@@nounoufriend1442 Yes it is, and mine never used to waver around either 😕 I sent it for repair once and was told that there was absolutely nothing wrong with it 🙄
Having you speedo calibration a little slow maybe a good thing. It means you can drive to the apparent speed limit on your speedo without actually speeding. Also the odometer will register distances a little further than actual so you have a little leeway on your service intervals.
A great video Adrian. Yes the tapered pin is for the VG, the VH should have a Parallel pin, that's why it didn't fit the flywheels, what engineer fitted that. That's exactly what my last 2 Alpha big ends looked like after about 3000 miles and 5000 miles, in 2 different engines. The notch in the footrest boss is to stop the footrest from slipping round when your body weight is on it, and needs to be fitted before the cases go on, the big washer welded to it is to give the footrest tube support to stop it bending downwards. Yours has been modified by the same person that did the Big End, who fitted the cases and clutch first, and couldn't be bothered to take the cases off again.
@@t20racerman Not sure if you found my Ariel big end video, but the type of wear to one side of the pin is identical, and this happened to 2 brand new Alpha units.
My bike was used for trials competitions many years ago and the modified footpeg, and cut out inner timing case, were, I think, so that the gearing could be changed quickly
I bought mine new for £281.1.10p I still have it. I think I will get around to start it again after having to fit new T250 big ends and pistons. The oil pump/ cable fitting is the only thing I need now but I refuse to pa 60 dollars for a secondhand one off eBay.
@@GWAYGWAY1 Definitely worth getting it going again. You can make your own connection with a bit of ingenuity - I've seen a few different ones that worked ok
Impressive stuff, 2nd kick start well smart, bottom. end work never nice and easy,, great vids, very real world, thanks for sharing your journey, learnt a lot, cool bike, glad you got it sorted. I always inspect and dump my first start up oil asap
What a great video. Excellent camera work and editing, a pleasure to watch with all the lucid explanations and demonstrations. It just goes to show how things can be hacked together in ignorance and operate just long enough to find a new home where they'll be given the love and attention they deserve. Hope you get many happy years out of the resurrected Ariel trials bike.
Iv`e just replaced the o rings on the lever arm and cover, measured them and ordered off eBay. My 1966 model has an E clip to retain the shaft where yours has a bronze bush. Looking at your shaft it has the groove for the E clip ?? Very helpful video, Thank you.
Thanks for that, I remember the super six coming out when I was a teenager, I loved it then and still do now so if it doesn’t sell I may have just the spot for it. Good luck with the Ariel, smashing bike and excellent workmanship, good to see
@@jimatt147 Thank you. Glad you enjoyed my video. 😊 Might have a buyer for my T20 race bike - would love to keep it, but it should be on the track. I'll shed a tear when it goes 😢
Nice one! I like the way you owned up to forgetting the spark plug. I haven't forgotten the plug before but I have forgotten the plug lead (D'OH!). Lovely bike, those old Ariels are beautiful.
@@williamnethercott4364 I make honest videos, with no pretence of being an expert, and forgetting to put the plug in made me laugh - so I had to share it 🤣 Yes, lovely old bikes. I'll do a video on my 1929 Ariel in September (busy before then) - a guide round it followed by a ride. That's a lovely bike to ride too - and surprisingly practical for a 95 year old bike!
Given two different studs of different diameter and pitch, and knowing the torque for one, call it A, then torque for B = (diameter A/diameter B) *(pitchB/pitchA). (yes I know it's pitch circle not diameter but this is good enough) So if you go from 26tpi to 1.5mm metric coarse, the torque required is 50% greater. That's assuming that the threads and stud are oil free, of course. If lubricated, the torque needs to be reduced by around 20% or so. John Cadogan did an entire video on it. Of course it's better to use metric fine if you can get it, which is about equal to the UNF or the cycle thread.
@@Turnipstalk That makes a lot of sense. I had to use the thread that was there as the previous owner had drilled and tapped the holes oversize. Looks metric but is actually a BSF size. Seems pretty oil tight so far. Off to do some more miles this morning
My Uncle had a magnet in a thick plastic bag cliped to under the oil tank lid and suspended in the oil, he remove bag from tank roll bag of magnet any metal particles came away wìth bag all was cleaned and put back. He always said it gives you a idea what the engine is doing inside.
