I started this channel to add videos on various topics. Mostly how to videos on things from auto repair to wood working to just about anything. I'm a DIY guy and have used the internet and youtube to learn about many things and just want to share and give back.
I have a faulty fuel line connector on fuel filter (o-ring broken). I cut out the connector from the nylon fuel tube and now have to to install another one. The problem is that I have to install connector on a fuel line which is already installed on a car (I cannot remove the whole fuel line). I planned to heat a fuel pipe with a heat blower (200 degC) and then put the connector on a pipe with hands because I do not have enough space to use any tool (fuel pipe is to short). Do you have any kind of suggestion and is it dangerous to manipulate with heath blower at 200 degC in close proximity of fuel tank.
DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN NEAR A FUEL SOURCE. The electric heat gun, or hair dryer, makes sparks which will easily ignite flammable fuel vapors. If you need to heat the Nylon Tubing to soften it, simply soak the line in hot water.
It won't refill because the suction filter in the tank is plugged. Drain the fluid, take the line off, going to the pump and blow it out, or poke a whole in it.
Does that quick connect fit on a spectra fg05n sending unit 1987 c10 fuel injection?? I’m using a compression fitting to an-6. But rather use this if it works.
I've used it on 4 vehicles so far. It's more then paid for itself. If it's a one time thing for your own vehicle then yes buy a new line. They even make short lines with new ends you can splice on. But in my case it made more sense to buy the kit to have for multiple repairs. Also this repair takes 5 minutes where replacing a whole line would take a lot longer. So no, I didnt get screwed.
Where you vac out is actually a a fill line. When it’s full it will run or the spigot on the side of it. Should never have to vacuum it out. You need a small scoop to clean sludge out of the front 2 bolt’s open smaller one first to let fluid out the open big bolt to scoop sludge out. Fill depending on how much you use it maybe once every 6 months. That’s how it’s done at safety clean
I just picked up system one model 500. I'm currently cleaning up and have taken all the way up part. Mine does not have that large hole in the front clean it out (I wish it did). My recycle tank is clogged up, I tried to flush it and it didn't work. Today I cut open the recycle tank and filled a 5 gallon bucket full of solid material from the tank...
Scott, thank you for the excellent video! I took the challenge, and made my own with a few twists - but basically built with your inspiration. Here is my video if you are interested: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H9f63IsvT_w.html
What if you don't have the original O-ring ? You measure the inside of the groove and then ? If you don't know the width how do you know ? What material is best for pneumatic nail guns . I went on McMaster-Carr and can't find that explanation of o-rings and uses . Can you help me out to rebuild a Basso BAT-50 16 gauge straight nailer that needs rings . It's probably from 1983 . They look like BEA guns
I looked into both. M12 would work good also. I went with the m18 because I didnt know how long the testing might take so wanted the bigger battery capacity. But either option will work
Genius on the the remote and relays! Do you have a flasher in your setup so that the turn signals flash? Also, I think you can wire in the flat plug wires with a receptacle poking through the box and be able to test both flat plug setups and 7pin setups.
I thought about adding a flasher but didn't see the value in that. If the lights come on when I activate and send power to them for the L and R turn signals I know the lights work. No real need to make them flash to test them. I also thought about adding a 4 pin plug to test those trailers but instead I just use an adapter I already had that goes from 7 to 4.
@@Scottthesigncrafter I just got my kit today. It worked well. The only complaint is the squeeze gun is kinda junk and they don't give you very many of the connectors that you would typically use and a bunch of the ones that you wouldn't typically use.
Sorry I was trying to be thorough in the details so pretty much anybody would be able to build one of these to benefit them testing trailers. Thanks for watching.
Can we have an update on the parts washer I just picked up this exact same model it only works as a parts washer the recycling process in not functional it comes back dirty I’m going to do this exact same cleaning process on mine I’d like to see the top removed or and inside functional break down you are so more ahead than I am on this I appreciate these educational videos
I do not have any videos with the top off. But it's fairly simple to take the top off. Take the back off by removing the screws. To take the top off you will need to remove the screws and also the fittings for the plumbing. To remove the pump assembly I had to cut the wires and then splice them when I put it back together. When I did this I didn't have high hopes of it getting back in working order so I didn't film it. Start by taking the big plug out on the front, the one with the two small holes in it. I used a big channel locks. That is the tank that the dirty solvent drains into and where it is heated up to vaporize it and send "distilled" cleaner back to the holding tank. This has to be clean to heat up the fluid, mine was filled with sludge I had to clean out. Does the silver plug on the front of yours heat up when you run a cleaning cycle?
Scott, I'm having trouble finding the manual online that you downloaded. Can you please post a link or directions where I can locate the file? Thanks again
Could have used 3 18650 batteries which cost much less and elimates the converter, adapter, and expensive cordless battery. There are other cases that would be less expensive.
There are lots of ways to put one of these together, this is just how I chose to do it. I happen to have a bunch of m18 batteries already so my battery was "free". And if it dies I have plenty of backups so don't have to wait for 18650s to charge in the middle of a job. No need to buy any 18650 or other batteries when most guys already have a cordless battery platform in their shop. You would also need to put together a charger for the 18650 batteries, I already have chargers for my m18 batteries. As for the case, this one was just easy and available so I went with it. It's also weatherproof so working outside in the rain or snow isn't an issue.
I've used it on a 32' gooseneck trailer before with the box up front and remote about 10' behind the trailer to see the lights. So I've successfully used it at about 45'. This is with my antenna sealed inside the case. I'm sure you could get better range if needed if you drilled a hole and stuck the antenna outside the case.
Nice Job, I was looking at building one of these that had the switches but this made so much more sense. Thanks for the idea, and steps, keep the awesome ideas coming.
Thank you and glad you like it. I was going to build one with the switches like you but decided to take it one step further and go with a remote setup. The remote and the cordless battery for power source make it so much more functional. Thanks and please post pictures of yours when you get it done!
This thing has been a great help with testing trailers. I love it. Post up what you end up making, would love to see what others come up with. Don't forget a bout the 12V power socket I added later but not shown in the video. Lets you hook up a power probe which was a big help in testing.
I believe there is two heating elements. When I unscrew the larger cap on the front, the one with two holes in for a spanner wrench. you can see what appears to be a heating element on each side of the hole. When it is recycling, after a while you can carefully touch the front cap and feel it is really hot. As in burn your hand hot.
No, It has one that heats the bars in the distillation tank... clean out the sludge with an 18 inch piece of 1/4 inch flat metal stock about an inch wide, as best you can, put a little bend at the tip so you can scrape better. The rods may just be caked with sludge.. scrape out the tank as best you can.. wipe the threads of the opening really good so the cap screws on.. make sure you dont cross thread...
Scott, Your 3 videos on this machine have been very helpful. I’m a volunteer in the restoration department of the San Diego Air and Space Museum. We have a rented unit just like yours. It hasn’t worked for months and getting a tech to come out has been a problem. My next step will now be to download the manual like you did. Great info Sir
