I'm Ramon Valdez...I've been woodworking for several decades. I'm passionate about sharing my processes & techniques and I'll show you quick & easy solutions to many woodworking related projects. Join me on this journey as I build this channel, let me know what topics you'd like to see, do me a huge favor and punch that subscribe button! I can guarantee that you'll learn something! As you interact and with your feedback, we’ll all learn something! Thank you tons!
Bonjour je possède un de vos pantorouteur depuis quelques années je souhaite faire des queues d’arronde sur un peigne DT1/2" mais je ne trouve pas la bonne taille de fraise pour réalisé le travail. Pourriez-vous me dire où me fournir les bonne référence de la fraise à utilisé pour cela ou m’en fournir une? Je resident en Belgique. D’avance merci pour votre aide. Cordialement Dominique
Bonjour, essayez ce lien ; www.pantorouter.com/getting-started/#how-to-guides ou envoyez un e-mail directement à Pantorouter ; info@pantorouter.com Merci, Ramon
Buying WD-40 in a can spray can is the most expensive way to buy it get a gallon and put it into a pump bottle or a drip bottle all part of the overall cost structure of a shop I would say
Another great video, Ramon. There are so many great tips in this video that I will want to watch it again. I also love blue tape and buy it by the case so I never run out. I need to start adding tabs like you showed since that will make it so much easier to remove. What are you getting for your new drill press? As you know, I'm a big fan of having a precision drill press. Thanks again for your time in putting together this great video. Cheers!!
Hey David! Once someone starts using tape as a .004” shim…it’s easy to see the advantages! I’m thinking of something with a DRO like the Nova Voyager. I need to do more research. Or a small milling machine would be good. Anyway…thank you always for your support !
Tip: If you don't have acetone, use accelerator to clean the blank before applying the first coat. Just be sure its completely dry (use a towel and then spin at high speed)
There must three sheets of particle board used up with that top, bottom and inside ribs. Can you not just glue together three boards and be done with it?
Excellent question and at first blush, that seems like an easier solution. When moisture from the glue gets added to one side of a panel it expands that side…creating a cupping effect. It’s true that double up or even tripled…that the forces should counteract and it would remain flat. I didn’t want to take the chance. After countless glue-ups using all types of glues and materials, this can be a touchy area. A torsion box can be made dead flat. If I remember correctly, this one had a dip in one small area about the thickness of a sheet of paper. I needed something like this to create my complicated table build. It proved to be completely worthwhile. Thanks a ton for the input. Cheers
@@ramonartful That's true about glue. I guess the ideal would just be three boards floating on top of each other then. I would lay three on top of each other and throw in a fat dowel through each corner to prevent lateral movement. It's surprisingly difficult to get a flat surface. I've never built one if these torsion boxes, and the thing worry about is that it's easy to get it wrong - a bit too much glue in one place and not enough in another; screwing down one board just a little too tight. It would kill me to go through all that effort and not have a perfect flat surface.
@@DavidLee-cw6ci Yeah, I did think about the process for a while prior to building it. One almost needs a dead flat surface to start! Fortunately ,my outfield table is quite flat, since it's also a torsion box! Anyway, this thing was kinda big at 62" square (1575 mm) and my brother ended up with it in his shop...he used it as a work surface. Perfect! thanks
I enjoyed this video! I’ve started making mallets and I’ve been wanting to incorporate metals into them. Also couldn’t hurt me to use aluminum in some jigs either!
Thanks for making all your videos! You’re an amazing woodworker! I loved the the creation of the tab tip on the blue tape. I’m definitely going to be using that tip.
This is a great technique~! I've not yet seen pieces made with exposed Dominos...very cool. Love the use of various hardwoods, as well as the Baltic Birch Ply. Definitely something I'm going to have to try~! Bro, love the things I learn from your videos~!! 👍👍
Sooo, what are you really saying....no groove, maybe?? LOL Too funny. I tend to agree with what you're showing regarding the floating bottom panel, but yes, so many ways to build drawer boxes. Love your videos~!!
Fantastic~!! I can't wait to try incorporating hidden features like this into a build piece (or pieces) of my own~! Would love to see further breakdowns or full build videos of yours~! Thanks for sharing~!