Hi Adrian, I do think you were absolutely correct with your decision on torquing the head. Fancy forgetting the plug 😊. I have a Thompson T20 Super Six for sale, always been a race bike, never registered, where do you think I should advertise it, I thought maybe Classic Racer. Thank you in advance. Regards, Steve Cooper
@@jimatt147 Easy to forget... 😂 T20 race bikes have plummeted in value recently, sadly. You could try Classic Racer, but you'll find it difficult to move on. The class has all but disappeared in racing, so people aren't buying - as I've found with mine. H&H auctions might be interested in selling it, but then there's fees of 10% plus VAT. No easy option, sorry
That brass bearing sleeve night not be as long-lived as one made out of steel.... Those flapping chains... can you adapt a modern plastic cam chain tensioner system to stop the flapping (an older Lada engine spring only cam chain tensioner might be of help)
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk The sleeve is a tight interference fit and holds the bearing very firmly so won't have the opportunity to wear or come loose. As for the chains, as long as you keep the tension correct, they are fine as designed. It's only when neglected that they cause a problem. On my BSA I've replaced the primary chain and dynamo chain with modern belt drives. Much better, and quieter too. 😊
You saying about the different setups for advance and retard levers reminded me of a Furry Teeth run (you were probably there) on my BSA A7SS. On that bike the cable was tight for full advance but that day the centre screw for the lever must have worked loose. The lever kept working its way to retard and the bike would slow down. As usual I didn't know the route so had to keep up. I ended up doing the whole ride to Wales or wherever with one hand on the throttle and the other on the advance lever!
@@Phiyedough Ha ha, the joy of Brit bikes. 😊 When I first got the Ariel I tried to set up the timing assuming that the mag rotated clockwise, and full advance was loose cable. I couldn't have got it more wrong! Suffice to stay, it wouldn't start! 🤣
Nice job, my first bike was a 350 with girder fork. I may suggest that if you go green laining you use a folding kick start as it's not very nice to catch your calf on the fixed k/s. Would just set it off. thanks
Thanks for the ride! Makes me excited to get mine back on the road. Im currently working on restoring a 660 smc engine from 2005. Is there anyway i can ask you some questions about it?
I bought myself a ktm 520 a couple months back, it's registered at 13hp making over 60 with the correct carb and airbox setup, KTM had a tendency to do these things in the 2000s. Very similar in the feature department with mine only coming with a bicycle speedometer hooked up to the battery. the electric start rfs KTMs are still down around 40lbs compared to the lc4 bikes. lovely video on the 660, have fun.
A good question. The vile stripper was put in an empty tin, sealed and put in the bin. I still have the rust remover in its original container, which says on it, 'dispose of safely' but doesn't say how! The reusable etcher is also back in its original container. Might phone Frost, who supplied them, for advice.
What a bloody job I have used Petseal a few times about 6 years ago, one tank has flakes floating about and needs doing. The other tank an old Triumph is still as good as day one.
My BSA A10 tank was treated with Petseal in the '80s and it's been dissolving and peeling off, blocking the tap & carb, for the past few years. It was a brilliant solution, wrecked by the bloody ethanol in petrol 😭
I purchased an x Bracken track bike 04 i believe, now having been seriously into mx since buying a bsa 441 victor Gp while at school 1970 and racing lots of big two-strokes maico included also racing Martin Hagons 500Jap on meth, Obviously im a single cylinder nut ive tried most modern road bikes and fourstroke dirt, being a bike tech 50 yrs i can honestly say the smc 660 gave me the best mid range power ive manage to find throughout my years as in motocross trail grass mine had full titanium system triple com tyres full power i believe on Dyno we got more than 60hp the whole machine was bloody brilliant and i wish i didn't sell it , it wouldn't suit everyone thing's like getting hot and vibration might put some off but as ex racer i knew what to expect , perfect Blatter ❤
They really are wonderful bikes that almost no one seems to know about. Loved mine. Had it for 9 years but recently sold it as I was not using it much and needed the space in my garage for a vintage bike I'd bought. It was a fun 9 years 😁
I have a bsa b33 that's bored and stroked to 600cc it once had a rev counter drive on the side cover , so it has a cover plate on there , I took it off the other day , wow talk about windage , it has also has a breather tube on inlet rocker cover but looks way to small about ⅛ I think , I'm going to make a breather tank and add bigger hoses , might help all the gaskets, under pressure . Cheers
What a great bike...and sound ! I've been looking at A10's for a few-years...feeling the-call ! They aren't cheap in NZ , I would have to sell my highly-modded yam XS-2 cafe' and my mint W650 in-order to buy one . Even-then , there would be no-guarantee that it wouldn;t need some serious 'Sorting' . English-bikes are a lot-cheaper in Britain and The-States , you can almost import-one for less than here which doesn't make a lot of sense Dave nz
I do not even miss mine everyday. But just now, watching this video, I sure did miss mine!! Such a Spartan hooligan, and that always self-destructing stator. I want one again! Must close video ... must forget ... I am too old and fragile ... 😅🤣
Nice video. Though you didn't mention about removing pistons before splitting crankcase. When taking apart two faulty engines I noticed that there was no head gaskets. Thanks for mention it's not needed. One of the engines had a locked up gearbox and the other had a three piece conrod. Scrapped the crankcase, a piston and a pair of teeth on third gear. Hopefully ready to race now.
