hard job even for experienced (PORSCHE) guys. With your video I'm looking forward to.... Greetz from Germany (in the vincinity of Zuffenhausen)
Thanks, definitely go with quality for the replacement tank, taking the cheap route meant I had to do the work 3 time, but at least I can do it quickly now! The final tank I got still needed some modification to stop the leaking
@trackrekord Even with the best OEM quality part, I had to modify the had to dip stick hole and as well the oil filler inlet. For this, I made a 3D printed template to cut/ to grind down the wall to 9.4 mm height. Now the fixture ring fits tight and after some treatment with a heat gun, all parts can be mounted without mechanical tension/stress
Looks like you weren't aware of the "active" mode which means it was off which defaults your handling and performance to "sport" mode which is one level down from that of track.
2 years in with my Kona Ultimate EV, I'd buy another tomorrow but all cars come with negatives here's what I"ve found. There's an enormous well at the bottom of the windshield, this fills with snow which then becomes ice and well, it's a pain. I bought a hood/windshield cover for $25. The 12 V is critical, while an ICE car will go without the 12 battery, not so the Kona. There is no way to tell the condition of the 12 V battery and if it starts to go, you're in trouble with the potential of getting stranded or worse. It appears there are "devices" operating from the 12 V battery that you don't know about, so taking care of this critical element of the car is ... hit or miss. I don't know what the size of cell phones are in Korea, but might does lie flat in the cell phone cubby hole, someone wasn't thinking. I thought I'd criticize the manual but every manual of every car I've owned has been awful, the Kona EV's no worse than average... Now, as has been mentioned in some of the comments, driving an EV is different, dealerships are awful at knowing how to transition people from ICE to EV. It would be a simple matter for the manufacturer to write netbased training program, but I suppose that would be too customer oriented.
Thanks for all that info! If you don’t mind could you post the name of company that repaired the screen. Somebody tried to steel mine so trim is broke and screen is shot. Thanks and have a great day.
You hit the nail on the head, the Porsche is more accessible, it's easier to go fast with relatively little seat time. The Z4M requires significantly more seat time to learn its eccentricities. The BMW will bite you if you screw up, the Porsche is more forgiving.
i have the same car. When I first bought the car, range is 300+ miles which is wrong. I believe the computer will learn the true range over time, which about 250. after a year+ of driving it. my total range is now 250. so there is no battery degradation.
I would agree with that - there was one “update” that the dealer did that seemed to upset the range, but after the 12v battery died and I replaced it the range calculations have settled in around 265 miles, which appears to be to be accurate, from our usage
I had to at least check! How is the high milage z4 M doing? I’ve looked at high mile ones over 200k miles and been scared. If they’re maintained, can they last over 300k miles??
It’s running great - if they are well maintained and not thrashed (particularly when cold) there is no reason why they cant last 300k miles. Rod bearings are a known weak point - mine were changed around 150k miles, I think, as a preventative measure and they looked fine. The VANOS is notorious for wear also, but serviceable.
Congrats on the trophy! Sounds like a wonderful cause that you're racing for. I always enjoy your VLOGs Steve, you have to do them more often 😂 Hopefully I'll be able to join you next time when my E36 isn't broken!
My experience transitioning out of the Navy was I felt I lost both community and purpose. It is surprising how working on a beater race car with a bunch of crusty vets can really give you both. Thank you for all the support you have given us!!!
Looking forward to it too - hopefully no rain this time. Yes we changed one of the hangers at Barber - what I found was two things - the exhaust as modified to remove the catalytic converter isn’t quite the shape it was before so it was misaligned at the back - putting lateral strain on the hangers, plus the wider tires on the 16” wheel was causing the tire to rub on the silencer, putting even more strain on the hanger. I managed to fix it by reversing the hardware so the hangers are more vertical. That exhaust weighs too much and is too quiet (some of the drivers said they couldn’t hear the engine), so that will be a modification in the near future!
