I'm Chris and I make high quality, concise repair guides along with discussions, complaining about manufacturers and botched repairs. And I review stuff, rarely.
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I know this is an older video but while it’s open, what upgrades could I do? Like can I make it work on the tv? Can I add internal memory? Can I change out cooling fans for a better one? What can be done? Also, could I somehow hack it to play ps2 games? Xbox etc. ??? I have a spare system I can play with so I figure it’s worth frankensteining it to be more than just a switch lite
@@Ssargent888 not a whole lot without some serious soldering skills. You could install a modchip. Check out Chase Fournier on RU-vid, he does a few switch hacks!
@@dotnetdevni no, they have little RFID tags on their spools that tell the AMS which filament it is, but unlike Makerbot or some others it doesn’t “run out” and it can be reused. You can’t make your own RFID tags, so that part is kind of like DRM. But it definitely isn’t required.
@@dotnetdevni I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, the screen doesn’t have to be physically connected to the printer, you could always run it off a USB wall charger or similar.
@@whoisntwhoisit2126 I love iFixit, they definitely inspired me to make videos. But the problem was their guides and teardowns can be really long and have too much information, I just want the meat and bones! Quick and to the point is how I like guides!
@@Kolgezen eh, I use it quite a bit because it’s faster than the computer when setting filament types, but aside from that I don’t see a real need for it
That's flux, and it is very important for soldering. It prevents the solder from oxidizing too quickly which would result in a dry, cracked solder joint. It also provides surface tension for the solder, which keeps it from smearing or "spiking" when you pull the iron away. Most solder has a flux core, where the center of the solder strand is filled with a small amount of flux. Unfortunately with this repair that flux is already burned away, so adding more is pretty important.
i have problem with nebula camera - i get in kipper console errors: Communication timeout while homing Z and all stuck (and same issues randomly in prints) some days working fine with camera working - some days not; i disconnect it and work fine all times; cable is not damaged, after connecting to pc cam working fine for days any ideas what to improve/check to fix that problem permanently? ender 3v2 4.2.7 i think it's a voltage from usb problem (when i measure voltage is under 5v) but how to increase it? errors like: {"code":"key21", "msg":"Communication timeout during homing z", "values": ["z"]}
Hi, great video. can you please redo the test but this time, supposedly the best way to remove them is to dunk the whole thing in warm water for 24 hours (lol I know)
@@trickpixel I’m way too impatient to wait for that! I did try a good 12 hour soak of some of the support material but it made almost no effect. Might redo this video with even more testing based on the comments I’ve gotten
@@tevinblair7242 return it or exchange it for the correct part. Make sure the product doesn’t say “glass only” and look at the pictures to make sure it comes with the display and frame.
My brother recently broke his and the closest computer shop wants about the same price as the console to repair it, and I'm like alright let me do this myself, and the tutorial helped alot :)
@@cshodges916 if you want to have any 5G service they are pretty important. You may be able to get away with one missing but service might be slightly spotty or weaker
I would offer one more suggestion that helped me print better with this material. Purge values; this helped reduce the mixing of materials at the interface and prevented my models from developing weak spots from cross material contamination. Using a value of 750 switching to and from “support pla” material made the model quality similar to my build plate and the interface peeled off without tools (although with more force needed then a petg interface)
Remove it with the help of a heat gun. Then its as good as PETG. However, the PETG may cause colour irregularities along the layers where the support PETG is printed. You would not find this problem with the support material
Let me tell you something... taking out those black screws was like trying to pick up Thors hammer. lol THEM things was TIGHT Update: Step one is acquiring gloves, made my life way easier.
@@TapticDigital you are i’ve blasted 1000C heat on this thing and it won’t move an inch I threw the board in rage and bent my tweezers cuz of it I’m not doing it I’m done idc anymore
Be aware there are 2 products for PLA supports from Bambu Lab! One is pretty old (came with the printer) and does not work very good. Seems like you have that. And the new one just works. Link to their website is broken right now else I would put the link in here.
@@DanielSchweinert I still need to try their new version and see if it actually works, until then I’ve been pretty happy with PETG as a support interface
@@scottloudermilk427 yeah this was back when I was mostly making videos to train other technicians still and not expecting them to blow up, getting into a back glass was unfortunately a separate tutorial. My newer videos are more inclusive, not that it really helps you in this situation. 🤷♂️
