Either class would be okay. I would say if you are a beginner to TC racing, you might do the VTA class. It is a bit slower and more forgiving to race than USGT. The X4 would be good in either class, it seems to have a lot of traction.

@FullSendRC804 thanks! Do you know what is the best body to run for VTA?

@@mhrcracing I won Nats with this body from Mccalister. mcallisterracing.com/1970-firebird-vta-295/

I am running Gravity RC G-spec type C carpet tires with GT wheels.

Yes, it will work with the stock plastic P23-R

@@FullSendRC804 Ok thank you much e for the kind reply

yes, it will. The car seems easier to drive and lap times seem to say that it's faster. We are now testing on asphalt. This tool should be released in early October if all the testing goes well.

@@FullSendRC804 thanks , got to try it

You are 100% correct on drilling the holes out would change the pack too. I just thought that having the outer most part of the rotor modified, it would react differently than the holes that are not moving through as much oil. I know of a few guys that are drilling the holes now. I don't think that they have really come to any conclusions yet.

That's what I was thinking, but I didn't want to get any thread locker in the bearing. I was thinking of using Green. What did you use?

I will check with Bill over at BS Works and see if he wants to share that yet.

BS Works is not willing to share that information. Sorry. The tool will be available late summer/early fall.

@@FullSendRC804 all good! thanks for checking

The only problem that I have heard of with the rotors were that the 2 piece rotors were having issues and so Awesomatix came out with the new one piece version. This mod that we are doing is just a tuning option, it's not to fix any actual product defect.

@@FullSendRC804 Thanks

Hey, thanks for the question. So, it changes the "pack" characteristics. Even with thicker oil, the damper feels a good bit softer than it did before the mod. On track, the car reacted quicker and it had more chassis roll/grip. So, in a traditional shock, it's like putting a larger hole piston with thicker oil to change the "pack" of the shock. For myself and Bill from BS Works, it did produce faster lap times on a layout that had been down at our local track for months.

Yes it will. I had to sand a bit of material off the graphite part to allow my battery to slide by it better. I haven't run the car with them in it but I do like the way they work. A battery with a smaller case might fit without any sanding.

RC Maker makes a really nice carbon fiber version of it. You might be able to find that one closer to where you live.

Yes, some of the guys that are running mod are doing the esc swap. This mount also adds more torsional flex to the chassis. I am very interested in that aspect of the mount. I hope to do some testing later this week.

@@FullSendRC804 Hi EJ. Did you have a chance to test this, and if so, did you feel any difference to the feeling? Thanks

@@srenboyholst3949 I have not been able to get to my local track for testing. They have had some off-road and oval trophy races.

Yeah, not sure what went wrong. It was all in frame in editing...

No, the mounting holes are not the same down the center of the chassis.

@@FullSendRC804 was telling my self the same thing, thanks, have a good one

It has a bit more body roll than the Wolverine. It's a bridge between the Twister and the Wolverine.

What do you as a discharger?

@@timothypence1195 I use an Icharger 406 duo as a discharger

Good question! No, not really any video on that because there really isn't one setting that will work. It all depends on the ride height of what your car is and how high you mounted your body. It's more of a tool to be able to duplicate a body that you know doesn't rub already and get it lower. Good idea for a video on this, thanks!

Thanks for the question. Well, it does flex more than the stock alum. chassis for sure. I am not sure if it flexes more or less than a carbon chassis. If it were me, I would still use the carbon for asphalt. With that being, I would at lest try it myself on asphalt just to see how it feels versus the carbon.

I left it as it was stock.

liquid chrome paint pen from molotow. 1mm tip

Correct, it changes our track width too, and also effects the up travel settings.

It is the Traxxas Fluorescent Green backed with white. Traxxas part number is 5062

@@FullSendRC804 really thx man

@@ceymwa You're welcome

Thanks!

Well, it's way better to mount for sure than version 1. It's not so paper thin. As far as not cracking with a crash......we will see!

Yes, it does make a difference if you are running stock vs. mod. The main reason is the way a mod car needs to transfer weight front to back more to get the car to turn into the corner after hard breaking. The Wolverine is a great body, I still have a couple I take with me at all times. I will have .4 and a .5 think with me as the heavier one will give you more body roll.

The OG is always good to have on hand!

They are the same as the stock Xray servo saver. The top hole is 19mm and the bottom is 16.5

The Sagami horn uses the springs and mounting hardware from the Xray servo saver.

@@FullSendRC804 In Europe we do not use servo safers because it is said that they make the steering indirect and wobbly. Do you have to change the spring, which was probably designed to be very hard, often?

@@TheJPower88 I know that a lot of the drivers in Europe don't use savers because of the type of track barriers used. In Europe, a lot of the tracks use curbs where as here in the U.S. we use hard boards. Our servos last longer if we use the savers. I might replace the springs every 6 months. I don't find that the saver feels indirect at all.

It's not a screwdriver, it is a small pointed pick tool. My plates slide pretty easy so it doesn't do any damage to them. I take very fine sandpaper like 1000 to 1500 grit and smooth the edges until they move easier.

@@FullSendRC804 thanks!

@@FullSendRC804 BTW do you use the pick under the plate or in the oil hole?

@@nunocarrico I use the pick in the hole. My plate moves easy enough that I don't really worry about damaging the plate or the hole.

I usually run between 2 short and 3 short(negative) The closer to 0 or positive you are, the more stable the car will be. More short the more aggressive the steering will be, good for tracks with good grip.

I usually run 2 short or 3 short(negative) caster. This makes the car more reactive when you run negative caster. Zero to positive caster gets the car off the nose and is easier to drive.

If you have negative caster, the wheelbase is shorter and if you have positive caster, you have a longer wheelbase.

Hub pointing into car gives more steering but looser rear, more towards centre gives grip, pointing to the back of the car makes car super safe so for ultra low grip

@@superstock9261 100%

Yes, getting into onroad can be hard. I am trying to give a little info to those guys that don't have good help at their local tracks. Thanks for your support!

Thanks bro!

Sure, what you got?

@FullSendRC804 I just purchased a send hand xray T4 and I'm trying to get everything sorted. It's my very fifst 1/10 scale touring car. I got a Zerun G4 21.5T and a Zerun XR10 Stock. This setup will not work with sensor cable connected. I've tried severing motor direction in the app and still. It does this weird kind of logging jumping motion when I try to give it throttle. This is with no load on the motor. I know I'm asking alot but is there any way I could contact You to send You a video showing what's happening?

@@raindeergames6104 Are the ESC and Motor new or used? It sounds like it might be cogging. If so, you should send it back to Hobbywing for them to check out. You might make sure the sensor cable is plugged in all the way.

It gave me more mid to exit steering.

Yes, I enjoyed your video but I think it would have made it even better is if you would explain what those changes actually did

@@jerryfreckleton3858 what video?