out of all high speed stability changes I dont really mind the spoiler, cfd results have shown up to 60% or so in reduction of rear lift and for a short wheelbase car every bit helps, however, Im not a fan of audi messing with the suspension or adding esp, cars got less sharp, which is fine for the general masses I suppose, but disappointing for the enthusiasts. I have an early 99 apx 225ps coupe in black and absolutely love these cars. Steve, yours is a really nice example, if only mine was this good when got it. Ive done a fair amount of work to mine over the years, mainly lots of oem parts for reliability, but also some modifications to make it more focused keeping it as a dual purpose machine. I would highly recommend sourcing pre recall front control arms if possible, they use smaller front bushings as originally intended (I believe 30mm vs 45mm) same result can be achieved using metal inserts, for bushings I went with poly from a company in Poland called StrongFlex, also running monotube Bilstein B14 suspension, locally fabricated rear camber arms with heim joints, standard 14mm drilled arb raising the effective stiffness rate for the price of a couple good 10mm drill bits, lowering is kept to a minimum for roll center, I could go on and on, but you get the idea. In the near future plan on taking the car out for a lap in Nordschleife
Thanks for all the input, definitely food for thought - I am keeping this as a road car, I have plenty (my wife would say too many!) of track-focused cars, but I definitely want to sharpen up the handling. There is a clunk coming from the rear which needs addressing and the front upper shock mounts are clearly in need of replacement. But first of all I have coilovers to fit t my Boxster! Have fun at the Green Hell - I wish I was able to visit with one of my cars. Thanks also for the compliment on the car - I couldn’t believe the condition when I got it and I was prepared to pay more than I actually did in the auction.
Hey! I think i might have the same problem but i am not sure. Is the sound you’ve heard something like an” electric motor on effort” kinda thing? Because that’s what i hear in mine, does it all the time, but worse when turning.
Yup, that sounds like it could be the pump. Check the fluid level - if it is low the pump makes a grinding noise - usually just on turning, but if it is really low it will do it all the time
Wasn’t that fun? Unfortunately we adjusted the shocks for a wet set up and the person that did it didn’t realize that Konis adjust anti-clockwise to make them stiffer, so we were on the stiffest settings when we needed the opposite!
@@trackrekord we self sabotaged also. I had the bright idea to run mud and snow tires for our wet weather tires. 0/10 do not recommend 😆. #151 Popcorn's Revenge
Sounds like your choice was worse than ours - at least we had all season tires, but they were old and 400 wear index, so it was like driving on ice. We thought running a narrower, treaded tire would be the way to go. How wrong we were!
A very honest, sober yet inspiring "closer look" at this icon of automotive design - showcased by your lovely Mauritius blue example. Yes, it's not a bonafide sports car as you state, as it shares its underpinnings with some of its siblings, but isn't it just a sight to behold and a joy to drive? Yours just pops in Maurtius blue with its Aniseed yellow on black interior, and is in lovely condition. I feel the mk1 TT is a unique example of Bauhaus design and I can't imagine parting with mine any time soon - also a 2003, 225 that lives in Australia. Looking forward to more of your content.
Thanks, yes I am really glad I picked this one up - it’s got a couple of Nicks and scratches, but is otherwise in great shape, and I hadn’t seen this colour interior before. I agree, it is a beautiful design, and looks as fresh today as it did over 20 years ago.
The problem with the connector was I could push on it to release the tab, but then it wouldn’t come free - shoving the screwdriver in there was the last resort. At least if I get a warning light I will know why! You are probably right about the wrench, it’s just fiddly to get at without removing the hoses. The socket was my first guess!
Awesome video mate, I am considering buying one of these cars and will no doubt be doing this at one point in the future, even as preventative maintenance when it's time for a clutch
When I bought my Hyundai Kona it came with 248 max range it's a 2020 so it was 2 years old when I bought it. I've had to fast charge almost all the time I'm down to 216 at 100% it is winter time now
So I have to own a house for my car to last a significant amount of time because I don't have 8 hours to sit in the parking lot so I can charge my car before work. I wish they would tell you this type shit before you buy one smh
Great video! I’m getting ready to swap 3.2L into my 99 2.5L and was going to service and check IMS while engine is out. This is fantastic video to guide me. Thank you
That play is normal on a Lucas distributor. The drag of the points spring keeps it from being an issue, but sure can be with a pertronix installed that doesn't give the required drag.
