You can actually see or something has hit the window you can actually see where something has hit the window left side middle where all the glasses shattering out from maybe a baseball something hit it and shattered it. Whatever it is is somewhat round if you have outside security cameras I would check and see if maybe a neighbor's kid hit your window with a baseball or a softball or a golf ball even it doesn't mean that it has to leave a mark on the window it just has to hit it hard enough to shatter it
So you are saying that heat broke your window? I live in the desert in Southern California, our average is 112 to 118 degrees and we have never seen a window crack because of heat even on the vehicles we have that are from the 50s still have the stock windows in it that have been in the desert this whole time, did you think maybe something broke inside your car and popped up and cracked the window?
It’s doable, Ive done mine with leaving everything in, just drained my coolant from the coolant hose that links up to the radiator. Slowly pop out that coolant line to the turbo and screw on the new fitting back on & pop your coolant line back on. Flat screw driver was my best friend trying to line back up the coolant line to the turbo & fitting. Measure the coolant that came out & Fill it back up with what was drained.
Do you know a way to get codes from the ECU. Maybe that can point you in the right direction. remember it can also be a computer problem. Good luck. 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Completely normal for the t5 to scrape going into reverse. They don't have reverse synchros. Just shift into any other gear prior to going to reverse and it should disappear. Just came across your channel and subscribed. Good stuff!
Hey thanks for subbing! Yeah it pops out of gear in second and grinds going into third as well. I want to do a rebuild on it but low on the priority list at the moment
I just got the drum brakes a few days ago so once I get those installed and get everything bled I’ll evaluate if I need anything bigger/better. Good thing is I have plenty of room so shouldn’t be a huge issue if I need to upgrade to something bigger
Is it possible to cut the steel lines from block to turbo. Use different fittings at both sides to accommodate a flexible line with flared fittings? I guess the only thing is to figure out what line can withstand the high temps. There must be an easier way. I'm getting ready to tackle my truck.
Wish I could have gotten a little truck like this when I was living down in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. Love little 4 cylinder trucks and cars. What more would ya need?
I can but the problem with this manifold is the turbo and manifold are one piece so can’t orientate the turbo forward. Future state I’ll probably get a BEW manifold and a different turbo setup. But right now trying to be very budget conscious
Projects like this are basically the goals of my channel. I just have other work that I need to get done before I can get to some projects like this But I have a 71 challenger I’m going to do a seriously lengthy restoration! Glad to have found your channel
I'm doing '94 sn95 spindles conversion on my '84 and I can't seem to find a definitive answer on what inner and outer tie rod ends to use. Any help is appreciated. I'm building the car for drag racing, if that makes any difference. I didn't watch the whole video, maybe you answered my question already. I'm seeing people saying that the fox tie rods are too short, not allowing enough thread engagement of the outer tie rod end.
Hey! I just went on rock auto to confirm and you have the exact same inner and outer that I have on my foxbody. I was able to use the factory foxbody inner and outer tie rods without issue. Personally, if you’re making a drag car, I’d get a bumpsteer kit and go from there. My turbo fox uses a foxbody length flaming river manual rack and a bumpsteer kit on sn95 (new edge) spindles. Hope this helps
Yes I ordered sn95 rear shock so they would fit appropriately in the shock bracket. You can easily modify the bracket as well as the front spindle to put in foxbody stuff if you have it available. But I took the easy route. www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/ford/mustang/parts/90L007.html for the e brake cable. They also have on LMR for twice the price
Did you get the 3/4 length socket set I recommended? I want to say they were $20 from harbor freight. I’ve actually been using the set for almost everything recently.
Thanks man i been told that wouldn't work time and time again the 96-04 swap i also got a v6 parts car for 200 bucks a 2001 i want to swap the brakes and rear-end over to my 87 mustang
It works just fine. The only thing I didn’t really capture in the video is the brake lines. Swap the old foxbody lines, cut and flare the lines so that they fit the caliper brake lines. The 2001 rear end will be a total 1.5 inches wider so if you’re wanting really flush wheels might have to do some fender rolling etc.
I think you have to switch the brake booster to a cobra brake booster. To stop alittle better. The 4cylider booster don't have the correct vacuum or pressure for those disc brake.
@kennyrodriguez8328 my v6 booster sprung a leak, tossed in my 4 cyl and it's barely a difference. I have new edge gt front and back brakes. He'll be fine
@@travisy7861 if I decided to upgrade from here I’d probably go with a hydroboost setup but this is just a daily driver for now. It stops on a dime without issues!
Unfortunately the bug was just good for parts because it didn’t have a title and was damaged in the rear. I think you have a cool idea though. I would like to get my hands on a Karman Ghia at some point
@88fox I've been wanting to turn a Karman Gia into a Baja bug sort of thing for years, I just never found that I wouldn't feel guilty for doing that, and a convertible bug also.
@@88fox I think it would be something that viewers would love to see, and maybe ste a new trend. I know I'd love to see it. It would be one of a kind. 😊
