I have the same car but not the problem yet. But I really hope to get it after watching this video. Really great documentation of the issue and solution. Thanks!
Telsa's own service manual states, "Apply approximately 1 gram of Molykote M-77 Lubricant Paste only to the hub mating face on the outboard side of the LH rear drive unit halfshaft." There is a special note: "CAUTION Do not apply any lubricant to the halfshaft splines. If lubricant is mistakenly applied, wipe the splines clean with a shop towel." So seems like apply to the backside where the two surfaces mate, but NOT on the splines
Very informative. Thanks! I was looking at a used Model 3 recently and I found the headrest position absolutely unbearable. I'm stunned that more people haven't/don't complain about this. I'm a 6'0" 177 pound male who likes to sit up straight and not have my neck pushed into a position that requires chiropractic treatment after each drive.
This design is similar to how the Land Rover hitch system works on LR3/4/Range Rover Sport. I think LR does it better since there is no play in hitch once it is latched into the frame. Also, LR delivers all their vehicles from the factory with the frame in place, you only need to buy the adapters.
It was solved in the same way through the video a while ago. Even if I hit the shaft shaft with a hammer, it didn't go in as easily as the video, but after retracting to some extent, I reassembled it through cleaning and Guris, and the noise disappeared. thank you 🙏🏻
Hey, I was wondering if that wire would supply a 12volt current until the car goes to sleep like anything plugged into my center console. I’m trying to have my accessory turn off after I exit the car so if they supply’s power until car goes to sleep rather then occupant has left then I can’t use this?
This video is AWESOME. I am so frustrated at the horrible angle and stiffness of my MY front seat headrests. I'm going to try the flip around technique I read in the comments below and hope it works. Your bar bending technique is very helpful, but I would still love the rest to be at least flush with the back. Anyway, off to try this now..!
For everyone contemplating doing this, I just want it to be known my experience, 2020 Model Y all I did was (with the car on the ground and the wheel still on) 32mm 6 point socket for the axel nut, breaker bar to remove the nut put some WD40 on it and put it back on (I didn’t use a torque wrench I probably over torqued the hell out of it) but it is not clicking at all any more. Maybe worth just taking the nut off for a sec and torquing it back to spec before trying the moly paste
I'm a school band player and it sounds good the problem is that they're a bit off time dont have the complete opening and are a bit slower their percussion is not strong/forte and instead is a piano or medio forte.
I'm getting my head around the idea of getting two red or RGB projectors to kind of create an ambient light. Just so you can see you hand in the dark when you have to type something
Fantastic instructional. So many ways to do things. I'm in the process of either adding a new 12v plug in the center console by the two usb's up front. My wireless charger is worthless using those 1.4a (7w)usb A plugs. My thought are to just relocate the original 12v plug into that area. I just need that with a usb plug that outputs 14w x 2 with quick charge 3.0. Having problems with SentryMode videos loading slowly. This HUB Im currently using goes from the 2 usb A(1.4a or 7w) to 3 USB A, 2 USB C, It's trying to split whatever power it has to the wireless charger, Plus my samsung t5 SSD....So with 12v by those 2 USB A. And a 12v plug with 2 USB female slots that do quick charge 3.0 x 14w+ that would use all the wireless charger capability and leave those two USB A's for SentryCam USB and whatever else I need the other one for.