I do have one that I’ll be starting soon…maybe near the end of this year. I’ll document the progress…it’s gonna be super cool with a unique “key”! Thanks
Thanks a ton! Here’s a couple projects with those handles. Walnut & Wenge sideboard ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ocama_Exs4w.html Dresser & Night Stands Finished! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qdmj28dGYcc.html
I used a 3/8” diameter bullnose bit (carbide, 1/2” shank…no bearing). Here’s a YT video that you may find useful. Thank you! Beautiful, yet simple shop-made handles ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xpurc-SXs5U.html
Yep, you got it. It’s not exact but really close. (.004” x 4 = .016” and 1/64” is .015625” 😬) Close enough for woodworking! And it’s always the same. I use blue tape a lot so it’s always handy in my shop and super useful. Thanks a ton!
Just wanted to give you one of my plumber’s tricks that works epically for drilling glass as well. Use silly putty, plumbers putty, modeling clay, or play-doh to make a reservoir around the area where you will drill/cut. Mark the area with a waterproof marker first. Add water or other lubricants into the reserved area so it keeps the drill or abrasive cool and contains the particles removed. You can use a piece of wood with a larger hole and a rubber piece underneath or a bead of caulking (dried silicone?) and clamp it down to make a good multiple use unit. It’s how we drill aquariums as well
@@ramonartful nobody told me about that one until AFTER I had smoked several expensive diamond bits because I couldn’t keep a spray bottle going consistently enough
Genius rig for sharpening drill bits. The Tormek rig is $350. I already have your belt sander dock I built from your plans. Do you just match the angle of the drill bit and drill that into the block of wood?
It took a couple of tries but it needs to be a compound angle. I set the bevel of the countersink against a flat surface…then tried to measure the two angles. Got close, second time was a match. I used a Sharpie to make sure the angle matched. Works great! BTW, drill bits I sharpen by hand. Small ones are tricky for me but anything 3/16” (5mm) and up are quite easy.
@@ramonartful Thanks for letting me know how you did it. I'm going to try that out. I guess I could try sharpening the bits by hand, but looking at the chisels I've hand sharpened I think I'd have better luck with a jig.
Great tips Ramon, I use it on drill bits with a small flag as a depth stop , I use it to protect end grain splintering when cross cutting fragile hardwoods, also as a temporary zero clearance insert repair on my table saw, and as a layout barrier when plotting dovetails and tenons, I can remove the tape easier than a pencil line if I need to change the layout. I agree , there are hundreds of uses ! A very valuable asset in the shop.
@@johnburger3287Maybe try seeing if there's any stories of this happening on some woodworking forums, buddy. You'll be enlightened But yeah, you go right ahead and grind some metal in YOUR woodshop belt sander and have yourself a splendid day.
@@ramonartful Stories on woodworking forums like Sawmill Creek, Lumberjocks, etc. say otherwise. Best of luck, your insurance company's investigators will be checking your social media if you ever file a fire claim. Just sayin....
I recently got an automatic tape dispenser that will not only feed the tape, but it can be set to cut at a specific length! So now I’m getting the hang of grabbing it and creating a tab at the same time 😬. Thanks
Great question. Plywood can warp when veneer gets applied so consider this; You must add veneer to both sides, preferably at the same time. The veneer being applied should be the same species or at least something similar in grain pattern and characteristics of the face veneer. Water based glues will work but remember that this added moisture is what can cause problems. Epoxy is a good choice for large projects or when adding water based could be an issue. One should orient the grain direction 90° to the grain of the plywood substrate. I use a lot of water based glues for veneer but you must work fast and I always glue both front & back at the same time. Titebond works for smaller projects but remember, PVA glues (like Titebond) can move slightly later on. Joints can open so I only use that for small projects. Veneer glues are (usually) rigid bond. I like Pro Glue, Unibond and Better Bond X-press. Hope that helps
@@ramonartfulsome glue will not cure in a vacuum press will it? I was under the impression that PVA glue would not cure and would stay a sloppy mess and it requires a glue that doesn’t require air to cure.
