Hey Bro Im in the middle of that delema too. Broke a bolt, had order some more a few days ago, Hope I dont break it again? Thank God I did get the bolt out. But Yes I looked inside the ports and a ton of oil on the intake valves.
I have the same unit. Do you experience excessive heat coming from the left side? I sure do. I need to wear knee-high boots on my left leg to keep the excessive heat from melting my flesh.
Yeah dude I changed to heavy duty BMR end links and it never went away. Once the coil over was replaced problem solved. I heard if you take the coil over alert and tighten then nut inside that fixes the problem but I was to scared to try plus I had warranty. Good luck
Hey man! Just wondering if you ever resolved your clunk issue? I just got a 2017 ZL1.. 20K miles.. and 1 week after I got it I started hearing a clunk noise (minimal) now is more often.. with smaller bumps.. but annoying.. i hear alot of people have issues with the end links until I saw this video . And I'm scared this could be my issue also.
@@nbankxworld8614 thanks for ur reply, Then why would u add another catch can? Why doent it catch the oil vapors so we need to install aftermarket catch can? Regards
@@duasobA when you I took the supercharger lid off I still had oil in there And it shouldn’t be oil there. That’s the reason for the additional can. Most people install another can to keep oil off the cooling bricks inside the supercharger.
Nice rig!! I got a 2001 f2shity 7.tree..all original Michigan truck over 720 thousand miles works construction and plowed every winter of its life...still stroking and purrs like a kitten...13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made.. remember dodge means to avoid...put hot shots secret in diesel fuel a few times a month keeps injectors clean
I'm on fence 6.2 or 6.7 I tow a 17foot double axel cargo trailer go out to the rockies one a year just not sure what I need thanks for the info it was very helpful
Hey bud glad the dogs weren't loose and hostile. I got a question for you. I'm not sure how long you've had your Brute Force but I just recently purchased a used one and I was in the process of changing the rear spark plug and I was getting ready to take the battery out and before I could detach the positive and negative terminals from the battery it slipped out of my hand and made contact with the metal frame of the bike. I heard a small electrical distortion but didn't think much of it other than I thought I had blown some fuses but that's not it. When I got ready to start the bike the push start button didn't work and the light switch didn't work either. The fuel pump doesn't come on anymore either when I turn on the ignition. The only thing that immediately comes on now is the fan and the belt light was flashing but I was able to reset it but the FI indicator is still flashing. I was able to take the fuel pump relay out so I could test the fuel pump to see if it still works with a jumper wire. It only comes on if I run the jumper wire directly to the positive battery terminal. When I connect it that way mysteriously the push start button and the light switch regain function. It's as if the power is working in reverse but as soon as I remove the jumper wire I've got nothing. I also noticed that if I move and bend my rear spark plug coil while it's connected to the spark plug it will cut all the electrical power off and shut down the entire bike altogether. How that is possible is beyond me and I'm not sure why that would even happen unless the ECU is setup to shut things down that malfunction. All I know is I need some guidance on this issue. If you know anything about what you think could have happened to my bike I'd appreciate any insight you may have to offer to help me get it going again. In either case I appreciate you and continue to enjoy life on the trails.👍😎👌
I’m not that technical when it comes to the wiring of these quads. I would definitely take it to a shop to find out what’s going on with it. Sorry I couldn’t help.
@@nbankxworld8614 It's cool bud I stripped all the plastic off after I confirmed with a buddy's BF750 that my ecu's we're still good that was a relief. I ended up swapping out the entire wire harness two days ago and now my bike is back to normal and running better than ever. It was down for six months and I had been upset about it because I had just got the bike so I lost interest in it. I'm just glad I was able to do the work myself and more than likely saved myself a ton of money in the process.👍😎😳
@@nbankxworld8614 Yes I'm very happy with the results more than that I feel more confident now about owning the bike and being able to work on it myself if I need to.👍😎👌
Good to see everything coming together! I know you’ve had some tough luck lately but I’m glad Chevy has been really good at getting everything dialed in. More smiles per gallon! As a ZLE owner, the single mod that gave me the most bang for the buck was the Katech LT4 Ported Throttle Body. It replaces our stock throttle body (which is the same as what GM has in their diesel trucks). The PTB removes any off the line hesitation or bogging, makes the clutch action very smooth. The throttle response is 50% better. Best part - cheap, very easy to install, no tune and no CEL.
Nice truck, great video! I just bought a 2019 F250 gas and stumbled across this vid while looking for programmers and exhaust to increase the Mpgs. Any ideas? Thanks!!👍👍
Thank you! Great video as I am also considering it. I would also like to see a video of how to get more negative camber in the front by loosening strut knuckle bolts and pushing the hub in. No one has done a video of it. With the ZLE, only videos online are how the strut hat is turned to get track camber.
Im considering these on my ZL1. I HATE the brake dust on the OEM pads. Have you had a chance to drive around on them yet? How they stop? How ia the dust?
They stop perfectly fine. I can’t tell a difference from the OEM pads. If you track your car you might see a difference in the long run but for street use it won’t be a problem. The brake dust is night a day difference. No more cleaning your wheels every time you stop. Definitely worth it for under $200 combined for front and back.
@@nbankxworld8614 SOLD!!! LOL! Thanks man. I don't track my car its just a street car so I don't care about track performance. Tired of cleaning these wheels and then get to the destination and they dirty again!
@@nbankxworld8614 I am currently waiting for a 2023 zl1 1le to be built. Great video definitely something that would bother me too. Was just wondering where u might have bought the ceramic brake shoes from.
I honestly don’t know. They said they are rated for high horsepower cars. My only problem with the factory brembo pads are that they have copper in them and not only do they give off tons of dust but the dust destroys the finish on the back of the wheel.
I haven’t been riding in a while. I sold my Brute and currently looking for something different. I definitely can hit you up when I get back out there.