@@liquidrockaquatics3900 I’ve heard that before as well but I’ve never seen that issue. I’ve used PVA probably more than any other glue in a vacuum bag. Zero issues with curing. Thanks
@@ramonartful thank you! I have never used a vacuum press or messed with veneer before, but that’s good to know. I have a repair to do to my MIL’s table top that kinda has me sweating because it’s the entire width of the leaf of a butterfly leaf dining table that had a plant left on it. Now there is a quarter inch gap in the leaf when it is opened.
It can be dangerous if a person were to use both fences at the same time. In other words, the edge of the sheet should only contact one fence or the other. In addition, the rip fence should be pulled back. That way, when a panel or section gets cut, it’s free to the right of the blade and won’t get trapped. Hope that helps. Thanks.
@@ramonartful Yes it helps. My dangerous idea was more that you could be easily above the sawblade with your arm when pushing the wood through. Do you also use the K3 with solid wood? I build more smaller furniture like sidetables etc. My current issue is squaring for example the top of a sidetable. On my dewalt that's nasty
Furniture builder 38 years, NEVER glue bottoms into drawers also raise panels in doors , their are supposed to foat in the 1/4 or 1/8 inch grove. All my drawers are dovetailed.
You may have missed my message. Floating SOLID WOOD drawer bottoms and floating SOLID WOOD raised panels should never be glued…you’re correct. I’ve built cabinets for 44 years and I’ve learned the flaws of MODERN methods where grooves are cut for drawer bottoms. Since most modern drawer bottoms are plywood, there is no need to allow for expansion/contraction. Same with dropped panel doors (plywood center panel). Glued into place creates a singe unit that is extremely strong! As an owner of a large shop and production manager in others…we routinely repaired or replaced all kinds of broken drawer boxes made by other shops or from factory cabinets. The main issue; weak material at the groove near the bottom edge. The methods I describe developed by my brother and I, completely eliminate that problem and we have literally made thousands of drawer boxes. It was not rare to build one commercial job with over 100 drawer boxes. And we did dozens upon dozens of jobs per year. In over 30 years in one shop, we did not have one single failure. Many architects would not spec dovetailed drawers, perhaps to reduce cost. No problem…we had a perfect solution for composite or plywood material to make drawer boxes that would last for decades. Thanks
That’s a beautiful shooting board. With all due respect if I were to build it, I would reverse the angle. Currently having the workpiece at an angle relative to the plane is navigating the angle of the blade in the plane which helps to slice through the board. Reversing the angle where the plane cuts down into the board would complement the angle of the blade and also force the wood down into the front stop block. Just my two cents. it is a beautiful shooting board and I’m sure it works great as is.
I’m not sure I understand. The downward pressure of the ramp holds the workpiece securely. In addition, the weight of my body pushing downhill makes it easier to hold and push the shooting plane forward. Let me know what I’m missing. Thanks
@@ramonartful Ramon, I wanted to see if it could be made so that the plane was cutting down into the board like a hand saw does. But after looking at a few other videos of boards like this one that showed different views so I could see it a bit better, I've come around to see what you've known. And that is it works great and as you mentioned the isn't enough to cause any problems that I might have been trying to solve. 🫤 I watched and implemented your belt sander/sanding technique on my last two bed builds, I can't thank you enough! I have more sanders than "Carter has pills", but I still find that I'm reaching for my Makita quite often when fast, flat sanding is needed. I just took some time to learn the "Goose-it" technique, and I was off to the races! My mother used the phrase as well. 😉 All the Best, Chuck.
I said this a few years ago but this is by far the most under rated & under appreciated channel on youtube. On a side note...a 3D printer might work very well in this instance too if you can 3D design fairly fast and just put the infill up to 100%. And if anybody doesn't know how to 3D model....don't worry....AI is coming and soon you will just be able to type in a box: 3 inch by 2 inch rectangle with 10 degree etc. etc.
Shoot…sorry about that. Google search “five cut method”…find one that’s applicable to your situation. Some are used for sliding table saws and others for crosscut sleds. But the method is the same and helps to dial in a perfectly cutting saw. Cheers
I'm also a pantorouter owner and furniture builder and have found many other ways to use the pantorouter to help with machining other things, Thank you for the project.
Another outstanding video, Ramon!! Great idea to use the cardboard and glue gun for the mockup. I love how you tell us your thought process as you go - I'm always talking to myself as I'm working 🙂 Thanks for the mention of my Fritz and Franz jig for cutting that taper. Excellent work on improving the dust collection. Keep up the great work.
I must get lonely and talking to myself not only helps with that, but also keeps me focused. 😁 I sometimes have good answers, but if I start arguing with myself, I know it's time to take a break!🤪 Thanks David!
Ramon, the thought and attention you've paid to designing and making these throatplates is most impressive. Just one thing you may wish to mention to your audience is the need for ensuring that before sawing the main and scoring blade slots, that they double-check the alignment of the two blades prior to mounting the new insert. If it's wrong beforehand, then it'll be wrong for the new insert.
Nice video. I saw the K3 winner last week at the dealer. I mainly use wood like oak and beech for small furniture (sidetables, dog benches etc). You say a few times, the sliding saw is mainly for sheet goods. Would I make a mistake if I buy one for my furniture?
That’s a great point and one I should have elaborated on a bit more. I use mine a lot when working on solid wood furniture. I prefer a 10” table saw for ripping but if I had to pick just one, it’s a slider all day long. It’s like having a cross cut sled on a smaller saw…but on steroids! Superbly accurate and extremely versatile! I should have said that they excel with sheet goods but can be used for both solid wood and sheets. Thanks
@@ramonartful ok. I think you are right about ripping. Standing left of the sliding saw can be a bit more difficult for ripping and using the fence maybe
Great to hear! Yeah, I catch a lot of flack over belt sanders. But once you get past the learning curve, they are simply amazing and extremely versatile! Cheers
I'm late to this and as nice as it is I can't justify it as I seldom use the rip fence for ripping, perhaps a couple of times a year. I looked at doing this about 6 years ago as I had all the stuff to do it using a touch screen but the way I use the saw is I rip on the slider using a Frits and Franz jig and the rip fence gets used as a bump stop only so I fitted a DRO on the rip fence head as DRO's are available for under $100 these days.
Yeah, I get it, it’s pricey. For me, cutting hundreds of parts constantly, I calibrate the TigerFence and cut away! Your method of using a DRO is a good one. It’s not for everyone but man…I gotta tell you, I love this thing. I can cut all sorts of different sized parts quickly. Yesterday, on another high caliber build, I needed a spacer that was 3.465”. Set the TS, made the cut. It was within .002”! Anyway, thanks for watching!
Ramon - just found your channel. Good vid - i have the same saw! Delta flubbed on this aspect to otherwise a decent prodcut. Been meaing to do a shroud-dust port, etc, but i've been using a different bandsaw . After the next project is done, i'm now re-inspired to fix this problem. Well done.
Great to hear! I made the shroud with the intention to add another dust port to it. But with the 4” down below, I was pleasantly surprised that it didn’t need it! I’m loving it. Cheers
@@ramonartful yes, don't think the extra port has to be added either. love these older machines, but not to convinced that dust collection was on the engineer's top-list to incorporate. collector in the bottom wheel was the ticket. also added a small, high intensity mag lite to mine too. (see you added illumination). Easy to rotate to what-ever line of site. Keep up good vids - i subscribed.
Nice! I’ve been meaning to move mine down. The person who modded mine put the port up at the top (maybe for flow?) but it all collects at the bottom. I like your diversion box idea.
I’ve tried a bunch and realize that not all neodymium magnets are creates equal! My only source is KJ Magnetics. No affiliation, btw. They’re just well made. Other brands crack easily. All rare earth magnets can crack but these are fantastic! Cheers
@@ramonartful Thanks for the tip. I recommend your channel to any woodworkers I know. You should have a million subscribers. Quality is always excellent.
Have to add another comment. Your number one tip of all time which displaces the previous number one "plastics" (line from The graduate-1967 Dustin Hoffman, Anne Bancroft etal).Your use of magnets to hold your pencil to your chest. Changed my life.Finally no more broken lead in pockets, place it anywhere you want, no look placement, use it on any shirt. Brilliant.
@@Mark-jd1fr Ha! Thanks! I got tired of ruining my shirts...and I always had to use both hands to clip/unclip my pencils. 20 plus years ago I started using magnets for my pencils...took me a bit to dial in the size that I like. 1/8" thick x 1/2" round works. Anyway, thanks for the good words!
